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Thread: My E+ review

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBentley57 View Post
    Not to nitpick, but that is completely, utterly, the wrong equation to use for such a situation. e=mc^2 tells you the equivalent energy contained in an amount of mass.

    If anything, you should be looking at the kinetic energy of the rider + bike system, E=0.5mv^2.
    You're right probably. So, erm, thanks, I guess. Thanks for blowing me up. No, really. Nice job there. I'll just crawl back to the Commuting forum where there aren't any physics majors lurking about with hatchets to bury... in your back. Utterly the wrong equation to use... ...

  2. #77
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    Regen is primarly there on ebike NOT to recupture energy, it is there to greatly reduce grinding on pads and rim
    which is so important on heavy ebike.
    On my Tidal Force regen is designed beautfully smooth and strong and front pads last for years and years, longer than on all my regular bikes.
    But don't expect so on E+ where regen is weak, jerking and simply badly software implemented.
    Simply you need to ride TF to know the difference.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leisesturm View Post
    You're right probably. So, erm, thanks, I guess. Thanks for blowing me up. No, really. Nice job there. I'll just crawl back to the Commuting forum where there aren't any physics majors lurking about with hatchets to bury... in your back. Utterly the wrong equation to use... ...
    lol, I suppose I came off rather harsh! It wasn't intended. Sorry :|

  4. #79
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    Metalman,pavers,wrandyr,
    Since all of you must have 1000 miles already on your E+.
    Did you noticed any deterioration of Nickel hub batteries?

    miro13car
    Last edited by powell; 09-30-11 at 08:25 AM.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by miro13car View Post
    Metalman, I am afraid you have less than 3000miles on yours now, do you have GPS to verify distance and speed?
    I have a Cateye on it so I think I'm reasonable close on the mileage.
    The speed on the display always shows higher than the Cateye.

    Metalman,pavers,wrandyr,
    Since all of you must have 1000 miles already on your E+.
    Did you noticed any deterioration of Nickel hub batteries?



    No the batteries seem fine. I have two on the bike and on most trips I use both. I am over 6 miles out of town so any trip I take is automatically at least 13 miles, usually more. Keep in mind that since my bike is a Big Dummy (cargo bike) and I very much use it as such any speed or range I post is affected by the bike I'm using. This thing weights about 110 pounds empty right now. I often carry my 90 pound son on it and always have packages on it.
    I recently added a set of aero bars and I really like them. I often cruise at about 22 - 23 MPH and when I tuck down on the bars the motor is doing very little, at least that's what I tell myself.
    I have about 3400 miles on it now.


  6. #81
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    My controller odometer shows 2600+ miles. I think the controllers assume 26 inch wheels, and mine is in a 29 inch wheel, so the actual miles are probably different. In terms of motor revolutions, we are comparing apples with apples.

    I only have a single LiPo battery. It seems fine. Any changes are more likely due to how I am using it more than changes in the battery as far as I can tell. My commute to work is 9 miles each way.

  7. #82
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    nice bike long tail e-bike

  8. #83
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    I have a TF M750X but no longer ride it as it kills batteries. Was on the TF google forum everyday for the several years I rode it. We concluded on that forum that the TF regen (though stronger than E+ as stated here) was too strong for the batteries and played a role in killing packs prematurely. On top of the regen it seems large non-geared hub motors also have high draw especially at lower speeds and starting up as they have no gear advantage--this high draw also contributes to killing batteries (on all non geared hub motors) Thus I have this beautiful expensive upgraded Tidalforce machine that I cannot sell due to ethics because it kills batteries--I have thousands of dollars of dead packs from several years of use. 'Deerfencer' on the TF forum still rides his 750X and solved the problem buy using three packs in parallel to reduce the stress on the batteries.
    Hopefully E+ has solved these issues.

    Metalman--You could reduce the stress on your packs by wiring them in parallel so both packs are running together as deerfencer does. this way they both absorb half the amount of regen and must produce half as much power/draw and are cycled half as much--all these things give a battery longer life. How much was the extra hub and why did you need a hub--doesn't E+ offer a 'B' pack that is not in a hub??!!?

  9. #84
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    Metalman,
    since you have 2 hub batteries now your usage is split and you can expect double life , double millage on both batteries.
    Your original hub battery is used much less now and it should last twice as long.
    So there is nobody with single hub battery on this forum?
    Metalman, I assume you made at least 1500miles on first hub right?
    Last edited by powell; 09-08-11 at 08:05 AM.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimbuzz View Post
    On top of the regen it seems large non-geared hub motors also have high draw especially at lower speeds and starting up as they have no gear advantage--this high draw also contributes to killing batteries (on all non geared hub motors)
    It seems like one could mitigate this problem by using the pedals.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by powell View Post
    if it comes how speed is measured.
    Controller don`t "assume" any wheel size.
    Speed of E+ is calculated by software based on inputs from position sensors inside motors, not like your bike computer of course, it is much more sophisticated.
    No matter how sophisticated the motor and controller are, if they aren't aware of the correct diameter of the wheel in which the motor is mounted, the vehicle speed calculation will be off. As far as I can tell, E+ does not provide for any settings for wheel diameter, at least not to the end user.

  12. #87
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    Metal Man, have you had any problems with your spokes?

  13. #88
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    I've been busy lately, but I'll try to answer some questions.
    How much was the extra hub and why did you need a hub--doesn't E+ offer a 'B' pack that is not in a hub??!!?
    I got all the parts to assemble a wheel with the battery hub and a wire harness to give me some room to work with for about $700 or so.
    E+ hasn't had the Lipo battery since I got the bike in November. This way was the next best thing available.

    since you have 2 hub batteries now your usage is split and you can expect double life , double millage on both batteries.
    Your original hub battery is used much less now and it should last twice as long.
    This would be true if I was running the same speed and rationing the batteries. As I posted earlier my shortest trips are 13 miles. One battery can do good with that at a decent speed. I usually try to get my average speed as close to 20MPH as I can. So if I do a typical 28 mile run I'm using both batteries with some to spare.

    Metal Man, have you had any problems with your spokes?
    Yes I did, this was after my solid tire experiment. I totally blame the tires for my spoke trouble.

  14. #89
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    Metalman ,s
    so it is impossible to figure out how many miles on original hub?
    Because you originally had like 1500 miles when you bought second hub, right?

    miro13car
    Last edited by powell; 09-30-11 at 08:24 AM.

  15. #90
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    I could probably figure out how many miles I had on the original when I bought the second. I don't know off hand how many it was, it's probably in this thread somewhere. I don't use the two evenly. I can only have one plugged in to the bike at a time and I will more or less keep using and recharging the one that's plugged in and switch only when it's dead. I may be on the other for a while or not long at all depending on how I use it.

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrandyr View Post
    It seems like one could mitigate this problem by using the pedals.
    Kinda, maybe in theory but not really. I always pedal and packs died.

  17. #92
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    Hi, new to the forum. I'm thinking of buying an E+ but don't see that they sell lithium batteries (looked everywhere on their site), but you guys have mentioned them. Is this something I could request with my purchase?

  18. #93
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    Since my original posting, my lithium battery has gone bad. It's currently in the shop and being looked at.

    As I understand it, they may not be selling additional lithium batteries right now due to a supplier issue. As it was explained to me, the cells are made by a company that was affected by the Japanese earthquake.

    In the meantime, my nickel hub battery has worked flawlessly in the 1 year that I've owned it. I do miss the extra battery and freedom it gave me to go further and faster.

  19. #94
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    pavers,
    you said "faster" ???
    I understand your E+ rode faster on EMSfactory Lithium?
    How much faster?
    Can you give us idea how faster?
    It would be very interested to hear from you about NMH - Lithium comparison.
    You used both on your E+
    miro13car
    Last edited by powell; 09-30-11 at 08:23 AM.

  20. #95
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    I am positive that EPLUS can go faster with low resistance Lithium battery.
    I understand that EMS manufacturer is limited to NMH D-size cells in front hub bur they don't see world around them? Lithium is omnipresent.
    Radicolous times of charging of NMH pack is obvious to every technical person.
    This charging time of 5 hours makes E+ one-trip-a day-ebike.
    EMS offers to rebuild your hub pack for like $600 price, give me a break, every 3-4 yaers??????
    That is damn nonsense when you have all those Lithium choices.
    MIRO13CAR
    Last edited by powell; 10-01-11 at 10:34 AM.

  21. #96
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    And what might "all those choices" be? I'm on a number of forums--have been for years. I don't know of many or any choices. I made it clear above that I killed thousands of dollars of Lithium batteries on my TF and same happened to most other guys on the forum. Many Lithium mfgs claim all sorts of battery specs--my dead batteries were all claimed to be top notch but pooped out in less than a year. Why do you think E+ doesn't offer a lithium pack--they can't find one that can do the job. 'Deerfencer' over on the TF forum has been trying all sorts of Lithium packs that keep pooping out on him. He now has a new one that is working but again we can't tell how long it will last--AND even if it does work well and last more often than not the next batch of cells might very well not be as good as the previous--such is the current state of Lithium technology available to consumers. There is little recourse when the pack came from overseas and must be shipped back for any warranty. Ebikes are so cool and fun it seems many are unwilling to admit that current batteries suck. The only bike I know of that has a 3 yr USA warranty is Optibike.

  22. #97
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    A123 is of course number one choice.
    You Can buy A123 from Mavizen, FalvonEV, RCracing, cellman and others.
    LifeBatt can be number two, please, but once we are here = person who sells is one thing, quality of cell is another thing. So if you had the problem with person selling it does not mean cell is low quality. Keep this in mind.
    A123 15Ah or 20Ah flat cells in 1000W 40A application on ebike will last very long time - I am sure more than 10 years. Just look at the specs and you can see that no A123 cell cannot be afraid of any regen , they can be charged at 50 A current.
    Don't buy uknown Chinese-brand crap , just wastage of money especially from eBuy. Of course they claim all kind of specs., cheaters.
    Again A123 is very well researched and proofen, why to look at China brand crap?
    Please, notice - everything is made in China, but there are Western manufacturers which just move all assembly lines to China allcompolete with supervisors and managers AND there are China brand facories with , so please, don't mix here.
    A123 original 20Ah pouch/flat cell can cost $70, beacuse quality stuff cost money for a reason.
    I am starting to costruct my A123 20Ah pack for my E+ this winter.

    My HPS 36V10Ah built with grey BMI cells pack I bought from LifeBatt has NOT deteriorated even a bit since June 2008 ,
    I did discharge run of over 35km and at 9.5 Ah used still I didn't hear 3 beeps which means cell reached close to critical low voltage /I use VMS boards don't
    have LVC cut off/. When I bought and starting to use my LifeBatt pack Cateye computer on my TF read 10,5050 km , now today it shows 20,729km.
    You judge yourself.
    If you don't believe me ask Ypedal member of ES forum , he is using PSI green cells which are very close to specs and construction/identical size/ to my grey cells used in my HPS pack for very long time.
    I belive you can stillbuy them from ES member.
    MIRO13CAR
    Last edited by powell; 10-03-11 at 08:26 PM.

  23. #98
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    UPDATE.
    I conducted experiment last weekend, apparently E+ can be powered on any 36V battery as long as data cable is connected to front hub.
    You just disconnect battery leads, leave data cable connected and connect any 36V battery to the motor side of battery wires and ....vi0la E+ powers up.
    Obviously display would not show power drawn, because batteryis connected outside hub battery electronics.

    MIRO13CAR

  24. #99
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    I haven't posted on here in a while. I haven't been using the bike as much as I would like to lately either, nothing but rain here in PA. I have about 3700 miles on it now. I had an issue with what seemed to be the display, I'm on my fourth one now. They decided the problem may be in the data cable. I had my doubts about it, but they sent me a complete one and that did the trick.

  25. #100
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    Metalman,
    my display also malfanctioned after I rode in quite heavy rain, but it was heavy rain.
    It dried up and it is OK now. BUT important:
    Immediately after coming from rain I disconnected connectors from display and blew them with hair dryier and glass of display also/
    Warning - once you get water into those connectors which are identical to TF data connectors and you don't dry them immediately you get oxidation and galwanic green deposit which destroy connector.
    Yes display window is actually a real glass - very durable agaist scraches.
    Now I aways cover display/controller EVERY time there is rain in forecast with simply clear plastic small bag - very simple and effective, you simple slidebag over display and wrap with rubber bands over cables.
    I rode my E+ in rain many times since than and it work with no problems.
    MIRO13CAR

    I think water penetrates display around glass somwhere.
    Last edited by powell; 10-14-11 at 11:55 PM.

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