My experiment shows how Eplus is restrained by NMH chemistry.
One thing is certain: E+ 3-phase motor has easy life powered by NMH.
Check this document by EMS.http://mail-ems.com/E+_Electric_Battery_Tech.php
What destroyed and brought EMS to finalcial troubles was foolish decision to choose known for its viotale character LiPolimer cells in their B battery.
Powell, I'm glad you are doing the leg work on the batteries. I now have over 5800 miles on my bike. I'm still using it when I can, but right now my electric car is stealing some of my attention from the bike.
that is impressive millage the biggest I ever heard onEplus
Tell me how motor is holding up mechanically.
I mean torque arm, did you find that bolt loose sometimes?
You see Eplus is not as smooth and jerk free as TF being only 3phase design
You don't hear any noises from motor?
It all works perfectly.
dh, Umm... What? Back at ya--He explained it all quite well including details. If you are a complete newbie that's OK--just let me know and I'll break it all down for you--no problem.
I quoted everything in the preceding post 40 minutes after it had last been edited (or something like that).
The post has since been completed.
Since I cannot edit my post on Page 5
I just noticed and I do not how I wrote 19km???
I rode 25.7 km and used around 8Ah
I want to post more pics also
Your e bike looks great. I hope you offset a lot of CO2 with this machine!
There are few and between complete silent bike systems in NAmerica
Eplus is one of them
Beauty of Eplus is complete silence when you ride
Sure I leave my fossil fueled car more and more often in the garage
I now have almost 7100 miles on the Big Dummy. My use has been a little
less than last year, but my wife picked up some of the slack. See this thread http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/837536-Charging-at-work to read a little about how a PA state run hospital is concerned with their
employees health and the environment.
first thank you for yet another update on your E+.
It is very interesting to read about any ebike which reached over 11,000km and running.
Guess, how many ebike owners would come back here after their "enthuisiasic" first tens or hundrets km of rides on
below $1000 ebike and report over 11,000km millage?
NOT many if any at all.
E+ USA-built quality is obvious especially
that you installed your E+ kit on very heavy cargo bike.
I do not know if you read my thread on EndlessS how I powered my E+ on A123 20Ah cells battery?
It was experiment when I took apart hub battery , disconnected original NMH cells inside hub and connect A123 20 Ah to original NMH electronics. And it worked with bike on the stand running motor idle.
I am in process of building permanent A123 20Ah pack to mount inside frame of my E+.
Of course this pack will be monitored by NMH electronics so no error will generate and comm with motor controller will be maintained.
I am on vacation now , somebody computer, cannot provide link, but you can find it by using search for E+.
Now I am approaching 5000km on my Eplus,just 14km short of 5000km
I don't see really any signs of battery deteriorating, I ride exact distance every morning and would notice that. Battery SOC meter on E+ is very accurate and consistant,
no 3 light useless battery "indicator" on Eplus.
However I discharge only to 70-80%SOC so I usually use only 30% capacity,charge at work. My E+ battery was fully discharged only 3 times to calibrate SOC meter.
My project to convert E+ to A123 LiFePo battery continues, A123 20Ah battery is ready, complete with electronics, ABS battery enclosure molded to Biria frame will be placed low in the frame, almost matching Cof Gravity of hub battery.
My wife was on the Big Dummy today when it turned over 8,000 miles. She's been riding the 26 miles round trip for work with it a few times a week.
Your odometer reading of over 8000 miles tells a lot about durability of Eplus bikes.
I never opened motor but opened front hub battery many times and must say it is pleasure to see how well is it constructed with high quality of materials like sealed Japanese bearings, precision aluminium casts and electronics which doesn't look like amatourish rudimentary assembly seen on cheap kits.
Very well designed in USA by STG Electric Motor Design. Now I regret I didn't buy another Eplus.
Hey Guys, I just purchased the Cruiser used.. it has the 1k motor on the back.. and it looks like I got everything.. except it doesnt work... anyway I have it on the charger as I type. I have been searching everything I can about my issue.. and the only thing I found some post by the previous owner.. the bike has 24.7 miles on it.. looks like new.. pretty much.. except when I plug the charger in the E+Que display fires up and shows it charging and gives a tone.. annoying.. I tried the connecting to the front fork communications jack and that seemed to work.. but it still didnt go anywhere.. I plan on taking the front hub off tomorrow and see if I can to that reset the voltage reg thing.. I am new to ebikes.. and I thought this would be a good project.. also where would I get a new Display? the button pad on this one the glue doesnt stick anymore so it is lose. thanks in advance.
...Service to Eplus is still being provided by
Rick Ruggiero based in Virginia
just Google "Rick Ruggiero Eplus"
would you like to sell your Eplus by any chance ?
Can we talk?
My Eplus project has progressed even farther.
Read my posts here in this thread on prevoious pages about converting my Eplus from NMH hub battery to LiFePo A123 20Ah 12S battery.
Such conversion has many benefits:
--- for close to same weight A123 pack has about 2,5 times more Wattshours of energy than hub battery
--- after getting rid of front hub you can have front disc brake installed.
--- even with double sealed Japanese bearings in hub rolling resistance of Eplus front wheel is greater than quality say Shimano hub.
--- A123 pack can be charged at rapid rate of 1C /my charger is 17A charger/ and after my average 10km ride I can recharge in less than 1 hour close to 45 minutes, not 4 hours.
--- regen is available right away
I ran many tests of my Eplus powered on A123 20Ah pack with empty shell front hub /NMH cells removed/ in my neighbourhood.
Difference was dramatic. Shortly .
Eplus on NMH hub feels strong and peppy during maybe first kilometer or two when is warm.
The problem is that NMH string of 30 cells starts sagging voltage very fast, this volage sag is detected by battery electronics and processor starts to limit power right away to protect/extend life of cells .
Powered by A123 20Ah powerfull cells Eplus feels strong for many kilometers. I rode 15kms in level 8 and still my Eplus felt peppy. I saw 1300W for the first time drawn by system when bike reached 50km/h repeateadly on its own, with peddaling /very fast one/ I saw 52-54km/h.
I never saw more than 1150W drawn on my Eplus with hub battery.
All this Eplus achived on 36V system, no need for crazy voltages here. It clearly shows how efficient Eplus bike is.
I am close to finishing A123 pack, see pictures.
Conversion electrically it is quite simple, you disconnect NMH 30 cell string , connect 12S lithium in place of NMH , tap 2 times 2S cells around 6.5-7V from A123 battery into DSP board of battery electronics and now system should power up normally.
In reality it is much harder with all this hardware , possibility of shorts and incorporating those 2 battery boards into your A123 battery.
SOC meter goes out of wack of course.
As we know Eplus batt electronics count charge going to and going out of battery and display on SOC meter.
With A123 connected it is tricky how batt electronics and particularly processor PIC18 would react, I managed to lock processor with one last SOC meter bar blinking and no matter what I do it stays that way which serves my purpose very well - regen is activated, throttle is active, everthing displays normally.
So I am finishing my A123 pack and on board charger.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=286618 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=286619http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=286620
Yes, I would be interested.. but you are in Canada.. I am in Tennessee...
A bit too far from me
I want to convert another Eplus 1000W to A123 20Ah and offer it for sale but I am having second thoughts
It is about legal stuff no about anything technical
What if the owner gets into accident or crash, etc
Yes Tennesse is far but all depends how much I pay for a bike
Eplus is a wonderful system, one of the best in the world
precisely because it does NOT use China design/technology
so is very intelligent efficient completely silent and powerful just using 36V
Notice that unlike China brand kits Eplus cannot be destroyed by heat, overvolt over currant you name it
No China can do it
Magic Pie was miserable attempt to build motor with controller built in
my Eplus system converted to A123 battery is installed on BIRIA bike and running.
Battery needs finishing like sanding, priming ,painting, otherwise electrically it works perfect with orignal factory BMS boards, however of course SOC INDICATOR is out of wack and no wonder, because only discharge is metered by factory electronics, no charge is metered by facory BMS, because A123 is not charged through original BMS but outside of it.
Went to work twice 13km round trips in below zero temperatures.
A123 cells perform dramatically better than factory NMH .
In fact I cannot even imagine NMH cell battery in minus 10C.
Even in subzero temp ebike feels peppy even after 13km ridden.
Hudge improvment is charging.
It takes like 30-45min charging only after riding 13km,
NMH hub battery would require min FIVE hours complete /with balancing stage/charge time after such ride.
Simply Lithium can be charged at high rate - my charger pumps 17Amps, original NMH charger is 2Amps charger, simply put NMH cannot be charged fast if you want it to last, for A123 17A is a piece of cake - is not even 1C charge.
As you can see in picture above
front wheel has just empty shell, no wires coming out of hub.
BMS electronics moved from front hub are sitting in my A123 battery.
Anther beauty is Low, low Centre of Gravity. Result - very stable predictable ride.
I'm glad you were able to make this work. I may have to do something like this at some point. My batteries are starting to act a little funny at times. I think part of my problem is that I continually switch between the two batteries and I think since they are not aging the same it throws the computer off in reading the remaining charge.
electrically such conversion is quite simple.
Factory BMS electronics will power up , it does NOT care if it is voltage from NMH or LiFePo source.
You basically connect LiFePo where NMH is and tap 2 times 6-7V from LiFePo //to prevent error generation/ and connect to DSP board of BMS electronics.
theoretically it is simple
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