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Thread: My E+ review

  1. #201
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    here are pictures
    and schematics of my EPLUS conversionEplus NMH BMS 002.jpg
    they should be familiar to anybody who opened EPLUS NMH hub.Eplus NMH BMS 008.jpgEplus NMH BMS 005.jpg
    Last edited by powell; 01-02-14 at 10:31 PM.

  2. #202
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    Sunbury Park.jpgFirst snow of the new year. I have about 11,700 miles on this now. I love this bike!

  3. #203
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    Metalman
    I have added schematics of my EPLUS conversion.
    Seriously?
    Do you ride in winter also, have you change to winter tires?
    Last edited by powell; 01-02-14 at 10:35 PM.

  4. #204
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    Yes, I ride all year, I'm usually good to about 20 degrees F. I have studded tires.

  5. #205
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    Metalman
    I understand you have not noticed any mechanical /noises the way the motor works.
    Is this click after applying regen brake /after releasing brake lever/ still the same ? Or is it louder?
    I would pay more attention to lubricate bearings if I rode in winter.
    Bearings on EPLUS are high quality sealed Japanese ones just like on Tidal Force bikes, but I still lubricate them.
    I place EPLUS on its side ,squirt 5 droplets of Mobil 1 motor oil to the centre of motor and next I rotate wheel to allow oil to flow down.
    I do it on both sides of EPLUS.
    High quality full synhetic Mobil 1 is one of the best if not the best motor oil in the world. It not just lubricate but also seals your EPLUS hub center from moisture penetration.
    I know EPLUS motor stands out of many DD motors , because its mechanical design /example wires do not enter through axle like in your typical cheapo China brand but through individual holes in stainless steal solid centre hub/
    but still few squirts of such fully synthetic oil from both sides keeps both sides centres oily - very good.
    Last edited by powell; 01-04-14 at 01:05 PM.

  6. #206
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    Better Oil?

    I'm not positive but I wouldn't use Mobil1 for a bearing (I do use it in my car) It is engine lube and even though engines may have two main bearings these are toleranced and engineered to run in an oil bath and Mobile 1 is engineered to be a bath in a gas engine for piston rings, high temps & etc and is not designed for a dry bearing. A bearing should have a thicker grease specified for this application to stay in the bearing for the long term. If I suspected the original grease was dry or displaced I would give it squirts of Triflow teflon lube twice a year. I think the Mobile 1 will just be pushed out of the bearing races soon and leave it dry and very vulnerable. Again, Mobile 1 is an engine lube and may not be optimal for a dry bearing. Bones makes lubes for skateboard bearings that are a thicker cream meant to remain in the bearing but skateboarders and rollerbladers want speed and very low rolling resistance so they use light greases ("cream").

    I would consider taking the bearing seal off on the inside of the motor because it is clean in there and doesn't need the seal. With the seal off I could spray-clean the bearing with bearing cleaner or even WD-40 (as a cleaner NOT as a lube--it is a very light weight lube for some non-critical things) and then after it dries apply a thicker teflon grease which would last. Taking the inner seal off on the inside of the wheel has been done millions of times on skate boards and some top of the line bearings even come without a seal on one side for skateboards and rollerblades for this purpose. Campognolo and other companies make bicycle bearing lubes but these are often for racing and they get renewed regularly--not left for 11k miles.

    I agree that after 11,000 miles some lube should be added and bearings should be cleaned. One could replace them but I'd look into the price for this size as some odd sizes can be expensive and sometimes require a press to get them in and out as they must be completely seated. Good grease can substantially prolong the life of a bearing. Some greases are intended to stay in place and last long in this application. This particular bike is carrying a lot of weight but all of our ebikes have more load than a bicycle.

    It would be nice for a dry bearing engineer to chime in with info for all our ebike bearing maintenance needs.
    Last edited by nimbuzz; 01-06-14 at 05:58 AM. Reason: additions

  7. #207
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    I can see your point, especially about that oil can be thown out of bearings.
    however
    everthing depends...how often you do it and for what weather conditions.
    I want this oil to splash and lubricate also metal seals, snap rings and get it inside motor and
    I don't do it once in a season, more often than that. I squirt untill it flows out.

    Kris King /golden standard in bicycle parts - the best/ manufacturer actually recomends motor oil for lubrication for its expensive hubs in certain weather conditions.
    Check this out
    page from CHRIS KING manual.
    My comment above was about riding in winter.
    Here what KRIS KING says about lubrication of its sealed bearings built into front hub.
    They do mention Tri-flow lubricant.
    002.jpg


    Chris King manual 003.jpg


    Chris King manual 005.jpg
    Last edited by powell; 01-06-14 at 01:07 PM.

  8. #208
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    I have over 12,000 miles on this now.

  9. #209
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    Hi Powell,

    I tried to find out what was wrong with the circuit board but I had no luck. I am very appreciative of the help that you had given me last November. I know that you have a lot of knowledge about the eplus system and I wanted to offer this to you first before I try ebay. I am looking to sell my motor, controller, and brake handels. I was wondering if you or know someone that would be interested in these items. Let me know and thanks again for your help!

    Steve
    Last edited by Sfli3; 04-13-14 at 05:11 PM.

  10. #210
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    Steve
    I cannot remember , can you refresh my memory...
    You opened front hub , right
    What I was helping you with?

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sfli3 View Post
    Hi Powell,
    I tried reconnecting the battery as you had mentioned but I didn't have any luck. I suppose the first thing to do is to see how much Rick would be selling one. Maybe he has just the circuit board. Another option would be to buy a controller and use the motor. Have you heard of anyone attempting this? I tried to take apart the motor to see if this would be a viable option but I cannot get the cover off. I know that there is a snap ring but it seems like I might need a puller to take the cover off. I didn't try a puller yet because I didn't want to damage anything. The other thing that I'm concerned about it how to bypass the eplus controller electronics. On a good note, the batteries have been holding a charge of 37.5 and it has been almost 2 weeks since I have charged them. I would say that this is another sign of a bad circuit board.
    Yes. Here was our last converstation

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sfli3 View Post
    Hi Powell,

    I was wondering if you or know someone that would be interested in these items. Let me know and thanks again for your help!

    Steve
    If Powell doesn't want anything, I would be interested in at least the wiring harness, particularly the brake/throttle part.

  13. #213
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    Steve,

    Now that I think of it, the reason I am looking for the brake/throttle harness is that the display does not come one. I have 2 E+ systems, so I am able to swap parts around. I discovered that the problem existed for both battery/motor sets when I used one brake/throttle harness, and did not happen on either when I used the other harness. I have not yet figured out what is different about the bad harness.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrandyr View Post
    Steve,

    Now that I think of it, the reason I am looking for the brake/throttle harness is that the display does not come one. I have 2 E+ systems, so I am able to swap parts around. I discovered that the problem existed for both battery/motor sets when I used one brake/throttle harness, and did not happen on either when I used the other harness. I have not yet figured out what is different about the bad harness.
    No problem wrandyr. I will probably wait a couple weeks before I put the items on ebay. I was going to give Powell first crack at them and then anybody else on this forum. I know that the eplus parts are hard to find and I wanted to give anybody that was following this forum a chance to replace parts. The controller, brake handle, and motor all worked fine until the circuit board from the battery hub went bad and the bike had less than 60 miles on it. The tires and rims look brand new so I know the previous owner was telling the truth about the mileage.

  15. #215
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    Steve
    sorry for getting to you back late.
    So as you said when you bought this Eplus it all functioned good.
    You did not have Eplus charger, you opened battery hub and hooked up third party charger.
    It is easy to make short and damage battery electronics if not careful.
    For sure battery electronics are gone. As I wrote before to repair such a board with no schematics would be very difficult stuff.
    As we know only one specific display/controller will work with given Eplus motor, they have specific ID.
    On other hand every Eplus battery hub will work with any Eplus. Means any Eplus battery electronics can be replaced.
    However PIC chip on battery electronics is loaded with software, so if PIC chip is dead chances are zero to repair.
    I know Eplus system to some degree only.
    To me any Eplus battery hub is needed to connect to the rest of your Eplus to make sure that all works fine.
    I am not interested unless I get all your kit for really cheap.
    Chances of finding buyer for non-functioning ebike kit on eBay are next to zero.
    From last conversation with Rick Ruggiero which still sell Eplus parts he would be willing to sell used hub for $800, new for $1000. For sure he will not sell any electronics boards , he for sure does not repair any Eplus electronics, however he has
    computer interface to program Eplus and run diagnotics.
    Last edited by powell; 04-17-14 at 05:38 AM.

  16. #216
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    Hi Powell

    Here is my email. Sfli321@gmail.com. It would be better to communicate in private. I have to have over 50 posts in order to talk in private on this forum. Im not looking for a lot of money for this system so it will probably be worth your while. Send me an email and I can send you pictures if you want them. I also have the tire off of the front hub that I will through in too
    Thanks!

  17. #217
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    If Powell isn't interested, I may be.

  18. #218
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    Steve,
    On the second thought.
    I am NOT interested in buying.

  19. #219
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    Hi Metal man,
    If your interested, send me an email. Sfli321@gmail.com
    Thanks!!

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