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Old 01-15-12, 03:18 AM   #26
Sangesf
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How about showing us a pic of your bike and all the hardware you currently have?
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Old 01-15-12, 01:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apache Thunder View Post
As for what freewheel to use, I found a 16tooth left hand freewheel. But does using a right handed freewheel work on the left side? With normal multispeed freewheels, there is only threading half the way into the freewheel and only on one side. So it would have to be flipped over to be put on the left. This would mean it would spin in the wrong direction.

But most BMX freewheels including a few I already have (I have an 18tooth freewheel currently installed and a 16tooth freewheel that came with the kit) have no obstructions on them that would prevent them from being screwed on the opposite side without being flipped and thus would freewheel in the correct direction.

Bolts can be flipped over and still be screwed on. So I think the same can be said for freewheels since they screw on in a manner similar to bolts. I could just use one of my right handed freewheels. Since they have no flanges or obstructions on either side, they can be screwed on from the opposite face of the freewheel then normal and it would not have to be flipped over to screw onto the hub.
couple things. 1 you already said this earlier in your thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apache Thunder View Post
Flip Flop hubs won't work. The threading on the left side is right handed and the freewheel/fixed gear would unscrew off the hub if power was applied to it on the left side. Flip Flops were meant to be "flipped" when a user wants to use the other gear. Each side was intended to be used on the right side and both can't be used at the same time. Thanks though.
2 threading on a freewheel onto the left side of a flip flop the way you describe above (assuming you could) would not allow you to use a freewheel tool to tighten it, b/c the tool notches would be on the inside of the freewheel, and thus inaccessible.

Post up some pictures of your bike!

Last edited by C.P.; 01-15-12 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 01-15-12, 01:35 PM   #28
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Here's two pictures. They are a bit outdated now. I have a headlight on front and a battery meter installed in the battery box and a ratchet cable instead of bungee cable holding the box to the frame. Also, the multi-speed freewheel shown has been removed and replaced by a 18tooth single speed. It doesn't have alignment issues anymore or if it does, it's not enough to cause excess noise with the chain. The chain hasn't derailed or broken in the past 2-3 weeks, so it looks like it will hold up now. The single speed freewheel definitely freed things up a bit.

The bike will currently go about 20 miles an hour. (22-23miles in hour if I use a 16tooth freewheel) So given that I only paid about $140 for the entire kit minus the batteries/battery box. I thought it was a pretty good deal.

Couldn't find anything near that price range that I could afford and would have the power I need. It's a 36v system by the way. Gotten from eBay by the way. Sure a few risks associated from that, but the parts I got seem to hold up well for me so I did manage to find a good seller. (except for the freewheel extender thing that came with the kit. That was the only piece that seemed below par quality wise)

I thought about finding a way to put the batteries within the frame for a lower center of gravity, but right now that's where my bike lock is mounted. I have no planes on changing it now since the bike rides fine for me as is and lithium batteries will soon replace the SLA batteries. Box is larger then the batteries by a good 3-4 inches on each side and 4-5 inches from the top. So it's a bit larger then it needs to be, but I didn't have a whole lot to chose from in terms of battery boxes so it was either this one or a smaller one that might have been too small. (note that the speed controller is also inside the battery box) I designed it like that to be a bit more weather proof. I've ridden it in wet weather without issue thus far.

I have a second ratchet cable tying down the batteries inside the box. So rest assured, nothing is moving around in there.

(click to enlarge)




It ain't pretty and some here already said it may be tough to ride but I've had no problems with it. (especially now that I got a double leg kickstand installed). It may ride a bit like a tank, but I don't mind that at all. I've used it like this for the past month and had no issues other then the chain alignment which seems to be solved now.

I never had to use a freewheel tool to "tighten" a freewheel. Simply pedaling it (or in this case having the motor drive it) would act to tighten it. Perhaps your confusing the freewheels with cassettes. They attach to the hub differently and do require tightening with a tool I believe and I've never heard of a single speed bmx bike using a cassette. Only multi-speeds seem to have those.

The couple freewheels I do have, don't even have notches for a freewheel tool. A tool is only needed for removing them. Since the rim and freewheels I do have were cheap, I don't fathom why I would bother trying to remove them.

Last edited by Apache Thunder; 01-15-12 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 01-15-12, 06:54 PM   #29
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Yours looks like mine did in the beginning...
I opted for a "lockable file folder box" from Office Depot/Staples as it looks better and weighs less..
Albeit at $50 a pop, probably too expensive for you.
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Old 01-15-12, 07:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apache Thunder View Post
I never had to use a freewheel tool to "tighten" a freewheel. Simply pedaling it (or in this case having the motor drive it) would act to tighten it.
Yup, in full agreement if were talking about the right hand side with a right hand freewheel. I was trying to help you see the problem with what you described in post #25 where you described moving a right hand freewheel with threading all the way through over to the left hand side of a hub without flipping it (right hand threads)...in order to make this work on the left hand side, you'd have to tighten this with a tool, which you could not use, b/c the tool notches would be inaccessible. Anyways, the next problem would be keeping the freewheel in place once it's back on the left hand side. You might have luck locking it down "suicide hub" style, by finding an old british threaded bottom bracket lockring and threading it on there to keep it from unthreading when installed back on the left hand side...follow?

Last edited by C.P.; 01-15-12 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 01-16-12, 03:37 AM   #31
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The main fact would be that I still won't need a tool to tighten it on the left side. Because if I did, it's not a true left side threading and once tightened it would become unscrewed by the motor driving force onto the freewheel. The hub I'm getting has reversed threading in respect to the threading on the right side. So when I screw on the freewheel on the left side of the wheel I will still would not need a tool to do that as screwing it on should occur in the same direction that the motor would spin the freewheel under power. If it does not tighten in that direction, then the threading is incorrect and the freewheel will unscrew off the hub when I use the motor.

As I said the hub I'm getting has the threading on the left side reversed so that a freewheel can be screwed on in the opposite direction. Since it's on the left side of the wheel, screwing it on would occur in the same direction that the motor would spin the freewheel to power the wheel.

Some models of Currie eBikes have such hubs.

Here's a picture of the hub I'm getting: (I will be buying without a freewheel since I already have one)

(click to enlarge)



Looking closely at the picture I can tell the threading on the left side moves towards the hub. This would mean that the left side freewheel will tighten when under power which is what I want it to do. I should be able to use a normal free wheel on this side just as I would on the right side.

Last edited by Apache Thunder; 01-16-12 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 01-16-12, 11:39 AM   #32
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Apache dude. I get it, refer to my post #23. Just dont forget to pickup up a southpaw freewheel.

Good luck with your bike, it sounds like you had it all figured out to begin with.
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Old 01-16-12, 12:24 PM   #33
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Apache, great, but one thing:

On a freewheel there are 2 different thing to look for (and one is critical):
the rotation it is meant to go
and the threading (a RIGHT thread will ALWAYS be a RIGHT thread, no matter what side you screw it in!!! )

The rotation can be revered by flipping it, but the threads remain right threaded even if you flip it!

If you want to make it the proper way with no risks, you need a left thread freewheel, that will more likely have the natural rotation direction reversed also, with a left threaded hub on the left side.

As I and others said before: a flipped freewheel will make you use "suicide flip-flop hubs"

To be honest, another idea is to weld (or something) a one-way coupler on the motor shaft, and put a flip-flop hub with a fixie gear on the left side.
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Old 08-07-14, 08:45 AM   #34
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I know this is an old thread, but did you ever finish your project?

Any photos?

Looks like this guy did it:
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Old 08-07-14, 01:21 PM   #35
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I found this site:
Eric Peltzer's Electric Bicycle

He attaches the left sided sprocket to the spokes (sounds like a bad idea but a lot of bike motors using gasoline do this without a problem) and mentioned it is probably best to look for a motor that freewheels instead of the sprocket attached to the bike wheel as ones going the direction you need are hard to come by.

Still wondering what the guy in the video above did as it is clearly a freewheel.

Hopes this helps anyone who comes across this thread.
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Old 08-10-14, 02:03 AM   #36
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Cool

$14.99 w/free shipping


Before purchasing, I emailed to confirm left and right thread. (- recommended procedure!)
Seller confirmed L\R but sent R\R.
Emailed seller about wrong item and received proper L\R at no further cost.



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File Type: jpg L-Rhub.jpg (72.2 KB, 43 views)

Last edited by DrkAngel; 08-10-14 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 08-13-14, 04:28 AM   #37
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Lightbulb < $20 eZip hub replacement

eZip rear hub replacement $19.99 shipped



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File Type: jpg L-R eZip hub.jpg (58.4 KB, 60 views)

Last edited by DrkAngel; 08-13-14 at 04:35 AM.
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Old 09-01-14, 08:25 AM   #38
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Talking

DrkAngel, awesome find!!!

You the man! Looks like all someone needs to find now is a large, single sprocket freewheel and it'll be just like the video. Update: According to the electricbike.com article, the left side does freewheel. See the electricbike.com article below for options (like upgrading the gears, freewheel, and changing the number of teeth) on this situation.

I came across this ebike for super cheap that uses an external motor (that hub is actually the replacement for this bike). Check it out:


450-watt motor. Not bad for the price.

You can get more info here.

Not sure if the sprocket on the hub freewheels or if the motor freewheels (might explain why they put the motor so close to the hub so you aren't having to move a big chain when you aren't using the motor). Even if you the sprocket on the hub doesn't freewheel I'm sure you can just find on the internet.

Anyway, the only thing he complains about is all the weight being in the back. But you can solve this by moving the motor and battery to the middle of the frame. Also, the battery is lead acid so if you upgrade to lithium you can save some weight there.

Here is the Amazon link (this one has the stronger diamond frame instead of the step-through) for around $700-$800:
Currie Technologies Men's eZip Eco-Ride-2 SLA Electric Bicycle

I removed the link above. For the same price you get the new 2014 Lithium Battery version at Walmart:
eZip Trailz Unisex Commuter Diamond Frame Electric Bike

The motor is also much quieter than previous models.

This article (eZip Trailz E-bike is now only $750 with a lithium battery | ELECTRICBIKE.COM) goes into great detail reviewing the bike, giving DIY upgrade instructions, and even telling you where to get left threaded freewheels.

Last edited by metomeya; 09-08-14 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 09-01-14, 10:04 AM   #39
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Quote:
I was thinking about using a internally geared hub.
Rohloff 4 bolt disc brake mount is a 4 bolt MTB Chain ring pattern, the hub is used for mid drives on full suspension Mountain bikes .

with the final drive on the left side, so unsprung weight on the rear suspension is minimal.

there are LH thread single speed freewheels.. to go on the hub, in the wheel.

Last edited by fietsbob; 09-01-14 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 09-12-14, 02:35 PM   #40
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I know I've been hijacking this thread, but I wanted to leave one last post about making ebikes.

For those of you who are interesting in making an ebike with an external motor, you might want to try this simpler and MUCH cheaper design.

The tin foil shield...

You can read more about the bike here.

Friction drives do surprisingly well.

And you can read more about this type of setup here.

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