Connectors / Battery problem
I am working on a bike kit project I put together myself. So far things have going okay, but the 36V 10AH Headway LiFePO4 Battery 38120 E Bike Battery Pack has a different output connector. Itís a 4 Pin male Cannon plug, the 1,2 pins are neg. ,the 3,4, are plus. I do have the female connector but it is not wire on the system. My question is what kind of clamps (or solder) do I need for the two bare wires hanging from the harness, and does that mean all have to do is find the right wire (+or-) to put to the 1,2, and the other to the 3,4. I had seen pictures online with similar products with only two going in the female connector. But no diagrams to actually see how itís wired up. Can anyone advise on this
I have a Headway pack with the BMS from bmsbattery.com. It has four leads - two are negative, and two are positive. Both negatives are connected to P minus of the BMS (there are two spots marked P (Pack) Minus on the BMS). Both positives are connected to the pack positive terminal on the positive terminal of the cell they are connected to. This means each pair is functionally identical, and one pair of plus/minus can be left wired to the controller, and one pair can be left wired together for charging, with a pair of Anderson connectors. Or conversely, you can charge through either plus/minus pair. I have two pairs of Andersons, one on each plus/minus pair, and can use either pair for discharge or charge. Two wires go to from the B minus to the negative cell terminus, doubled for current handling.
I prefer Anderson connectors for the convenience of wiring them. I solder them - it is easier than crimping them.
This might be the setup of your wires too, but you will need to trace them back to where they are connected, on the BMS to know for sure
. If you have a different BMS than the one here...
....you can't necessarily treat each pair the same, and maybe can only charge through one of the pairs, depending on the particular BMS (if it has a C minus port on it, one negative lead will go to C minus and will part of the charging pair of plus/minus).
Last edited by chvid; 02-13-12 at 10:25 PM.
Connectors to battery problem
Thanks for the information, but Iím not sure if that is what I need. I am sort of a novice with dc wiring. When I was putting this project together I was hoping to do more plug and go than wire and solder. The Headway 36v 10ah pack I bought is a is in a case . No bare wires, just a 4 Pin male Cannon plug on the bottom of the case to plug into the wiring harness to the controller and a side access for Coaxial Plug for charging. Now from the controller it connect to a standard looking cord with a 3 prong female plug. From there it plug into a male 3 prong plug with 2 wires (+, -) no ground. I am guessing this is setup for a battery with no case; I donít really want to get into the case because that might void my warranty. This is where I come to the 4 pins female Cannon plug that was sent (by bmsbattery.com) with no wires. So Iím just trying to figure out how to connect the 4 pins female Cannon connector. I know the Discharge connector: 1, 2 +; 3, 4- is set this way. This is where I am at, here is the reference # 38120_10ah 36V10Ah LiFePO4 Battery 38120 Battery Pack with Carrier from bmsbatery.com. It has pictures perhaps that will help. Connector/Adaptor: 4 pin female Cannon plug for DIY. on batteryspace.com shows the female connector.
Hi...my apologies, but my instructions were for the raw connections of a "do-it-yourself" Headway pack, using the bmsbattery bms, so they don't seem to apply to your situation with the various prebuilt connector ports etc. on your case. I better not advise you further, because I've not used such a setup myself. It sounds more complicated than it needs to be. Usually a controller has two positives which go to the positive discharge wire. (one of them is for an inline on-off switch, if used). And one negative which goes to the negative discharge wire. The discharge wire should only have two "active" pins - one negative one positive. I'd be tempted to replace that connection with Anderson connectors. The two controller positive wires are soldered into one Anderson connector (for "always on" setup/no on/off switch).
It sounds like you have a lot of unused pins in the connectors you have.