please help. no motor power from controller but motor work direct to battery
10-04-12, 12:57 PM
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please help. no motor power from controller but motor work direct to battery
Can anyone HELP PLEASE I have a bike/scooter that I can't troubleshoot.
Replaced controller $20 and twisht throttle $15 and $15 charger and bike $50 invested
Spec 36v 500w
The motor works when connected directly to battery but not from either controller. Small spark in connector when battery pluged in to controller read that normal because compacitots are charging. Big spark in connector when battery pluged directly to motor.
The controllers:
New:
From battery. 40v
Indicator port. 40v
charging port 40v
Switch lock port 40v key off cuts all other power 0v when on. But other ports powered same on both controllers
Brake port 0v
Blake light port 39.6v depressed brake 40v
Motor port 0v
Throttle port. Red black blue. Red to black 4.8v
red to blue 4.8
blue black 0v
Throttle when hooked up
Black to blue source volt very between 0.8v to full 3.6v
Old. Controler
From battery 40v
Indicator port 40v
Charging port 0v
Brake port. 4.8 depressed 0v
Haze two brake ports no brake light port
Motor port 0v
Throttle port red black blue
Red to black 4.3
Red blue 4.3
Black blue 0v
Twist grip verys 0.8v to full 3.5v
Battery test
All 40v
Each read 13.4
Brake does not have continuity but w depressed it do
I'm so lost please insites help
Replaced controller $20 and twisht throttle $15 and $15 charger and bike $50 invested
Spec 36v 500w
The motor works when connected directly to battery but not from either controller. Small spark in connector when battery pluged in to controller read that normal because compacitots are charging. Big spark in connector when battery pluged directly to motor.
The controllers:
New:
From battery. 40v
Indicator port. 40v
charging port 40v
Switch lock port 40v key off cuts all other power 0v when on. But other ports powered same on both controllers
Brake port 0v
Blake light port 39.6v depressed brake 40v
Motor port 0v
Throttle port. Red black blue. Red to black 4.8v
red to blue 4.8
blue black 0v
Throttle when hooked up
Black to blue source volt very between 0.8v to full 3.6v
Old. Controler
From battery 40v
Indicator port 40v
Charging port 0v
Brake port. 4.8 depressed 0v
Haze two brake ports no brake light port
Motor port 0v
Throttle port red black blue
Red to black 4.3
Red blue 4.3
Black blue 0v
Twist grip verys 0.8v to full 3.5v
Battery test
All 40v
Each read 13.4
Brake does not have continuity but w depressed it do
I'm so lost please insites help
Last edited by clayclayjr; 10-04-12 at 08:14 PM.
10-04-12, 03:17 PM
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Does not work with old one either. U see first I thought it was the twist grip because I was getting no voltage change so I took it apait and found the grip had a burnt spot on the hall chip. So I ordered a new one installed and nothing so I figured maybe the controller ordered a new one. And still not getting any power out the motor wires. Like I said the motor runs when I plug intro battery's. I tested the throttle again and it does vary voltage
Last edited by clayclayjr; 10-04-12 at 08:21 PM.
10-05-12, 01:50 AM
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What bike is this on, make and modle, also is the controller from the same company.
See controller use voltage from Throttle by use the 5k resistor called a POT. The less oms (more voltage) the faster you go. They do this by running voltage through the Throttle and then read it. So if the Throttle is outputing .8 to 3.6 then it's not the Throttle.
Now the breaks levers work back wards. If the lever is pressed it will show a voltage. Which tells the controller the breaks are applied and the controller cuts power to the motor. See it has a normaly open stwich in the break levers. That means the stwich is turn off when the lever is not pressed. something like this....
So that tells me the break level is working right.
So does the bike use PAS or just Throttle? If there is a PAS connected then I'd disconnect it and try just the Throttle. If that works then it's the PAS. PAS = Pedal Assistant System.
All the voltages look good on the old and new controller and look to be the same type. So eighter should work. That leaves me thinking that it a broke wire. Now that you have two not working contorllers that tells me it out side the controller. I'd have to say one of the wires going to the motor. More likely one of the hall sensores. Some controllers need the hall sensores connected. Some do not. You sould have two big wire (red/Black) for power and 5 for Hall sensores. I would check these wires.
Hope this helps a little
See controller use voltage from Throttle by use the 5k resistor called a POT. The less oms (more voltage) the faster you go. They do this by running voltage through the Throttle and then read it. So if the Throttle is outputing .8 to 3.6 then it's not the Throttle.
Now the breaks levers work back wards. If the lever is pressed it will show a voltage. Which tells the controller the breaks are applied and the controller cuts power to the motor. See it has a normaly open stwich in the break levers. That means the stwich is turn off when the lever is not pressed. something like this....
So that tells me the break level is working right.
So does the bike use PAS or just Throttle? If there is a PAS connected then I'd disconnect it and try just the Throttle. If that works then it's the PAS. PAS = Pedal Assistant System.
All the voltages look good on the old and new controller and look to be the same type. So eighter should work. That leaves me thinking that it a broke wire. Now that you have two not working contorllers that tells me it out side the controller. I'd have to say one of the wires going to the motor. More likely one of the hall sensores. Some controllers need the hall sensores connected. Some do not. You sould have two big wire (red/Black) for power and 5 for Hall sensores. I would check these wires.
Hope this helps a little
10-05-12, 02:13 PM
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It is a Serengeti motorsports rhino
Model number ms-ss501 36v12ah
This is accually a scooter not a bike. The set up is basicly all wires run to the contoler box it only has two wires to the motor and it has a half geisha grip throttle hall effect three wires so does not have a pot and as for the break levers one shows voltage always unless break applyed then cuts all power new one shows no voltage
Model number ms-ss501 36v12ah
This is accually a scooter not a bike. The set up is basicly all wires run to the contoler box it only has two wires to the motor and it has a half geisha grip throttle hall effect three wires so does not have a pot and as for the break levers one shows voltage always unless break applyed then cuts all power new one shows no voltage
10-05-12, 11:00 PM
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Oh, it's a scooter that does make a little difference.
Now at no time do you get voltage out of the controller, right?
From what we gone over so far I say it's a bad switch or broken wire. The broken wire is kind of out of the picture because of you putting a new controller on the scooter. So that leaves a bad switch. There are only 2 switches that could cause the bike not to run, the power (keyed) switch and Break switch.
You did say in your last post that old break lever shows power untill you pressed the lever then no volts. and the other shows no voltage at any time right? What I'd do is disconnect both break levers and see if it works. if it does then connect the new one and see if it works. if it still is not working then connect the old one and leave the new one disconnected and see if it works. This will show you which one is the problem. I don't think it's the power switch because you are getting voltage when turn on at the controller.
Now at no time do you get voltage out of the controller, right?
From what we gone over so far I say it's a bad switch or broken wire. The broken wire is kind of out of the picture because of you putting a new controller on the scooter. So that leaves a bad switch. There are only 2 switches that could cause the bike not to run, the power (keyed) switch and Break switch.
You did say in your last post that old break lever shows power untill you pressed the lever then no volts. and the other shows no voltage at any time right? What I'd do is disconnect both break levers and see if it works. if it does then connect the new one and see if it works. if it still is not working then connect the old one and leave the new one disconnected and see if it works. This will show you which one is the problem. I don't think it's the power switch because you are getting voltage when turn on at the controller.
Last edited by CigTech; 10-05-12 at 11:38 PM.
