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  1. #1
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    Lightbulb What can you expect from an e-assist bike, share your numbers

    My bike is an ORIX 27 speed MTB with a BionX 350htrr retrofit system, $1995. It is Li-ion 48v battery with a 8.8 Ahr 400 Whr 6.6 to 29.6 ft-lbs of torque hub motor. 275Lbs total, me, bike, BionX set up and my other stuff I usually take with me... What are your numbers on your E-Assist bikes? These are mine... I now have over 3,000KMs without the slightest of problems with the BionX set up...

    Range (manufacturers numbers) is supposed to be. 105 kms/65.5 Miles using level 1 all the way, flat road, depending on wind weight, hills...
    I can get........................................................... 120 Kms/75.0 Miles using level 1 all the way, 1 bar left out of 8 for battery level
    I can get ........................................................... 50 Kms/30 Miles using level 4 all the way...... 1 bar left out of 8 for battery level
    Lent my bike to a buddy .................................. 17.4 KMs/10.5 Miles, I guess he decided to use it as a Mo-Ped, 0 bars left out of 8 for battery level...

    Max level used was level 1 and only when "needed", Econo riding.. 80Kms/50Miles 7 bars left out of 8 for battery level.
    (In theory) I "could" have went................................................. 560Kms/350Miles 1 bar left out of 8 for battery level)

    I used whatever level needed, "normal" riding............................. 75Kms/47Miles 3 bars left out of 8 for battery level.
    (In theory) I "could" have went.................................................. 105Kms/65Miles 1 bar left out of 8 for battery level)

    On the hills, it assists me using level 4 average speed (me putting out some major effort)...
    4-5% hill 2.9Kms/1.8Miles................................................. 32.0Kmh/20.0MPH, I can only do 12.8Kms/8 MPH by myself only... 2.5X faster but the speed nanny cuts out assist at 32K/20M.
    7.5-13% hill 3.5Km/2.2Miles...................................................20.0Kmh/12.5MPH, I can only do 8.0Kms/5.0MPH by myself only... 2.5X faster.
    20-23% hill1.5Kms/0.9Miles................................................11.2Kmh/7.0MPH, I can only do 6.4Kmh/4.0MPH by myself only... 1.75X faster, BUT, I made it up the hill without thinking I was going to die, unlike under my own power only.

    On flat roads (some small hills) my average speed used to be 24Kmh/15MPH with only me powering the bike, now it's an easy 29Kmh/18MPH on level 1, or an easy 32Kmh/20MPH on level 4
    Last edited by 350htrr; 08-28-14 at 08:01 PM. Reason: add more info
    He uses statistics as a drunken man uses lamp-posts...for support rather than illumination. I do like my beer, so sometimes I do end up leaning on the lamp-post...

  2. #2
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    I have the same Bionx 48v kit installed in my HP Velotechnik FS trike along with a streamer fairing. The total weight of the bike is about 70 lbs.
    The range I am getting now is very similar to what you said. When I first bought the Bionx I had planned to buy a 2nd battery for long tour (+100 miles). Now it becomes unnecessary because I only use my Bionx when needed. It is fairly easy to maintain the momentum of a heavy bike at 15 mph with no power assist on the flat and only have the power kicked in when needed. Also if you can hold off the temptation of high speed down hill speed ride by turning on the regenerative function at speed of 18 mph and higher you can get over 100 miles range between charge.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Ypedal's Avatar
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    This is expressed in Wh/Km ( Watt Hour per Kilometer ).

    Most ebike setups at 30 kph will average 8~10wh/km on level ground, NO PEDALING, with 200 lbs rider.

    I've tried cyclone, crystalyte ( 4 and X5 series ) , BionX, UltraMotor, Nine Continents, eZee, MXUS, Golden Motor etc etc etc....... Brushed, Brushless, geared, Driect drive of all sorts, and at every voltage form 24v to 100v ..

    Efficiency of the bike as far as electrical consumption goes, should never include pedal input imo, given the non-scientific wide range of effort provided by the cyclist, you could get unlimited mileage from any battery pack, if you never hit the throttle lol... So with that in mind, i feel specifications on range should be given using motor only, then you can extend range, or decrease expectations depending on your level of effort and/or conditions.

    Going full out on 100v Direct Drive hub motor at 60 kph, i burn thru about 20~30 wh/km, depending on wind direction...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ypedal View Post
    I've tried cyclone, crystalyte ( 4 and X5 series ) , BionX, UltraMotor, Nine Continents, eZee, MXUS, Golden Motor etc etc etc....... Brushed, Brushless, geared, Driect drive of all sorts, and at every voltage form 24v to 100v ..
    Ypedal, I'm in the process of making the temp sensor feature of the CA v3 active on my current 48v 1000w hub motor and was wondering if you've made similar conversions on any of your hub motors? I would greatly appreciate your input and any pictures/videos of the process. Perhaps you could start a new thread and include any links to YouTube videos and/or pictures.

    I spoke with Justin at ebikes.ca and he mentioned using a dremel to cut a channel into the hub motor shaft to pass the temp sensor wiring. I was wondering if you've done this procedure and if so, would you please post any tips, hints, pictures, and videos that you may think helpful.

    We appreciate your time and advice on this forum. I've used one of your YouTube videos already in assisting my hub motor modifications.


    If we don't make changes to our use and abuse of energy, Mother Nature will make it for us.
    Be a part of the solution to Global Warming instead of a contributor.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Ypedal's Avatar
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    If you push the motor to it's maximum potential or more, a temp sensor is a good idea but i've used other methods to prevent meltdowns, like using the proper motor rpm/volt in the right rim size, to prevent overheating under most usage, yes, i've had 2 meltdowns and both were with my 350 lbs friend riding off-road at low speeds...

    Depending on the motor type, wires exiting the bearing *( xlyte, UM, BionX, ) vs centre of the axle( 9C, mxus, ) .. installing a temp probe varies in difficulty, the clyte type is easier as you usually have enough room to wedge them in as-is or ream out the slot a bit with a dremel and a stack of cutting disks if you also use large motor phase wires... the 9C thru axle type is more work and what Justin suggested is likely for this reason, making a slot opposite of the motor wires, thru the bearing for the temp sensor is the least difficult option.

    Keep the temps below 100 celcius on the outside and you should have no problems..

    I'll see what i can do about a video this winter.. would be a fun project.

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