Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 46
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Curious about a E-bike

    I am kinda looking into a E-bike because when biking I can bike for a while but then my legs may give out or i may collapse because my heart hurts.

    So i was looking into a E-bike or something but heres some questions

    1. do i need a lience to ride 1 in my state (MN)
    2. Whats a good 1 that can go to a nice speed to fast speed
    3. are they expensive
    4. is it possiable to turn my current bike (semi new still) into a ebike or no?
    5. Any tips i should know about them?
    6. Can i still ride a E-bike as a bike untill my legs give out?

  2. #2
    Transportation Cyclist turbo1889's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana U.S.A.
    My Bikes
    Too many to list, some I built myself including the frame. I "do" ~ Human-Only-Pedal-Powered-Cycles, Human-Electric-Hybrid-Cycles, Human-IC-Hybrid-Cycles, and one Human-IC-Electric-3way-Hybrid-Cycle
    Posts
    1,206
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BubbaX View Post
    I am kinda looking into a E-bike because when biking I can bike for a while but then my legs may give out or i may collapse because my heart hurts.

    So i was looking into a E-bike or something but heres some questions

    1. do i need a lience to ride 1 in my state (MN)
    2. Whats a good 1 that can go to a nice speed to fast speed
    3. are they expensive
    4. is it possiable to turn my current bike (semi new still) into a ebike or no?
    5. Any tips i should know about them?
    6. Can i still ride a E-bike as a bike untill my legs give out?

    A1 ~ No, In your state you do not need a drivers license but some other limits apply (Must by at least 15 years of age, bike cannot go faster then 20mph under motor power, bike cannot have a bigger motor then 1,000 watts) Details for your state (and a lot of others) are available here:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electri...ements_for_use
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electri...laws#Minnesota


    A2 ~ There are a huge number of answers to this question, Assuming you want to buy a ready to go e-bike lets start with what kind of bike you like to ride first of all (road bike, mountain bike, city bike, hybrid bike, cruiser bike, cargo bike, etc . . .) and then how much do you want to spend to get quality and how much is the maximum you would ever spend. Also do you have a lot of hills or are your rides mainly flat (for lots of hills you probably want to look at a mid-drive bike where the motors work through the bikes gears to give you strong gears to climb hills - for flat land hub-motors that don't go through the bikes gears but are built into the center of the wheel are fine).

    A3 ~ Depends on what you consider expensive. As with most things you often get what you pay for. However, by careful shopping and selection to suit your needs you can often pay a little less for a little more quality then you would get by just making a quick purchase without carefully researching your options and comparing prices. Expect to spend at least $500 for anything of halfway decent quality for the electric parts. That is for a kit to add to a bike, add to that the cost of the bike itself minus all the electric parts, your not going to get much bike for anything much less then $200. So if you bought a complete unit bike and electric parts together you aren't going to get away with paying less then $700 unless you buy used.

    A4 ~ Yes, there are a whole lot of add on kits sold to convert a regular bike. In fact there are more and a better selection of kits out there then complete e-bikes for sale and most of the e-bikes for sale use parts that you could get yourself in the form of a bike and a kit and put together to end up with the same results. There are a few exception out there consisting of e-bikes that are complete units built from the ground up to be e-bikes often with the electric motor built right into the bikes bottom bracket (the part of the bike that holds the pedals shaft) but they are the exception not the norm and some of them are worth buying.

    A5 ~ Yes, clearly define what you want and then get advice and carefully shop and compare. If you don't know what your doing you can end up paying good money for shiny fancy junk that is all frills and bells and whistles but won't last beyond the first few hundred miles. Make a conscious decision not to let your eyes glaze over and to be "suckered" into buying either because of an unreasonably low price (junk) or to buy something because of hyped claims and shiny trinkets and a bunch of unnecessary bells and whistles. About half of the e-bike market is tilted toward "suckers" and centers around selling either really cheap junk to those who only look at the lowest price tag without checking quality or those who like shiny trinkets loaded with bells and whistles. You want to go towards the other half of the market looking for simplicity and reasonable quality at a reasonable price. You want something that is a little higher price then the bottom of the barrel and simple and effective, that is the part of the market you need to focus on looking at.

    Q6 ~ Yes, provided you get the right kind of set-up. For that purpose you will want to avoid three things - direct drive hub-motors, PAS systems, and lead acid batteries. Direct drive hub-motors have a noticable drag on the wheel when you are pedaling without running the motor. PAS systems do not have a manual throttle on the handlebars but rather have a sensor on the pedals that turns on the motor when you pedal. Lead acid batteries are heavy and add a lot of weight that makes it a lot harder to ride the bike under pedal power alone.


    Please give us a little more info so we can better direct you towards what you are looking for. Especially answer the question as to what kind of bike you like to ride, how hilly where you ride is, and how far do you need the bike to run on electric power alone to get you home after your legs give out (assuming you intend to ride under pedal power alone until your legs give out and then use the electric to turn around and get back) or how far do you need to go under motor power alone in general. Answers to those questions will really help us point you in the right direction.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by turbo1889 View Post
    A1 ~ No, In your state you do not need a drivers license but some other limits apply (Must by at least 15 years of age, bike cannot go faster then 20mph under motor power, bike cannot have a bigger motor then 1,000 watts) Details for your state (and a lot of others) are available here:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electri...ements_for_use
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electri...laws#Minnesota

    Thanks i got this 1 figured
    A2 ~ There are a huge number of answers to this question, Assuming you want to buy a ready to go e-bike lets start with what kind of bike you like to ride first of all (road bike, mountain bike, city bike, hybrid bike, cruiser bike, cargo bike, etc . . .) and then how much do you want to spend to get quality and how much is the maximum you would ever spend. Also do you have a lot of hills or are your rides mainly flat (for lots of hills you probably want to look at a mid-drive bike where the motors work through the bikes gears to give you strong gears to climb hills - for flat land hub-motors that don't go through the bikes gears but are built into the center of the wheel are fine)
    I got a mountain bike right now 20mph is fine with me i guess and quality i dont want it breaking after 1 use if thats what you mean Max i would would depend but i want to spend little as possible because it just sounds wasteful at same time. No hill mostly flat
    A3 ~ Depends on what you consider expensive. As with most things you often get what you pay for. However, by careful shopping and selection to suit your needs you can often pay a little less for a little more quality then you would get by just making a quick purchase without carefully researching your options and comparing prices. Expect to spend at least $500 for anything of halfway decent quality for the electric parts. That is for a kit to add to a bike, add to that the cost of the bike itself minus all the electric parts, your not going to get much bike for anything much less then $200. So if you bought a complete unit bike and electric parts together you aren't going to get away with paying less then $700 unless you buy used.dk
    Idk about you but 2000 is expensive 2 me. Can you help me find something that meets this:
    20mph max (i guess), flat roads, mountain bike, less then 500 thats my current bike if its possiable to make it work on mine if it cant and i need to buy a whole new 1
    less then 500 or so because I am trying to spend as little as i can lately and 200 dollars for my current bike was a bit much atm.....

    A4 ~ Yes, there are a whole lot of add on kits sold to convert a regular bike. In fact there are more and a better selection of kits out there then complete e-bikes for sale and most of the e-bikes for sale use parts that you could get yourself in the form of a bike and a kit and put together to end up with the same results. There are a few exception out there consisting of e-bikes that are complete units built from the ground up to be e-bikes often with the electric motor built right into the bikes bottom bracket (the part of the bike that holds the pedals shaft) but they are the exception not the norm and some of them are worth buying
    could you recomeend something meeting my current standards above or something?
    A5 ~ Yes, clearly define what you want and then get advice and carefully shop and compare. If you don't know what your doing you can end up paying good money for shiny fancy junk that is all frills and bells and whistles but won't last beyond the first few hundred miles. Make a conscious decision not to let your eyes glaze over and to be "suckered" into buying either because of an unreasonably low price (junk) or to buy something because of hyped claims and shiny trinkets and a bunch of unnecessary bells and whistles. About half of the e-bike market is tilted toward "suckers" and centers around selling either really cheap junk to those who only look at the lowest price tag without checking quality or those who like shiny trinkets loaded with bells and whistles. You want to go towards the other half of the market looking for simplicity and reasonable quality at a reasonable price. You want something that is a little higher price then the bottom of the barrel and simple and effective, that is the part of the market you need to focus on looking at.
    I stated what i want above can you help with that or what more info do you need?
    Q6 ~ Yes, provided you get the right kind of set-up. For that purpose you will want to avoid three things - direct drive hub-motors, PAS systems, and lead acid batteries. Direct drive hub-motors have a noticable drag on the wheel when you are pedaling without running the motor. PAS systems do not have a manual throttle on the handlebars but rather have a sensor on the pedals that turns on the motor when you pedal. Lead acid batteries are heavy and add a lot of weight that makes it a lot harder to ride the bike under pedal power alone.


    Please give us a little more info so we can better direct you towards what you are looking for. Especially answer the question as to what kind of bike you like to ride, how hilly where you ride is, and how far do you need the bike to run on electric power alone to get you home after your legs give out (assuming you intend to ride under pedal power alone until your legs give out and then use the electric to turn around and get back) or how far do you need to go under motor power alone in general. Answers to those questions will really help us point you in the right direction.
    I ride a mountain bike, not hilly just flat roads some slight but not over the top hills on a road, on roads and dirt roads of country fields, least 10miles maybe more, i mean the distance for me leaving to go the 1 house is 6miles. But there and back because i highly doubt this thing recharges fast.

  4. #4
    . adamdunn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    France
    My Bikes
    GT ZR3000, Cannondale Trail SL, Peugeot PX10
    Posts
    12
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    an e-bike

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by adamdunn View Post
    an e-bike

    If your not going to post anything helping or worth posting get out of the post please?

  6. #6
    Transportation Cyclist turbo1889's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana U.S.A.
    My Bikes
    Too many to list, some I built myself including the frame. I "do" ~ Human-Only-Pedal-Powered-Cycles, Human-Electric-Hybrid-Cycles, Human-IC-Hybrid-Cycles, and one Human-IC-Electric-3way-Hybrid-Cycle
    Posts
    1,206
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Okay, for the budget you are looking for this is the direction I would direct you:

    This for the motor drive kit:
    ----- http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog...bhguafvpeep9d0

    I don't know how many they have at that price, but it is a very good price for what you are getting. That's an external controller cyclone kit or a variation there-of. Although Cylone kits aren't top of the line provided you get one of their larger motors that uses an external controller or convert one of their smaller motors to use an external controller and by-pass the internal controller (the internal controller is the weak link in the cyclone units) they are a pretty good choice. A little noisy but its the metal gears in the motor head that make all the noise. Not near as noisy as a gas motor or anything but you will notice it, just smile and consider it a reminder that the first stage gear reduction is made out of metal components.

    I don't have that exact model myself. I have a smaller 360watt motor that I converted to use an external controller. That 650watt model is the smallest motor they make that is set-up to use an external controller straight out of the box and is thus one of the most popular ones. In the picture I can't tell if the controller (large silver box) is a Kelly unit or not. Hopefully it is because they are programmable and you can plug them into a lap-top and adjust their settings which if it is I would suggest you turn down the max throttle setting from its 650watt maximum to about 400watts or so to save battery and keep your top speed legal and running a larger motor at a slightly lower power setting is a good way to make your components last longer.


    For the Battery Pack:
    ----- You could go with some 7-cell Li-Ion Poly packs made for RC hobbies and pick up four of them in the 5000-5800mAh range and run them in parallel wiring configuration. Such as these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tSortOrder=asc and this one looks like the best deal they have presently http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

    Or ----- could go with some Prismatic LiFePO4 cells, namely two of these wired together in series: http://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4-...thout-PCM.aspx


    Works out to about the same amount of battery capacity at the same price either way. But there is considerable difference between the two types of batteries. Li-Ion Poly packs are all about packing the maximum amount of energy in the smallest and lightest package possible and they will be smaller and lighter for the same amount of battery but they are a temperamental battery chemistry. They won't last for as many recharges, you will need a charger specifically made to charge them (also bought from a hobby outlet) and they can be potentially dangerous because if they are damaged and then you try to use them while they are damaged they can start themselves on fire (Boing 777 DreamLiner for example). LiFePO4 batteries are a little larger and a little heavier (but still a lot smaller and lighter then Lead-Acid or Ni-Cd or NiMH batteries) and are much less temperamental. If you use two 12V packs wired together in series to make 24V you can charge each 12V pack individually with the same kind of charger you use to charge a car battery or even charge them right off of a car using jumper cables. Its a little better for the batteries if you charge them with a LiFePO4 battery charger but the point is you can do it in a pinch if you need to ~ that don't work with Li-Ion batteries if you try that you are going to wreck them or start a fire. It is also very difficult to make LiFePO4 batteries start themselves on fire accidently. You really have to damage them really bad and then try to charge the heck out of them for that to happen. Properly cared for LiFePO4 batteries will last twice as long as Li-Ion batteries.

    Long story short do you want the little heavier and bulkier but still a lot better then most other battery types LiFePO4 batteries or do you want to go all out and go even lighter weight and smaller with the Li-Ion batteries that are more temperamental and have to be cared for more carefully?



    Either way not including shipping cost and your time and effort to put it together your looking at splitting that $500 in half. On half for the kit and the other half for the batteries.

    Nothing I say here should be considered as gospel truth you still need to do some of your own research and your the one going to have to put it all together into a working unit but that is the direction I would point you in (at no obligation to myself afterwards) considering your budget and what you are trying to do.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i want something between heavy and light duriable but not something to not be able 2 move the bike

    I am hoping not to spend up to 500

    there was cheaper E-bikes around so im hoping to get it done cheaply.

  8. #8
    Transportation Cyclist turbo1889's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana U.S.A.
    My Bikes
    Too many to list, some I built myself including the frame. I "do" ~ Human-Only-Pedal-Powered-Cycles, Human-Electric-Hybrid-Cycles, Human-IC-Hybrid-Cycles, and one Human-IC-Electric-3way-Hybrid-Cycle
    Posts
    1,206
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Oh, yah. In regard to that research thing.

    Here is a link to the manufactures web-site for the cyclone drive company (the kit I linked to isn't advertised as one of theirs but its a darn close copy if its not the same exact thing). They are in Taiwan and the prices on their web-site are for buying from them directly, and that doesn't take into account the international shipping. What Sick Bikes is offering is a pretty good price as you can see:

    http://www.cyclone-tw.com/order-1chain.htm

    And here is a link to a Y-tube video showing a lower powered (360watt) cyclone kit installed and in use:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTR_h0P6jEc

    Most cyclone motors are a little "hot" on their RPM's which means when running the motor your going to be using the first three to four gears. Not a problem just downshift before you engage the motor and stop pedaling to give the motor a gear ratio it likes.
    Last edited by turbo1889; 05-15-13 at 06:38 PM.

  9. #9
    Transportation Cyclist turbo1889's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montana U.S.A.
    My Bikes
    Too many to list, some I built myself including the frame. I "do" ~ Human-Only-Pedal-Powered-Cycles, Human-Electric-Hybrid-Cycles, Human-IC-Hybrid-Cycles, and one Human-IC-Electric-3way-Hybrid-Cycle
    Posts
    1,206
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You posted inbetween my posts. As I said the "Cyclone" drive (and clones) are not considered top of the line nor bottom of the barrel (well okay some people consider their motors with the internal controllers near bottom of the barrel but most people think their motors with external controllers work pretty well and hold up, its the internal controllers that go out). $250 for a brushless kit is a pretty good price, you can find some junky hub-motor kits for cheaper but they are pretty lame.

    There is the Currie bikes and kits that are cheaper that use a brushed motor built into the left side of the rear wheel axle. You don't have the advantage of being able to gear down to climb hills with them and the brushed motors aren't as efficient and wear out quicker. They are a little cheaper though (not much for the non-battery part of the kit) where they mainly save money on their kits is with the battery they give you. A big giant heavy lead acid bugger that works better as a door stop and is a pain to haul if your just pedaling with out the motor.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    this doesnt help as much as im still more confused then ever

  11. #11
    Administrator Allen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atomic batteries to power; turbines to speed
    My Bikes
    Salsa La Raza, Panasonic Electric, Bria, Bamboo touring, Bamboo cargo
    Posts
    4,708
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BubbaX View Post
    this doesnt help as much as im still more confused then ever
    A reliable motor and battery are going to run north of $500.00
    A new reliable bike is going to be close to the same.

    You can find cheaper but keep in mind that box store (WalMart, etc.) bikes have an average life span from showroom to landfill of less than 100 miles and the components will reflect that.

    With electric bikes in many ways you get what you pay for. Reliability and range are expensive. Cheap bikes can work but more often than not, not for long before presenting a laundry list of maintenance issues. Sometimes not for very long at all.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Canada, PG BC
    My Bikes
    27 speed oryx
    Posts
    892
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BubbaX View Post
    this doesnt help as much as im still more confused then ever
    You get what you pay for, usually... I think $1,000+ is the number that would work for your needs unless you are willing and able to do all the work for yourself... JMO $2,000 for a system already bought from somewhere that understands you needs... EDIT: Oh, and there is a difference between an E-bike and an E-assist bike...
    Last edited by 350htrr; 05-15-13 at 08:00 PM.
    He uses statistics as a drunken man uses lamp-posts...for support rather than illumination. I do like my beer, so sometimes I do end up leaning on the lamp-post...

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    well i wany something where i can ride like 3 miles and if my legs give out or my heart hurts it can carry me 2miles or 3miles back

    i would say the furthest a day id do is 12miles and thats to and from if im lazy or its 2 far

    I would buy a premade but there expensive n stuff (unless someone can show me a good 1 for a cheaper price)

    But i would buy the parts but the following issues

    1: I dont know how to put stuff together
    2: i dont have any knowledge in what to get for cheaper price but reliablity
    3: i am scared of price or messing up

    I would like something that goes 20mph max because i dont want to get a lience to ride a bike lol

    So does that help anyone help me?

  14. #14
    Administrator Allen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atomic batteries to power; turbines to speed
    My Bikes
    Salsa La Raza, Panasonic Electric, Bria, Bamboo touring, Bamboo cargo
    Posts
    4,708
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Bubba, look at curie bikes. They should fit most of your needs. Also look at Park Tools website. They have lots of info on how to work on your bike.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    those bikes are in the thousands of dollars range

    whose got money for that.....

  16. #16
    Administrator Allen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atomic batteries to power; turbines to speed
    My Bikes
    Salsa La Raza, Panasonic Electric, Bria, Bamboo touring, Bamboo cargo
    Posts
    4,708
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    There are lower end curries too. Look for threads started by user Dark Angel. He has a cheapest ebike thread that could help.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    il check but im not sure il find anything good


    Didnt see anything good (unless i want to spend 500 dollars fora e-bike but then need new tires it says)


    Can someone suggest a kit + battery?
    Last edited by BubbaX; 05-16-13 at 06:45 PM.

  18. #18
    Administrator Allen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atomic batteries to power; turbines to speed
    My Bikes
    Salsa La Raza, Panasonic Electric, Bria, Bamboo touring, Bamboo cargo
    Posts
    4,708
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BubbaX View Post
    il check but im not sure il find anything good


    Didnt see anything good (unless i want to spend 500 dollars fora e-bike but then need new tires it says)


    Can someone suggest a kit + battery?
    With a low price bike you are going to have to learn how to do some maintainance.
    Fortunately you can fix most things with pliers and screwdrivers.

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I dont no maintaince unless its stuff on the bike which then i can have my boss, dad, or coworker do for me

    but if its got to do with battery and stuff then i may be in trouble


    But can you suggest a battery n kit for less then 500 that can do at a miniumum of 12miles distance
    and max speed of 20?

  20. #20
    Administrator Allen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atomic batteries to power; turbines to speed
    My Bikes
    Salsa La Raza, Panasonic Electric, Bria, Bamboo touring, Bamboo cargo
    Posts
    4,708
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Walmart maybe. Their E-Zip is in that price point.
    It is going to be made of bottom end parts but it will work for a time and WalMart has a decent return policy.

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Western Canada
    My Bikes
    E+ kit, Tidal Force, Merida
    Posts
    325
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Post

    I agree with all above posts.
    It is obvious.
    For low quality department store ebikes you need knowledge , be mechanical fix person and have a tools. Not only common tools but also bicycle tools otherwise yu would have to use bike shops. Those Wallmart bicycle will not last long with no maintenance often right out of the doors.
    cheap components require constant adjusting, tweaking and it never ends.
    I own 3 ebikes , two of them $2000-4000 and one around $1000.

    riding experience, it is all about it.
    Example cheap $10 derouller no matter how you adjust will not switch with precision like normal $40-$50 one.
    $10 means plastic body derouller which is not stiff.
    And it is just one example, chaep wheels will get loose spokes all the time - on other end normal min$150 wheel will last thousands of miles without any maintenance.
    and list of cheepe components goes on and on.
    this way or another you will pay with $$$ or with your time spent and dirty hands.
    don't believe that on 500dollar ebike you can ride and ride with no issues for 1000 miles , no way.
    Last edited by powell; 05-16-13 at 09:39 PM.

  22. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    well just fyi i dont need to ever go 1000 miles and if i did that be my trip to vegas and back (i think)

    but i want something that is reliable and can go a decent miles and speed

    I understand im being picky on price

    but when you work minium wage (or a little less) part time
    you need to be careful how you spend and thats what worries me.

  23. #23
    Administrator Allen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atomic batteries to power; turbines to speed
    My Bikes
    Salsa La Raza, Panasonic Electric, Bria, Bamboo touring, Bamboo cargo
    Posts
    4,708
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BubbaX View Post
    well just fyi i dont need to ever go 1000 miles and if i did that be my trip to vegas and back (i think)

    but i want something that is reliable and can go a decent miles and speed

    I understand im being picky on price

    but when you work minium wage (or a little less) part time
    you need to be careful how you spend and thats what worries me.
    Look at the Wally World bikes and buy the extended warrantee. Most WalMarts don't have a repair shop, when it breaks take it back and have them pull the next one off the shelf. When it breaks, repeat.


    I don't know the low end kits. Problem there is when it dies you are going to play hell returning it.
    You are looking at a price point where maintenance issues ARE going to be a given. Concentrate on where you want to buy your bike and find a retailer that you know will accept a return if the bike has a catastrophic failure.
    Last edited by Allen; 05-16-13 at 10:24 PM.

  24. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Western Canada
    My Bikes
    E+ kit, Tidal Force, Merida
    Posts
    325
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    1000 miles total I mean not on one battery charge of course.

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i ment total 2 i know its impossiable for a electric bike to go 1000 on 1 charge

    and il look at wally mart but i dont see E-bikes in store just online where im from (i no i looked today)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •