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Old 06-19-13, 06:10 AM   #1
iridie
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Ezip motor replacement

So. I ran the gear off of my 24v motor.
Yes running at 48 volts on mine stripped the rod and left the gear laying on the road somewhere between here and there.
So I know I need a replacement. The direct drop in upgrade is 36v.

At this point, that is the motor I will be going with. Is there anything stronger/better to consider that won't require a complete rewiring of the bike?
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Old 06-19-13, 08:30 AM   #2
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This is the exact motor I am gonna order
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?rou...product_id=334
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Old 06-25-13, 04:19 PM   #3
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I'd found an older post yesterday that said the 36v motor would need to have the mounting plate's screw holes bored/modded in order to accommodate the pattern on the 36v 450w motor.
Funny but I cant find that post now.

Last edited by iridie; 06-26-13 at 12:15 PM. Reason: explained wrong information I had given
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Old 06-25-13, 09:26 PM   #4
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MY1018z 36V should be a direct replacement.
However 36V motor at 48V = only 600w output.
24V motor at 48V = 900w output.
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Old 06-26-13, 05:45 AM   #5
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DRKANGEL!!!! I'm glad you are still around. I ended up stripping the motor freewheel off of the motor rod. How would that even happen?
I took it to the suggested walmart .com ebike service center here and had the motor remounted after changing the rear tire myself. Could it be that they put it back on half-cocked?
On this day in particular, I was running the motor full throttle all the way back home just to see how much it could take. Yeah it could have been me but, no one seems to have had that happen. All I've read about is the motor burning up. That motor still runs fine it just has a stripped rod apparently.
Is it possible to repair or replace that rod?

And my info about the 36 volt my1018z came from a 2009 post on one of these forums. I will provide a link in a second.

Do you know of any tools that will make mounting my new 24 volt 450w easier. At this point, I'm just gonna do everything myself

Last edited by iridie; 06-26-13 at 05:49 AM.
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Old 06-26-13, 06:55 AM   #6
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grocery list for today:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/111012845261


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=A99MZGWBBIGK9

anything else that you suggest?
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Old 06-26-13, 07:15 AM   #7
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Lightbulb

The motor sprocket is secured from spinning by a "key".



Likely, you only need to replace key. 4mm key.

Any rear wheel work is greatly simplified by adding a quick disconnect to the motor.


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Old 06-26-13, 07:29 AM   #8
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if that's the case i may be running a dual motor set up here soon.
i notice you have heat shrink running the entire length of those motor wires. Why the entire length and not just right by the deans connectors?

I'm just asking because it will be my 1st time actually cutting the wires on the bike itself

*i just took my two batteries down to get a 360 degree view of the thread.
to me, the threads look fine. No flat spots or anywhere that looks like a gear had ripped off and caused damage..
I think I am gonna order a new gear and key just for s and g's.

My thinking now is that he was just more interested in getting me a refund so I could come back and pay him $999 for one of the newer enlightened models.

Hence, from here on out I'll just do this myself with the help of this forum

Last edited by iridie; 06-26-13 at 07:48 AM. Reason: checked motor rod thread
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Old 06-26-13, 07:46 AM   #9
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Prettier?

I cut at 2 1/4" from motor.
Measured after 1st mod job, to keep all my eZips interchangeable.

If doing again, I would probably cut ... leaving longer wires on motor.
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Old 06-26-13, 08:23 AM   #10
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Prettier works for me!
I will be holding true to your 2 1/4 experienced cut location
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Old 06-26-13, 12:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrkAngel View Post
The motor sprocket is secured from spinning by a "key".



Likely, you only need to replace key. 4mm key.
I cannot believe that all of this was caused by a loose bolt!!!!!!!!!!!
What size bolt would that be?
I need to physically test that thread before I order the gear and key (and jump into making the dual motor mounting plate)
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Old 06-26-13, 05:17 PM   #12
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Sprocket is held on with M8 - 1.25 nut.
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Old 07-02-13, 07:38 PM   #13
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Why are you considering the dual motor setup? I did twin motors (several different ways) and found it better and simpler to go with a single motor running 48v. But you need to monitor the motor heat. You can run it pretty hard but sooner or later it will heat up. I use a temp. Readout and reduce power when I get over 150 degrees.

Bob
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Old 07-07-13, 08:41 AM   #14
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simply because, soon I will have two completely functional currie motors but only one bike.......
The bike is currently set up with temp display and the motor has only gotten slightly hot to the touch so I think I was pretty good on temps. On this particular day I rode it full throttle both there and back just to see if the motor could handle it. Turns out the motor is A-Ok! The gear that holds the chain on however..............
Think I'm gonna be sure to put some loctite on this new motor once it gets here.
Is that a good idea?

Last edited by iridie; 07-07-13 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 07-07-13, 10:52 AM   #15
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24v and 36v motors will not play nice with each other!

Last edited by DrkAngel; 07-07-13 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 07-08-13, 05:19 PM   #16
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I've been using 5 different Currie motors ver the past 5 years. I have removed the drive gears n each oh them several times and I have never had one come loose. I would not recommend loctite for this application. But if you feel you must then be sure to only use it on the threads and not the actual gear. If you ever need to remove that gear the loctite will be a PITA even if only on the threads. Bob
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Old 07-16-13, 09:59 AM   #17
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Thanks to all of you guys for posting here and helping me come up with a solution to my problem.
What ended up happening is that currie sent me both a replacement motor and an extra gear (with key) and nut to repair the original 24v motor. Those kind people ROCK.
I definitely would buy another Currie Ezip and the good thing is that now I'm starting to see more and more electric bikes in my area.
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Old 07-22-13, 04:00 PM   #18
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My xt connectors arrived today. Finally.
Can you go a little deeper on the deans plug connection picture for me?
Keep in mind that I am a noob.
It looks like to me you cut into the single black wire, which exposed the red and black positive and negative wires.
Then you removed the thick black wire casing all together.
Put the red and black heatshrink on and thicker all black heat shrink
Then soldered on the deans plugs
Next slid red and black heat shrink into place and applied heat
Then slid the thicker black heatsink over all of that
Applied more heat to lock the thick black heatsink into place
And then you were finished.
Is this right?
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Old 07-22-13, 09:17 PM   #19
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Correct.

Wanting to standardize all my eZips, I cut the wire at 2.25" (2 1/4")from the motor.

Also, I use the top of the T as the positive.

For safety, I use the female half of the connector on the power source end. No exposed powered prongs to accidentally touch anything.
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Old 07-25-13, 08:47 PM   #20
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Thank you so much for all of your help. I haven't performed the procedure yet (probably this weekend) but, with you guys knowledge I am that much more confident in my ability to complete this successfully.
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Old 07-30-13, 09:58 AM   #21
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New motor - same issue......
Today I turned the throttle and all I hear is spinning. I know the motor is getting power, and I know the motor itself is not shot because of this. The problem is that the gear is not spinning the chain. Luckily I haven't lost the bolt, the gear or the key. However, the bike just wont go!
Why is this happening?
What has happened?
Keep in mind that I am running 48 volts...


in the image i have taken off the bolt to make sure the key was still in place
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Last edited by iridie; 07-30-13 at 10:01 AM. Reason: added image
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Old 07-30-13, 07:09 PM   #22
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Wow, you really have bad luck. No one can tell you for sure that the 48v isn't causing you problems but personally I dought it. I've been running 48v thought a Currie 24v motor for maybe 400 miles and had no problems. And I run lifepo4 packs and a 50a controller.

Lets separate the problems. The first problem was the nut came loose and you lost the key. While being a PITA it's easy to explain and understand what happened. The new problem sounds likeit's inside the gearbox. I would remove the outer gear and key. Then remove the gearbox cover screws and carefully remove the cover. There is a very light duty gasket between the cover and the box that can be very easy to damage. So go slow with the removal and watch for the gasket to stick to bth peaches at the same time in different places. Once the box is open you can examine the gears and the second key located on the main gear shaft. You can connect power and test run the motor. Be careful the motor can easily jump out of your hand. Maybe bolt it down if you can. If everything is good at this point the only other thing is the motor shaft (the small gear is actually machined on the end of the motor shaft. The shaft could be damaged but I've yet to hear of this happening. Bob
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Old 07-31-13, 06:43 AM   #23
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Push bike backwards.
Make sure chain is turning.
You should feel noticeable resistance.
Confirm that motor shaft is turning.

If chain does not turn, freewheel is bad.
If motor gear turns but motor shaft does not, key is sheared.
If motor gear and shaft turn with no noticeable resistance, internal gears or shaft are broken.

Lay bike on side and lightly test throttle ... observe.
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Old 07-31-13, 07:02 AM   #24
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When I put the rear tire in the air and test throttle the motor shaft turns. It spins up to full speed. Its only the smaller gear on the motor shaft that sits still, which in turn does not spin the motor chain. If I spin the smaller motor shaft gear by hand the chain spins just fine. Rolling the bike backwards gives me resistance and spins both the smaller motor gear and chain like it should. I really need this fixed today.

Also when i try to move the gear on the motor shaft as if I'm trying to take it off the motor rod it won't budge. Because of this, I believe that the key is still there. When I look in the smaller gear's slot there is a piece there which I think is the key

Last edited by iridie; 07-31-13 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 07-31-13, 07:19 AM   #25
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Key is sheared!
It needs replacing!
Key-key fragments are possibly wedging motor sprocket on.
"Key" is solely to keep shaft and sprocket spinning together, not to hold sprocket on.
You might need gear puller to remove.
"Flaring tool" will work ... if you have one.
"Pliers" sideways, between motor and sprocket, if "worked around" sprocket, should work sprocket off.
Make sure to replace nut, it keeps the key solidly seated against shaft and sprocket. Otherwise it will impact against them, with every throttle use ... quickly shearing key.

48V might be too much torque for the key?
Use only partial throttle, especially at low rpms! Also reduces damaging heat

Last edited by DrkAngel; 07-31-13 at 07:52 AM.
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