Optics: Reflectors, Collaminators, and lenses. Pro/cons please
11-13-07, 01:49 PM
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Optics: Reflectors, Collaminators, and lenses. Pro/cons please
As the topic said can someone without giving me a truckload of info on this explain the pro/cons of each briefly?
Which gives the longest tightest throw? I was thinking the IMS20 but got product overload with all the lenses and reflectors and such.
Right now I have Luxeon Ledil L2 5 degree, 15 degree, and 25degree lenses in front of me. I als have a MEC 1W Shark reflector which I took out to test.
Thanks in advance.
Which gives the longest tightest throw? I was thinking the IMS20 but got product overload with all the lenses and reflectors and such.
Right now I have Luxeon Ledil L2 5 degree, 15 degree, and 25degree lenses in front of me. I als have a MEC 1W Shark reflector which I took out to test.
Thanks in advance.
11-13-07, 06:37 PM
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This is a good topic. We (and bike light makers) use what is thrown at us. All of the lenses and collimator's have shortcomings for a bike beam. If you havent noticed alot of light goes straight into the trees. Not really usable (unless looking for monkeys) and sure to dazzle cars and peds. An intense narrow spot isnt as useful as it seems. For commuters the ideal would be wide less tall beam with the hotspot smoothed out into usable spill to light up side(s) of road for critters and such. Also a cut off on top to keep light out of trees and drivers faces... As diff lock mentioned in earlier thread its not the lumens its where U put them. And unfortunately this lens/optic does not exist. Im guessing you want the "longest tightest throw" because a 25 deg isnt enough?? And your right.. So you have to experiment. Ive found some success with an 8 deg optics placed behind an old cateye diffuser. Too narrow and intense alone. Add diffuser and the hotspot(s) smooth out and spread into a wide short beam with excellent spill on each side of road. It still retains enough punch for 30mph runs. A small piece of electrical tape across the top can cutoff upward light. This is putting lumens where you need them. Trading an OVER intense spot for some spill without using multiple optics/LEDs. Efficient use of light. 
11-15-07, 08:05 PM
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What optic shouldI be looking for if I want not light spill and want a nice hot throwing spot for cutting fog/darkness for long ranging? This is more for helmet use as I have sketchy people around my neck of the woods and want something to cut down the surprise variables being able to beam them at long range.
11-15-07, 09:16 PM
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A clean, tight beam can be had with a PAR36 spotlight bulb that has a shielded filament. The near parabolic rear reflector sends more then half of the light in a tight forward beam. The shield in front of the filament (and inside the bulb) blocks light from spraying off into the trees. The front of the bulb needs to be clear, smooth glass, not one of the molded forms. The 4 1/2" bulb is fitted, usually, in a black rubber holder that can be clamped to your handlebars. Other cyclists could feel the infra-red in my spotlight beam from 10 feet away. There is an incredible array of different beam patterns and power levels.
11-16-07, 01:59 AM
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A clean, tight beam can be had with a PAR36 spotlight bulb that has a shielded filament. The near parabolic rear reflector sends more then half of the light in a tight forward beam. The shield in front of the filament (and inside the bulb) blocks light from spraying off into the trees. The front of the bulb needs to be clear, smooth glass, not one of the molded forms. The 4 1/2" bulb is fitted, usually, in a black rubber holder that can be clamped to your handlebars. Other cyclists could feel the infra-red in my spotlight beam from 10 feet away. There is an incredible array of different beam patterns and power levels.
