Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 43 of 75 FirstFirst ... 33414243444553 ... LastLast
Results 1,051 to 1,075 of 1865

Thread: Total Geekiness

  1. #1051
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    29
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    One more light for the road...

    As you can see.. I am sold on the cateye handlebar / bracket system.. All my lights are modified to accomodate the Cateye quick release spacer 533-8730 and matching handlebar bracket.

    Here is a pic of the ultimate geek bike light.. Don't use it much.. but had fun with it. The reflector big enough yet..

    Here I mounted the cateye 533-8730 space on the underside of the 500,000 )ie 25 H3 halogen lamp) candlepower spot light.

    OF course, I removed the the 6 v 5.0 aH SLA battery and sllip the battery into a used mountain bike inner tube box.. I then re-enforced the inner tube box with strapping tape.. Wa-La.. a good battery carrier and fits nice and tight in a water bottle cage.

    I then installed a surface 5.5mm 2.5mm surface jack mount.. for my power cord..

    Much obliged.
    Nick Lee
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #1052
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    29
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Here is a instruction to construct an useful multiple handlbar bracket..AGAIN using the Cateye 533-8730 spacer and handlebar bracket.

    September 27, 2004

    This is a reprint of my posting back in May for a workable flashlight handlebar
    mount.......

    For those who have been disappointed in the past.. here is a suggestion on
    constructing a handlebar bracket to secure an ordinary flashlight on the
    handlebar -- similarly to what TWOFISH bracket offers but much superior and
    versatile.

    My flashlight of choice Princeton Tec -T40.

    WARNING: NOT FOR OFF ROAD USE... plastic bracket might fail due to excess
    vibration.

    1. Start with a Cateye Micro 500II and handlebar bracket.

    2. Remove the removable locking bracket from the underside of Cateye Micro
    500II (Cateye people call this part "spacer")PART-NUMBER 533-8730..Make sure you don't lose the
    internal spring mechanism for the quick release locking mechanism.

    3. Find yourself a 2.5" by 5" (or comparable size of your choosing) flat
    plastic or metal plate
    of study construction that will hold up to road vibration.

    4. Affix the locking bracket to the metal plate with a screw and locking nut.
    Make sure the nut will not unscrew by road vibration. In my case, I used left
    over Shoe Goo to secure the nut. Sidebar: Another good application for shoe
    goo is for cable ends to prevent from wire fraying.

    Since quick release bracket is fastened to the metal plate with one screw, it
    is important that it is secure. Before I installed the screw and nut, I used a
    small piece of two sided tape.

    5. With the 2.5" x 5" plate in (computer terms - Portrait configuration, lay a
    1 1/2" wide by 11" Velcro D-Ring strap across (left to right) the middle /
    center of the metal plate

    6. Place a two sided industrial strength 2.5" x 5" adhesive back Velcro hook
    tape (same dimension as your metal plate also commonly known as hook and loop)
    on top of the metal plate covering the D-ring Velcro strap -- thus securing the
    strap to the metal plate.

    7. With the D-Ring Velcro strap.. I can safely secure a flashlight, FRS radio,
    Motorola T 6310 has a FM tuner for music), GPS unit, or my Yaesu Vertex VX-150
    ham radio on the handlebar. To further enhance the contact points.. I place
    two
    sided adhesive Velcro loop tape on the back of my electronic devices so it
    mates with the Velcro hook tape on the metal plate.

    With the combination of Velcro loop and Velcro hook tape plus the D-Ring Velcro
    strap.. my flashlight / radio is pretty much vibration free. I suppose if my
    D-Ring Velcro strap is long enough.. I could probably secure a water bottle on
    my handlebar as well. The connection is that good.

    NOTE: In case the Cateye quick release bracket fails -- because it is made of
    plastic and is only anchored with one screw.. I recommend that your electronic
    device have a lanyard, and D-ring clip the string to a brake cable.. so the
    device won't fall onto ground if the bracket ever fails.

    As for flashlights.. Princeton Tec - Tec-40 has received very good reviews.

    Most stubby 4-AA flashlights will work fine. The nearly 2" reflector lens in
    these models are much better than the Micro 500II, the Cateye HL1500, and any
    other bicycle lights out there in the price range.

    UPDATE: (9/27/2004) I now use a Aztec 4aa stubby flashlight with an EverLed
    bulb with this DIY handlebar bracket.. I am a happy camper!

    Choices of Flashlights and their applications can be found at..
    www.flashlightreviews.com

    FOOTNOTE: My 2.5" x 5" metal plate as describe above is actually curved to
    conform to the natural curb of a standard round barrel flashlight..By having
    the plate slightly curved.. it cradles the electronic device that much better.

    If you want a cheap commercial flashlight handlebar mount and many other hard
    to find parts.. browse through www.bikepartsusa.com. and punch in key word
    "flashlight". The end result will be Wald #40 flashlight handlebar mount for
    $2.00.

    Pic #1: bottom view: base plate / bracket with cateye spacer attached.
    Pic #2: top view: series of adhesive velcro tape and velcro D ring strap.
    Pic #3: side view: with Aztec 4AA flashlight with Everled PR base bulb.. amazing light.. approximately 40 lumens -- maybe more.


    Much obliged.
    Nick
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #1053
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    29
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hello again..

    This is an illustration of the helmet mount made from a cut bicycle inner as described in message #1043

    Pic #1: Top view.. with Cateye HL1500.. with zip tie to close the inner tube loop. Zip tie should be cut to length..and the inner tube knot correctly shifted to inside of helmet. For illustration only.

    Pic #2: Side view.. Cateye HL1500 properly secured on the helmet.

    Much obliged.
    Nick Lee
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #1054
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    29
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Enough already! Not..

    Using the same techique.. a make shift handlebar mount made of cut inner tube tied together..

    Also.. again.. MR16 bulb in a 2AA flashlight with two-fish cycloblock.

    PIC #1: Bill of material.. cut inner tube tied together and 2AA flashllight.

    PIC #2: Take the inner tube from the bottom of handlebar.. and pull it over the handleball and insert the 2AA flashlight.. Reposition the handlebar for proper aim.. Obviously this is a poor man's handlebar bracket and is subject to slight road vibration.

    PIC #3: 2AA flashlight with MR16 bulb with surface mount 5.5mm 2.5mm jack at the end of the flashlight barrel using the Two Fish Cycloblock

    PIc #4: Both lights on the handlebar..for illustration only.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #1055
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    134
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Maptester or others. Would appreciate a link where I could source the brake light switch posted on p 19, post 464 of this thread. I scanned the whole thread and did not see it.
    Thanks

  6. #1056
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
    Posts
    1,929
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by stormchaser
    Maptester or others. Would appreciate a link where I could source the brake light switch posted on p 19, post 464 of this thread. I scanned the whole thread and did not see it.
    Thanks
    It's from Nashbar:
    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=

    On sale now for ten bucks.

  7. #1057
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    134
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks, yeah I got that after re-reading. Will be ordering one as soon as I find a hella bright LED taillight. I am working in South Florida now and nobody here knows how to drive. Bad enough trying to drive around here.

  8. #1058
    I am not a car Map tester's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Decatur, GA
    My Bikes
    '81 Takara Sport Touring, Giant Revel 1, Surly Ogre
    Posts
    748
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The Nashbar switch is the one I am using--I just cut the switch and as much wire as I could. And I am using it with my Avid BB7 rear disc brake, real kluge though.
    "Bad facts make bad laws." FZ

  9. #1059
    Was that a...Clyde?!? alwier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Janesville, WI
    My Bikes
    Trek 1420
    Posts
    4
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    DC, any word on the regulator from Allied?

  10. #1060
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
    Posts
    1,929
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by alwier
    DC, any word on the regulator from Allied?
    Well, it arrived today and I was able to do some basic User Acceptance Testing. It's pretty nifty. It has no problem powering a 25watt bulb, although it does get warm enough that I would probably use a heat-sink in a real installation. Since it's variable, it's real easy to set up a dimmer circuit that allows you to vary the voltage with a rheostat. For fixed voltage you just need two resistors.

    Now I have to figure out how to mount it and where to put the dimmer switch.
    Last edited by DCCommuter; 01-23-06 at 10:05 PM.

  11. #1061
    Bring That Beat Back Old Dirt Hill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    I lost my legs
    Posts
    939
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    So I purchased a few new bulbs from BatterySpace.com for my rig. I ordered the following:

    1 x 20w 12deg spot
    1 x 20w 38deg flood
    1 x 35w 12deg spot
    1 x 35w 38deg flood

    They were all cheap (less than $2.50/each) and I figure that between these four bulbs, I'll be able to find a combination that I'm happy with. I don't think my 5aH battery can support a total of 70w for too long, so right now I'm running the 20w flood with the 35w spot (flood on all the time, spot on when cars are approaching or in busy areas). The light that these bulbs produce is incredible, especially considering the price. I'll get some pictures up here this weekend that show my entire setup as I have yet to post them.

    Does anyone have any other suggestions for MR16 bulbs that I should tryout for even more light (yes I'm addicted)? Has anyone tried the LED MR16 bulbs with any success? Are there other options in the MR16 that I might not know about and should try?

  12. #1062
    Senior Member ken cummings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    northern California
    My Bikes
    Bruce Gordon BLT, Cannondale parts bike, Ecodyne recumbent trike, Counterpoint Opus 2, miyata 1000
    Posts
    5,605
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wmgardner

    Does anyone have any other suggestions for MR16 bulbs that I should tryout for even more light (yes I'm addicted)? Has anyone tried the LED MR16 bulbs with any success? Are there other options in the MR16 that I might not know about and should try?
    Oh Yes

    Try www.superbrightleds.com where they have whole bunches of LEDs squeezed into an MR16 package, bi-pins and all. They even have one MR16 package that shifts through most of the colors in the rainbow and a few that arn't. I have not bought any yet but prices seem OK. They give lumen output for the arrays and power consumption looks good.
    This space open

  13. #1063
    Bring That Beat Back Old Dirt Hill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    I lost my legs
    Posts
    939
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ken cummings
    Try www.superbrightleds.com where they have whole bunches of LEDs squeezed into an MR16 package, bi-pins and all. They even have one MR16 package that shifts through most of the colors in the rainbow and a few that arn't. I have not bought any yet but prices seem OK. They give lumen output for the arrays and power consumption looks good.
    Am I reading this right? Do these LED bulbs only use 1-3 Watts in comparison to my 20/35 Watt existing bulbs? I knew LEDs were more efficient, but I had no idea it was by this much.

  14. #1064
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
    Posts
    1,929
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wmgardner
    Am I reading this right? Do these LED bulbs only use 1-3 Watts in comparison to my 20/35 Watt existing bulbs? I knew LEDs were more efficient, but I had no idea it was by this much.
    Lumens per watt from an LED is in the same range as a halogen. The range I've seen quoted for halogen is 14-20 lumens per watt, and if you look at the LED's on that page they are all around that.

    The difference is the halogens are most efficient around 20 W or so, and LED's are most efficient at less than a watt. If you want a 20watt light, go halogen. If you want a 1 watt light, go LED.

    I've thought about getting one of the LED MR-16's for use as a super-long-runtime option, but I'm deterred by the $30 price tag.

  15. #1065
    Bring That Beat Back Old Dirt Hill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    I lost my legs
    Posts
    939
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by DCCommuter
    Lumens per watt from an LED is in the same range as a halogen. The range I've seen quoted for halogen is 14-20 lumens per watt, and if you look at the LED's on that page they are all around that.
    Are you telling me that my 20W halogen bulb is producing 280-400 lumens? I can't find lumens on the Battery Space page for the bulbs I just bought to determine this. Using this assumption, are you telling me that the 3W MR16-WLX3 bulb that SuperBrightLEDs is selling will be much much dimmer than my halogens?

    I think I'm officially confused.

  16. #1066
    Sumanitu taka owaci LittleBigMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    8,945
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wmgardner
    Does anyone have any other suggestions for MR16 bulbs that I should tryout for even more light (yes I'm addicted)? Has anyone tried the LED MR16 bulbs with any success? Are there other options in the MR16 that I might not know about and should try?
    Yes!

    This "Energy Saver" draws about 20W but produces light similar to a 35W. Page down for the 30W that puts out 50W equivalent.

    http://bulbs.com/products/product.as...ucts&class=840

    (It's a "clean" addiction.)
    No worries

  17. #1067
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
    Posts
    1,929
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wmgardner
    Are you telling me that my 20W halogen bulb is producing 280-400 lumens? I can't find lumens on the Battery Space page for the bulbs I just bought to determine this. Using this assumption, are you telling me that the 3W MR16-WLX3 bulb that SuperBrightLEDs is selling will be much much dimmer than my halogens?

    I think I'm officially confused.
    I don't know. What I do know is that a Philips 20W MR-16 is rated at 400 lumens:

    http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/...gen.php?id=400

    This is the "MasterLine" that is supposed to be 35% more efficient than regular halogen.

  18. #1068
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wmgardner
    So I purchased a few new bulbs from BatterySpace.com for my rig. I ordered the following:

    1 x 20w 12deg spot
    1 x 20w 38deg flood
    1 x 35w 12deg spot
    1 x 35w 38deg flood

    They were all cheap (less than $2.50/each) and I figure that between these four bulbs, I'll be able to find a combination that I'm happy with. I don't think my 5aH battery can support a total of 70w for too long, so right now I'm running the 20w flood with the 35w spot (flood on all the time, spot on when cars are approaching or in busy areas). The light that these bulbs produce is incredible, especially considering the price. I'll get some pictures up here this weekend that show my entire setup as I have yet to post them.

    Does anyone have any other suggestions for MR16 bulbs that I should tryout for even more light (yes I'm addicted)? Has anyone tried the LED MR16 bulbs with any success? Are there other options in the MR16 that I might not know about and should try?
    Besides the Phillips you can also try Solux but those come only in 35w. Very nice blue light but a bit too much draw for the 5ah battery I am currently running.

  19. #1069
    Senior Member ken cummings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    northern California
    My Bikes
    Bruce Gordon BLT, Cannondale parts bike, Ecodyne recumbent trike, Counterpoint Opus 2, miyata 1000
    Posts
    5,605
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by wmgardner
    Are you telling me that my 20W halogen bulb is producing 280-400 lumens? I can't find lumens on the Battery Space page for the bulbs I just bought to determine this. Using this assumption, are you telling me that the 3W MR16-WLX3 bulb that SuperBrightLEDs is selling will be much much dimmer than my halogens?

    I think I'm officially confused.

    Go back to SuperBrightLEDs and read through their FAQs and info pages. 3watt Luxeon LEDs are not as efficient per watt as Halogens. They spell out why. Mostly when a single LED runs that hot they are less efficient. Their multiple (up to 36) LED arrays are designed to run cool, thus efficient. But if you want real power stick to halogen/incandescent bulbs in MR16 and larger sizes. I ran a 100 watt, 6 volt, PAR36 bulb light for years til I cracked it. The store had just sold 12 to Hawaiian Airlines for wing tip landing lights when I got mine. In the Denver winter I could warm my fingers in front of it. Used a 13 pound battery tho.
    This space open

  20. #1070
    Bring That Beat Back Old Dirt Hill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    I lost my legs
    Posts
    939
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ken cummings
    I ran a 100 watt, 6 volt, PAR36 bulb light for years til I cracked it.
    I wish I wasn't, but I'm insanely jealous.

    Thanks for the info...I really think I'm going to stick with my cheap halogens from BatterySpace.com for now as I'm really impressed with them over the crap MR16 bulbs that came with the yard lights that I converted to bike lights (I know, I know, I'm working on pictures...this weekend, seriously ).

    And I think my wife will kill me if she sees one more box outside the front door that is from BatterySpace or similar "non-essential" places.

  21. #1071
    Senior Member ken cummings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    northern California
    My Bikes
    Bruce Gordon BLT, Cannondale parts bike, Ecodyne recumbent trike, Counterpoint Opus 2, miyata 1000
    Posts
    5,605
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Try Donsbulbs.com and PAR36 Aviation spotlight. And have $42.00 handy. Instead of rubber try a metal headlight mount. This bulb is a VNSP, Very Narrow Spot Light. A little black metal cap shields the front half of the filament so the light emitted to the rear reflects off of the PARabolic mirror generating a very tight beam. I had stop signs a quarter mile ahead becoming visible. The lamp is designed for 13 volts and to last a few hundred hours. A 12 volt battery will make it last a lot longer. I would use Hawker(Gates) Cyclon J-cells and 12 guage wire.

    100 WATT BIKE LIGHT. RIDING WITH POWER!
    This space open

  22. #1072
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    Redline Conquest, Cannonday, Specialized, RANS
    Posts
    1,929
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think the PAR36 format is a good one for a bicycle. I'm partial to the PAR36 LV505 25watt halogen, about $10. It's made from lightweight plastic. It fits into a lightweight plastic case that is commonly sold as an accessory at auto parts stores.

  23. #1073
    Road Warrior
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    NH Seacoast
    Posts
    3
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi all,
    Came across this forum accidentally while researching building my own lights and am almost home. I already bought the optronics qh-7cc and a battery space battery (5ah 14.4v pre made water bottle battery). swapped out the bulbs in the qh-7cc's with a 20w and 35 mr-16's.

    I want to run both lights with a switch that allows one on, both on, or the other on. Not sure what i need. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

    thanks
    geo

    ps

    also need info on fusing. how large if both lights are on?
    most likely will run the 20w solo most often.

  24. #1074
    don't pedal backwards... MacG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Minneapolis
    My Bikes
    Surly Long Haul Trucker set up for commuting and loaded touring, old Sekine road frame converted to fixed-gear, various beaters and weird bikes, waiting on the frame for my Surly Big Dummy build
    Posts
    754
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by hardride
    Hi all,
    Came across this forum accidentally while researching building my own lights and am almost home. I already bought the optronics qh-7cc and a battery space battery (5ah 14.4v pre made water bottle battery). swapped out the bulbs in the qh-7cc's with a 20w and 35 mr-16's.

    I want to run both lights with a switch that allows one on, both on, or the other on. Not sure what i need. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

    thanks
    geo

    ps

    also need info on fusing. how large if both lights are on?
    most likely will run the 20w solo most often.

    I'm running almost the same setup as you describe. Dual Optronics housings with different wattage bulbs in each for different speeds/situations (probably overkill, but...) and a 7AH SLA battery (the chunky naked kind; I made a nice frame mount for it).

    You shouldn't have any problem using a 10 amp fuse to protect your system. I've tested my system up to 50 watts with a 10 amp fuse and it draws less than three amps if I recall correctly. Make sure you put the fise as close to the battery in the circuit as possible to minimize the amount of unprotected wire. If you get a short between the battery and the fuse, you have no protection and your battery might go off like a car bomb or something.

    I run two switches on the handlebars: one for power and one to toggle between the two beams. I don't have any way of running both lamps at once, which you mention wanting to do, but there are plenty of easy ways to do that.

    Here's my wiring setup:


    You could replace my two switches with two SPST switches and be able to turn on and off each beam individually to get whatever combination you like:


    Keep us updated with your project and post a few pictures if you have the means. Good luck!
    from Minneapolis, with bike love

  25. #1075
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by hardride
    Hi all,
    Came across this forum accidentally while researching building my own lights and am almost home. I already bought the optronics qh-7cc and a battery space battery (5ah 14.4v pre made water bottle battery). swapped out the bulbs in the qh-7cc's with a 20w and 35 mr-16's.

    I want to run both lights with a switch that allows one on, both on, or the other on. Not sure what i need. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

    thanks
    geo

    ps

    also need info on fusing. how large if both lights are on?
    most likely will run the 20w solo most often.
    Go here: http://nordicgroup.us/s78/
    I put my system together following these guidelines. If you want you can see some pics by doing a search of this thread. Btw, with that battery and that wattage draw you will not have enough power to run both lights together for long. It will mostly be one or the other. I tried all bulb combinations from 10w to 35w with one and two lights but now I am only running one mr16 spot at 20W.

Page 43 of 75 FirstFirst ... 33414243444553 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •