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Old 06-30-06, 10:55 PM   #1176
mechBgon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nycballer0591
I Have A Question is there a way to make left and right turn signals for bikes ?
Here's a way, if you have the money for it:

1) get two of these in red, with the double over-under mount, and set them to steady-fire as your taillight, giving a centerline reference point so people can determine whether your turn signal is a left or right signal even if it's dark out: http://www.bullled.com

2) get four of those same lights in amber color, and set them to the 75Hz single-flash pattern. Use the 1Sync wire for the left and right pairs so they flash in sync, and get a rocker switch that can fire the left pair (1 front 1 rear) or the right pair (1 front 1 rear) as desired.

3) for the front, use a powerful headlight to serve as your centerline reference point, so the turn signals have context.

Mount the turn signals far-enough off-center that it doesn't take a lot of work to tell that they're turn signals. I know those are expensive, but they're also weathertight and are definitely bright enough to be highly visible in daytime. If you want legal signalling, you do need front signals too.
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Old 07-01-06, 03:11 AM   #1177
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or.... hook up a bunch of LED's behind an amber filter to a 555 timer. place them on either side of your rack, wire em up to your power system and use a 3 position rocker to do left - off - right.

Cheaper, will work, and easier
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Old 07-04-06, 05:39 PM   #1178
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Originally Posted by vrkelley
OK uncle. The Performance Flare lasted less than 2K miles (less than 6 mo')....the bracket is on it's last leg.. I ordered 2 strobes from Nordic. They supposedly run on 12 or 24V...guess I may have to step down the voltage to get 'em to run on my 18V setup.
Sorry to say the capacitor just fell out of the Nordic after 10mo's or about 4500miles. Anyone else have this problem with the Nordics strobes?

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...TROBE-3A&type=

Last edited by vrkelley; 07-04-06 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 07-07-06, 10:52 PM   #1179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrkelley
Sorry to say the capacitor just fell out of the Nordic after 10mo's or about 4500miles. Anyone else have this problem with the Nordics strobes?

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...TROBE-3A&type=
'
'No, but I had a problem with the capacitor in a Radio Shack strobe cominloose when vibration caused a wire to fail. I just pumped silicone caulk around the capacitor in the next strobe and am still using it 12 years later. Takes anything from 9 to 24 volts. Just blinks faster or slower.
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Old 07-08-06, 12:04 AM   #1180
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Originally Posted by ken cummings
'
'No, but I had a problem with the capacitor in a Radio Shack strobe cominloose when vibration caused a wire to fail. I just pumped silicone caulk around the capacitor in the next strobe and am still using it 12 years later. Takes anything from 9 to 24 volts. Just blinks faster or slower.
The replacement light arrived and its a sealed unit. Can't see how to get that cap off without breaking the housing. Any suggestions?

EDITED: I did a test removal on the broken strobe. By lightly tapping a perry knife between the 2 housings (going all the way around the light), I was able to break the seal without wrecking the housing.

Thanks Ken!

Last edited by vrkelley; 07-09-06 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 07-16-06, 03:40 AM   #1181
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horns... just putting together my set after buying the gear from ebay damn crimping tools... not paying £19.99 for one when ebay has em for £3.99 with crimps!

Umming and Ahhhing on putting a car horn on it. Which horn have you gone for and does it give a satisfying parp! as opposed to a rubbish meeeeeeeeeeeeep.
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Old 07-18-06, 08:46 AM   #1182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrkelley
Sorry to say the capacitor just fell out of the Nordic after 10mo's or about 4500miles. Anyone else have this problem with the Nordics strobes?

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...TROBE-3A&type=
Yeh, mine quit on me in the first week. So I got this one in amber, very happy with it:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003083/c-10101

The xenon bulb is replaceable at $5.
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Old 07-18-06, 01:43 PM   #1183
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Originally Posted by LittleBigMan
Yeh, mine quit on me in the first week. So I got this one in amber, very happy with it:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003083/c-10101

The xenon bulb is replaceable at $5.
Road vibration is a real problem with circuit boards. The new light had no adhesive for the capactor AT ALL. I used a hot glue gun to seat the capacitor and will report back after awhile.

Pete, I notice that your strobe is more for automotive and probably won't have this vibration problem. How long hae you been using this strobe?
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Old 07-18-06, 02:12 PM   #1184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBigMan
Yeh, mine quit on me in the first week. So I got this one in amber, very happy with it:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003083/c-10101

The xenon bulb is replaceable at $5.
Since the base appears flat, how did you install this light?
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Old 07-29-06, 05:04 AM   #1185
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ah yeah... forgot to post my lovely creation

http://www.m3-computers.com/bike/lights/

Bunch of pics and a movie of me electrocuting myself with the battery when a short circuit happened.
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Old 08-08-06, 07:24 PM   #1186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nycballer0591
I Have A Question is there a way to make left and right turn signals for bikes ?
I used four two-inch LED marker lights, and then used a commercial LED turn signal flasher to make them work. Then hooked all that up to a marine-grade switch. Voila! Turn signals!
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Old 08-09-06, 12:48 AM   #1187
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What do I need to attach the Optronics QH-8CC lights to my handlebars? Thanks!
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Old 08-09-06, 05:26 AM   #1188
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I've got some new gadgets on the way!

Yesterday I ordered a BuckPuck and a BuckToot to drive my bike lights. I've got a homebuilt Dual-Luxeon III setup right now, but current limiting is via a big 5W resistor. *blech* It's time to take this into the 21st century! The 1000mA BuckPuck will drive the two white 3W Luxeons, at over 90% efficiency. I'll also be able to dim the lights (should I ever need to...). The BuckToot will run dual red 1W Luxeons in the rear. Everything will be powered by a 9V, 5400mAh lithium-ion battery.

And yes, I'll post pics when it's done.
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Old 08-09-06, 05:48 AM   #1189
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some cool summer projects. Becca's right, marine stuff holds up. I've boughten several marine products myself.

Jeff-oWow a dimmer switch...awesome
M3-owwwwwwwwwwwww
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Old 08-09-06, 06:20 AM   #1190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrkelley
Jeff-oWow a dimmer switch...awesome
Well, it's just a function built into the BuckPuck, nothing special. Still, it will let me run the lights at 1000mA (the maximum recommended current) if I need to, but otherwise keep them at a 'safer' 700mA for most riding. Plus, I'm looking forward to future *ahem K2 ahem* upgrades...
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Old 08-09-06, 07:45 AM   #1191
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I'm finally starting on my DIY lighting project, and I can't find the Optronics QH-7CC lights anywhere! The one place that I found cancelled my order because they said they weren't getting anymore. Does anyone have any ideas for a good substitution that still uses MR16 bulbs?
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Old 08-09-06, 08:02 AM   #1192
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http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...966832/c-10101

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000201440 (pretty sure these are MR16s)
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Old 08-09-06, 11:10 AM   #1193
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How much and what kind of a difference is there between a 35W 4700k halogen and a 13W HID?

How do I attach those lights to my handlebar Cuba2k?
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Old 08-09-06, 03:52 PM   #1194
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Thanks for trying to help, but both of these specifically say H3 bulbs. Anyone else got any advice???
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Old 08-10-06, 05:35 AM   #1195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by random97402guy
Thanks for trying to help, but both of these specifically say H3 bulbs. Anyone else got any advice???
Those are the right enclosures. You have to replace the 50W H3 bulb with a 35W bulb.
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Old 08-10-06, 08:46 AM   #1196
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I know the first one uses the MR16 bulb, the catalog is wrong. The reviews even say so.
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Old 08-10-06, 12:04 PM   #1197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrkelley
Road vibration is a real problem with circuit boards. The new light had no adhesive for the capactor AT ALL. I used a hot glue gun to seat the capacitor and will report back after awhile.

Pete, I notice that your strobe is more for automotive and probably won't have this vibration problem. How long hae you been using this strobe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vrkelley
Since the base appears flat, how did you install this light?
Sorry to get back so late, Virginia. Sometimes I post and forget I've done it!

Well, there are two holes on the underside that take screws. I attached it to an L-shaped mount I had, which can be attached to a horizontal surface.

I also had great success with a similar Radio Shack xenon strobe which I got on clearance years ago for about $8. I think the first lasted about 18 months, and it might have lasted longer had I known how to fix it. I can't remember how long I've had this one, but it's got to be at least a year, and it's taking all the vibration I've given it so far. This model was from JCWhitney at $25, I think.

I'm sold on xenon strobes, they are very bright. My coworker who passes me on the road some mornings tells me he can "see me a mile away."



(Re: "vibration," I think this is a valid concern. So far, so good, but perhaps an eye to shock-absorbing mount wouldn't hurt.)
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Last edited by LittleBigMan; 08-10-06 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 08-10-06, 12:14 PM   #1198
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Folks, try www.bulbs.com for energy-saving bulbs. You can get more light for your watts.

http://www.bulbs.com/products/produc...ucts&class=840

Click on above link, 5th bulb and 19th bulb from top.
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Old 08-10-06, 01:37 PM   #1199
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Does that bulb give off a yellow, or more of a white color light LittleBigMan?

How do I attach the optronics lights to my handlebar?
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Old 08-10-06, 03:03 PM   #1200
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I'm getting a Energy Saver 8 degree narrow spot (20W).

But I'd also like a slightly wider bulb to pair with it, most likely also a 20W. any suggestions for a high quality 12-18 degree bulb?
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