Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets HRM, GPS, MP3, HID. Whether it's got an acronym or not, here's where you'll find discussions on all sorts of tools, toys and gadgets.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-10-06, 02:41 PM   #1301
Old Dirt Hill
Bring That Beat Back
 
Old Dirt Hill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Bikes:
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Blast...no one posts in almost three hours and we do it at the same time.
Old Dirt Hill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-06, 08:50 PM   #1302
Adiankur
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
cool, I was just posting about getting something like that to build my light system on. Do many others use that rack or should I just mount to the bars and forget about it?

I dont know how much weight will bother me at this point, as im already on a mountain bike with slicks. Im probably not going to notice much difference at this point.

Can anyone suggest a helmet lamp wattage? I have never made my own home light before, and am wondering if I should go with a really low spotlight or not, on the helmet. Can you get a 5 wat spot? or should I go higher?

Last edited by Adiankur; 10-10-06 at 08:56 PM.
Adiankur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-06, 11:25 PM   #1303
bspalteh
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Bikes: Electric Bike, Velomobile
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Has anyone tried using a CFL light for a bicycle headlight? I am using a 50W MR16 right now, but using a bit less power would be nice. If anyone does, do you use an inverter and run the light at 120VAC or do you have a 12V CFL?
bspalteh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-06, 06:09 AM   #1304
jeff-o
Recumbent Evangelist
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Bikes: Rebel Cycles Trike, Trek 7500FX
Posts: 2,991
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I don't think that a fluorescent light could be sufficiently focused into a useable beam. It could probably be done, but your effort would be better spent on more traditional lighting systems.
jeff-o is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-06, 10:50 PM   #1305
hopperja
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 892
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'm not sure if this has been covered before... I have a Makita ML902 9.6v stick flashlight. It is very bright, probably equivalent to 15 - 20 watts of halogen output (I also have a 15 watt NiteRider but the battery won't take a charge; it's every bit as bright as the NiteRider). It runs about 2 hrs. off one battery, but I have 4 batteries = 8 hrs run time!

I need a light to use while I send my NiteRider in for repair. So tonight, using a hose clamp, I attached it to the finger of my front reflector bracket. I angled this a little, laying the flashlight down on top of the stem (the top of the light is approx. 3/4" up off the stem, the bottom of the light rests on the stem). I used a velcro strap to strap the bottom of the light to the stem.

I took it on a short 8 mile loop to test it out. It was flawless. I now have a very bright bicycle light with plenty of run time. I'm not sure how much the light/battery/charger would cost separately. I got it, a drill, two NiMH batteries, and the charger 4 or 5 years ago for $75.
hopperja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-06, 07:05 AM   #1306
JSChance
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northwestern Indiana
Bikes: Schwinn LeTour III (2), High Sierra, Supersport (80's vintage)
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I took the plunge and built up a home made lighting system based on some of the info that I gleaned from this thread. Powering a 20 watt light using a 12volt sealed lead acid battery. Rode it in this morning and the difference in light was amazing. The system is a bit heavy, so now I need to figure out an economical, lightweight alternative to the SLA battery.
JSChance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-06, 07:22 AM   #1307
NeezyDeezy
Senior Member
 
NeezyDeezy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 880
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
lightweight or economical - pick one or the other

I went with a Nimh battery, and I can't say it was very economical... 14.4v 5amp $60, but it only weighs about 2 pounds.
NeezyDeezy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 09:45 AM   #1308
Adiankur
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Im looking at going with a 20 watt 10 degree spot with a 35 watt 24 degree narrow flood. The plan is to use the 20 watt most of the time, but add in the narrow flood while descending. I am also waiting on my xenon amber strobe to arrive. I have looked at various batteries, and will probably go with SLA for now, and down the road get the nimh 10 amp hour D batteries, when I can afford it. My question is, should I go with the old 8lb brick 10AH to run the system or drop 2 lbs and go with around a 7AH? I will likely lose 8lbs over the next month and a half, so not sure if carrying the battery will be that big of a deal. I already run with panniers and such, and did the hilly 50 miles at bucks county fully loaded, including my floor pump. anyone think it will make that much of a difference on a 10 mile hilly commute?

****Just noticed that the 8lb battery is 12AH**

Also, as I stated in an above post, I am interested in making a helmet spot. wondering what a good watt is for something like that, and the degree I should consider. I could probably make a small battery pack that I could keep in my pocket for that.

Last edited by Adiankur; 10-19-06 at 09:54 AM.
Adiankur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 10:28 AM   #1309
Old Dirt Hill
Bring That Beat Back
 
Old Dirt Hill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Bikes:
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Alright, so here's some updated pictures on my build. I moved the lights to under the rack and also added the orange bungee which eliminates any rattling. I may try to located the rattle and proper fix it - but the bungee works so well.

Comments? Suggestions to make this better?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_2892.JPG (99.4 KB, 292 views)
File Type: jpg 100_2894.JPG (68.1 KB, 347 views)
File Type: jpg 100_2895.JPG (92.5 KB, 311 views)
File Type: jpg 100_2896.JPG (99.1 KB, 177 views)
Old Dirt Hill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 04:12 PM   #1310
robtown
Muscle bike design spec
 
robtown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sterling VA
Bikes: 70 Atala Record Proffesional, 00 Lemond, 08 Kestrel Evoke, 96 Colnago Master Olympic, 01 Colnago Ovalmaster, 76 Raleigh Gran Sport, 03 Fuji World, 86 Paramount, 90 Miyata CF, 09 Ritchey Breakaway CX, Bianchi Trofeo, 12 OutRiderUSA HyperLite
Posts: 3,668
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adiankur
Im looking at going with a 20 watt 10 degree spot with a 35 watt 24 degree narrow flood. The plan is to use the 20 watt most of the time, but add in the narrow flood while descending. I am also waiting on my xenon amber strobe to arrive. I have looked at various batteries, and will probably go with SLA for now, and down the road get the nimh 10 amp hour D batteries, when I can afford it. My question is, should I go with the old 8lb brick 10AH to run the system or drop 2 lbs and go with around a 7AH? I will likely lose 8lbs over the next month and a half, so not sure if carrying the battery will be that big of a deal. I already run with panniers and such, and did the hilly 50 miles at bucks county fully loaded, including my floor pump. anyone think it will make that much of a difference on a 10 mile hilly commute?

****Just noticed that the 8lb battery is 12AH**

Also, as I stated in an above post, I am interested in making a helmet spot. wondering what a good watt is for something like that, and the degree I should consider. I could probably make a small battery pack that I could keep in my pocket for that.
Go with the 12AH if you use the 35w. For your NiMh get a battery pack, not individual D cells. I believe the packs can provide more current adversely affecting their output life. They're also easier to charge.
__________________
Korval is Ships
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
robtown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-06, 11:56 PM   #1311
new_dharma
\,,/(^_^)\,,/
 
new_dharma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: Surly 1x1 Xtracycle, '01 Haro Flair Dave Mirra
Posts: 869
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
...
__________________
You know you're getting old when you look at a beautiful 19-year-old girl and you find yourself thinking, "Gee, I wonder what her mother looks like?"
new_dharma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 05:11 AM   #1312
JSChance
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northwestern Indiana
Bikes: Schwinn LeTour III (2), High Sierra, Supersport (80's vintage)
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Neezy

You said the weight of your 14.4v 5amp Nimh battery weighs about 2 pounds? The 5amp SLA battery that I've got is right around 4 lbs. So we're only talking about a weight difference of 2 lbs from one battery to the other? Considering it's installed on a 39lb hardtail mountain bike converted to commuter, pedaled by a clydesdale rider, I don't know if the 2lbs is worth worrying about. What are the other benefits of the Nimh battery packs? What do you need in the way of chargers?
JSChance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 07:03 AM   #1313
Adiankur
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Nimh packs are smaller, so you can fit them into spots on your bike easier, which also makes them a little easier to transport off the bike. You would need a smart charger designed for your Nimh pack as well, which are more expensive, but you want to get smart so you dont overcharge your batteries.

They are way more expensive, but there is a flexibility to them. If you want to overvolt, you just make your battery packs a little bigger(by bigger I mean overvolting for increased light), 11 or 12 cells instead of ten. You can also take more of them with you and make more as you can afford them. say you start with 5ah which is 2 packs of either 10/11/12 AA batteries. Down the road you could make a couple more and wire them in. With a Sealed lead acid, your adding another monster to increase it or dumping the old battery in favor of the new. Often, the Nimhs can be recharged more often, but im not sure of that completely. The big thing about sealed lead acid is its cheap, and doesnt have the trouble with overcharging like the Nimhs. Im going with lead acid, until I have extra cash to make the Nimh packs, but when you can afford it, that is the way to go.

If you understand them and now how to run a system with them, the lithium system is even lighter. Sadly, the lithium-ion can explode, but thats just a small thing.
Adiankur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 07:15 AM   #1314
Map tester
I am not a car
 
Map tester's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Decatur, GA
Bikes: Giant Revel 1, Surly Ogre
Posts: 747
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSChance
The 5amp SLA battery that I've got is right around 4 lbs. So we're only talking about a weight difference of 2 lbs from one battery to the other? Considering it's installed on a 39lb hardtail mountain bike converted to commuter, pedaled by a clydesdale rider, I don't know if the 2lbs is worth worrying about.
I agree with your assessment of the battery cost/weight. I am a Clyde too, and if I really wanted to lose the extra weight a SLA battery weighs over a Nimh, it would be cheap/better to take it off me! Anyway, my 5Ah SLA battery costs about $12.38, and the recharger is so cheap I have an additional one at work to recharge during the day. I always have my lights on during my commute, both night and day. After 18 months of use, I am finally seeing the battery lose it charge earlier soon than I like, so I changed it out for a new one. 18 monthes=72 weeks=360 weekdays=360 charge cycles/$12.38=$0.03/day cost for the battery, not counting charging costs. I recycle the old SLA. The only thing to remember about SLA batteries is to NEVER discharge them too much, and to recharge ASAP after using--so I have the recharger where I lock up my bike at home and plug the battery in at the same time. YMMV.
__________________
"Bad facts make bad laws." FZ
Map tester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 09:31 AM   #1315
NeezyDeezy
Senior Member
 
NeezyDeezy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 880
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Sometimes I regret not going SLA, it's smarter from a cost/benefit standpoint.
NeezyDeezy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 10:20 AM   #1316
Old Dirt Hill
Bring That Beat Back
 
Old Dirt Hill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: I lost my legs
Bikes:
Posts: 937
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Map tester, does that charger know when the battery is fully charged or do you need to use a timer to make sure it doesn't over charge it?

I'm pleased with my NiMH batteries, but when they give up the ghost a year or two from now I might give SLA a try.
Old Dirt Hill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 11:25 AM   #1317
Adiankur
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dirt Hill
Map tester, does that charger know when the battery is fully charged or do you need to use a timer to make sure it doesn't over charge it?

I'm pleased with my NiMH batteries, but when they give up the ghost a year or two from now I might give SLA a try.
you can get an inexpensive charger for SLA's that will let you know when its charged and even stop charging when it reachs its full state. Most of the chargers come with led's on them that change color during differing stages of charging. There is much less to worry about when charging your sla than with Nimh. With Nimh you need to spend the extra cash and get a nice charger to be safe.
Adiankur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-06, 08:33 PM   #1318
splat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Holliston, MA
Bikes:
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
OK who's up for being bright than the cars !

a 30W HID Housing ! yowsua!!! ( equvialnt of 100W halogen)

http://www.trailtech.net/eclipse_mr16.htm
$150 does seam a Bit much to experiment , Plus that is a Lot of light , but still the draw to it is immense
splat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-06, 06:52 AM   #1319
diff_lock2
Senior_Member2
 
diff_lock2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Finlando NOT: Orlando, Fl
Bikes: Beater + Nishiki Bigfoot X-29
Posts: 1,694
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff-o
Short answer: No. Invest in some 2700mAh NiMH rechargeable AA batteries (10 of them, to make 12V).
But dosnt that mean your still only getting 2.7 Ah???

Its cheaper to get a lead batt, and 2.7Ah would be a prety small lead batt, not too heavy, and cheap.

I just bought a 20w MR16 spot (12deg), 2eu. and a button switch. Im still looking for housing, im thinking a plastic cup. i found a cheap 17$ charger, and the bat is going to cost about 13$ (lead 4.5Ah) but its close to 2 kgs i think...

OH and i had a extremly hard time soldering to the MR16's leads, it was horrible, i used sand paper and lemon and it barley stuck... and i cant find flux!... lemon works...
diff_lock2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-06, 09:36 PM   #1320
Adiankur
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by diff_lock2
But dosnt that mean your still only getting 2.7 Ah???

Its cheaper to get a lead batt, and 2.7Ah would be a prety small lead batt, not too heavy, and cheap.

I just bought a 20w MR16 spot (12deg), 2eu. and a button switch. Im still looking for housing, im thinking a plastic cup. i found a cheap 17$ charger, and the bat is going to cost about 13$ (lead 4.5Ah) but its close to 2 kgs i think...

OH and i had a extremly hard time soldering to the MR16's leads, it was horrible, i used sand paper and lemon and it barley stuck... and i cant find flux!... lemon works...
you should have gotten yourself a couple of those ceramic mr16 sockets. they make a big difference, as you dont have to worry about the soldering problem.
Adiankur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-06, 09:07 AM   #1321
Map tester
I am not a car
 
Map tester's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Decatur, GA
Bikes: Giant Revel 1, Surly Ogre
Posts: 747
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dirt Hill
Map tester, does that charger know when the battery is fully charged or do you need to use a timer to make sure it doesn't over charge it?

I'm pleased with my NiMH batteries, but when they give up the ghost a year or two from now I might give SLA a try.
SLA smart chargers are cheap--plug and forget. That is why I like them--I just leave the batteries plugged in until I need them. Also, SLA hold their charge much better than other batteries; they can hold their charge for months with very little loss. Lead acid batteries are a fairly mature technology and are used in medical equipment, solar power, emergency lights, etc. Here are some links I have collected:

SLA battery mini tutorial according to me

http://nordicgroup.us/s78/batteries.html
__________________
"Bad facts make bad laws." FZ
Map tester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-06, 06:47 PM   #1322
Adiankur
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Ok, I have assembled my lights and tested them. My switch screws into the back of the light housing and the rubber cap screws into the top of that switch from the outside which is a sweet setup. the one thought going through my mind now is the battery. Should I solder a line directly to the SLA? or should I just wire it and shrink wrap those wires? Also, Im assuming I should, after soldering in the fuse, put in some sort main unit that can have multiple wires coming off of it so I can run both lights, the strobe, and the led/reflectors I have, directly off of that unit. I have seen plastic ones in electrical departments where you can screw in the lines to it. How do those sound? should I consider soldering in the lines in some manner or just use the screws that are there?

I do have a 3 way switch that im considering hooking to my main light, but that would mean more wires in one housing.
Adiankur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-06, 07:56 AM   #1323
Novakane 
Senior Member
 
Novakane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Canada's Capital
Bikes: Sekine RM40 1980, Miyata 1000LT 1990, Raleigh Mixte Sprite 1980, Raleigh Grand Prix 1979
Posts: 556
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
A quick peek at my geek project.

1) Three pieces of PVC pipe fitting, 1 1/2" diameter.
2) Beveled inside on the front edge on the first piece - to accomodate the lip on the MR16 bulb. I used a grinding bit on my dremel tool, and some mineral oil dripped on the surface to prevent it from totally melting the PVC from friction.
3) The back piece (pipe cap) gets two holes drilled into it and mounted where the front reflector used to be.
4) Silicon sealant (goes on white, dries clear) glues the MR16 into place and seals the front piece from water. Replacing the bulb will involve cutting the old one out with a razor and cleaning the sealant from the plastic - it'll take the new sealant longer to dry than to change the bulb.
5) The fully assembled and attached light. The middle segment has a hole for the wire to come out at the bottom, which is fed through after screwing it into the front piece. The whole assembly is pushed into the already mounted pipe-cap... It's tight enough to not need any further attachment, however it would be easy to include a short-screw through to hold in place if this was not the case or one was worried that it might pop out. I put Park Tools waterproof grease on the threads and the edge of the light that meets with the cap so that I'll be able to remove it later and to guarantee the seal.
6) Last shot (out of order) shows the MR16 in the beveled PVC piece, with fresh sealant.

No pictures of the light actually functioning yet, as I've not completed the electronics housing which is the white box hanging under the seat-stays. That'll be hopefully completed in November when I can afford the batteries and charger.

The light itself cost around $15 all said and done, for the PVC piping, 20 watt bulb, and silicon sealant. Nuts, bolts, wiring and reflector mount I already had, and the electronics housing is an old plastic box from a camping first-aid kit. It latches from the bottom (as mounted) which will allow it to swing open in the triangle to access the batteries without removing the box.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fittings.jpg (46.0 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg light_bevel.jpg (43.9 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg light_reflectmount.jpg (44.1 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg light_sealant.jpg (4.2 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg sekine_with_light.jpg (76.1 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg light_placebulb.jpg (24.3 KB, 74 views)

Last edited by Novakane; 10-23-06 at 08:24 AM.
Novakane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-06, 07:24 AM   #1324
Map tester
I am not a car
 
Map tester's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Decatur, GA
Bikes: Giant Revel 1, Surly Ogre
Posts: 747
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I just got a MR16 12 Volt Super High Powered 3 Watt Luxeon LED ($15.99) from Autolumination.com. I just gave it a quick test last night and it was impressive. The center spot is not quite as bright as my 20 watt halogen, but the light-bleed to the side is brighter and more even. I think this might do the job for a in-town headlight. I'll try to get it installed tonight and get a report this weekend--our forecast for tomorrow is for ~2 inches of rain.
__________________
"Bad facts make bad laws." FZ
Map tester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-06, 09:00 AM   #1325
diff_lock2
Senior_Member2
 
diff_lock2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Finlando NOT: Orlando, Fl
Bikes: Beater + Nishiki Bigfoot X-29
Posts: 1,694
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I found a 12v MR16 20 led light, 1.8w... for i think 9-12$...
I was thinking tail light, just gota figur how to get it red...
diff_lock2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:35 PM.