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Thread: Total Geekiness

  1. #1501
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    What is the biggest, brightest rear safety light available that I can CLIP to the tab on the back of a pannier?

    Strobe lights are preferable but I'm considering others,too. I'd like to get one that can be seen during the day!

    I welcome your suggestions.

    Powerhouse
    Last edited by powerhouse; 01-16-07 at 11:55 AM.

  2. #1502
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    Powerhouse--I've seen the movie of the Nova Bull--That really is an insanely bright rear blinkie. Don't know if it's clippable, though.

    for my project, I'm getting down to soldering, and I ordered a 14.4v 5Ah pack of C cells from batteryspace to run my overvoltaged 35w project. I will post some pics very soon. When y'all say "overvoltaged 35w is rough on the AA batteries", this means ??? They drain pretty fast and get warm, okay, but does this just mean they will die faster? Or, will they light up the night in a large ball of flame?

    Stupid question: is it not adviseable to throw in some variously charged odd batteries laying about the house on top of my bike light battery pack (not exceeding the smart charger's max capacity).

  3. #1503
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by comradehoser
    Powerhouse--I've seen the movie of the Nova Bull--That really is an insanely bright rear blinkie. Don't know if it's clippable, though.

    for my project, I'm getting down to soldering, and I ordered a 14.4v 5Ah pack of C cells from batteryspace to run my overvoltaged 35w project. I will post some pics very soon. When y'all say "overvoltaged 35w is rough on the AA batteries", this means ??? They drain pretty fast and get warm, okay, but does this just mean they will die faster? Or, will they light up the night in a large ball of flame?

    Stupid question: is it not adviseable to throw in some variously charged odd batteries laying about the house on top of my bike light battery pack (not exceeding the smart charger's max capacity).
    Yes, for small batteries (low Ah rating) high current draw will shorten their life. For a detailed description go here. For your pack, you are pulling 2.4A from a 5 Ah battery which means you are drawing about half the battery capacity per hour. This is actually a pretty comfortable amperage draw for a rechargeable. If you were using a 2.5 Ah battery, you'd be on the edge. If you were using AA batteries (1.3Ah), you'd be killing them in no time flat.

    Heat, whether on charging or discharge, is the enemy of nearly all rechargeable batteries.
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  4. #1504
    One speed: FAST ! fordfasterr's Avatar
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    I have since modified my light setup by attaching the 5Ah sla 12v battery to the seat-post frame-mounted water bottle cage.

    I re-wired the whole thing and ran the PC power plug underneath and up to the battery power socket.

    Pics will be up 2morrow =)

    Battery comes right out and seems to be held down very tight all by itself..

    So far so good !!!!
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  5. #1505
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute
    Yes, for small batteries (low Ah rating) high current draw will shorten their life. For a detailed description go here. For your pack, you are pulling 2.4A from a 5 Ah battery which means you are drawing about half the battery capacity per hour. This is actually a pretty comfortable amperage draw for a rechargeable. If you were using a 2.5 Ah battery, you'd be on the edge. If you were using AA batteries (1.3Ah), you'd be killing them in no time flat.

    Heat, whether on charging or discharge, is the enemy of nearly all rechargeable batteries.
    Actually, my current pack is 12 2.5Ah AA batteries, so I guess I'm on the edge. I think most AA rechargeables nowadays spec at at least 2 and often 2.5Ah (Energizer does).

  6. #1506
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    boosting my cygo nitro from 15 to 20W bulb doesn't seem to produce a noticeable change. Well, $3 for a bulb at batteryspace.com was worth a shot.

  7. #1507
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardyWeinberg
    boosting my cygo nitro from 15 to 20W bulb doesn't seem to produce a noticeable change. Well, $3 for a bulb at batteryspace.com was worth a shot.
    I changed my cygo nightrover from 6watt to 10watt. In combination with a 8.4v RC battery pack I get blazing white light.
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  8. #1508
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtown
    I changed my cygo nightrover from 6watt to 10watt. In combination with a 8.4v RC battery pack I get blazing white light.
    Going from 6W to 10W won't do much. Your real gain was in going from a 6V (assuming that's what it was) to a 8.4V battery. Overvolting will reduce the life of your bulb but you gain a whole lot of light output for it. By the way, I popped my first MR bulb this morning on an overvolted system. Considering that this is the first time I've burned out a bulb on using the MR-11 bulbs in over 10 years of using them gives you some indication of their ruggedness

    8.4V might be pushing the bulb a little more. Get some spares.
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  9. #1509
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    I found a schematic to a relatively simple battery indicator using a voltage comparator IC. Made some good progress today and just need to connect my battery and the LEDs (found a good LED bar to use).



    Looks neat, huh?


    BAM, mess

  10. #1510
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwoloz
    Looks neat, huh?
    Where did you get those resistors? They look like they belong in something with vacuum tubes. It's pretty cool though. How does it work?
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  11. #1511
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Surplus store All the parts cost me a buck and I figure its recycling otherwise unused parts

    Haven't tried it out yet but will report back with results and final pictures when mounted

  12. #1512
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    One thing, though, switching from a Cygo(tm) halo bulb ($15 from LBS) to the $3 batteryspace.com one, I find that the new one is a teeny bit loose, so I think I want to get a new gasket to keep the headset (or whatever you call it) water-tight. Meantime Cygo has offered to overhaul my light to see if there are any shorts to explain its bulb-eating ways. w/ no replacement, I think I'm better off feeding it $3 bulbs that don't quite fit until the sunny season comes (May, hopefully).

  13. #1513
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardyWeinberg
    One thing, though, switching from a Cygo(tm) halo bulb ($15 from LBS) to the $3 batteryspace.com one, I find that the new one is a teeny bit loose, so I think I want to get a new gasket to keep the headset (or whatever you call it) water-tight. Meantime Cygo has offered to overhaul my light to see if there are any shorts to explain its bulb-eating ways. w/ no replacement, I think I'm better off feeding it $3 bulbs that don't quite fit until the sunny season comes (May, hopefully).
    I don't know how Cygos are constructed. Can you cut some gasket material out of silicon to make it fit better? Try finding it at an auto store.
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  14. #1514
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Hm

    Trying to figure out whether I want the comparator chip running 24/7 or somehow get it to be switched with the lights (would complicate the wiring)
    The datasheet says the chip draws 0.8 mA typical. Small enough to not worry about it? My Fluke 83 can't even pick up the amount of draw from it.
    The LED indicators WILL be switched with the light though, those draw quite a bit more.

  15. #1515
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Hey, what do you know, it works

    Putting it through its paces now. Have to adjust the resistance to get an accurate LED display (have to run the battery down though)



    edit: IT WORKS

    Im planning on now mounting the light bar into a project box with some other controls and my cyclocomputer. Using cat5 cable for the LED run.
    Last edited by BikeManDan; 01-24-07 at 11:51 PM.

  16. #1516
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Making some excellent progress
    Went to 3 hardware stores today but finally found some nylong fasteners to attach my light. The light and bracket consist of an 11w Intermatic LV500 (found at Home Depot, 2pk $10), a bracket I never used from an Ikea bed frame bent into shape and secured with nylon screws and rubber and 3/4" conduit hanger for attaching to the handlebars. Had to go on a mission for some kind of non conductive fastener otherwise this kind of mounting couldn't work.







    I'll be running two of these mounted to the bars

    Starting work on a project box for housing the on/off switch, dimmer slide and a computer

  17. #1517
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    Has anyone tried Fiber Optic lights? I'm working on a project to improve close-up visability for Right and Left Turning cars to see the bike better. What started out as joke turned into a project.

    How to light the whole helmet?

    Ideally, it'd be good to get the whole helmet glowing. Now I'm not so sure. Last night checked out some left over phosphorous paint that is used on fishing lores but beyond say 10' you can't see the glow at all.

  18. #1518
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    Dwoloz, These are good steady fasteners. On mine, I wrapped it around the stem and bored the hole bigger to loaded a toggle switch through the back. Adding the dielectric waterproofing paint and tape also.

    Quote Originally Posted by dwoloz

  19. #1519
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    vrkelley: see my responses in the original thread. makezine has instructions on how to hook up EL wire.

  20. #1520
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
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    Dwoloz --

    I ran a setup like that for a while and I want to warn you about two problems I had. One was that the light has no shielding toward the back and enough light escapes to be annoying. The other is that the brass tabs eventually fatigued and the light fell off.

    What I graduated to was a tractor light housing that I got from JC Whitney (it's in an earlier posting). It cost about $10 and solves both problems.
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  21. #1521
    Senior Member BikeManDan's Avatar
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    Tractor light, eh. Sounds interesting, could you post a link? (not too interested in digging through this monster of a thread)

  22. #1522
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    Quote Originally Posted by comradehoser
    vrkelley: see my responses in the original thread. makezine has instructions on how to hook up EL wire.
    It may be too late to get the pre-made Fiber optic lights, but I can still clone the shape (around the helmet).

  23. #1523
    52-week commuter DCCommuter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwoloz
    Tractor light, eh. Sounds interesting, could you post a link? (not too interested in digging through this monster of a thread)
    I feel for you. Here's the link:

    http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._525434_525434

    (The link in my original post is dead anyway).
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  24. #1524
    Senior Member ken cummings's Avatar
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    Once you have your tractor headlight go to Bulbtronics.com or some other supplier and get a 4509x 100 watt shielded filament PAR36 bulb to fit in the rubber headlight mount. Works best with a 14 to 16 volt battery and 12 gauge wires.
    This space open

  25. #1525
    Muscle bike design spec robtown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken cummings
    Once you have your tractor headlight go to Bulbtronics.com or some other supplier and get a 4509x 100 watt shielded filament PAR36 bulb to fit in the rubber headlight mount. Works best with a 14 to 16 volt battery and 12 gauge wires.
    I bought that tractor light and sent it back because it was sealed - I couldn't change the bulb. It was also too heavy.
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