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SharpT 04-01-07 11:20 PM

3x1 Watt CREE LED MR16 vs 10W halogen
 
Results are in... purchased a

3 x 1 Watt 12V MR16 CREE XLamp XR-E WHITE 240 Lumen LED on ebay $22+tax+$5shipping
vs.
Xenon MR16 Watts: 10W Volts: 12V Amps: 0.830 P/N: 881210 from www.sailboatstuff.com $4.95+tax+shipping.

I have been using the 10W halogen/xenon bulb (30 degree) for a year and a half mostly for pre dawn commuting. No problems, but I was looking for a little more light and longer battery life both for commuting, and for long distance rides 200 miles+, where extended night time riding is common. The LED bulb states 3.6 Watts consumption, although I have not verified this. I am running this off a batteryspace NiMH 12V 4500mAh. So at 3.6W, I'll be looking at 15 hours max runtime. I am curious what happens as the voltage drops on an LED bulb? How do I know the battery is low?

The CREE 3x1 watt LED MR16 bulb at 15 degree was impressive, although I had to take a hammer to my optronics housing.. few strikes with a steel 12mm socket as a spacer to knock the ceramic MR16 socket holder back a millimeter or 2. YMMV. The LED MR16 bulb also has a protective glass cover held in place by 3 screws, which is needed with the Optronics lenseless holder. Only drawback I see is the "fins" on the bulb allow water to enter the housing. This could be sealed with some silicon, but I plan to leave it as is for now for air cooling. The housing is always pointing downward, so water should not collect.

Notice in the photos that the LED bulb has better vision outside the 15 degree range, even compared to the 30 degree 10W halogen. You can see more detail to the left of the board on the left side. In addition to that super bright focused spot.

CREE 3x1 watt LED 15 degree
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL362.../242511769.jpg

10W halogen 30 degree
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL362.../242511755.jpg

CREE 3x1 watt LED out of box
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL362.../242511721.jpg

LED bulb in Optronics housing
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL362.../242511739.jpg

SharpT

jeff-o 04-02-07 10:35 AM

Well the CREE bulb LOOKS great, but I think I'd want a bit more light for commuting in the dark.

infernobutterfl 04-02-07 05:08 PM

Yes, the CREE blub does look good. I have the very same light housing too. although I am running it at 14.4 v with a mr16 20w (overvoltaged). Do you know of any LED bulb (or a set of them) that can give off about 600 lumens? (I am guessing I could run two of those LED bulbs... but then the cost of the bulb would be almost equal to that of an HID)....

edit: SharpT... you might want to consider overvoltaging the halogen bulb (but it still wont get you the amount of run time you get with the LED)... but the light will be whiter, and bright by a certain percentage...

deputyjones 04-03-07 04:48 PM

For the electric gurus: Any problem running a 12v MR16 on 6v battery? If not, is the result less light than a 6v MR16?

infernobutterfl 04-03-07 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deputyjones
For the electric gurus: Any problem running a 12v MR16 on 6v battery? If not, is the result less light than a 6v MR16?


Yep... when you under volt a light, its light is greatly reduced... even more so than using one with the correct voltage. (however, you also get prolong bulb life)....

Think of it this way... a 12v mr16 on running on 6v juice might be dimmer than a hand held flashlight with two AA batteries... O_o

deputyjones 04-03-07 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernobutterfl
Yep... when you under volt a light, its light is greatly reduced... even more so than using one with the correct voltage. (however, you also get prolong bulb life)....

Think of it this way... a 12v mr16 on running on 6v juice might be dimmer than a hand held flashlight with two AA batteries... O_o

ah, crap....thanks

Zero_Enigma 04-03-07 06:28 PM

Hi guys. I've very new to building your own light but want to out of cost of the ones on the market which are too expensive for me. I own a temp. adjustable iron, wick solder remover, solder pump, and solder. I have soldered my own cut & resolder new fans for my computer and power supply fans.

My knowledge on electrical is simple. Battery + wire + bulb = light. I can do the assembly work once someone has worked out the kit items and the math. I don't digest the details when reading a book I tend to be a hands on and 1 to 1 learning person.

I have seen some CREE and Luxeon LED's before and am looking for the brigtest setup. I own a NiteHawk AL-X right now. I am looking to build a small, yet bright LED helmet light. I have heard something about the Luxeon V LED's having the 'donut' issue. I'm looking to build a 5 degree spot helmet mount with a 100% and 10% power mode. Does anyone know if there are any 5W LED's without the donut issue?

I want to make this light powered by 4xAA batteries so I have the flexiblity to get batteries when I'm out in the field or touring then get screwed and have to look for a power cord to charge some power pack up.

Thanks.

deputyjones 04-03-07 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernobutterfl
Yep... when you under volt a light, its light is greatly reduced... even more so than using one with the correct voltage. (however, you also get prolong bulb life)....

Think of it this way... a 12v mr16 on running on 6v juice might be dimmer than a hand held flashlight with two AA batteries... O_o

So then. Anyone know of a source for 6v MR16 bulbs?

kill.cactus 04-03-07 09:11 PM

http://www.bulbtown.com/ProductDetai...=43243&click=2

Only five watts though

kill.cactus 04-03-07 09:16 PM

I've bought a battery from batteries plus and a light + casing. The battery is 12V 5Ah and the bulb I'm running is 12V 20watts.

My question is how I can wire this. I was thinking just running the positive terminal on the battery into a switch and then onto the light and the negative directly to the light, however some people were talking about how I'd need a fuse for my light so i don't catch the battery on fire.

Is it really that important to have a fuse or can I just do some simple wiring?

Map tester 04-04-07 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kill.cactus
I was thinking just running the positive terminal on the battery into a switch and then onto the light and the negative directly to the light, however some people were talking about how I'd need a fuse for my light so i don't catch the battery on fire.

Electrical shorts happen, but adding a fuse can be very easy. You can find an in-line fuse holder that using automotive-style blade fuses (10 amp should do) for a couple of dollars at the auto parts store. Connect one wire from the fuse to the battery, then connect the other fuse wire to your headlight wiring. Your wiring and battery are now protected. Remember to carry a spare fuse (you could electrical tape one to the battery).

Question: without a switch, how were you going to turn your light off?

da07079 04-04-07 11:50 AM

Waterproofing the Optronics driving lights?
 
For those who are using the Optronics driving lights (QH-7CC, chrome version), is it necessary to take steps to waterproof them? There's a hole at the rear where the wires exit and a small gap between the bulb's glass cover and the bezel. It seems to me that, without any further steps (e.g., a drain hole in the bottom or sealing the holes, the light would accumulate water as I ride through the rain (or leave the bike parked in the rain).

infernobutterfl 04-04-07 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Map tester
Electrical shorts happen, but adding a fuse can be very easy. You can find an in-line fuse holder that using automotive-style blade fuses (10 amp should do) for a couple of dollars at the auto parts store. Connect one wire from the fuse to the battery, then connect the other fuse wire to your headlight wiring. Your wiring and battery are now protected. Remember to carry a spare fuse (you could electrical tape one to the battery).

Question: without a switch, how were you going to turn your light off?


Is a fuse even necessary? I mean... Its kinda of hard to get a the wires to make a complete circuit once you tape down every loose end.

Frankenbiker 04-04-07 07:39 PM

Re: fuse or no fuse

I think a fuse, or better yet, a circuit breaker is needed. When using a battery that can provide sufficient current to jump start a car, its possible to melt the insulation off small gauge wiring if/when a dead short happens. An insulation meltdown can happen in an instant. Been there, done that. I initially installed a fastblow fuse on my system. Unfortunately, the first time I connected the SLA battery to the charger, it sparked as I connected it and blew the fuse. Major bummer. So I replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker and have had no problems with the circuit breaker tripping if/when it sparks when connecting it to the charger.

Re: sealing the Optronics driving lights.

There is a rubber seal on the back hole where the wires go through and it effectively keeps water from coming in. The lights can get quite hot and I think any condensation inside the housing will evaporate. The only sealing I've done on my lights is to use two pieces of metalized tape (the kind that is used to seal heating ducts) to hold the bezel on. The bezel has a tendency to pop off. Which it did on my first ride after installing the lights.

Zero_Enigma 04-06-07 03:47 AM

FOr those that know stuff about LED's and such I can't find any more info on this. This data sheet states MIN-TYPICAL-MAX and I'm wondering what the power drain is? I know the min is 350mA. I would like to know what the TYPICAL and MAX mA's are.

http://www.seoulsemicon.co.kr/_homep...pec/W42180.pdf

Thanks.

Frankenbiker 04-06-07 11:44 AM

Looking at the chart for forward voltage vs. forward current and the table of characteristics, I would say for continuous duty the minimum current draw is about 150mA, typical draw is 350mA and the maximum is 1000mA at 25*C.

amjones 04-09-07 06:23 PM

Hi folks. I'm wondering if any of the following cheap UPSs could be hacked to use the charger+battery, for powering, for example, a xenon strobe taillight and a halogen headlight?

http://www.think3p.com/Reconditioned-APC/BackUPS

robtown 04-09-07 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amjones
Hi folks. I'm wondering if any of the following cheap UPSs could be hacked to use the charger+battery, for powering, for example, a xenon strobe taillight and a halogen headlight?

http://www.think3p.com/Reconditioned-APC/BackUPS

I have used a 12v 7ah SLA battery from a APC 300.

sauerwald 04-23-07 01:54 PM

Any of the commercially available Halogen based lighting systems compatible with this?

http://www.electronicproducts.com/Sh...1.jun2007.html

cyccommute 04-23-07 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sauerwald
Any of the commercially available Halogen based lighting systems compatible with this?

http://www.electronicproducts.com/Sh...1.jun2007.html

Most of the commercial systems use MR-11 rather than the MR-16. There's lots of homebrew systems out there however.

vrkelley 04-24-07 10:08 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Ok I've finished and tested the Helmet day Vis project. Not spectular but it works. The goal was to improve side vis while sitting in day traffic.

2MB sent Bailey's runner's LED band and I ordered a 2nd one for the sides. After 400miles of rain, snow and hail, the switches and LEDs are holding up well. The LEDs are not visible in day or night traffic. However the reflective band works very well for both.

Also attaching some other helmet mods.

Wilbur Bud 04-28-07 05:56 PM

Recumbent SLA battery box
 
Greetings all,

I've just finished my DIY system using all your advice. All the "usual" items like MR16 bulbs, JC Whitney lights, Xenon tail flasher, etc., but thought any recumbent riders searching through might appreciate a look at my battery box. Probably only works for an LWB, but there may be other creative applications outside of mine.

Main material was composite outdoor decking material made out of recycled plastic and wood chips, and then I borrowed a router table from a friend once I sketched up a design and more or less machined out the pieces by hand, and it came out better than I hoped. I'd planned the decking material as an easy way to prototype, and then make some final adjustments and find someone at work to beg to make me one out of aluminum, but it works well as is so I'm going to pile up a few miles and see how durable it is. The decking material was great because it chips like plastic instead of dusting like wood, so I could work inside without choking or coating everything in site with woodfilm.

Other interesting tidbit was the dust and moisture proof caps for the toggle switches. No real need to be absolutely waterproof, but they are insert molded elastomer over the regular lock nut and do a good job protecting the seal and the switch. Since this is more or less a permanent mount of a 7 A-h SLA battery, I put some charging posts through the back and just clip onto those with alligator clips when I return home after a ride.

Many thanks to all who posted earlier, all the information in the thread made a great read and an easy choice for what to do. I'm an incredibly slow planner, so you probably saved me an entire biking season.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/P4280003.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/P4060014.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/P4220015.jpg

Frankenbiker 04-28-07 06:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Congratulations on creating a beautiful lighting system. I suggest adding a small piece of metalized tape (the kind they use to seal furnace ducts) to the side of each headlight to keep the bezel from popping off. The little dimples and grooves used to secure the bezel are not reliable when bounced around on the road. One of mine popped off one block from home on its maiden voyage. The tape is cheap insurance and beats searching the grass by the side of the road or getting it run over by traffic as it rolls down the street.

Also, don't forget a fuse or circuit breaker. The 7AHr battery can technically jump start a car and will melt PVC insulation right off of the wires in an instant if given the chance.

Been there, done that.

Edit: D'oh, I already said that...above, but now I have pictures. Woo Hoo!

Wilbur Bud 04-29-07 12:56 PM

Hola Frankenbiker,

Yes, its amazing to me that they sell these Optronics lights to mount on automobiles, and the trim rings do just bounce off in normal use, despite being difficult at times to get on and off when you have them in your hand (and dimples are not symmetriclaly spaced either, so you have to line them up!). I'd read about the trim rings falling off somewhere along the way in this thread but went back and forth between tape and caulk, ending on tape as you suggest, for fear of not being able to remove the trim ring for bulb replacement when the time comes if I use caulk.

I do have a fuse, but you could only see the remnant of the fuse holder in the photo, it's the red plastic box poking through and you'd have to know it for what it is in order to be able to identify it in that first photo I posted. Couple more detailed photos below, and then a non-bike system I built with a real fuse to provide some longer duration battery back-up for my AC powered water pumps in my basement! (but that's a different thread in some other forum)

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...ite/Fuse_2.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...ite/Fuse_1.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...ntLite/UPS.jpg

ken cummings 04-29-07 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amjones
Hi folks. I'm wondering if any of the following cheap UPSs could be hacked to use the charger+battery, for powering, for example, a xenon strobe taillight and a halogen headlight?

http://www.think3p.com/Reconditioned-APC/BackUPS

Remember those UPS batteries are not deep cycle batteries meant for repeated charge and deep discharge usage. Yet, if they are cheap enough why not. Try running a test every now and then to see how much juice you can get out of them. Be sure they will last long enough to get you home. Replace before you need to.


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