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Thread: Total Geekiness

  1. #1601
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    Yes, the CREE blub does look good. I have the very same light housing too. although I am running it at 14.4 v with a mr16 20w (overvoltaged). Do you know of any LED bulb (or a set of them) that can give off about 600 lumens? (I am guessing I could run two of those LED bulbs... but then the cost of the bulb would be almost equal to that of an HID)....

    edit: SharpT... you might want to consider overvoltaging the halogen bulb (but it still wont get you the amount of run time you get with the LED)... but the light will be whiter, and bright by a certain percentage...

  2. #1602
    Striving for Fredness deputyjones's Avatar
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    For the electric gurus: Any problem running a 12v MR16 on 6v battery? If not, is the result less light than a 6v MR16?
    Monsignor: We must always fear evil men. But there is another kind of evil that we must fear the most, and that is the indifference of good men.
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  3. #1603
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    Quote Originally Posted by deputyjones
    For the electric gurus: Any problem running a 12v MR16 on 6v battery? If not, is the result less light than a 6v MR16?

    Yep... when you under volt a light, its light is greatly reduced... even more so than using one with the correct voltage. (however, you also get prolong bulb life)....

    Think of it this way... a 12v mr16 on running on 6v juice might be dimmer than a hand held flashlight with two AA batteries... O_o

  4. #1604
    Striving for Fredness deputyjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by infernobutterfl
    Yep... when you under volt a light, its light is greatly reduced... even more so than using one with the correct voltage. (however, you also get prolong bulb life)....

    Think of it this way... a 12v mr16 on running on 6v juice might be dimmer than a hand held flashlight with two AA batteries... O_o
    ah, crap....thanks
    Monsignor: We must always fear evil men. But there is another kind of evil that we must fear the most, and that is the indifference of good men.
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  5. #1605
    Senior Member Zero_Enigma's Avatar
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    Hi guys. I've very new to building your own light but want to out of cost of the ones on the market which are too expensive for me. I own a temp. adjustable iron, wick solder remover, solder pump, and solder. I have soldered my own cut & resolder new fans for my computer and power supply fans.

    My knowledge on electrical is simple. Battery + wire + bulb = light. I can do the assembly work once someone has worked out the kit items and the math. I don't digest the details when reading a book I tend to be a hands on and 1 to 1 learning person.

    I have seen some CREE and Luxeon LED's before and am looking for the brigtest setup. I own a NiteHawk AL-X right now. I am looking to build a small, yet bright LED helmet light. I have heard something about the Luxeon V LED's having the 'donut' issue. I'm looking to build a 5 degree spot helmet mount with a 100% and 10% power mode. Does anyone know if there are any 5W LED's without the donut issue?

    I want to make this light powered by 4xAA batteries so I have the flexiblity to get batteries when I'm out in the field or touring then get screwed and have to look for a power cord to charge some power pack up.

    Thanks.
    Zero_Enigma

  6. #1606
    Striving for Fredness deputyjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by infernobutterfl
    Yep... when you under volt a light, its light is greatly reduced... even more so than using one with the correct voltage. (however, you also get prolong bulb life)....

    Think of it this way... a 12v mr16 on running on 6v juice might be dimmer than a hand held flashlight with two AA batteries... O_o
    So then. Anyone know of a source for 6v MR16 bulbs?
    Monsignor: We must always fear evil men. But there is another kind of evil that we must fear the most, and that is the indifference of good men.
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    Murphy: Aye.

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  7. #1607
    500 Watts kill.cactus's Avatar
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  8. #1608
    500 Watts kill.cactus's Avatar
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    I've bought a battery from batteries plus and a light + casing. The battery is 12V 5Ah and the bulb I'm running is 12V 20watts.

    My question is how I can wire this. I was thinking just running the positive terminal on the battery into a switch and then onto the light and the negative directly to the light, however some people were talking about how I'd need a fuse for my light so i don't catch the battery on fire.

    Is it really that important to have a fuse or can I just do some simple wiring?

  9. #1609
    I am not a car Map tester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kill.cactus
    I was thinking just running the positive terminal on the battery into a switch and then onto the light and the negative directly to the light, however some people were talking about how I'd need a fuse for my light so i don't catch the battery on fire.
    Electrical shorts happen, but adding a fuse can be very easy. You can find an in-line fuse holder that using automotive-style blade fuses (10 amp should do) for a couple of dollars at the auto parts store. Connect one wire from the fuse to the battery, then connect the other fuse wire to your headlight wiring. Your wiring and battery are now protected. Remember to carry a spare fuse (you could electrical tape one to the battery).

    Question: without a switch, how were you going to turn your light off?
    "Bad facts make bad laws." FZ

  10. #1610
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    Waterproofing the Optronics driving lights?

    For those who are using the Optronics driving lights (QH-7CC, chrome version), is it necessary to take steps to waterproof them? There's a hole at the rear where the wires exit and a small gap between the bulb's glass cover and the bezel. It seems to me that, without any further steps (e.g., a drain hole in the bottom or sealing the holes, the light would accumulate water as I ride through the rain (or leave the bike parked in the rain).

  11. #1611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Map tester
    Electrical shorts happen, but adding a fuse can be very easy. You can find an in-line fuse holder that using automotive-style blade fuses (10 amp should do) for a couple of dollars at the auto parts store. Connect one wire from the fuse to the battery, then connect the other fuse wire to your headlight wiring. Your wiring and battery are now protected. Remember to carry a spare fuse (you could electrical tape one to the battery).

    Question: without a switch, how were you going to turn your light off?

    Is a fuse even necessary? I mean... Its kinda of hard to get a the wires to make a complete circuit once you tape down every loose end.

  12. #1612
    Slow ride, take it easy - Frankenbiker's Avatar
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    Re: fuse or no fuse

    I think a fuse, or better yet, a circuit breaker is needed. When using a battery that can provide sufficient current to jump start a car, its possible to melt the insulation off small gauge wiring if/when a dead short happens. An insulation meltdown can happen in an instant. Been there, done that. I initially installed a fastblow fuse on my system. Unfortunately, the first time I connected the SLA battery to the charger, it sparked as I connected it and blew the fuse. Major bummer. So I replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker and have had no problems with the circuit breaker tripping if/when it sparks when connecting it to the charger.

    Re: sealing the Optronics driving lights.

    There is a rubber seal on the back hole where the wires go through and it effectively keeps water from coming in. The lights can get quite hot and I think any condensation inside the housing will evaporate. The only sealing I've done on my lights is to use two pieces of metalized tape (the kind that is used to seal heating ducts) to hold the bezel on. The bezel has a tendency to pop off. Which it did on my first ride after installing the lights.

  13. #1613
    Senior Member Zero_Enigma's Avatar
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    FOr those that know stuff about LED's and such I can't find any more info on this. This data sheet states MIN-TYPICAL-MAX and I'm wondering what the power drain is? I know the min is 350mA. I would like to know what the TYPICAL and MAX mA's are.

    http://www.seoulsemicon.co.kr/_homep...pec/W42180.pdf

    Thanks.
    Zero_Enigma

  14. #1614
    Slow ride, take it easy - Frankenbiker's Avatar
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    Looking at the chart for forward voltage vs. forward current and the table of characteristics, I would say for continuous duty the minimum current draw is about 150mA, typical draw is 350mA and the maximum is 1000mA at 25*C.

  15. #1615
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    Hi folks. I'm wondering if any of the following cheap UPSs could be hacked to use the charger+battery, for powering, for example, a xenon strobe taillight and a halogen headlight?

    http://www.think3p.com/Reconditioned-APC/BackUPS

  16. #1616
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    Quote Originally Posted by amjones
    Hi folks. I'm wondering if any of the following cheap UPSs could be hacked to use the charger+battery, for powering, for example, a xenon strobe taillight and a halogen headlight?

    http://www.think3p.com/Reconditioned-APC/BackUPS
    I have used a 12v 7ah SLA battery from a APC 300.
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  17. #1617
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    Any of the commercially available Halogen based lighting systems compatible with this?

    http://www.electronicproducts.com/Sh...1.jun2007.html

  18. #1618
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sauerwald
    Any of the commercially available Halogen based lighting systems compatible with this?

    http://www.electronicproducts.com/Sh...1.jun2007.html
    Most of the commercial systems use MR-11 rather than the MR-16. There's lots of homebrew systems out there however.
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  19. #1619
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    Ok I've finished and tested the Helmet day Vis project. Not spectular but it works. The goal was to improve side vis while sitting in day traffic.

    2MB sent Bailey's runner's LED band and I ordered a 2nd one for the sides. After 400miles of rain, snow and hail, the switches and LEDs are holding up well. The LEDs are not visible in day or night traffic. However the reflective band works very well for both.

    Also attaching some other helmet mods.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #1620
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    Recumbent SLA battery box

    Greetings all,

    I've just finished my DIY system using all your advice. All the "usual" items like MR16 bulbs, JC Whitney lights, Xenon tail flasher, etc., but thought any recumbent riders searching through might appreciate a look at my battery box. Probably only works for an LWB, but there may be other creative applications outside of mine.

    Main material was composite outdoor decking material made out of recycled plastic and wood chips, and then I borrowed a router table from a friend once I sketched up a design and more or less machined out the pieces by hand, and it came out better than I hoped. I'd planned the decking material as an easy way to prototype, and then make some final adjustments and find someone at work to beg to make me one out of aluminum, but it works well as is so I'm going to pile up a few miles and see how durable it is. The decking material was great because it chips like plastic instead of dusting like wood, so I could work inside without choking or coating everything in site with woodfilm.

    Other interesting tidbit was the dust and moisture proof caps for the toggle switches. No real need to be absolutely waterproof, but they are insert molded elastomer over the regular lock nut and do a good job protecting the seal and the switch. Since this is more or less a permanent mount of a 7 A-h SLA battery, I put some charging posts through the back and just clip onto those with alligator clips when I return home after a ride.

    Many thanks to all who posted earlier, all the information in the thread made a great read and an easy choice for what to do. I'm an incredibly slow planner, so you probably saved me an entire biking season.






  21. #1621
    Slow ride, take it easy - Frankenbiker's Avatar
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    Congratulations on creating a beautiful lighting system. I suggest adding a small piece of metalized tape (the kind they use to seal furnace ducts) to the side of each headlight to keep the bezel from popping off. The little dimples and grooves used to secure the bezel are not reliable when bounced around on the road. One of mine popped off one block from home on its maiden voyage. The tape is cheap insurance and beats searching the grass by the side of the road or getting it run over by traffic as it rolls down the street.

    Also, don't forget a fuse or circuit breaker. The 7AHr battery can technically jump start a car and will melt PVC insulation right off of the wires in an instant if given the chance.

    Been there, done that.

    Edit: D'oh, I already said that...above, but now I have pictures. Woo Hoo!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  22. #1622
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    Hola Frankenbiker,

    Yes, its amazing to me that they sell these Optronics lights to mount on automobiles, and the trim rings do just bounce off in normal use, despite being difficult at times to get on and off when you have them in your hand (and dimples are not symmetriclaly spaced either, so you have to line them up!). I'd read about the trim rings falling off somewhere along the way in this thread but went back and forth between tape and caulk, ending on tape as you suggest, for fear of not being able to remove the trim ring for bulb replacement when the time comes if I use caulk.

    I do have a fuse, but you could only see the remnant of the fuse holder in the photo, it's the red plastic box poking through and you'd have to know it for what it is in order to be able to identify it in that first photo I posted. Couple more detailed photos below, and then a non-bike system I built with a real fuse to provide some longer duration battery back-up for my AC powered water pumps in my basement! (but that's a different thread in some other forum)






  23. #1623
    Senior Member ken cummings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amjones
    Hi folks. I'm wondering if any of the following cheap UPSs could be hacked to use the charger+battery, for powering, for example, a xenon strobe taillight and a halogen headlight?

    http://www.think3p.com/Reconditioned-APC/BackUPS
    Remember those UPS batteries are not deep cycle batteries meant for repeated charge and deep discharge usage. Yet, if they are cheap enough why not. Try running a test every now and then to see how much juice you can get out of them. Be sure they will last long enough to get you home. Replace before you need to.
    This space open

  24. #1624
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    Such a cool idea! awesommmmmmmmmmmme!
    Quote Originally Posted by diff_lock2
    after reading some air zounds stories and some 12v horn stories, i searched for an air horn... And i found this vid.

    After a few test horns, i ended up with my first air powered horn. The only problem is, i can't find a small trigger valve... but once i find one, im going to mount this on to my bike.

    I used
    some old pill bottle
    a shrader valve from a tire (blow out)
    1.5l Mt. Dew Bottle
    a plastic pen (the body)
    hot glue
    and a female shrader valve from a broken compressor i found at school.
    and a piece of black plastic bag plastic...

    I'm not sure how high air zounds is pumped up to, but i pumped mine up to 40 psi for a test run.
    The clipping noise is after the upload... some compression thing. its a steady toot though. Did not last as long as i wanted, and i need it louder!

  25. #1625
    Le Tour cycle life's Avatar
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    original link does not work
    2007 Schwinn Le Tour :: Cateye Astrale 8 computer
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