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  1. #26
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    Does anyone have a Luxeon I Star they could take some measurements from for me ?

    TIA...

  2. #27
    Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk znomit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unknown Cyclist View Post
    How do I make sure my LEDs are in the correct focal position ?

    Any ideas anyone ?
    With Cree XR-E leds the optics either sit on the small metal ring or kinda clamp around the base. If your optic sits down on the metal ring its probably ok (a proper cree optic will be better). You could power up the LEDs off a 12v battery and appropriate resistor (3ohm 5watt) and fiddle the optic to fit but I don't know how you'll adjust the height...

    Best bet is order one of these triple cree optics from cutter in aussie. For road riding get the 3way narrow, off road the medium.
    Kiwi Randonneurs Gran Turismo series. March 1-8 2015
    Ride a Super Randonneur series in eight days in the scenic NZ South Island and qualify for Paris-Brest-Paris.
    https://www.kiwirandonneurs.org.nz/rides/gt

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    With Cree XR-E leds the optics either sit on the small metal ring or kinda clamp around the base. If your optic sits down on the metal ring its probably ok
    No, it doesn't...it's not even close.....

    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Best bet is order one of these triple cree optics from cutter in aussie.
    Do they do one that is 50mm and works with stars ?

    TIA...

  4. #29
    Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk znomit's Avatar
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    here or here.
    Kiwi Randonneurs Gran Turismo series. March 1-8 2015
    Ride a Super Randonneur series in eight days in the scenic NZ South Island and qualify for Paris-Brest-Paris.
    https://www.kiwirandonneurs.org.nz/rides/gt

  5. #30
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    New helmet, weight: 303 grams.
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 01:39 PM.

  6. #31
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    New Headlight from ebay (strap removed) - I have since discovered they are cheaper elsewhere...

    Good points - size, weight, price, self contained enclosure with switch and power lead (and a luxeon)

    Bad points - 3 x AA alkaline, large heavy battery case, switch = LUXEON - OFF LEDs - OFF
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:13 PM.

  7. #32
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    Headlight claims to be 3 Watt side emitting focusable luxeon

    It isn't 3W, it isn't focusing or side emitting, though the main LED looks like it could be a luxeon.

    Power test on 3 AA Alkaline cells

    Power at battery using luxeon = 4.55V x 0.25A = 1.14W

    Power at battery using 5mm LEDs = 4.55V x 0.2A = 0.91W

    Power at luxeon after resistor = 3.2V x 0.25A = 0.8W
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:20 PM.

  8. #33
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    Note the damaged leads discovered on disassembly.

    Can anyone say if the main LED is a luxeon ?

    Option 1) I could change the luxeon resistor to up the voltage/current

    but more power in = more heat and the heatsink is somewhat nominal

    Also, I don't know what spec the luxeon is.

    Option 2) Increase the input voltage to increase the voltage across the luxeon - unfortunately this would also increase the voltage across the 5 mm LEDs.

    As I don't want to remove the circuitboard/switch to allow fitting of a larger heatsink, I'd rather not run the luxeon at higher watts.

    The obvious solution is a full rebuild with a higher power LED, new optics and big heatsink - this would also need more mAh to run it, where I want to keep this lightweight and self contained.
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:28 PM.

  9. #34
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    After examining the switch, circuitboard and LEDs there is no easy way to rewire the switch as the 5mm LEDs hold the whole thing together.

    After some thought I cut part of the plastic mount away, being careful to leave the spacer legs intact.

    This allowed access to the back of the switch where it was possible to wire both outputs together.

    The modified switch now give four settings = LUXEON & LEDs ON - OFF - LEDs & LUXEON ON - OFF

    So I now have more light without the Luxeon needing more heatsink and without having to modify the board and resistors overly.

    Also, my switch is now a simple ON/OFF.
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:34 PM.

  10. #35
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    4 x AAA battery clips from Maplins

    4 X AAA Nimh gives appr. 4.8 volts.

    The 3 x AA alkaline cells gave 4.55 volts under load.

    However as the luxeon is under driven the extra voltage won't be a bad thing....

    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:38 PM.

  11. #36
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    Battery Carrier assembled and ready to fit.

    4 individual AAA lips allow the joining leads to be fitted, if I had used 2 x 2 AAA carriers the carriers would only have had tags on one end.

    The JST connector allows easy upgrade replacement of battery pack or headlight and also allows me to charge the pack on the helmet, either a slow trickle charge or an intelligent fast charge.
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:42 PM.

  12. #37
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    Circuit board with JST plug fitted and heatshrink added.
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:43 PM.

  13. #38
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  14. #39
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    Because I want the light to be self contained the battery pack will be fitted into a recess in the side of the helmet.

    This means I can just pick up the helmet and go, and not have to plug it into a separate pack in my pocket, frame/handlebar mounted or in a rucksack.

    This is one of the reasons for using 4 x AAA and not 4 X AA.
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 02:48 PM.

  15. #40
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    Final assembly.

    Works quite well, light output is reasonable, better than my sigma halogen and nearly as good as my Hella 6V Luxeon.

    The beam is very much a cone and lights up the hedgerows in narrow lanes, which my other lights do not do.

    Bright enough to use on it's own, but not enough light for high speed on windy roads.

    Runtime should be just over 3 hours, I've got some higher capacity AAAs in the post that should increase the runtime to 4 hours.

    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 03:04 PM.

  16. #41
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    Original weight = 303g

    AUW = 409g


    Aims:

    Low weight, reasonable output and runtime, ON/OFF, weatherproof, easy to charge and hopefully reasonably good looking at not too much expense.

    Also, it was important that the mounting bracket was adjustable and stable - fortunately this one is very good.

    I would have liked a bit more light output and a longer runtime, maybe next time....
    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-11-08 at 03:00 PM.

  17. #42
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    No one likes my helmet light then ?


  18. #43
    Senior Member brokenknee's Avatar
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    I think it looks very nice. I may have to tap into the knowledge you gained if I ever get around to building one.
    Clarity to Agreement (Dennis Prager)

    alot? a lot.

  19. #44
    Senior Member Pig_Chaser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unknown Cyclist View Post
    No one likes my helmet light then ?

    When you don't get many comments on this board it means we're all dumbfounded and lost for words cuz your light is so awesome.

  20. #45
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    Great light , your battery placement opens the doors for a whole new design line of helmets with built-in battery holders. Noticed you ended using a different light housing from your original post. What made you switch and do you have a link for the housing you used?

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Cutter is a reseller for Cree, in australia. They ship all over.

    The MR11 is 36mm diameter.

    See threads in my sig for more details

    I have this optic (I think it's a Ledil, that's what I have) and it fits perfectly into a 1.25" copper pipe cap. I was thinking of building this like the copperhead like this:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=390371

    but a larger diameter. I measured the inside diameter of the pipe cap to be 35.00mm I think this is the size for an MR11.

    Anyone have an idea where to get that board (w/ or w/o leds)? Cutter doesn't have it anymore.

    I built a dual Q5 using this design and it works good.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by brokenknee View Post
    I think it looks very nice. I may have to tap into the knowledge you gained if I ever get around to building one.
    No problem, I'll add some text to explain the modifications and why I used that lamp, batteries etc..

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pig_Chaser View Post
    When you don't get many comments on this board it means we're all dumbfounded and lost for words cuz your light is so awesome.
    It's always the simplest explanations that are overlooked.


  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by greparm View Post
    Great light , your battery placement opens the doors for a whole new design line of helmets with built-in battery holders. Noticed you ended using a different light housing from your original post. What made you switch and do you have a link for the housing you used?
    I'm working on the mark II already, minimal weight increase with several times the light output.

    The original triple-led light is still undergoing construction, I'm having problems finding a suitable mount/mounting point that I am entirely happy with.

    I bought the salt & pepper pots from a fairly local cookware shop.

    I got sidetracked by the helmet light

    The triple-led has 3 x star LEDs, a stainless case and a fairly large aluminium heatsink, so it's a bit heavier than I would like on a helmet.

    The experimental aluminium heatsinks I'm using I cut by hand (each one is a different thickness), so I'm having some more made by an engineering company.

    I'll update soon.

    Last edited by Unknown Cyclist; 09-15-08 at 11:05 AM.

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