Which Dinottee setup used "green" indicator lights?
I've looked all over the Dinottee website for information on an older light setup that used green indicator lights on the light heads. They are chrome, use standard O-ring and appear to be around 100- 150 lumen in brightness. The guy is selling them with a 4 cell and 2 cell battery and cables etc.
The lights appear to have two "power modes" as well as a flash mode. I am currently testing the run time - one light in on flash, one is on "high power."
Anyway, can anyone tell me hold old Dinottee lights with "green" indicator lights are? IS there any other web site besides Dinotte for the owners manual?
Hey thanks for the info. Turns out - I've been all jazzed up about a "good deal" that I did not get.
I thought I might be getting a couple of 200 Lumen light heads, I thought at worst they were 2 100 lumen - but it turns out they probably are the 3W - 80 lumen heads from at least 3 years ago. I did get relatively fresh batteries, the original were recalled and replaced sometime in the last couple of years.
I guess, I'll can't really beotch to much yet, not until I use them and "see" what 80 lumens can do.......
Thanks, for looking up the links, you had better skills that my googling.....
Don't give up just yet. I was suckered into a similar "good" deal where the seller purported that the lights were 200Ls when they clearly weren't when I compared them to the real 200L that I already have. Unfortunately, the seller had my money and refused to answer emails or phone calls. Much like you, the lights, batteries and charger I got were close to new so I decided to investigate an upgrade.
If you're handy with a soldering iron and are comfortable ordering from a reliable website that's based in Hong Kong, there is a way you can convert your old 3W to a light that's functionally identical to a 200L.
Get a couple of extras in case you mess up. Also get some thermal paste from the same website if you don't have any handy.
Once you get the LEDs (it took them about 3 weeks to send to me in CA), it's really a fairly straightforward job of desoldering the original LED and soldering on its replacement. The LED is bare and the dome is soft/gummy so be careful about how you handle it. LEDs are also sensitive to overheating but that's what the spares are for. Finally, the SSC P4 is slightly shorter than the original so you may need to add a small thin washer or two underneath it to "shim it up" to mitigate optic focusing issues.
Thanks, that's an interesting idea. I'm not much with a soldering pencil or iron. But my brother did bench work and had the skill to perform that type of operation.
Right now, I'm just looking at the situation as - at least I have "all night" blinking warning light, that could be used as "backup" in a pinch. I was already using a Stella double AA . And all I had hoped for was couple of more 120 to 150 lumen light heads......- but these things look like they must be 50 to 80, no way over 100......