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  1. #1
    ed
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    Hi! I'm Ed...here's my Seoul P7 hack job...2.8amps (with a little history)

    This is a cross-post from the MTB forum. (I live over there) I bought a MagicShine back in November to replace my NiteHawk 10w Halogen Raptor that gave up the ghost. Since then, I've jumped into lighting with both feet!

    I revived my Raptor several different times.
    -ran the 6v 10w on 9.6v
    -got a 20w 12v bulb and ran if off an 18v Ryobi Pack
    -moved the 18v pack over to a WalMart MR16 Aux. Light

    All this halogen over volting was sooooo fun...but the run-time was poor. Nothing like my MagicShine. (BTW...it is a superb light...but I'm tired of everyone drooling about it)



    Fast-forward a bit...I was introduced to Dealextreme.com. From December through February...I ordered:
    MTE SSC P7 5-Mode torch
    UltraFire A1 Q5 5-mode cr123
    Akoray 14500 Q5 5-mode
    Uniquefire R5 single mode
    Trustfire TR-1200 5x Q5 (OMG it's bright!)


    I had experienced your typical "DX Flicker" issues and a few other things, so I started hanging out at CPF. Hacking into the Akoray and MTE to direct drive.


    Finally, I wanted a light to pair up with my MagicShine...so I tore into the MTE SSC P7 with a hacksaw, dremel, and a little bit of patience.

    Someone first told me that I could run the P7 off 4x 18650's in parallel w/o any adverse effects...so I did it...and yup...too much current. POOF!

    So I did it right. I ordered 2x 1.4amp 17mm boards from Hoffmanamps.com and did a straight 2.8amp 3.7v setup. Works like a champ:



    I call it tactical because I used some PIMP Weaver ***** scope rings and a schwiggitty Weaver base. I'm only estimating the 700lm b/c Mfgr's always over rate these...yet I'm running this at a full 2.8amps instead of the crappy amperage that the orig. MTE was spitting out.

    I've learned alot since November when I decided to replace the Nitehawk Raptor.

    -Incandescent lights requre 3x the current to achieve similar lighting.
    -Direct drive is okay for LED's...but has its pitfalls
    -You can't be lazy if you want to build a decent one.
    -I have an illness...this crap if fun!!


    I don't have a mill or a lathe...so I needed a good host for the emitter that looked decent and fit my needs. I also...just like to tinker.



    I learned "the hard way" that high output LED's are low voltage / high amperage. (but not too high) With the Seoul Semiconductor P7 emitter, you need to try to keep a constant voltage around 3.7v. You can run low amperage for good run time and low light / high amperage for the opposite. (with my incandescent's...I'd +/- voltage to give it more/less output.

    Here's a wiring diagram:


    I decided to just do a straight 2.8amp setup instead of a 2-stage setup. I don't see any reason to run it on 1.4amps if I have a 4-cell pack.

    Here's an example of the wiring...I didn't use the white switch pictured. We'll get to that:

    1x 1.4amp board:



    Adding the second board to give it a full 2.8amps:


    Here's the P7 on the other side of the heatsink:



    I hacked the MTE SSC P7 light about 4-5mm behind the lamp head. I bought a "cable gland", connectors, and trailtech switch from Battery Space.

    Last edited by ed; 03-31-10 at 08:16 PM.

  2. #2
    ed
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    The large "inside" nut on the gland was the perfect size to press-fit into the 19mm hole that was left in the back of the light when I cut it up. I rounded the corners off the nut and pressed it in for a watertight fit. The Trail Tech connector fit right in there and soldered to the base of the limiter boards. Screwed everything together:



    Now, all I had to do was build a battery pack and try to mount the thing:
    I got the pack from LuminousDIY and wired it 4p.

    Similar to this...except mine's in parallel...and I dremeled channels in it to keep it all "flush".


    Now, to mount it...I got a Weaver scope base and rings laying around...what the hey! It fits perfectly! Attach the base to pretty-much anything ya got laying around. I had a couple of NiteHawk bar mounts chillin:


    Switch:


    The whole whatevah:


    Mounted:





    I think I'm gonna add an extension to a seat bag for the battery pack. I have this little triangle bag...but not really into it.

  3. #3
    ed
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    The little circuit boards are only 17mm diameter. Looking at those pic's...they look easy to work with. They actually fit in the tube right in front of the scope rings. Here's a picture of one next to my thumbnail to give you an idea about the size of frustration:


    I removed this one from the orig. MTE b/c it was fried.

  4. #4
    ed
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    I had a little bit of concern with heat, so I added a heat sink from the local hobby shop. I think it's for an electric airplane motor.
    I had to drill and tap the head to attach it, but I flattened out the lip on the head and added some heat sink paste. IMO it's a little uglier now...but it definitely has a bit of character and will be safer on warm nights.



  5. #5
    ed
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    All is well now.
    -2.8A
    -Very bright (easily matches the MS light)
    -3hr+ runtime
    -excellent heat management


    Now I'm planning a smaller-but-brighter 3x XP-G R5 light for kicks!

  6. #6
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    Nice setup, definitely has character. Love the scope rings and base.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Inthe10ring's Avatar
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    sick...

  8. #8
    Senior Member SlimAgainSoon's Avatar
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    Cool!

  9. #9
    ed
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    Beamshots...I measured the shed from the lights with a tape...50 feet 6 inches:

    Control


    Magicshine


    My own P7 creation


    Both together



    So the MS has more flood with a larger hot spot and a warmer emitter. The Homebrew has a cooler tint, tighter/slightly brighter hot spot, and less flood. I should switch these around and run the Homebrew on the helmet...but honestly...both will be adequate in either situation.


    I'd like to take this time to show y'all a little light that I picked up recently. It's a Trustfire TR-1200. It has 5x Cree XR-E Q5's and will run on 3 RCR123a's, 2x18500's, 2x18650's, or 3x18650's in series (just add extensions for whatever battery combo):



    This 50' beamshot doesn't do it justice b/c this light can throw a beam a couple of football fields. 50 feet is just rediculous for it Notice the blue'ish streak on the right side of the picture...that's all LED flame.
    Last edited by ed; 04-03-10 at 09:36 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member a1penguin's Avatar
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    Wow. You turned a flashlight into a magicshine! Nice job.

  11. #11
    ed
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    LOL...thanks...I have a little more confidence in this than the MagicShine with regards to longevity and cooling.

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