This is a cross-post from the MTB forum. (I live over there) I bought a MagicShine back in November to replace my NiteHawk 10w Halogen Raptor that gave up the ghost. Since then, I've jumped into lighting with both feet!
I revived my Raptor several different times.
-ran the 6v 10w on 9.6v
-got a 20w 12v bulb and ran if off an 18v Ryobi Pack
-moved the 18v pack over to a WalMart MR16 Aux. Light
All this halogen over volting was sooooo fun...but the run-time was poor. Nothing like my MagicShine. (BTW...it is a superb light...but I'm tired of everyone drooling about it)
Fast-forward a bit...I was introduced to Dealextreme.com. From December through February...I ordered:
MTE SSC P7 5-Mode torch
UltraFire A1 Q5 5-mode cr123
Akoray 14500 Q5 5-mode
Uniquefire R5 single mode
Trustfire TR-1200 5x Q5 (OMG it's bright!)
I had experienced your typical "DX Flicker" issues and a few other things, so I started hanging out at CPF. Hacking into the Akoray and MTE to direct drive.
Finally, I wanted a light to pair up with my MagicShine...so I tore into the MTE SSC P7 with a hacksaw, dremel, and a little bit of patience.
Someone first told me that I could run the P7 off 4x 18650's in parallel w/o any adverse effects...so I did it...and yup...too much current. POOF!
So I did it right. I ordered 2x 1.4amp 17mm boards from Hoffmanamps.com and did a straight 2.8amp 3.7v setup. Works like a champ:
I call it tactical because I used some PIMP Weaver rifle scope rings and a schwiggitty Weaver base. I'm only estimating the 700lm b/c Mfgr's always over rate these...yet I'm running this at a full 2.8amps instead of the crappy amperage that the orig. MTE was spitting out.
I've learned alot since November when I decided to replace the Nitehawk Raptor.
-Incandescent lights requre 3x the current to achieve similar lighting.
-Direct drive is okay for LED's...but has its pitfalls
-You can't be lazy if you want to build a decent one.
-I have an illness...this crap if fun!!
I don't have a mill or a lathe...so I needed a good host for the emitter that looked decent and fit my needs. I also...just like to tinker.
I learned "the hard way" that high output LED's are low voltage / high amperage. (but not too high) With the Seoul Semiconductor P7 emitter, you need to try to keep a constant voltage around 3.7v. You can run low amperage for good run time and low light / high amperage for the opposite. (with my incandescent's...I'd +/- voltage to give it more/less output.
Here's a wiring diagram:
I decided to just do a straight 2.8amp setup instead of a 2-stage setup. I don't see any reason to run it on 1.4amps if I have a 4-cell pack.
Here's an example of the wiring...I didn't use the white switch pictured. We'll get to that:
1x 1.4amp board:
Adding the second board to give it a full 2.8amps:
Here's the P7 on the other side of the heatsink:
I hacked the MTE SSC P7 light about 4-5mm behind the lamp head. I bought a "cable gland", connectors, and trailtech switch from Battery Space.