ClarkinHawaii

Ok, I just heard back from Geoman--something came up and he was unable to do the test as planned, but so far has determined that a headlight and a taillight, both on max and operating on a Y cable from one battery has lasted 2 hours without the charge indicator changing color.

stringbreaker

What color does the light glow red or white?

ClarkinHawaii

I just went back and read through this thread (a rare occurance) because I had lingering questions about runtime, undirected mode-switching, etc.

Much to my surprise, I see that Colleen has done some beautiful posts dealing with this stuff (I particularly liked the piece of pvc pipe rotated with both the blinky and the ms)--How did I miss it before? All I can figure is she edited her posts (added stuff) after I had already read that post. I didn't know there was anything new, so why reread? I get email notification of a new post, but not of an edit.

There's a lesson for me here, since I am constantly editing, adding stuff--not stopping to think that people don't go back to reread old posts.

Anyway, Thanks to Colleen for your good work! If I understand you correctly, I can expect 2 hours and 20 minutes per charge with 900 and taillight both on max, correct? I also understand that the taillight switching modes without direction from me is pretty rare and not serious enough to worry about, correct?

Also thanks for the response about the zipties over orings, which I also missed previously.

ClarkinHawaii

If you are referring to the indicator light on the charger, it is red while charging, then turns green when charge is complete.

colleen c

Your welcome ClarkinHawaii! Speechless as to what to say but you are welcome again

So far the taillight has been good. My run time does varies between 2hrs 5 minute and 2hrs 20 minute. I got the 2hrs 20 minutes when I did the test in the garage with a fan blowing over it on a hot day. Out in the colder morning air, the light does lose about 5 to 15 minute before the red lights comes on. I've never tried to run it until it totally shuts off. The inconsistency of the time might be caused by the temp of the body of the lights and the ambient temp. Not sure if that is the cause but that is my suspicion.

As for the light changing mode on me, that was a one time thing. I have yet have that happen to me. However, I did bumped it on accidentally one time when I picked up the bike by the back of the seat and my finger might have rotated the head and turned it on when it was in the off mode. I beginning to think that might have been the cause of the mode change the first time I tested it.

I've been a busy bee making a different bracket so that I can mount the light on my rack and in a higher position such that I can place my bag on my rack without it blocking the light with the bag when the light is mounted on the seat. I've had attached three photos to illustrate my modification. Basically I made a bracket out of 1/4 steel rod that I bended and clamped to the rack. The top sit slightly higher than the seat so that I can still swing my leg oner it during a mount. I cut a 10 inch of 3/4 pvc pipe and then I sloted the botton of the pipe to the width (5 1/2") by 1/4" slot on the bottom of the pipe. I did not cut the slot thruout the whole length of the pipe. I left about 2 inch of each end uncut for a reason.

I slip the cutout section of the pipe over the top of the bracket. The uncut slot at the two ends will prevent the pvc pipe from sliding out left or right. I then drill/tap a screw in the center of the pipe so that the screw will go under the rail to keep the 3/4 pipe from sliding out vertically. I then took some old tire tube and wrapped it around the pipe and along the MS light wire to hide it and also to give a good grip for the O-ring. An option is to also mount a pvc pipe vertically from the center of the horizontal pipe so that you can mount light that has bracket which requires vertical post. To do that, just cut the horizontal pipe and glue a tee in the center before doing the bottom slot cut.

I wanted to give the illusion of being more wider when car passes me by. So I mounted two 5 led blinki on the side pointing 90 dregree out on either side. I am thinking of making that pvc pipe longer such as 15 or 20 inch which will make the back end of the bike look wider.

nwmtnbkr

colleen,

Good work. Thanks for sharing the instructions on making a mounting system like you used. I like the use of other blinkies on the sides.

colleen c

Your welcome. Several things I like with this mount is that it can accomondate more than one light, it sits higher so driver can see the light better (such as 18 wheeler truck exiting an off ramp), I can still use longer bags on the rack simply by loosening the clamps and slide the mount back and retighten, Pannier bag still can be attached to the rack because the mount are below the rack frame and the hook on most pannier can still be slip over the tube on the rack, and wearing long jackets will not cover the lights such as the case when I had it on the back of my seat.

The cons:
I have yet figure out how to make one so that it will work on Topeak bag which slide in and out of the rack. One option will be to make the opening wider but that is not good of an idea with the Topeak bag that has the built in pannier. I have thought about splitting it at the top so that the two half can swing apart for clearing the bags and pannier. My MTB has the Topeak rack and bag so it is back to daydreaming on the drawing board for that setup since my second MS taillight is due to arrive soon this week.

labrat

I remember some comments about wanting the light head only (sorry, didn't go back and read all the posts). I stumbled across this at the Geomangear site: https://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...roducts_id=209

It's the head with a y cable for $30. It just might be a good option for those who already have the battery and charger for other Magicshine products.

ClarkinHawaii

I purchased this and it arrived yesterday. Initially I thought I would want to get a second battery pack, but reading up on this type of battery, I see they have a limited life whether you use them a lot or not, so better to use the heck out of one and replace it in 1-2 years (300-500 charges).

The hookup/arranging the wires takes some imagination--

if I wake up early enough I plan on a pre-dawn ride tomorrow to try it all out.

GTR2EBIKE

Your going to use more than 300 cycles in a year? That's roughly 6 cycles a week.

ClarkinHawaii

I don't believe that's what I said, but if I did then I was mistaken

Actually, the number or recharges is only part of the equation--whether used or not, these batteries lose their ability to hold a charge--on average 20% the first year, even if just sitting on a shelf somewhere. (I believe i got this from Wiki, but I read so much info about these batteries that it's hard to remember specifically who said what)

Also a dedicated night rider/commuter who runs his/her light an hour a day will hit the 300 charge level in 600 days (1-2 years). I'm basing this on about 2.3 hours* per charge--you don't want to go dark .3 hours into the third ride, so recharge after 2 hours' use.

*that's headlight and taillight both on max

fiataccompli

I liked the light-only option, but opted in the opposite direction thinking that i might prefer having the option of having 2 batteries on board in case I end up going over the 2 (or so) hour battery span on a ride. ....or, more likely the case...that i start out with a partial charge and need a backup. I made this decision after doing the last 6 miles (out of about 65 mile ride...but only the last 15 in the dark) with no lights 'cause I'd over-estimated the charge on the battery and didn't bring my usual backup with me. Of course, what I'll probably do now is have two batteries and just leave the house with the low one...

ClarkinHawaii

I agree that this product would be far more useful if it had in indicator of remaining charge. Since it does not, I figured to keep a pen and notebook in the rack-trunk of the bike with the light system. I turn on my wrist-watch stop watch whenever I turn the lights on, and keep an accurate record of run-time-since-last-charge. No question that it's a PITA, but what are ya gonna do?

RT

Old School. I like it.

Zero_Enigma

I've heard of Geoman via CPF and BF here before. Never bought from him. I am not too sure the outcome of that comment above as I'm thinking two things right now. 1. He passed away or 2. is in final stage terminal diagnosis care. I can only wish the best for anyone battling cancer.

Zero_Enigma

Is that a cellphone case holding the battery pack for the Dinotte? Front pics?

colleen c

Thought I share. I did a partial search and did not find an illustration to make a post mount into a clip mount, but I'm sure it is here somewhere. I wanted to mount the MS taillight to the rear Topeak rack which utilized a mount for clip on light. Well needless to say the MS taillight was design to mount on round tubing and does not have provision to be a clip mount. So I just made one as simple as possible. This clip setuup allows me to use the light in all my rack setup that has the light mount which accept clip on lights.

I took a 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch pvc and cut/file two slot in it so it fit a old spare clip I had.



I cable tie the PVC to the clip. An option would be to use o-ring. Another option is to slip the pvc pipe into an old tire tube so that it provide some grip. Then I use the taillight o-ring and mount the light to the pvc pipe.



Here it is mounted on the back of the rack with a clip

GTR2EBIKE

I mounted mine basically the same way on the end of my topeak rack and using the same size pvc pipe. I found the light head rotates down just a little but it is not ideal, so I put a screw in the bottom to hold the light in place where I wanted it. It's a great and easy fix if you find your light is doing the same.

h_scott

I was completely happy with the Magicshine headlight so I bought two tail lights as soon as they came out. They're mounted on the top rear (horizontal bars) of trike seats. We only ride during the day and usually in bright sunshine. More than once other club riders have commented about the high visibility of these tail lights. One ride leader said he could see it over a 1/4 mile back! (OK he was sweeping) but it was a very bright day. Another great product from Geoman.

ClarkinHawaii

I bought the taillight along with the headlight and battery pack. Haven't done very much night riding, so I decided to run them during the day, for the dubious safety benefits.

All works as expected, however the taillight does change modes--all the time--not just occasionally. Every time I have gotten off the bike and walked to the rear to look, it has switched modes after 10-15 seconds. I don't really see that this is harming me in any way (like it would if it were to shut off without my being aware!), but I like to think that I make the decisions, not the light. Also, for all I know, it COULD just shut off and I wouldn't know it.

What have you other taillight owners noticed about this? Thanks.

10 Wheels

Yep, $1 from Dollar Tree

colleen c

I think I got a solution to this annoyance. Yes this problem happen to me several time. I thought I had the light off while on the train and one morning a fine but irritated gentleman woke me up while I was sleeping and told me to pleeeze turn off that darn bright light. LOL

Ok please bear with me on these instruction. I have not disassemble the light but I do believe the way the swicht work is that there is a switch in the non rotating main housing. I also thinks that they have 3 trip mechanism that trip the switch at each 120 degree or each 1/3 rotation of the rotating bezel located inside the lens. Each time these trip hit the switch, it will change the MS mode. However, if that rotating lens happen to be rotated in an position that happens to be right over the switch and that's where it sits, then any slight turning of the lens couple of degree cw/ccw can change mode without having to go the full 120 degree. Example: slowly turn the lens CW (clockwise) until it change mode. Stop right away. Wait a second or two. Now ever so slightly turn that lens CCW and you will notice that it change mode without having to go the full 120 degree. So if you happen to stop right in one of those three position, then the mode can easily change from slightly bumping it with your hand or even a pot hole.

Still with me so far?

Solution that worked for me:

1) place a small piece of tape (1/4 x 1/4 inch)on the main non-rotating housing and mark it with some noticable color. I used a yellow marker.

2)slowly rotate the lens CW until it change mode. Place another small piece of tape lined up with the tape on the rotating lens housing to mark the spot where it gets tripped.

3)continue to rotate the lens CW until it change mode again. Place another tape there.

4)rotate one more time until it change mode for the thrid time and place the third tape.

5) by now you should have one tape on the housing with a yellow marking and three tape without yellow marking on the lens marking where the switch will change mode.

6)locate the in-between spot of the three markings on the lens and place a pernament marking (I placed a yellow pernament mark on the lens). After you found those, remove the three tape which you used to locate the trip.

Basically each of these marking are now close to being the middle position of each trip. Everytime you rotate the lens from one marking to the next, you will change mode at exacly inbetween the markings and when you stop at each of these markings, the rotating lens will be at the furthest position from changing mode and require more turning before changing mode, thus reducing accidental mode change from bumps and such. I attached a picture showing the tape and the marking. What you don't see in the picture is the other two markings on the lens because of the angle I took the picture. Sorry for the bad image but it was from my Iphone.

Confuse yet? Or did this make sense?

ClarkinHawaii

I love reading your posts! You are so thorough and painstaking. Yes, very easy to understand and I will try it just as you describe. Thinking along the same lines as you, when I noticed it changing yesterday, I adjusted it so that it was well past the "change point" and it still changed. Also, my bezel is quite tight and I'm sure it does not turn by itself, although a good bump could certainly jar the mechanism enough to cause something to happen. Anyway, I'll try it and see. Thank you!!!

ClarkinHawaii

Because I wanted to see how much time was left on the battery, I parked the bike in my living room in front of a pedestal fan and turned on the lights.
When I turn the taillight bezel to the first setting after stop (all leds light up in blinking mode) here's what happens:

lights blink in normal way for 50 short blinks,
then it switches to a different blinking mode for 8 long blinks,
then 50 short blinks,
then 8 long blinks,
and so on.
The long blinks and the short blinks are all performed with all LEDs lit, so I'm getting max visibility. I actually like the change in patterns--breaks up the monotony in case some driver behind me gets hypnotized staring at my light, this will jar him awake before he runs over me.

So it's programmed to do that. Try yours and see.

mtalinm

just strap it around your rear fender, as shown002..jpg

I happen to have plenty of clearance, though that could certainly be an issue with other tires/fenders.

will confess to not having road tested this, but it looks pretty good. and the light faces slightly upward.