Possible fix for Radbot 1000
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Possible fix for Radbot 1000
Over the years I have owned 9 taillights that turned off over a bump. Thanks to the forums I know the Radbot 1000 could do this too.
I fixed four of my old bump shut off lights. One thing they had in common was that the batteries bounced and lost contact for just a fraction of a second. I put foam under the spring coils that held the battery to strengthen the springs on some, but most had batteries that with just a couple of wraps of tape, would be a tight fit in place and would not bounce anymore.
Right out of the box if I smacked my new radbot against the heel of one hand I could get it to shut off. So.............
There is a thin wall on one half of the radbot that goes across the middle of the batteries when the two halves of the light are screwed together. I cut a small section of a thin road bike tube and put it across the batteries where the wall hits the batteries to pinch them very tightly when the light is assembled. I have not been able to get the light to go off by hitting it, but I have not used it on a bike yet. I will try it tomorrow on a bike with 23mm 130 psi tires. Maybe it is fixed but I really need to put some miles on it to be sure.
I fixed four of my old bump shut off lights. One thing they had in common was that the batteries bounced and lost contact for just a fraction of a second. I put foam under the spring coils that held the battery to strengthen the springs on some, but most had batteries that with just a couple of wraps of tape, would be a tight fit in place and would not bounce anymore.
Right out of the box if I smacked my new radbot against the heel of one hand I could get it to shut off. So.............
There is a thin wall on one half of the radbot that goes across the middle of the batteries when the two halves of the light are screwed together. I cut a small section of a thin road bike tube and put it across the batteries where the wall hits the batteries to pinch them very tightly when the light is assembled. I have not been able to get the light to go off by hitting it, but I have not used it on a bike yet. I will try it tomorrow on a bike with 23mm 130 psi tires. Maybe it is fixed but I really need to put some miles on it to be sure.
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Over the years I have owned 9 taillights that turned off over a bump. Thanks to the forums I know the Radbot 1000 could do this too.
I fixed four of my old bump shut off lights. One thing they had in common was that the batteries bounced and lost contact for just a fraction of a second. I put foam under the spring coils that held the battery to strengthen the springs on some, but most had batteries that with just a couple of wraps of tape, would be a tight fit in place and would not bounce anymore.
Right out of the box if I smacked my new radbot against the heel of one hand I could get it to shut off. So.............
There is a thin wall on one half of the radbot that goes across the middle of the batteries when the two halves of the light are screwed together. I cut a small section of a thin road bike tube and put it across the batteries where the wall hits the batteries to pinch them very tightly when the light is assembled. I have not been able to get the light to go off by hitting it, but I have not used it on a bike yet. I will try it tomorrow on a bike with 23mm 130 psi tires. Maybe it is fixed but I really need to put some miles on it to be sure.
I fixed four of my old bump shut off lights. One thing they had in common was that the batteries bounced and lost contact for just a fraction of a second. I put foam under the spring coils that held the battery to strengthen the springs on some, but most had batteries that with just a couple of wraps of tape, would be a tight fit in place and would not bounce anymore.
Right out of the box if I smacked my new radbot against the heel of one hand I could get it to shut off. So.............
There is a thin wall on one half of the radbot that goes across the middle of the batteries when the two halves of the light are screwed together. I cut a small section of a thin road bike tube and put it across the batteries where the wall hits the batteries to pinch them very tightly when the light is assembled. I have not been able to get the light to go off by hitting it, but I have not used it on a bike yet. I will try it tomorrow on a bike with 23mm 130 psi tires. Maybe it is fixed but I really need to put some miles on it to be sure.
I have two of the new ones (bought from two different suppliers) , and neither turns itself off, and I go over cobblestone streets everyday with 700x28 tires pumped to 120psi.
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The early versions of the Rabbot had this problem. There is an updated version. Contact PDW and they'll send you some new contacts to fix it your older one.
I have two of the new ones (bought from two different suppliers) , and neither turns itself off, and I go over cobblestone streets everyday with 700x28 tires pumped to 120psi.
I have two of the new ones (bought from two different suppliers) , and neither turns itself off, and I go over cobblestone streets everyday with 700x28 tires pumped to 120psi.
Thanks!
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A few weeks, but they would definetlyy turn off on the cobblestones after only a few seconds if they were defective. They are huge a brutal stones.
Before I used them on my bike I also banged the billy hell out of them, and they are solid.
This post might be of use to you.
Before I used them on my bike I also banged the billy hell out of them, and they are solid.
This post might be of use to you.
First off mechBgon, we'd be more than happy to fix or replace your light. All you need to do is send an email to info@ridepdw.com or give us a jingle at 503.234.7257. We stand behind everything we make, so we'll fix or replace any Radbots that have issues.
That being said, We've discovered a problem affecting some of the first batch of RADBOT 1000 and 500 models of taillight. Because the mold for the stainless battery/circuit board contacts was a little off, the connection between the contacts and circuit board isn't solid. This can result in a disrupted connection causing the light to switch off.
We've already modified the mold, and changed the contact spec for the next batch of lights to correct the issue. That batch is being made right now, and will be available in mid-Jan. We will have replacement contacts for the first batch of lights available at the end of December. We've also changed the switch slightly so that you'll need to hold it down for a second or two to switch it on and off. This will negate the need to ship the light with the pull tab which we feel can make the contact issue worse.
Shops and consumers who have a naughty RADBOT can let us know and we'll mail out replacements. We will also post a Vimeo video of how to swap out the contacts shortly.
That being said, We've discovered a problem affecting some of the first batch of RADBOT 1000 and 500 models of taillight. Because the mold for the stainless battery/circuit board contacts was a little off, the connection between the contacts and circuit board isn't solid. This can result in a disrupted connection causing the light to switch off.
We've already modified the mold, and changed the contact spec for the next batch of lights to correct the issue. That batch is being made right now, and will be available in mid-Jan. We will have replacement contacts for the first batch of lights available at the end of December. We've also changed the switch slightly so that you'll need to hold it down for a second or two to switch it on and off. This will negate the need to ship the light with the pull tab which we feel can make the contact issue worse.
Shops and consumers who have a naughty RADBOT can let us know and we'll mail out replacements. We will also post a Vimeo video of how to swap out the contacts shortly.
Last edited by Cyclist0383; 05-30-10 at 06:41 AM.
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A few weeks, but they would definetlyy turn off on the cobblestones after only a few seconds if they were defective. They are huge a brutal stones.
Before I used them on my bike I also banged the billy hell out of them, and they are solid.
This post might be of use to you.
Before I used them on my bike I also banged the billy hell out of them, and they are solid.
This post might be of use to you.
I can't imaging anythying worse for a light than cobblestones. That's probably the ultimate test. But since this is a high volume product, they may not all be the same. I did take mine today on my bumpiest road bike on some bad roads with no problems so far. If I have any problems I'll post about it. I rode with 10 others today, most of the time there was a recumbent one bike back from me, his head was in line with the light. He kept teasing me about damaging his eyes. I like the way this light works during the day! My friend on the recumbent not so much.
His head is about the same height as a driver in most typical sedans. That's encouraging.
He bought one too.
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