wireless cycloputer and magicshine headlight
#1
stringbreaker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: wa. State
Posts: 4,463
Bikes: specialized crossroads hybrid 2006 Raleigh Cadent 2 1971 Schwinn Varsity, 1972 Schwinn Continental, 1977 Schwinn Volare (frame)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
wireless cycloputer and magicshine headlight
My cycloputer does not work when I'm using my magicshine light. I moved the light to the opposite side of the handlebar and the cycloputer worked fine till I added the Magicshine tailight. Am I going to have to live with this or is there a way to sheild either the light or the cycloputer. The puter works fine when the light isn't in use so daytime rides are no problem.
__________________
(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
#2
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: Giant Defy, Trek 1.7c, BMC GF02, Fuji Tahoe, Scott Sub 35, Kona Rove, Trek Verve+2
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 551 Post(s)
Liked 722 Times
in
366 Posts
My cycloputer does not work when I'm using my magicshine light. I moved the light to the opposite side of the handlebar and the cycloputer worked fine till I added the Magicshine tailight. Am I going to have to live with this or is there a way to sheild either the light or the cycloputer. The puter works fine when the light isn't in use so daytime rides are no problem.
#3
Long Run Nick
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 72
Bikes: Trek FX 7.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My cycloputer does not work when I'm using my magicshine light. I moved the light to the opposite side of the handlebar and the cycloputer worked fine till I added the Magicshine tailight. Am I going to have to live with this or is there a way to sheild either the light or the cycloputer. The puter works fine when the light isn't in use so daytime rides are no problem.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 102
Bikes: Sun X3-SX recumbent trike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I used to run CB/Ham radio and grounding was a big factor to stop interference, better radio performance, etc. Maybe you could try a ground wire from the lights to the frame of your bike. Use wire with as much "surface area" as you have. In other words, MANY fine strands of wire per gauge.
Are your lights ran off of one battery and you have to run wires from it to the lights? If so, wire acts like an antenna and is picking up RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) from the computer, or probably more so, the sending unit from your wheel to computer. Get some shielded (+) and (-) wire and run from the battery to the lights. You can also go to Radio Shack and get some chokes to wrap the wires around that will help the wires stop acting like antennas. You can change the length of the wires so they are not such a good antenna length for the frequency the computer/unit is putting out...kinda like tuning to a different frequency on your radio. RFI can be a nightmare trying this and that!!!
Anyway, let me know.
Mr Gnome
Are your lights ran off of one battery and you have to run wires from it to the lights? If so, wire acts like an antenna and is picking up RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) from the computer, or probably more so, the sending unit from your wheel to computer. Get some shielded (+) and (-) wire and run from the battery to the lights. You can also go to Radio Shack and get some chokes to wrap the wires around that will help the wires stop acting like antennas. You can change the length of the wires so they are not such a good antenna length for the frequency the computer/unit is putting out...kinda like tuning to a different frequency on your radio. RFI can be a nightmare trying this and that!!!
Anyway, let me know.
Mr Gnome
#5
Long Run Nick
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 72
Bikes: Trek FX 7.3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I used to run CB/Ham radio and grounding was a big factor to stop interference, better radio performance, etc. Maybe you could try a ground wire from the lights to the frame of your bike. Use wire with as much "surface area" as you have. In other words, MANY fine strands of wire per gauge.
Are your lights ran off of one battery and you have to run wires from it to the lights? If so, wire acts like an antenna and is picking up RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) from the computer, or probably more so, the sending unit from your wheel to computer. Get some shielded (+) and (-) wire and run from the battery to the lights. You can also go to Radio Shack and get some chokes to wrap the wires around that will help the wires stop acting like antennas. You can change the length of the wires so they are not such a good antenna length for the frequency the computer/unit is putting out...kinda like tuning to a different frequency on your radio. RFI can be a nightmare trying this and that!!!
Anyway, let me know.
Mr Gnome
Are your lights ran off of one battery and you have to run wires from it to the lights? If so, wire acts like an antenna and is picking up RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) from the computer, or probably more so, the sending unit from your wheel to computer. Get some shielded (+) and (-) wire and run from the battery to the lights. You can also go to Radio Shack and get some chokes to wrap the wires around that will help the wires stop acting like antennas. You can change the length of the wires so they are not such a good antenna length for the frequency the computer/unit is putting out...kinda like tuning to a different frequency on your radio. RFI can be a nightmare trying this and that!!!
Anyway, let me know.
Mr Gnome
#6
stringbreaker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: wa. State
Posts: 4,463
Bikes: specialized crossroads hybrid 2006 Raleigh Cadent 2 1971 Schwinn Varsity, 1972 Schwinn Continental, 1977 Schwinn Volare (frame)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Sounds like too much trouble I can live with it. The puter works fine when I don't run the lights so no biggie. I kinda thought that might be the problem. thanks for the info and if I decide to I now know how to take care of it.
__________________
(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
(Life is too short to play crappy guitars) 2006 Raleigh Cadent 3.0, 1977 Schwinn Volare, 2010 Windsor tourist. ( I didn't fall , I attacked the floor)
#7
I am a caffine girl
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,815
Bikes: 2012 Stumpjumper FSR Comp...2010 Scott CR1 CF...2007 Novara FS Float2.0...2009 Specialized Hardrock Disc...2009 Schwinn Le Tour GSr
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
From my limited electronic schooling, the ferrite choke idea of Mr Gnome sound like a winner. It's basically the same thing as to that big bulge thing you see at the end of computer cable such as the monitor or printer cable. The ferrite choke will cut out the electrical noise from the battery pack which is produce by the current draw of the MS light. If I'm not mistaken, the choke that Mr Gnome might be similar to this.
Another possible solution might be slipping part or all of the wire of the battery cable in some type of braided shield sleeve similar to this. Just make sure that only one end of the sleeve is grounded to the bike frame. These sleeve can be bought at surplus electronic store for a lower price.
One more note of cutting down EMI noise, check to see if any of your cable are in loops like a circle or even twisted. Loop created inductance and can act like attenna for receiving, transmitting. Heck it might even make a tuned coupled circuit
I got this feeling as more high tech lighting for bicycle are being design with these PWM for better control and current draw, the more we will see interference between devices in the future. I'm somewhat surprise we have yet hear some of these noise being pickup from our MP3 player or FM reciever which some of us wear while riding.
Another possible solution might be slipping part or all of the wire of the battery cable in some type of braided shield sleeve similar to this. Just make sure that only one end of the sleeve is grounded to the bike frame. These sleeve can be bought at surplus electronic store for a lower price.
One more note of cutting down EMI noise, check to see if any of your cable are in loops like a circle or even twisted. Loop created inductance and can act like attenna for receiving, transmitting. Heck it might even make a tuned coupled circuit
I got this feeling as more high tech lighting for bicycle are being design with these PWM for better control and current draw, the more we will see interference between devices in the future. I'm somewhat surprise we have yet hear some of these noise being pickup from our MP3 player or FM reciever which some of us wear while riding.
Last edited by colleen c; 06-27-10 at 05:00 PM. Reason: spelling of ANT and emf to EMI
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 102
Bikes: Sun X3-SX recumbent trike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Long Run Nick,
As Colleen said, the full name is "ferrite choke." Just ask for them at Radio Shack...or maybe even just wrapping the wires around a bolt, or something like that, could also do it.
If you do need to change the wires to shielded you could use small diameter coax. LMR makes good 100% shielded coax. If I remember right, LMR #240 is what I used for my radios in the big rig. I ran some good sized amps putting out 700 watts. Between grounding, the coax, and of course set up right, there was no RFI into the trucks computer, AM/FM radio, etc. You would want to only use the center of the coax for both the (+) (-) and use the braided shield to ground somewhere on your bike.
Maybe some of you have heard of Wolf Man Jack? He was a DJ back in the 50's-60's. He broadcasted from across the boarder where he could do whatever he wanted. He ran so many watts that if conditions were right, he could be heard over barbed wire fences, toasters, whatever in the states. Other than just the watts, these things are all acting like antennas.
Mr Gnome
As Colleen said, the full name is "ferrite choke." Just ask for them at Radio Shack...or maybe even just wrapping the wires around a bolt, or something like that, could also do it.
If you do need to change the wires to shielded you could use small diameter coax. LMR makes good 100% shielded coax. If I remember right, LMR #240 is what I used for my radios in the big rig. I ran some good sized amps putting out 700 watts. Between grounding, the coax, and of course set up right, there was no RFI into the trucks computer, AM/FM radio, etc. You would want to only use the center of the coax for both the (+) (-) and use the braided shield to ground somewhere on your bike.
Maybe some of you have heard of Wolf Man Jack? He was a DJ back in the 50's-60's. He broadcasted from across the boarder where he could do whatever he wanted. He ran so many watts that if conditions were right, he could be heard over barbed wire fences, toasters, whatever in the states. Other than just the watts, these things are all acting like antennas.
Mr Gnome
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 885
Bikes: 2011 Trek SOHO Deluxe, and 2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have the problem with my Avocet wireless computer, but the Garmin Forerunner 305 is not bothered by my MagicShine. I will try a choke or a shield. I also ordered a helmet mount for the MagicShine and will put the battery in my CamelBak.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sullalto
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets
2
05-07-14 05:42 PM
downwinded
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets
24
01-06-13 11:18 AM
weshigh
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets
9
06-15-12 10:25 PM
Vicelord
General Cycling Discussion
10
07-24-11 09:06 AM
clarknick67
Bicycle Mechanics
4
10-25-10 04:06 AM