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wireless cycloputer and magicshine headlight

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Old 06-26-10, 09:09 PM
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wireless cycloputer and magicshine headlight

My cycloputer does not work when I'm using my magicshine light. I moved the light to the opposite side of the handlebar and the cycloputer worked fine till I added the Magicshine tailight. Am I going to have to live with this or is there a way to sheild either the light or the cycloputer. The puter works fine when the light isn't in use so daytime rides are no problem.
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Old 06-26-10, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by stringbreaker
My cycloputer does not work when I'm using my magicshine light. I moved the light to the opposite side of the handlebar and the cycloputer worked fine till I added the Magicshine tailight. Am I going to have to live with this or is there a way to sheild either the light or the cycloputer. The puter works fine when the light isn't in use so daytime rides are no problem.
Its noise from the battery leads. You could try re-routing the lead back to the tail light, or get a wired computer.
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Old 06-27-10, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by stringbreaker
My cycloputer does not work when I'm using my magicshine light. I moved the light to the opposite side of the handlebar and the cycloputer worked fine till I added the Magicshine tailight. Am I going to have to live with this or is there a way to sheild either the light or the cycloputer. The puter works fine when the light isn't in use so daytime rides are no problem.
Had a similar issue. My solution was to use the extended cable and put the battery in my seat bag. Voila, no more interference. My guess is if the battery is too close to your wireless 'puter it disrupts it. That is only a guess. Though I did play Thomas Edison in a high school play many, many(49) yrs ago. Nick
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Old 06-27-10, 01:58 PM
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I used to run CB/Ham radio and grounding was a big factor to stop interference, better radio performance, etc. Maybe you could try a ground wire from the lights to the frame of your bike. Use wire with as much "surface area" as you have. In other words, MANY fine strands of wire per gauge.

Are your lights ran off of one battery and you have to run wires from it to the lights? If so, wire acts like an antenna and is picking up RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) from the computer, or probably more so, the sending unit from your wheel to computer. Get some shielded (+) and (-) wire and run from the battery to the lights. You can also go to Radio Shack and get some chokes to wrap the wires around that will help the wires stop acting like antennas. You can change the length of the wires so they are not such a good antenna length for the frequency the computer/unit is putting out...kinda like tuning to a different frequency on your radio. RFI can be a nightmare trying this and that!!!

Anyway, let me know.

Mr Gnome
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Old 06-27-10, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Gnome
I used to run CB/Ham radio and grounding was a big factor to stop interference, better radio performance, etc. Maybe you could try a ground wire from the lights to the frame of your bike. Use wire with as much "surface area" as you have. In other words, MANY fine strands of wire per gauge.

Are your lights ran off of one battery and you have to run wires from it to the lights? If so, wire acts like an antenna and is picking up RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) from the computer, or probably more so, the sending unit from your wheel to computer. Get some shielded (+) and (-) wire and run from the battery to the lights. You can also go to Radio Shack and get some chokes to wrap the wires around that will help the wires stop acting like antennas. You can change the length of the wires so they are not such a good antenna length for the frequency the computer/unit is putting out...kinda like tuning to a different frequency on your radio. RFI can be a nightmare trying this and that!!!

Anyway, let me know.

Mr Gnome
Tell me more about about wire chokes. I may need if my problem persits--though now things seem to be working okay--moving the battery to the seat bag. Thanks. Nick
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Old 06-27-10, 04:49 PM
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Sounds like too much trouble I can live with it. The puter works fine when I don't run the lights so no biggie. I kinda thought that might be the problem. thanks for the info and if I decide to I now know how to take care of it.
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Old 06-27-10, 04:55 PM
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From my limited electronic schooling, the ferrite choke idea of Mr Gnome sound like a winner. It's basically the same thing as to that big bulge thing you see at the end of computer cable such as the monitor or printer cable. The ferrite choke will cut out the electrical noise from the battery pack which is produce by the current draw of the MS light. If I'm not mistaken, the choke that Mr Gnome might be similar to this.

Another possible solution might be slipping part or all of the wire of the battery cable in some type of braided shield sleeve similar to this. Just make sure that only one end of the sleeve is grounded to the bike frame. These sleeve can be bought at surplus electronic store for a lower price.

One more note of cutting down EMI noise, check to see if any of your cable are in loops like a circle or even twisted. Loop created inductance and can act like attenna for receiving, transmitting. Heck it might even make a tuned coupled circuit

I got this feeling as more high tech lighting for bicycle are being design with these PWM for better control and current draw, the more we will see interference between devices in the future. I'm somewhat surprise we have yet hear some of these noise being pickup from our MP3 player or FM reciever which some of us wear while riding.

Last edited by colleen c; 06-27-10 at 05:00 PM. Reason: spelling of ANT and emf to EMI
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Old 06-28-10, 07:24 AM
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Long Run Nick,

As Colleen said, the full name is "ferrite choke." Just ask for them at Radio Shack...or maybe even just wrapping the wires around a bolt, or something like that, could also do it.

If you do need to change the wires to shielded you could use small diameter coax. LMR makes good 100% shielded coax. If I remember right, LMR #240 is what I used for my radios in the big rig. I ran some good sized amps putting out 700 watts. Between grounding, the coax, and of course set up right, there was no RFI into the trucks computer, AM/FM radio, etc. You would want to only use the center of the coax for both the (+) (-) and use the braided shield to ground somewhere on your bike.

Maybe some of you have heard of Wolf Man Jack? He was a DJ back in the 50's-60's. He broadcasted from across the boarder where he could do whatever he wanted. He ran so many watts that if conditions were right, he could be heard over barbed wire fences, toasters, whatever in the states. Other than just the watts, these things are all acting like antennas.

Mr Gnome
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Old 07-15-10, 05:25 PM
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I have the problem with my Avocet wireless computer, but the Garmin Forerunner 305 is not bothered by my MagicShine. I will try a choke or a shield. I also ordered a helmet mount for the MagicShine and will put the battery in my CamelBak.
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