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  1. #1
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    mounting a flashlight using electrical conduit hangers

    I know I've seen info on this around here somewhere, but my keyword mojo ain't working right now. Tried looking at nordicgroup.us, but that site is largely unresponsive. Google returned a bunch of pre-made mounts for sale and one link to CPF that turned out futile as CPF is down for software upgrade. Ugh! I was hoping to find the info and hit the local Ace tomorrow..
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    Ride what and in what manner pleases you. Those that mind don't matter, and those that matter don't mind. srsly.
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    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Okay, reworded my search in Google and came back with this- http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ing-techniques. Saw references to what I'm looking for, but no links to figure out what exactly I need.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyril View Post
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  3. #3
    Senior Member socalrider's Avatar
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  4. #4
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalrider View Post
    Because I can spend the $ today at the local Ace and have a mount to use tomorrow.

    I'm currently using a large rubber band to mount to either the bar or helmet. The two main issues I have with using the band are a) the light doesn't stay centered- it tends to shift to one side or the other, regardless of where I mount the light; and b) it's getting cold. The gloves I have don't have the dexterity required to mount/dismount the light before/after every ride.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyril View Post
    Ride what and in what manner pleases you. Those that mind don't matter, and those that matter don't mind. srsly.
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  5. #5
    I am a caffine girl colleen c's Avatar
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    You must be looking for something like this:


    They electrical conduit clamp with snap on clips for 1/2 to 3/4 rigid or EMT conduit. You can get other size such as 1" and larger. You will need two and attach them together with a machine bolt and nut. The nice thing about these is that you can turn and adjust them sideway along with the tilt angle. The bad thing is that they are made of metal and you will need some tubing wrapped around your handle bar and flashlight to prevent scratching them. Also don't be fool by the feature of the clip on them. They can be a hassle to unclip with your bare finger. A flatblade screw driver can ease the effort to pry the locking teeth on the clips apart.

    If you don't like the clip type, you can also get them with a bolt to secure the conduit (or flashlight). They look like this:
    Last edited by colleen c; 11-28-10 at 09:26 AM.
    "Difference between a well dressed cyclist riding a two wheeled bicycle and a badly dressed cyclist riding a Recumbent is only a-tire"
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  6. #6
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Yes, collen c, the non-clip type were the ones I remembered seeing before.

    On a side note, one of my Google searches led me to CPF- which was down at the time. I just left the tab open and just hit refresh, and the site is back up. The thread didn't feature the conduit hangers, but someone did post about using hose clamps. I bought some hose clamps way back when, but my mechanical ineptness can't figure out how exactly to use them to mount to a flat bar.

    I want to mount this light to my bike now, then I'll be sending Shiningbeam some business ASAP.
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    I am a caffine girl colleen c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no1mad View Post
    Yes, collen c, the non-clip type were the ones I remembered seeing before.

    On a side note, one of my Google searches led me to CPF- which was down at the time. I just left the tab open and just hit refresh, and the site is back up. The thread didn't feature the conduit hangers, but someone did post about using hose clamps. I bought some hose clamps way back when, but my mechanical ineptness can't figure out how exactly to use them to mount to a flat bar.

    I want to mount this light to my bike now, then I'll be sending Shiningbeam some business ASAP.
    You can use two hose clamp by mounting the first one on your handlebar. Before tightening the handle bar hose clamp tight, unscrew the second hose clamp all the way and slip one end into that hose clamp into the first hose clamp on the handlebar . Center the top hose clamp such that the tightening mechanism is on top and then tighten the hose clamp on the handlebar. By now you should have something that looks like a chain link. Put your flashlight in the upper hose clamp and tighten that one up.

    Oh yes, I forgot to mention that some clip type conduit mount are not coated well and my not take long term exposure to outdoor elements.
    "Difference between a well dressed cyclist riding a two wheeled bicycle and a badly dressed cyclist riding a Recumbent is only a-tire"
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    Some people got their head so far up their butt such that the only thing they hear is muffle when trying to explain anything to them! I only wish they take it out sometimes to smell the roses.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colleen c View Post
    You can use two hose clamp by mounting the first one on your handlebar. Before tightening the handle bar hose clamp tight, unscrew the second hose clamp all the way and slip one end into that hose clamp into the first hose clamp on the handlebar . Center the top hose clamp such that the tightening mechanism is on top and then tighten the hose clamp on the handlebar. By now you should have something that looks like a chain link. Put your flashlight in the upper hose clamp and tighten that one up.

    Oh yes, I forgot to mention that some clip type conduit mount are not coated well and my not take long term exposure to outdoor elements.
    You, my lady, are a jewel to have on these boards! Quick question- should I be concerned about the metal to metal contact or should I try to use some rubber as a spacer? I'm not too concerned about my current handlebar, as I plan on switching to a Nashbar trekking one next time it gets to the bottom of it's pricing cycle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyril View Post
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  9. #9
    I am a caffine girl colleen c's Avatar
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    A layer or two of old tube on your flashlight is nice to prevent the clamp from scratching the flashlight. None is needed between the clamps. The handlebar is optional if you are not too concern with the handlebar getting scratched, although a layer of old tube can be helpful in the sense that the tube shim can allow some movement so that you can tilt and adjust your flashlight while you are riding. If you don't use a layer of old tube, there is a chance that the hose clamp can dig into your handlebar making quick adjustment hard while on the road. If you have Carbon fiber handlebar, avoid the clamp as it can damage the bar.
    "Difference between a well dressed cyclist riding a two wheeled bicycle and a badly dressed cyclist riding a Recumbent is only a-tire"
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    Some people got their head so far up their butt such that the only thing they hear is muffle when trying to explain anything to them! I only wish they take it out sometimes to smell the roses.

  10. #10
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Well, I just finished the hose clamp install. I will have to wait until it gets darker to dial in the positioning, but I think when it gets set, that light ain't going to bounce around at all.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyril View Post
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  11. #11
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Update: Waited until dark and went for a spin around the 'hood. The beam pattern isn't the best, nor is it the most powerful thing around, but it should be just fine on the MUP and streets at 5:00 in the morning. Rush hour at 5 p.m. is a different story...

    I aimed the light so that it throws out a ways, but these means that there is just a little patch just in front of the wheel that has no coverage what-so-ever. Or should I angle the beam down a bit so that patch is covered, and just slow my speed down a bit?
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  12. #12
    Tor
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    No1mad: Do whatever feels better to you. I would be inclined to be careful of having a light bright enough to get drivers to flash lights at you (if you think about the optics, a round pattern flashlight can do this with a lot less light than a well shaped beam can), but it doesn't sound like you reached that point. You could also run two flashlights if you want, and get the best of both worlds.

    Tor

  13. #13
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tor View Post
    No1mad: Do whatever feels better to you. I would be inclined to be careful of having a light bright enough to get drivers to flash lights at you (if you think about the optics, a round pattern flashlight can do this with a lot less light than a well shaped beam can), but it doesn't sound like you reached that point. You could also run two flashlights if you want, and get the best of both worlds.

    Tor
    The one I have now is rated at 115 lumen, so it should be fine for the MUP. I will upgrade as needs and finances allow, but I do plan on running at least a dual light set-up.
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  14. #14
    Senior Member socalrider's Avatar
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    You can ride as fast as the lighting allows.. 115 lumens is not much and would be careful above 15mph.. You need to have lighting pointed so the light is useful to you as you ride. If you had a 700 lumen light you could aim it more down the road and the side spill would still give you decent coverage so you can see in front of you.. With 115 lumens you cannot do that..

  15. #15
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    I haven't bothered getting a cyclocomputer yet, but I'd wager that my current max speed (under ideal conditions) is maybe 15 mph at best. I'll agree that my light's output is rather anemic, especially at dawn and dusk. However, I do the vast majority of my riding on the MUP, so feel that the higher powered lights are not warranted. I do plan on getting something with more 'oomph' ASAP- just in case my commute changes unexpectedly.

    I'll probably get the C8 from SB first, as it uses AAA (what I have now) as well 18650 cells. Then I'll get the charger and 18650 cells, and finally order the R5 (or whatever model outperforms it at the time).
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyril View Post
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  16. #16
    Tor
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    I agree that for a round beam 115 lumens is rather limited, but as you get brighter it gets harder to set your light to see in front of you and not have too much light above the horizon. I think I can do quite well with my 13W HID that has a 12 degree beam (about 500 lumens), although even it starts to have trouble punching through the greater distances while I feel that at those greater distances it is apt to bother drivers. I want (but don't yet have the money allocated to purchase) a properly shaped beam light.

    As for a 15MPH top speed, IME it doesn't take much of a hill to best that without much pedaling. I ride in somewhat hilly terrain, and I can often reach 25MPH by making myself more aerodynamic while coasting. Add pedaling to that and 30 often isn't too hard (when I don't reach the next curve too soon.) On a flat MUP, however, I could believe in a 15MPH top for moderate pedaling, although I still think that with a tailwind you may well exceed that a bit at times.

    If I were riding on a MUP I would be very cautious about overdriving my lights. I was on such a path on Thursday for about eight miles (with perhaps heavy pedestrian traffic), and 22 miles of road riding, including with shoulders of less than ideal width and some hazards in them with the speed limit being 50MPH, and I found that the scariest part of the ride was passing all those pedestrians (most of whom were taking part in an event that included cycling on the path!) Those folks are not alert for cyclists passing them at several times their speed, and remember that you do not have anything close to the movement options that they have.

    Sorry to ramble so, and I probably shouldn't have gone into such detail on paths here, but I do think it has some relevance to lighting. Hope this is useful to you and not too much.

    Tor

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