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  1. #51
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    http://www.toshiba.com/lighting/file...s_Cutsheet.pdf

    This pdf lists the Toshiba 12 volt MR16 LED equivalents that I use. You might be able to use a 6.2 watt bulb, they are "dimable", you'd likely get 85% brightness.

    Your generator looks tres ancienne, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it?
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  2. #52
    You gonna eat that? Doohickie's Avatar
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    It was on my 1966 Raleigh DL-1 when I got it a few years ago.
    I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.



    Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."

  3. #53
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Sir,
    this is a photo of a ceramic socket for the MR16 style bulb. I paid eight dollars and change for each of these:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  4. #54
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    And this is a photo of the box the LED Bulb came in:


    Says 6.7 watts.

  5. #55
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Now for our feature presentation:



    This brings us up-to-date.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  6. #56
    You gonna eat that? Doohickie's Avatar
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    I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.



    Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."

  7. #57
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbike View Post
    I guess you have a dial-up modem? Anyway, in the video, the 12v12a/h is placed exactly where I intend to install it, and I rotate the pedals to demonstrate that I have clearance.

    This is a Trek 720 Ladies frame, so there is only ONE set of bottle cage bosses. I think I will have to use longer screws to mount the Bottle Cage, to reach through the Fiberglass.

    I really want to see how it works with the weight of the battery placed so low. Also, I think I can mount some kind of Chain-Guard to the side of the Battery Box.

    Thanks for your suggestion, I assume you mean a Nickel Cadmium battery, like the Night-Sun system?

    I have built a mock-up of the battery box using foam board, and I will wrap it in Epoxy Fiberglass soon.
    No dial-up modem - in fact no Internet access other than via iPhone because I spend so little time at the house and there's WiFi access at the shop to support the store anyway.

    The suggestion is to post a link SEPERATELY from the embedded video. Apparently some embedded items aren't always recognized by iPhones. Obviously there are two classes of smart phones that providers don't want to tell you about - smart smart phones and stupid smart phones.

  8. #58
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burton View Post
    No dial-up modem - in fact no Internet access other than via iPhone because I spend so little time at the house and there's WiFi access at the shop to support the store anyway.

    The suggestion is to post a link SEPERATELY from the embedded video. Apparently some embedded items aren't always recognized by iPhones. Obviously there are two classes of smart phones that providers don't want to tell you about - smart smart phones and stupid smart phones.
    Here is the Direct Link:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSU0FctRKhI

    This video is only 30 seconds, but it gives a good idea of the lighting, on the front end of the bike.

  9. #59
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbike View Post
    Here is the Direct Link:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSU0FctRKhI

    This video is only 30 seconds, but it gives a good idea of the lighting, on the front end of the bike.
    Used the 'reply with quote' option to isolate, copy out and access the link from the original posts. A seperate link would just be more convenient.

    Understand you have budget restrictions, but still can't see driving comfortably with that configuration. The spot is bright enough but doesn't give any real coverage. Have you considered mounting multiple 35 degree bulbs instead?
    Last edited by Burton; 03-22-13 at 07:04 PM.

  10. #60
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burton View Post
    Used the 'reply with quote' option to isolate, copy out and access the link from the original posts. A seperate link would just be more convenient.

    Understand you have budget restrictions, but still can't see driving comfortably with that configuration. The spot is bright enough but doesn't give any real coverage. Have you considered mounting multiple 35 degree bulbs instead?
    Sorry I forced you to isolate, copy, and paste the link, my bad.

    Budget Restrictions? I have GOOD News, I quit smoking 27 days ago, and I am saving ten dollars a day. that money will go for new wheels, and additional lights, and more bike and non-bike stuff generally.

    The current setup has a 25 degree on the right, and an 8 degree on the left. Yes, I am thinking about adding more. I want to mount a light on my tripod, so the light goes wherever the camera is pointed. I have the lights on the bottom of the fairing, which minimizes glare in my eyes, but It might be better to mount some more lights *Higher*, which will light the road ahead better, and maybe be more visible to mootorists.

    Yes, I quit smoking, and I'm spending money like crazy on other stuff. Yesterday, I bought a small wheelbarrow, one with two wheels, so "maybe" I can tow it behind my bike, but don't quote me on that. We are stil cleaning up after Hurricane Sandy, which struck late October, 2012. I am cleaning up a sidewalk this week, which is on a blind curve. with a ten foot high concrete retaining wall on the right.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  11. #61
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbike View Post
    Sorry I forced you to isolate, copy, and paste the link, my bad.

    Budget Restrictions? I have GOOD News, I quit smoking 27 days ago, and I am saving ten dollars a day. that money will go for new wheels, and additional lights, and more bike and non-bike stuff generally.

    The current setup has a 25 degree on the right, and an 8 degree on the left. Yes, I am thinking about adding more. I want to mount a light on my tripod, so the light goes wherever the camera is pointed. I have the lights on the bottom of the fairing, which minimizes glare in my eyes, but It might be better to mount some more lights *Higher*, which will light the road ahead better, and maybe be more visible to mootorists.

    Yes, I quit smoking, and I'm spending money like crazy on other stuff. Yesterday, I bought a small wheelbarrow, one with two wheels, so "maybe" I can tow it behind my bike, but don't quote me on that. We are stil cleaning up after Hurricane Sandy, which struck late October, 2012. I am cleaning up a sidewalk this week, which is on a blind curve. with a ten foot high concrete retaining wall on the right.
    Congrads on dropping the cigarettes! Not only will your buget be better off - your cycling will too.

  12. #62
    Devourer of souls Dead Roman's Avatar
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    you can run your 12v batteries with a 4 cell lithium polymer battery like is used in RC aircraft. I am going to be running LED strips on my bike with a LiPo. Ill post pics when they get in. 19 bux shipped for 16 feet and the controller.
    The road of life is winding, but the pavement is smooth

  13. #63
    Devourer of souls Dead Roman's Avatar
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    i mean 12v LED's
    The road of life is winding, but the pavement is smooth

  14. #64
    Devourer of souls Dead Roman's Avatar
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    Just got these rigged up, video as promised.

    The road of life is winding, but the pavement is smooth

  15. #65
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dead Roman View Post
    Just got these rigged up, video as promised.

    THAT is really interesting. (Please Click on the picture, folks, to see the video, so you know what we're talking about) Are you using some kind of radio control, or a length or wire, to control the colors of the lights? That's the part I can't figure out.
    My LED strip is plain white, though I did recently purchase a bunch of LED night-lights which each have 1 blue, 1 green and 2 red LED's, which give the room a soft white light (color television fans will know what RGB stands for).

    I think you need more lights to the rear, but maybe you already have a Dinotte or a PBSF, which isn't shown in the video, and you're just supplementing it.

    I have another video, which is uploading right now, which shows my headlights against the road (at least until I turn into a lighted parking lot). My headlights are 300 lumens each.

    The video is now 77% complete. Please stand by.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  16. #66
    Devourer of souls Dead Roman's Avatar
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    The video does not do justice to how bright the LED strips. The light setup came with a controller and an infra-red light. With the battery I am using I should be able to run these lights for 24 hrs without re-charging. Ive got some 3 watt LED's that I am gonna use on the front as headlights. they will be on a separate switch though so I only have to run em when there are no streetlights, so i dont burn as much battery.
    The road of life is winding, but the pavement is smooth

  17. #67
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Here's the video. You can see the headlight hitting the road for the first twelve seconds, but then I pan the camera. I'm trying to get a picture of the train leaving the station, Glen Cove Station, on the Long Island Rail Road.



    It is not fully dark yet, and the car headlights are pretty bright, but you can see the 300 lumens beam.

  18. #68
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dead Roman View Post
    Just got these rigged up, video as promised.

    Kinda cool - alternatively you could key it into a sound sensor and a mobile boom box and run your own mobile disco!

  19. #69
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burton View Post
    Kinda cool - alternatively you could key it into a sound sensor and a mobile boom box and run your own mobile disco!
    The problem is Wattage. These LED's use only milliwatts, the whole string probably uses only four or five watts. But audio speakers are going to demand much, much more wattage, like 35 watts each, or 75 or 200 watts before you get anywhere near Loud.

    PS-I removed the radio from my bike, it wasn't worth the hassle, and it was a distraction.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  20. #70
    Senior Member dougmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dead Roman View Post
    you can run your 12v batteries with a 4 cell lithium polymer battery like is used in RC aircraft. I am going to be running LED strips on my bike with a LiPo. Ill post pics when they get in. 19 bux shipped for 16 feet and the controller.
    Be careful with those ... some of the LED strips I've seen don't last long when the voltage goes over 14 v (the alternator in a car tends to keep things right at 13.8v) ... and a 4s LiPo pack puts out 16.8v when fully charged.

    I'd suggest a 3s pack instead -- starts at 12.6v, goes down to 10.8v by the time it's time to recharge.

  21. #71
    Devourer of souls Dead Roman's Avatar
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    4 cell was a typo, Im using a 3 cell battery
    The road of life is winding, but the pavement is smooth

  22. #72
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougmc View Post
    Be careful with those ... some of the LED strips I've seen don't last long when the voltage goes over 14 v (the alternator in a car tends to keep things right at 13.8v) ... and a 4s LiPo pack puts out 16.8v when fully charged.

    I'd suggest a 3s pack instead -- starts at 12.6v, goes down to 10.8v by the time it's time to recharge.
    I like my 12 volt , 12 amp/hour lead/acid, on account it is 13.1 volts when fully charged, and is still 12.5 after a 3 hour ride.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  23. #73
    Senior Member dougmc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbike View Post
    I like my 12 volt , 12 amp/hour lead/acid, on account it is 13.1 volts when fully charged, and is still 12.5 after a 3 hour ride.
    You probably already know this, but as a rough rule of thumb, for these batteries, 13.0 (or 13.1, it's a rough rule of thumb) volts means fully charged, 12.0 volts means just about dead, and it's linear between the two -- so 12.5v means about half charged. But the electrical system in a car is generally about 13.8v while the engine is running and the battery is fully charged -- but it drops to about 13.0v when the engine is turned off.

    The problem with a 12v 12Ah lead acid battery is that it weighs 8 or 9 lbs. The advantage is that it's cheap, at least compared to the LiPo equivalent.

  24. #74
    Devourer of souls Dead Roman's Avatar
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    lipos are less than 20$ I dont see any advantage to running a lead acid battery, except if you crash and smash the battery, it wont catch on fire like a solar flare. www.hobbycity.com has all the LIPO batteries youcould ever ask for at dirt cheap. I got the battery I am using on sale for 5 dollars.
    The road of life is winding, but the pavement is smooth

  25. #75
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Most LED lights require a driver or 'light engine' to operate and that driver has an input range. The LED's I'm using myself will accept anything from 9V to 50VDC which makes a 3S1P (11.1V) ideal. The initial voltage will drive them effeciently and when the voltage drops below the minimum 9V required, everything shuts down. Which has the secondary effect of protecting the Lipo cells from over discharging.

    I went to Lipos because lead acid, besides being heavy, doesn't like heavy drains or deep discharges. The rated capacity falls off rapidly and they are only good for a few hundred cycles. Some people might be happy with that - I use batteries for multiple applications, some of which draw a lot of amps, and I want to get as long a useful life as possible - hopefully hundreds of charges at close to full capacity. So far, moving into the second year - everything still looks good.

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