Magicshine knocks out wireless Sigma Computer -- Shield the battery leads?
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Don from Austin Texas
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Magicshine knocks out wireless Sigma Computer -- Shield the battery leads?
I haven't found a way to route the Magicshine battery lead where using the headlight doesn't eventually knock out my Sigma's readings. Has anyone tried shielding the Magicshine battery cable?
Don in Austin
Don in Austin
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I would think it's the controller, which is in the light itself
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Don from Austin Texas
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But the leads would most likely act as an antenna for the noise generated in the controller. I have been able to route the leads such that I went several miles before the computer got knocked out.
Don in Austin
Don in Austin
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I ended up replacing my wireless computer with a wired one because I couldn't find a way to avoid the interference. The upside is that wired computers are generally less expensive and their batteries last much longer.
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I have an old Cateye wireless that gets messed up by my Magicshine. Putting them on opposite sides of the handlebars is enough to make them work though. Didn't need to shield mine after all.
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Ultimately, the best solution for me is to run the single cell Magicshine flashlight on the handlebars. This causes no interference. I then attach the four cell light to a Bell Sweep helmet and use the extension cable down to a battery kept in a bike jersey rear pocket. This particular helmet works perfectly as no extra mounting hardware is required.
This solution has the added benefit of allowing you to read the computer without turning on the back lighting.
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I'm looking at putting a MagiShine on the front end of a TerraTrike Rambler... the wireless Cateye computer sensor and display will be on the wheel/adjacent handlebar, less than a foot seperation between the two... does anyone think I'll have a problem with this?? The light will be about 2 ft ahead of the Cateye..
Wes
Wes
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it's really not possible to predict who will have problems
If I was really dedicated to using one of these lights, I'd probably put in some ferrite beads or extra capacitors or something else that would knock down the emitted signal
If I was really dedicated to using one of these lights, I'd probably put in some ferrite beads or extra capacitors or something else that would knock down the emitted signal
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This is why I stick with wired. Even though it is of production, I am still able to Blackburn's wired Delphi 6.0 that has an altimeter(the 5.0 does not).
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