Replacing incandescent light with old dynamo with halogen
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Replacing incandescent light with old dynamo with halogen
Is it possible to simply swap out an old incandescent front light with any sort of halogen light, or are there specific "compatibility requirements" for the dynamo and rear light used?
My setup consists of:
* Interesting that the website has a little flag apparently for an English translation... which happens to to do nothing. Anyway, there's nothing special about these cheap lights: I simply wanted to link to an image of them.
** While browsing teh Internets, I just noticed that these dynamos are being sold for a ridiculous amount of money... So it seems my next question is now: How do you refurbish old bottle dynamos?
My setup consists of:
- A Union model 4290 incandescent front light which was just KO'ed and needs replacing*
- A 2-month-old Busch & Müller 339AS incandescent rear light*
- An old Soubitez 6v/3w bottle dynamo which (usually) manages to light the two lights above fine**
* Interesting that the website has a little flag apparently for an English translation... which happens to to do nothing. Anyway, there's nothing special about these cheap lights: I simply wanted to link to an image of them.
** While browsing teh Internets, I just noticed that these dynamos are being sold for a ridiculous amount of money... So it seems my next question is now: How do you refurbish old bottle dynamos?
Last edited by errantlinguist; 07-21-13 at 04:05 AM. Reason: Found info about the dynamo
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Halogen bulbs are incandescent bulbs, just with a different fill gas.
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The dynamo lights are meant to be interchangeable. The front lights take 6V/2.5W and rear 6V/0.5W or less. Halogen is only used for front. There is only one subtlety regarding halogen in that they are less tolerant to overloading than standard incandescent. A good halogen will have a protection built in, but cheap might not. If you ride a cheap front halogen off a standard 3W dynamo and do not connect a rear lamp or connect an LED rear lamp, you may blow the front when at high speed.
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Thanks; It seems that also on some sites there is mention of simply replacing the "normal" incandescent bulb with a "halogen" one... is this really possible?? (Halogen functioning at a higher temperature and such) I have a spare "normal" incandescent light which I could install if that's the case.
Also, I found on the internet pictures of my old front light from about 7 months ago which I threw out because it didn't work. Turned out that was a Soubitez straight out of the '70s too. 'Doh. How often do these things turn up for sale online, anyway?
Also, I found on the internet pictures of my old front light from about 7 months ago which I threw out because it didn't work. Turned out that was a Soubitez straight out of the '70s too. 'Doh. How often do these things turn up for sale online, anyway?
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Thanks; It seems that also on some sites there is mention of simply replacing the "normal" incandescent bulb with a "halogen" one... is this really possible?? (Halogen functioning at a higher temperature and such) I have a spare "normal" incandescent light which I could install if that's the case.
#6
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If the light is really a goner, get an LED replacement. For a decent cheapish light I'd go with a B&M Lumotec Lyt. In the US, available from Peter White: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&m-hl.asp
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If the light is really a goner, get an LED replacement. For a decent cheapish light I'd go with a B&M Lumotec Lyt. In the US, available from Peter White: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&m-hl.asp
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There should not be anything inside a Soubitez generator but copper wire coils, magnets, iron, and a bearing. If it moves dodgy, the bearing needs cleaning. Carefully look at all the screws and see if you can take the little beastie apart. I would not mess with the pivot and latch without a good reason - springs inside! If you can do all this without disturbing the magnets, do that. If the magnets are on the rotating shaft (I guess they have to be, actually!), don't chip them.
Clean the bearing areas with rags with a dab of solvent on them - focus on elbow grease rather than solvents, due to the age of the wire insulation, about 40 years.
To reassemble, what to lube with? I'm not an oils expert, but I'd try a drop of 3 in 1 Electric Motor Oil, or maybe just a drop of automotive motor oil, just 10w-40 or something common. Not a lot, because if it's a wrong choice you don't want gunk to build up.
When you turn the roller by hand you should feel distinct steps in the rotation (caused by the magnetics) but smooth motion without binding, end play or radial play.
Clean the bearing areas with rags with a dab of solvent on them - focus on elbow grease rather than solvents, due to the age of the wire insulation, about 40 years.
To reassemble, what to lube with? I'm not an oils expert, but I'd try a drop of 3 in 1 Electric Motor Oil, or maybe just a drop of automotive motor oil, just 10w-40 or something common. Not a lot, because if it's a wrong choice you don't want gunk to build up.
When you turn the roller by hand you should feel distinct steps in the rotation (caused by the magnetics) but smooth motion without binding, end play or radial play.
#9
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There is the screw base change to flange base too
I have some older Union Halogen headlight units . FS..
I have some older Union Halogen headlight units . FS..
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There should not be anything inside a Soubitez generator but copper wire coils, magnets, iron, and a bearing. If it moves dodgy, the bearing needs cleaning. Carefully look at all the screws and see if you can take the little beastie apart. I would not mess with the pivot and latch without a good reason - springs inside! If you can do all this without disturbing the magnets, do that. If the magnets are on the rotating shaft (I guess they have to be, actually!), don't chip them.
Clean the bearing areas with rags with a dab of solvent on them - focus on elbow grease rather than solvents, due to the age of the wire insulation, about 40 years.
To reassemble, what to lube with? I'm not an oils expert, but I'd try a drop of 3 in 1 Electric Motor Oil, or maybe just a drop of automotive motor oil, just 10w-40 or something common. Not a lot, because if it's a wrong choice you don't want gunk to build up.
When you turn the roller by hand you should feel distinct steps in the rotation (caused by the magnetics) but smooth motion without binding, end play or radial play.
Clean the bearing areas with rags with a dab of solvent on them - focus on elbow grease rather than solvents, due to the age of the wire insulation, about 40 years.
To reassemble, what to lube with? I'm not an oils expert, but I'd try a drop of 3 in 1 Electric Motor Oil, or maybe just a drop of automotive motor oil, just 10w-40 or something common. Not a lot, because if it's a wrong choice you don't want gunk to build up.
When you turn the roller by hand you should feel distinct steps in the rotation (caused by the magnetics) but smooth motion without binding, end play or radial play.
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