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  1. #1
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    Dinotte/Cat Eye Wireless Conflict

    I have a Cat Eye wireless Strada cycling computer, and a dinotte light. Can't remember the model name, but it's one of the 1000 lums ones, with a good sized battery.
    Anyway, using it does (or at least can) cause the computer to stop working.
    I think that when the headlight cable gets too close to the computer this happens....if I route it very carefully so that it doesn't get near it, the computer can still work.
    On my bike, though, this is a hassle.
    The ideal spot on my bike for mounting the battery, unfortunately (where I'd kept a battery for years before getting a wireless comptuer) puts the cable (or maybe it's the battery itself, I don't know for sure, but this doesn't happen when the light is not on and the cable isn't connected to it) where it kills the computer.
    Is there a solution to this?
    I checked with Dinotte and Cat Eye: each blamed the other.

  2. #2
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    There is a solution but you're not going to like it. Get a new bike computer with ANT+. Its a digital wireless link and dramatically more immune to RF noise.

    The problem is that non-digital cycling computers use the dumbest possible RF transmission scheme, basically just emitting an RF pulses as the wheel spins by. Many lights use DC-DC switching converters for power control of the LED. These switching converters are extremely efficient and typically operate at in the same RF frequency range as the wireless computers.

    You can try shielding the battery wire by putting conductive wire mesh loom around the cable. It might get you enough. In general, shielding on a bike is tricky since you don't have access to a good ground.

  3. #3
    Seņior Member ItsJustMe's Avatar
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    Wired computers: they just work.
    Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
    There is a solution but you're not going to like it. Get a new bike computer with ANT+. Its a digital wireless link and dramatically more immune to RF noise.

    The problem is that non-digital cycling computers use the dumbest possible RF transmission scheme, basically just emitting an RF pulses as the wheel spins by. Many lights use DC-DC switching converters for power control of the LED. These switching converters are extremely efficient and typically operate at in the same RF frequency range as the wireless computers.

    You can try shielding the battery wire by putting conductive wire mesh loom around the cable. It might get you enough. In general, shielding on a bike is tricky since you don't have access to a good ground.

    What does ANT+ mean? Any particular computers that have it (I don't need every last feature).

  5. #5
    Galveston County Texas 10 Wheels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ItsJustMe View Post
    Wired computers: they just work.
    Yep...$5 fix.....what I use with my Dinotte.
    http://dx.com/p/sunding-electronic-b...edometer-24075

    Last edited by 10 Wheels; 09-28-13 at 10:03 AM.
    [SIZE=1][B]What I like about Texas[/B]
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGukLuXzH1E

    Set F1re To The Ra1n ( NY Night Rain Ride)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7jfcWEkSrI

  6. #6
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    I have a Dinotte 600L & 140R, and I have used them with Garmin 305 & 705.
    Never had a problem.

  7. #7
    Galveston County Texas 10 Wheels's Avatar
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    Use these with my strada

    [SIZE=1][B]What I like about Texas[/B]
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGukLuXzH1E

    Set F1re To The Ra1n ( NY Night Rain Ride)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7jfcWEkSrI

  8. #8
    Galveston County Texas 10 Wheels's Avatar
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    This is a brighter light for night riding and works with your Strada.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._email_1p_0_ti

    [SIZE=1][B]What I like about Texas[/B]
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGukLuXzH1E

    Set F1re To The Ra1n ( NY Night Rain Ride)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7jfcWEkSrI

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkatz1 View Post
    What does ANT+ mean? Any particular computers that have it (I don't need every last feature).
    http://www.thisisant.com/directory/

    Unfortunately, you're basically looking at higher end computers. For example, I think all the Garmin GPS units have ANT+. The person who was using the Garmin units is running ANT+, so he would not expect any problems. I'd be surprised if you can find an ANT+ computer for <$100.

  10. #10
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    My 1000 lum light does great for me. Makes a lot more sense to replace the computer.....I found cat eye has a digital ant + (whatever that is) of the strada, so I'll probably get on one. One of the reasons I don't want a garmin is that it needs to be re-charged daily....or close to that. Don't wanna bother for features that I mostly won't use.
    The computer I used to really like (I DON'T really ilke the strada all that much) was the cat eye 1.1. Was a great thing (except for it's bad habit of recording top speeds, that you couldn't erase, of like: 547 MPH). It had three buttons (I HATE the cat eye one button thing). You could go through it's features in either direction.....
    But the main thing about it I liked was that it kept a record of your miles.....you could look back and see how many miles you went every day for a week, for every month for a year, and for every year....this was really useful to me, and I wish some other computer would do that; none that I know of will.....Maybe garmins will, but I don't want to bother with something i have to charge every day.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Looigi's Avatar
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    Check out the Bontrager Node 1.1 and 2.1 computers. They're ANT+, run off CR2032 batteries, and save summary history for review. 1.1 is $70 but wheel/cadence sensors and HRM strap are extra. It'll work with a Garmin GSC10 wheel/cadence sensor available on Amazon for $38 and free shipping.

    http://bontrager.com/node/computers/
    Last edited by Looigi; 09-29-13 at 08:36 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ItsJustMe View Post
    Wired computers: they just work.
    Well, I always found that eventually the cable shorts, etc.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
    There is a solution but you're not going to like it. Get a new bike computer with ANT+. Its a digital wireless link and dramatically more immune to RF noise.

    The problem is that non-digital cycling computers use the dumbest possible RF transmission scheme, basically just emitting an RF pulses as the wheel spins by. Many lights use DC-DC switching converters for power control of the LED. These switching converters are extremely efficient and typically operate at in the same RF frequency range as the wireless computers.

    You can try shielding the battery wire by putting conductive wire mesh loom around the cable. It might get you enough. In general, shielding on a bike is tricky since you don't have access to a good ground.
    So, there's a cateye digital strada (actually there are three versions of it). It's 2.4ghz, but doesn't list ant+. Is is the digital rate or the ant that's important?
    http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD420DW/

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkatz1 View Post
    So, there's a cateye digital strada (actually there are three versions of it). It's 2.4ghz, but doesn't list ant+. Is is the digital rate or the ant that's important?
    http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD420DW/
    That would probably work. Its the digital interface that's important. Still ANT+ will make it a lot more versatile from a compatibility point.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
    That would probably work. Its the digital interface that's important. Still ANT+ will make it a lot more versatile from a compatibility point.
    I can't think of anything I need/want it to talk to. I am a simple man.

  16. #16
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    So, eventually I bought a Cateye digital, wireless strada. Also has heart rate monitor, not a bad thing...Anyway: that solved the problem. It runs fine with the dinette light on.

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