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  1. #1
    Senior Member Slaninar's Avatar
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    Installing dynamo hub and lights

    Will these 3 be enough for the job, with just wires extra, of course, or does it take something more?

    Wheel with a hub:

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||


    Front and rear lights:

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||


    I connect lights parallel, or serial? Do these lights have their own on/off switches?


    Do I need this protector and do I connect it serial to the hub generator, or parallel to each bulb, or some other way?

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||
    Last edited by Slaninar; 10-17-13 at 12:36 PM.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member mulveyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaninar View Post
    Will these 3 be enough for the job, with just wires extra, of course, or does it take something more?

    Wheel with a hub:

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||


    Front and rear lights:

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||


    I connect lights parallel, or serial? Do these lights have their own on/off switches?


    Do I need this protector and do I connect it serial to the hub generator, or parallel to each bulb, or some other way?

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...,245||0|0|||||
    No, you don't need an overvoltage protector with any modern hub dynamo and LED lights. The headlight you selected is a halogen - you would be MUCH better off with a decent LED light like the IQ Cyo, as you'll never have to worry about a bulb burning out. You should also get lights with standlights so that they still illuminate even when you're stopped at an intersection, etc.

    The wiring goes from the hub to the front light, and then from the front light to the taillight. The particular headlight you chose is not switched. Some models do have switches, some don't. It will tell you in the specifications.
    Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.

  3. #3
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    You wire them in parallel.

    The prices you show are very good.

    My dynamo headlight has an on/off switch, but I leave it on. My tail light doesn't have a switch. I don't really notice the drag. I think having my lights on in the daytime might make me a little safer.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

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  4. #4
    Senior Member Slaninar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mulveyr View Post
    No, you don't need an overvoltage protector with any modern hub dynamo and LED lights. The headlight you selected is a halogen - you would be MUCH better off with a decent LED light like the IQ Cyo, as you'll never have to worry about a bulb burning out. You should also get lights with standlights so that they still illuminate even when you're stopped at an intersection, etc.

    The wiring goes from the hub to the front light, and then from the front light to the taillight. The particular headlight you chose is not switched. Some models do have switches, some don't. It will tell you in the specifications.

    Is this good for a front light?

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...gc=0;orderby=2


    This one for the rear? Says it has "standlight":

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...gc=0;orderby=2
    Evviva il comunismo e la libertÓ.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DiegoFrogs's Avatar
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    The B&M stuff is good, but I'm not sure that front light has a switch, nor am I sure if it has a standlight.

    To be fair, I have a low-end dynamo hub whose drag doesn't change noticeably when I switch on my lights, so even though I have an upmarket front light with a switch and a "senso" mode, I leave the thing on all the time while riding. For my application, I probably should have bought one of the cheaper models, but I'm not upset about it.

  6. #6
    Senior Member mulveyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaninar View Post
    Is this good for a front light?

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...gc=0;orderby=2


    This one for the rear? Says it has "standlight":

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...gc=0;orderby=2
    Those two would be perfectly fine. My wife has that taillight on her bike, and it's nice and bright.
    Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.

  7. #7
    Senior Member SlimAgainSoon's Avatar
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    Those are nice lights.

    I have something like the taillight on my bike.

    The taillight doesn't say it has a standlight, but it is possible that the standlight function in the headlight would keep both lights burning (I've already stepped beyond my expertise! I'm sure some others can weigh in on that).

    The standlight is a good thing to have. You don't want to disappear from view waiting for a light to change.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlimAgainSoon View Post
    Those are nice lights.

    I have something like the taillight on my bike.

    The taillight doesn't say it has a standlight, but it is possible that the standlight function in the headlight would keep both lights burning (I've already stepped beyond my expertise! I'm sure some others can weigh in on that).

    The standlight is a good thing to have. You don't want to disappear from view waiting for a light to change.
    Actually the taillight listing DOES say standlight. It's right on top of the red part of the tail light. STANDLICHT - German....

  9. #9
    Senior Member Slaninar's Avatar
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    Now all I have to do is wait for a winter discount...
    Evviva il comunismo e la libertÓ.

  10. #10
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    I'm also in the process of installing a dynamo and lights. I'd like to protect the wires on the lights from wear and dirt and put them in some kind of housing. Does anyone have a recommendation for this? Can I just use brake or derailleur cable housing?

  11. #11
    Senior Member mulveyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by econprofessor View Post
    I'm also in the process of installing a dynamo and lights. I'd like to protect the wires on the lights from wear and dirt and put them in some kind of housing. Does anyone have a recommendation for this? Can I just use brake or derailleur cable housing?
    For the ultimate in durability, you can get coaxial cable for dyno lights that is VERY tough. But even if you don't go that route, just use some common-sense like:

    1) Run the wiring on the inside edge of fork legs to protect them from bumps.
    2) Minimize the amount of spiraling that you do - each spiral is just another opportunity for a wire to get damaged.
    3) Make sure that you allow enough slack in the wire so that it will not be pulled or broken regardless of how much you turn your handlebars.
    4) If you're running wiring inside a metal fender, you can embed it in the rolled-over edge of the fender, or use aluminum tape to hold it in place.
    5) Cover exposed wiring with helicopter tape.
    Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.

  12. #12
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    I plan on using cable ties to attach it to the frame and racks (my front light is on a rack as is my rear light). Still might be happier with some kind of housing, especially for the front light, as the leads are hard-wired into the light.

  13. #13
    Senior Member mulveyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by econprofessor View Post
    I plan on using cable ties to attach it to the frame and racks (my front light is on a rack as is my rear light). Still might be happier with some kind of housing, especially for the front light, as the leads are hard-wired into the light.
    In practice, you're extremely unlikely to have any issues with the wiring getting damaged. Many ( perhaps even most ) dyno lights have hard-wired leads, and if it was a significant problem I would expect to see lots of complaints about it.
    Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.

  14. #14
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    The wiring goes ... hub ->headlight->taillight, the taillight is hooked up to the headlight
    headlight is wired to the plugs into the hub-dynamo.

    heat shrink tubing can be slipped over the wires and , with heat , the tubing shrinks
    to cover connections and potential abrasion points ..

    as previously discussed this one adds a USB power plug to charge your I widgets as you ride.

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?product...gc=0;orderby=2
    Last edited by fietsbob; 10-21-13 at 01:52 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    The wiring goes ... hub ->headlight->taillight, the taillight is hooked up to the headlight
    headlight is wired to the plugs into the hub-dynamo.

    heat shrink tubing can be slipped over the wires and , with heat , the tubing shrinks
    to cover connections and potential abrasion points ..

    as previously discussed this one adds a USB power plug (for an additional 1100 Euros) to charge your I widgets as you ride.

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?product...gc=0;orderby=2
    Well, I think it's this one that adds the USB power plug (for an additional 100 Euros), etc.....yours is just a light: https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...1400,1410,1411

    BTW, it's backordered until at least November!

  16. #16
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Try another retailer, then .. The NL based AXA-Basta, company
    and Spanninga, are competitors to B&M , try their products.


    NB: I did not mention a price difference, at all [let alone a K-Euro overstatement]

    the above poster added that in a quote, a clause which was not mine.
    I would hope they would edit that out.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 10-22-13 at 12:11 PM.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
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    Hey Fietsbob, sorry that was me. I don't know how that happened, I was trying to just quote you add some information, and somehow the system let me edit YOUR comment! I apologize. I am unable to edit that out, no option to edit now.


    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Try another retailer, then .. The NL based AXA-Basta, company
    and Spanninga, are competitors to B&M , try their products.


    NB: I did not mention a price difference, at all [let alone a K-Euro overstatement]

    the above poster added that in a quote, a clause which was not mine.
    I would hope they would edit that out.

  18. #18
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I see "edit" at the bottom of all my posts 3rd from the right, other people's posts have 'reply' and reply with'..

    then once in the edit mode , the 'Go Advanced' portion is there to use..

  19. #19
    Senior Member mulveyr's Avatar
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    FWIW, I have the Luxos U ( with the USB option ) and it's a VERY nice light. The beam pattern is great for seeing around corners when you come to an intersection, etc. And the USB option is great for keeping my phone/GPS/etc charged on all-day rides.

    The only notable downside ( beside the price ) is that there are incompatibilities with some taillights, and it won't work properly with lights grounded to the frame, so you can't use the single-wire setup common on many bikes. In my case, I disassembled my Seculite taillight to eliminate the ground lug, and then it worked fine with coax cable.
    Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.

  20. #20
    Senior Member LuckySailor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaninar View Post
    Is this good for a front light?

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...gc=0;orderby=2


    This one for the rear? Says it has "standlight":

    https://www.bike24.net/1.php?content...gc=0;orderby=2
    The headlight says standlight at the bottom of the item description. It also has a on/off switch and can be used as a daytime runnig light. Good luck waiting for a winter sale-i have yet to see that one happen on the B&M stuff. Recently purchased the Luxos U and tail light as well- ultimately from PW cycles. Nice to read more good reviews about it. With the coax cabling it'll be an awesome system

  21. #21
    Senior Member DiegoFrogs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by econprofessor View Post
    I plan on using cable ties to attach it to the frame and racks (my front light is on a rack as is my rear light). Still might be happier with some kind of housing, especially for the front light, as the leads are hard-wired into the light.
    Maybe try some aquarium tubing?

    I was actually thinking about bending some thin stainless steel tubing and finding some elegant way of attaching it. I just zip-tied everything on to get up and running while I sorted out the details. That was about 6 months ago...

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