I'm very happy with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1, currently $16
I know, it's not AAA or AA batteries like you specified, but the battery pack is external and they're fairly inexpensive also. It has a charger, no need to plug into a usb port. The battery packs are built from 18650, superior to alkaline in just about every respect.
LordMarv, there many of us who are here for you to walk you through building a wheel. It takes a lot of patience the first time, but most people of average mechanical ability can do it. It's very satisfying. If you decide not to do it, a bike shop will probably charge you about $60 to do it. I could be off.
If you need a 700C touring-type wheel, these are a great deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/IDC-Stout-dy...-/271360496677
Originally Posted by fietsbob
But if you are going for simple, just buy a pair of 18650 single cell flashlights with High/med/low output and put one on your bar and keep one for a spare. Get protected 18650 cells so they can't be overcharged or overdischarged. That's it.
However, currently I'm liking riding with this attached to a quality battery pack: http://www.fasttech.com/products/160...roup-3-2-modes
because I'm a sucker for the flashing ring of 9 LEDs around the main one. You can shut off the main emitter and just ride with the little LEDs on a well-lit road. When I get to an intersection when I suspect oncoming traffic will make an illegal left turn into me (they see the bike and light, the attitude is that you are on a bike, so screw you) pop the main LED into 3 HZ strobe mode and they don't know what the heck you are. ;)
That's an unbeatable deal on the dynamo wheel. If anyone is considering going to a dynamo hub, buy that wheel. I've bought stuff from that seller, and it went well. I recommend the Pixeo dynamo powered taillight. It has clever mounting options.
You didn't say how much you wanted to spend.
I have an integrated battery Cygolite Expillon 350 and the battery is 3 years old and still holds it's charge as long as it did when it was new. When a rechargeable battery doesn't hold the charge for long it's usually because of initial user error...however this is user ignorance that the instructions do not cover on any rechargeable item from lights to drills! You have to charge up the battery upon receiving it for 24 hours regardless if the charger light says charged, then you have to go through 3 complete discharge and recharge cycles in a row (on these cycles the battery is finish charging when the light says so unlike the initial charge). Once you do that you should have a very reliable battery. Cygolite will warranty that battery of yours up to one year from purchase...err wrong, I just checked it's up to 90 days, but you can buy replacement battery if you want if yours is user replaceable like the Expilion.
Going back to AA lights, don't bother with AAA lights they'll be useless for lighting! This one http://harriscyclery.net/product/bus...eries-2692.htm runs on either AA rechargeables or AA alkalines, it will come with a charger and NiMh bats but you'll have to buy the alkalines; it's probably the best of both worlds (rechargeable and non rechargeable) on the market and it's on a huge closeout sale.
That does look like an excellent deal. The bike I'm considering it for is the Raleigh One Way, with wider tires/rims...700 x 35. I'll have to contact the seller and ask some questions...thanks for all the recommendations. I'd been under the impression that to buy a premade wheel with dyno hub was a 300-400 dollar expense, glad to see I was wrong.
Lithium Ion technology for batteries is what's out there. Even in my Garmin Edge 500. New technology will eventually trickle down to bike lights and flash lights.
Then there's Tesla: http://www.teslamotors.com/forum/for...epo4-batteries
LITHIUM IRON PHOSPHATE (LIFEPO4) BATTERIES
band27 | MARCH 14, 2011
There are many types of Lithium Ion (cobalt, magnesium, polymer, etc.) batteries on the market.
Lithium Iron Phosphate seems to be the best choice at this time.
• between 2000 to 3000 life cycles of recharging
• doesn't heat up as fast (stays cool)
• does not suffer from “thermal runaway”
• Extremely low self discharge rate
• virtually flat discharge curve means maximum power available until fully discharged (no “voltage sag” as with lead acid batteries)
• can be safely rapidly recharged
Which one will Tesla be using in the model S ?
I built my first wheel with nothing but a home made stand and a spoke wrench. I made the stand from 2x4s, shelf brackets and a couple of pieces of aluminum that I cut slots into. I put a piece of threaded rod through a union nut and captured that on one of the uprights with drywall screws, and dished the wheel by simply flipping it over and getting the distance the same on both sides.
I used Sheldon Brown's wheel building page. My first wheel stayed dead true for about 15,000 miles, at which point the axle broke (it was cheap). I have lousy luck with factory wheels but I've never had a wheel that I built myself cause me any trouble at all.
The eBike builders prefer Lithium iron phosphate. It's pretty amazing tech, but it's not really necessary for relatively low drain applications like lighting. It's more needed for things like running high torque motors. ebikes, cars, handheld power tools.
IIRC, Tesla uses almost the same Panasonic 18650 batteries that I use in my cheap Chinese torch. But where I just use one, the Tesla S uses ~7000.
Originally Posted by Garfield Cat
I built a wheel once using a little Crescent wrench. On the basis of that experience...yeah, definitely fork out a few bucks on a real spoke wrench!
Originally Posted by ItsJustMe
I'm using this one: http://www.koolerbuy.com/koolertron-...mp-p-4872.html and happy with it. In fact, I seldom go out cycling at night. Battery life (about 6-8 hours at mid mode) also meets my needs.