https://www.bikeforums.net/ Discuss the unique features and issues of folding bikes. Also a great place to learn what folding bike will work best for your needs. en Fri, 29 May 2026 14:48:09 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.bikeforums.net/images/misc/rss.jpg https://www.bikeforums.net/ https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1321130-building-ultimate-folding-travel-road-bike-i-need-your-design-feedback.html Thu, 28 May 2026 16:16:55 GMT Image: Hey everyone! I’m a lifelong cyclist: road, gravel, MTB, TT, city bikes, you name it! I’ve built more custom bikes than I can count, and I travel a lot. Been to almost 80 countries, many of them with my bike. Once I had kids, trying to juggle strollers, car seats, tons of luggage,...
Hey everyone!

I’m a lifelong cyclist: road, gravel, MTB, TT, city bikes, you name it! I’ve built more custom bikes than I can count, and I travel a lot. Been to almost 80 countries, many of them with my bike.

Once I had kids, trying to juggle strollers, car seats, tons of luggage, and a massive bike box on family vacations became a complete nightmare. I got so frustrated having to choose between bringing my bike or keeping my sanity that I finally decided to do something about it. I was sick of paying oversized baggage fees, stressing over whether my carbon frame would get crushed or lost by airline handlers (both happened multiple times), and renting massive (read: expensive) minivans just to get from the airport to the hotel. I wanted a real, uncompromising road/light gravel bike that I could actually take anywhere without the massive headache and cost.

That’s how my new company "Moalani Travel Bikes" was born this January!

THE CONCEPT
To solve all this, I decided to develop a folding titanium travel road bike designed to pack tool-free right into a standard, large check-in suitcase, along with my other clothes. I didn't want just a shrunken-down commuter bike; I wanted a decently capable machine engineered to feel and perform as close as possible to a true road bike. But obviously, some compromises had to be made!

It will sit on 451 wheels: the biggest size you can still just about squeeze into a standard 75x50x30 cm check-in suitcase. We chose a titanium frame because it can take a serious beating from baggage handlers and kept the weight around 8 kg. It'll be set up with a sleek 1X drivetrain and wireless SRAM AXS electronic shifting (custom builds will also allow for 100% mechanical, no worries!).

To keep things totally bomb-proof, it will roll on carbon tri-spoke wheels so you never have to deal with a busted spoke. Plus, 451 spokes are impossible to source, especially in remote places. The other two reasons for going with tri-spokes are so that a) you can more easily pack other clothes in and out of the bag and b) to allow for enough clearance when the rear wheel is folded in (spoked wheels won't allow for that, especially on the non-drive side). So, tri-spokes are not an aesthetic choice; it's a 100% functional choice. Other than that, we chose to go with trusted and pretty standard components.

PROBLEMS I WANTED TO SOLVE
I really wanted to engineer all the friction out of traveling with a bike. Moalani bikes will eliminate oversized luggage fees, which means you don't have to upgrade to an expensive SUV/van at the airport just to fit your bike. It will feature an instant, tool-free rear triangle fold so you can throw it straight into the trunk of a taxi or a rental car even if it's not packed up. Breaking it down completely to pack will take under 15 minutes, and you seriously won't need a single tool (it's all done with quick releases). You never even have to remove the crankset, pedals, cassette, headset, fork, chain, or rear wheel.

Plus, because traveling with greasy parts is the worst, we're heavily focused on waxed chains. It keeps the drivetrain totally dry and clean, meaning you can pack the bike right next to your clothes. But we keep the door open for people who nevertheless want to go with greased chains.

MODELS & TIERS
We've mapped out a few models and tiers (though it's all still a bit in flux): the aero-leaning "Moalani Strato" for pure road speed and the "Moalani Terra" for rougher roads of less developed countries (or: even light gravel). Both models really just differ in a few key areas (handlebar, tires, inner tubes, chain ring size, bar tape thickneess, potentially suspension stem), but are otherwise identical (including the frame).

I will also make it possible to just buy a frame or frame/wheel set to build your own. We plan to provide a very detailed build guide.

Complete bikes will probably come in four tiers: Core, Comp, Pro and Elite ... scaling from hybrid mechanical rim/disc brakes all the way up to fully hydraulic disc setups. SRAM levels will be Rival, mixed Rival/Force or all Force.

Before you ask, "Why rim brake only in the front for the 'Core'?" Well, the front wheel has to come off for packing, and everyone who has ever traveled with disc brake rotors that got bent will know why a rim brake in a suitcase is the best choice. For the rear wheel, this is not relevant, simply because its rotor is a lot more protected by the way it's folded into the rear triangle.

For the drivetrain, we will be offering everything from DIY Silca wax kits and pre-waxed chains to standard factory-greased setups, or you can simply bring your own chain. In fact, we will give you the choice of "Bring your own" for almost all components when you order! I'm a custom builder at heart.

TIMELINE
Right now, we're already deep in the design and CAD phase (Q2/2026) with a mechanical engineer in Germany. Many parts will be 3D-printed in titanium for more design freedom, like the entire bottom bracket and pivot shell area, the dropouts, the seat stay coupler, etc.

We'll be moving to prototyping in Q3 2026, followed by heavy testing in Q4 2026 and refinement in Q1 2027. If we hit our marks, pre-orders will open in Q2 2027, with the official launch and EU deliveries kicking off in Q3 2027. That's our slow timeline, and things may happen faster. I'm working towards a faster timeline, but wanted to be conservative with my estimates.

FEEDBACK
Before locking everything in, I want input from riders like you. Check out the full concept on my website (see my profile)

Even better: Fill out the design feedback survey at the bottom of our website!

Your feedback is literally going to impact the design of this bike. You can also hop on the waiting list or sign up for our newsletter there.

QUICK HEADS-UP
Because things are still evolving, I'm not quite ready to dive into deep Q&As right here in the forum thread, for a couple of reasons:

1. what I say today might change tomorrow! :)
2. I have two young kids with more energy than ten Duracell bunnies combined.
3. I actually do this as a second business and still run my primary business (a software company based in Los Angeles) full-time and remotely from my main home in Valencia, Spain.

I hope you understand.

But if you use the feedback form and drop your deeper questions in the comments section there, I'll do my absolute best to shoot you a personal email. ]]> Folding Bikes moalani https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1321130-building-ultimate-folding-travel-road-bike-i-need-your-design-feedback.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1321094-quick-release-stem.html Wed, 27 May 2026 09:37:14 GMT Hello,

I'm looking for a quick release stem so I can remove the handlebar on a folder in a jiffy.

eBike Parts' "Quick Release Stem – Turtle Neck OG" is out of stock.

Is an alternative available?

Cheers,

--
Edit: Kinda like that Dahon stem


]]> Folding Bikes Winfried https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1321094-quick-release-stem.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1321090-folder-rebuild.html Wed, 27 May 2026 02:46:17 GMT Image: Image: Image: Image: Image: This bike project started innocently enough and then snowballed. About eight years ago my girlfriend asked me to buy her a bike so that we could go riding together. Somehow I got the idea that a folding bike might work, and found this circa 2005...





This bike project started innocently enough and then snowballed. About eight years ago my girlfriend asked me to buy her a bike so that we could go riding together. Somehow I got the idea that a folding bike might work, and found this circa 2005 Schwinn Run-a-bout folding bike.(Schwinn made three items with that name: a StingRay kids bike in the 1960's, a bike trailer, and this folder made by Pacific Cycles.) My girlfriend was not impressed, so it's been sitting in the back room since then. A few months ago I was thinking of taking a trip back East, and the idea of using a folding bike to get around sounded good. I started looking at various folders, and liked the old Dahon Speed TR. They haven't been made for some time, apparently because SRAM stopped making Dual Drive hubs.

I looked at the Runabout, and it actually had fairly decent specs and a solid frame hinge. It had a stock 6-sp cassette that was geared way too high, so I started looking for old parts to make it more useable. On EBay I found a complete Dual Drive 3 hub with X-4 deraileur and shifters that had been stripped off of a Bike Friday. The old rims were 28h, the DD3 hub was 36h, so I built a new set of wheels using Rhyno Lite 36h rims. Most of the other parts were from a bike that I started building during Covid and eventually sidelined. The bike came with a steel steerer post, so it was replaced with an aluminum one that is adjustable. To give it some suspension I sawed off the top handlebar clamp and attached a Meroca suspension stem. The handlebars are Genetic Zygote trekkng bars. There is a set of dense foam sleeves for the bars covered with cotton bar tape for protection. For the seatpost I flipped it upside down and inserted a Suntour NCX suspension post. A 33.9mm post clamp holds it in place. I cut the fluted end off the bottom of the post and added a Litepro landing wheel so the bike could be rolled around when it is folded. The rear rack is a Tortec Epic stainless that fits perfectly. The brakes are Shimano V-brakes with Koolstop pads. The wheels, bottom bracket, and headset are new cartridge bearings.

The new cassette is 11-32t 8-sp, and the front 53t chainring was replaced with a 42t w/Hollowtech bottom bracket. The new gear range is 18-97 gear inches (24 sp). The Dual Drive shifts very smooth. The deraileur jockey wheels were also replaced with oversize ceramic bearing ones.

For panniers I had an old front and rear set of Kirtland bags in bright red that were made around thirty years ago, but are in excellent shape. The rear ones sit too far forward, so I'm modifying them with new Jandd clips. The handlebar bag is a Biria Quatrone that sits on the front platform. The Quatrone is an interesting bag as it easily folds out into a full backpack.

The bike weighs 33 lbs, which is not too bad considering the dual drive hub, racks, and suspension parts. The whole thing folds up nicely and fits into a RhinoWalk travel case designed for a Dahon.

The bike rides and shifts just fine. Small wheeled bikes are slower on the flats and downhill, but have better torque for hill climbing. Looking forward to using it for urban commuting and maybe some light touring. ]]> Folding Bikes andrewstroud https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1321090-folder-rebuild.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320958-tern-link-gearing-success.html Thu, 21 May 2026 10:36:29 GMT My (preowned) Tern Link came with a nice Litepro crankset but a 52t chainring. It rendered both ends of the gear range sub-optimal; I got stuck on hills and never used the smallest cassette sprockets. anyway, long story short. I swapped in a 44t narrow wide chainring (AliExpress, maybe €9?) and... My (preowned) Tern Link came with a nice Litepro crankset but a 52t chainring. It rendered both ends of the gear range sub-optimal; I got stuck on hills and never used the smallest cassette sprockets.

anyway, long story short. I swapped in a 44t narrow wide chainring (AliExpress, maybe €9?) and with the 9-speed 11-32 cassette the gearing is now absolutely perfect.

I don’t run out of gears in an urban setting and can pretty much get up anything local to me.

the bike is rolling on 1.75” Schwalbe Marathon tyres and has a 406 wheelset.

Anyway, this is by far the best 1x9 combination I have found for my needs. I know we’re all different but I thought I would share my joy!




]]> Folding Bikes Barchettaman https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320958-tern-link-gearing-success.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320936-tqiqt-trail-blaze.html Wed, 20 May 2026 01:43:36 GMT Well a nice green frame arrived yesterday!


I was keen on a Birdy after riding one in Japan but they're quite pricey and shipping from Singapore to NZ seemed difficult and expensive and the essential rear rack wasn't in stock. The FN Hon GT 20 also seemed a bit difficult to ship. The FN Hon Storm frames on Ali Express didn't seem to have a pig nose, and having had the Terns for a few years we thought a different fold might be interesting. So we thought we'd try one of these. I did read all the helpful comments on the similar Al Packa including Dave's "neither fish nor fowl" but think this might suit our use (not commuting, not much multi modal, folding for eg car or cab convenience and particularly for overnight security while travelling)


We're now looking at:

- wheels and tyres - thinking 2.4inch tyres for trails

- drivetrain - considering putting the schlumpf on - I really like low gear to be less than 20inches, and it did me well on the Tern in Japan on steep hills, but just a 1x10 is nice and simple

- racks - TQIQT do a rear rack that might work with panniers ok, I'm hoping my Spartan front rack might cope with a wide tyre. The pignose bolt holes don't line up with the Tern luggage truss so I guess its a brompton fit. Might go for a brompton style block - their bags look good, not so sure about their front racks.

- mudguards for those wide tyres


Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

When there is some progress I'll try to post a photo.


Cheers ]]> Folding Bikes MalcolmH https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320936-tqiqt-trail-blaze.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320793-zotta-folding-bike-20-inch-1-3-4-iso-451-a.html Wed, 13 May 2026 22:44:49 GMT I bought a Zotta folding bike at an estate sale. Runs great but needs new tires as it circa 1966 and still has the original tires. I had a bike man put in new tubes to be sure but when he saw the tire size he said he doesn't have them. I cannot find them online.
What I need to know is can I use 20 inch 1 3/8 iso 451? Has anyone else had experience using 1 3/8 vs 1 3/4 on a 20 inch wheel iso 451. The bike is older than me and in better condition than I am except the tires. Tires have dry rot which we discovered when replacing the tubes.
It had been sitting for two years since the previous owner passed on who just happened to be my exact height as the seat and handlebars didn't need to be adjusted.
Its an awesome bike and want to make sure I get the right tires for it. It was made in Argentina. It so old they don't make the bike or these exact tires anymore. This is back when they still knew how to make bikes.
Thank you. ]]> Folding Bikes KennyPass1 https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320793-zotta-folding-bike-20-inch-1-3-4-iso-451-a.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320731-changing-zizzo-liberte-bottom-bracket.html Tue, 12 May 2026 02:13:32 GMT working this to some previous advice.


Quote:
Originally Posted by A2022
It has a hollow spindle, but you’ll have to coach me through this since I know nothing about it. At least I have a basic bike tool kit.
Wonderful!

Buy replacement bearings (make sure same spline size and pattern, and spindle diameter), you'll have choice of colors, and bearing wrench for them. Mine are cheap and plenty durable, but key for durability is maintaining the preload on them.

Take the chain off the chainrings, can still stay on the bike.

Loosen the bolts on the left crank arm. Unscrew and remove the cap on the end of the hollow spindle, it is standard right-hand thread, and may be allen or have a special wrench like mine came with. Remove arm.

Slide right crank arm out, enough to clean the contact surface between the inside of the crank and the right external bearing. Clean both surfaces, doesn't need to be surgical clean, just need to remove any dirt and grit. Clean same surface on left arm and bearing. This is good practice for when you just want to retorque the bearings to maintain proper preload, *critical*, which you should do when any bearing slack is detected, by trying to laterally wiggle the arms near the pedals.

If you are replacing the external bearings, this is when you would do it. You need the correct wrench. Good chance the splines are ISO External, that is the most common, but verify. Buy a quality wrench, read reviews. Mine is all metal, and double-ended and double sided, so has 4 different spline patterns, didn't need immediately, but I'm set for the future. The threading is OPPOSITE of pedals, so left-hand on drive side and right hand on non-drive (left) side. Remove bearings on each side, being careful to look for arrows for "tightening" and go opposite. If really hard to turn, they may be blue loctited; Boil some water and pour over each side right before wrenching, that will soften the loctite. Clean threads and BB shell face. Replace with new bearings. NOTE!!! The fine threads are very easy to cross thread. Here is how to avoid that: Place new drive-side bearing on hollow spindle, threads inward (to face the BB shell threads). Insert into bike (just holding it, not screwing it in). Place non-drive side bearing on spindle, threads inward. Hold each bearing pushed inward gently. The spindle will keep each bearing in alignment as you gently get the threads started by hand. Don't force things, it should thread in easy if aligned. There should be arrows on each bearing to indicate tightening direction, but again left on right, right on left, but be careful, the bearing might say R to indicate Right (drive) side, not thread direction which is LEFT. Remove spindle. Tighten to torque indicated, you may need to covert to english and guestimate your hand force based on wrench length, unless you get a cup wrench with no arm and use a torque wrench.

Slide spindle back in. Put left arm back on, loose, make sure position is 180 degrees opposite of right arm. Torque end cap to indicated value, should be printed on cap. Tighten left arm bolts using torque wrench, alternating as you torque them up.

Done.

The bearings will burnish in, the fine grinding marks on the races becoming smooth. Check for bearing slack weekly over the next months, when slack is detected, follow clean and retorquing procedure, and those bearings will last a LONG time.

EDIT: Some hollow spindle cranks have a little safety strip of metal to keep the left arm on if the bolts come loose. If so, consult maker's instructions online.

**********

I pulled the shaft out and took some photos.








]]> Folding Bikes A2022 https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320731-changing-zizzo-liberte-bottom-bracket.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320660-general-preventive-maintenance.html Sun, 10 May 2026 00:11:27 GMT For the Zizzo beater bike I use on mountain trails, I give it a thorough inspection and cleaning, lubricating all the working hinges for longer life and making any necessary hinge adjustments. Lubing the pedal quick release attachments keeps them fresh. I never use water on my bikes—only lube and a bit of silicone cleaner. A piece of cardboard works great for clearing leaves and small sticks from the groupset. I think this is chain number four for this bike. I replace chains at 75 percent stretch.









]]> Folding Bikes A2022 https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320660-general-preventive-maintenance.html https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320659-drive-wheel-free-rotation.html Sun, 10 May 2026 00:00:53 GMT Drive wheel – free rotation, not too bad for a cheap Zizzo, I think. I replaced the stock bearings with ceramic about a year ago.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...RuQXA0dFlMT2NB





]]> Folding Bikes A2022 https://www.bikeforums.net/folding-bikes/1320659-drive-wheel-free-rotation.html