Adjusting a MTB for zero wrist pressure?
My new Specialized Rockhopper (Size L) seems to fit well despite the foot of seatpost sticking out of the frame. I have comfy full leg extension, and can ride "no hands" without too much effort. When I'm "hands-on-the-bars," however, I seem to have a bit too much pressure on the wrists. After about 45 minutes of riding, the wrists become numb & tingley.
In general, what adjustments do I need to make to the seat, stem, and bars to minimize wrist pressure. I understand that the "rules of road bike fit" specify that the position of seat to cranks are the primary measure of fit, and that once that position is achieved, then stem reach is modified to finalize fit. In fact, I've read a variety of online fit articles & calculators, all of which provide a slightly different "fit."
My problem with all the conventional wisdom is that it strives for efficiency, NOT comfort! I'm willing to sacrifice efficiency to achieve comfort. The "Rivendell" solution is to raise the handlebars. I've got a "comfort" stem on order to try that, and a stem riser + longer stem if the comfort stem isn't enough. I'm not convinced that the Rivendell method is quite what is needed, though.
The most comfortable bike I've ever ridden was my "red racer," a 58cm Outback aluminum racing frame. I could ride that bike, perched comfortably on the seat, with my hands an inch above the handlebars with only the slightest of lower back tension. The handlebars on that bike were well BELOW the seat height! It was the position of the body over the cranks, IMHO, that made the bike fit so well. Unfortunately, being ignorant, I sold the frame before measuring it, and now have no way to go back and recreate the position!