George

Everytime I feel my spokes some of them feel loose, so I just snug them up. So I just ordered the Park tension meter.From reading the mechanics forum they say 19 on the drive side and 14 on the non drive.What I don't know is, is that a road bike and not a loaded bike like you would tour on.I have disk brakes as well. So if the drive side is 19 would I go with 19 on the other side as well. Plus I weigh 200# and I'll probably be carrying,say 35# would the spoke tension be the same. Thanks George

cyclezen

to keep away from too much verbage, don't worry to nitpick the tension. Unless you're loading with hundreds of lbs more than the avg big guy rider, it won;t be critical. Use the tension advised from the mechs forum.
As for trying to attain overall total even tension, that won't happen. Pick a number for the drive side, use that as hand-grenade close, then using a truing stand (OH, yeah truing stand is a good thing). You could use the bike fork and stays as 'truing stands', but then you'll be less hand-grenade close...
I guarantee if you try to set each side to some strict measured 'tension' (on a pre-ridden wheel, not a total new build) it'll be wobblin all over the place. But do try it, itz a fun exercise.
Plenty of good info on wheel buildin out there - I like Jobst Brandt's old book.
and dealing with wheels is one of the most important things anyone can learn about their machina
lettuce no what happens...

Old Hammer Boy

Don't forget to depressurize your tires when you use the tensionometer.

Retro Grouch 

Set the drive side to the optimum that your rim will take. That's usually around 100 to 110 kgf, which probably corresponds to the 19 on your Park tool. The non-drive side specs itself. You simply HAVE to use whatever tension will center the rim between the hub's locknuts.