Equipment to make your bike better?
#1
Boomer
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Equipment to make your bike better?
Do you have a fovorite piece of equipment that we all should know about that makes your bike more "yours".
If its a tire upgrade, gears, a better bar tape, brake pads baskets or even flower decals stuck to the down tube this is the place to let us know about it. Bicycles are not universal, they do not all come set up just right for each of us. What is it that makes you happy.
I'll give you the first contribution. There is a device called a bar tape ring. Its plastic with a slot and single screw in it and it is used to finish the upper end of the bar tape on a road bike handle. You can see it for sale at Colorado Cyclist online or you can find them on Ebay. They are for amateur tapers like me the best way to finish the job.
If its a tire upgrade, gears, a better bar tape, brake pads baskets or even flower decals stuck to the down tube this is the place to let us know about it. Bicycles are not universal, they do not all come set up just right for each of us. What is it that makes you happy.
I'll give you the first contribution. There is a device called a bar tape ring. Its plastic with a slot and single screw in it and it is used to finish the upper end of the bar tape on a road bike handle. You can see it for sale at Colorado Cyclist online or you can find them on Ebay. They are for amateur tapers like me the best way to finish the job.
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The one thing that makes my LWB recumbent mine is the handle bars I had made to fit. I had the high rise bars made 4 1/2 inches taller and rotated the hand grips to match my wrist angle. The changes relieved wrist and forearm tendon pain completely. NO MORE PAIN. Other than that, I have upgraded the drivetrain and wheels. I am partial to nice components, and they are worth the $$$. bk
#3
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Really two things.
The first is the front hub dyanmo. No fuss, no hassle, no batteries to charge -- just hop on the bike and enjoy bright, silent lights in rain, sleet, or snow.
The second are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires. They bring the frequency of flats down to about the same frequency as on your car, which is to say, once in many years.
Paul
(finally walking without crutches and a knee brace today, glancing longingly at his bikes)
The first is the front hub dyanmo. No fuss, no hassle, no batteries to charge -- just hop on the bike and enjoy bright, silent lights in rain, sleet, or snow.
The second are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires. They bring the frequency of flats down to about the same frequency as on your car, which is to say, once in many years.
Paul
(finally walking without crutches and a knee brace today, glancing longingly at his bikes)
#4
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Don't splurge on Zero Gravity's titanium brakes. Besides the fact they cost twice as much and weigh practically nothing, they should be renamed Zero Stopping Brakes as they just don't have much WHOA to them.
Similar advice applies to some lightweight carbon bottle cages. They look good but are just super for helping you to quickly lose your water bottles.
Okay-back to the OP-I'd say my Dura Ace 10 sp Brifters. Just love the positive but smooth feel of the shifts.
Similar advice applies to some lightweight carbon bottle cages. They look good but are just super for helping you to quickly lose your water bottles.
Okay-back to the OP-I'd say my Dura Ace 10 sp Brifters. Just love the positive but smooth feel of the shifts.
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Self made wheelset (Ultegra hubs, Sapim spokes, Velocity Fusion rims), Conti Ultra Gatorskin tire, Ritchey BioMax bars, Brooks leather handlebar tape/wrap, IRD 35 Degree stem, Purely Custom engraved stem cap & bar ends, Brooks Champion Special saddle, and King titanium bottle cage.
#6
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Topolino wheels. Many don't like the looks but I do. About 18,000 miles on them. Never trued. No problems. Smoooooooooooooooth ride. Light weight. Right after I bought mine they went tup $300 a set.
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Not much, really, but I put Speciallized Armadillo Crossroads on my Kaitai and I swapped out the stock pedals for some Shimano M324 SPDs.
#8
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Originally Posted by RockyMtnMerlin
Topolino wheels. Many don't like the looks but I do. About 18,000 miles on them. Never trued. No problems. Smoooooooooooooooth ride. Light weight. Right after I bought mine they went tup $300 a set.
Wow.
#9
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My Cane Creek bar ends - unless you've got drop or otherwise twisty handlebars.
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#10
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The best improvement you can give to any bike is a set of Hand Built wheels. The term does not exist but A "Wheel Smith" is the one you want to build them. Even if you have a top of the range bike with gold plated wheels- then a good wheel builder can tweek them just a bit better.
I have Have Hand built wheels on the MTB and the Tandem and they knock spots off the Expensive "Off the shelf" Sets sold in many shops. They are not that expensive either and in fact my run of the mill usage wheels are cheaper than the OM wheels that are supplied with the bike.
Only bike that does not have the best improvement fitted to it yet is the road bike. I pick those up on Saturday.
I have Have Hand built wheels on the MTB and the Tandem and they knock spots off the Expensive "Off the shelf" Sets sold in many shops. They are not that expensive either and in fact my run of the mill usage wheels are cheaper than the OM wheels that are supplied with the bike.
Only bike that does not have the best improvement fitted to it yet is the road bike. I pick those up on Saturday.
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#11
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One of the best things I bought to make my bike better was cycling shoes. I still ride platforms, but my MTB shoes, even without the clips, made a HUGE difference.
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I've got Specialized S-Works handlebars with the flat tops and unique shape to keep one's hand comfortable. They are too expensive for me to have on all my bikes, but I like them enough I keep looking on e-bay to try and find additional ones I can afford. I didn't believe they would make much of a difference, but they were on the bike when I got it. I was wrong. These things have increased my riding pleasure an incredible amount.
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In order, more or less: A new stem to raise the bars even with the saddle, wider tires instead of those hopelessly inadequate 23mm ones everybody else is stuck on, and a Brooks B17 saddle. Maybe the tires should come first.
#15
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Originally Posted by BSLeVan
I've got Specialized S-Works handlebars with the flat tops and unique shape to keep one's hand comfortable.
Are you referring to these bars, the Specialized S-Works Carbon Fiber XC Flat handlebar? (first pic).
I do like their XC mid-rise bar (second pic)
#16
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Bontrager Race XXX carbon wheels
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50/34 crankset on my road bike.
I know that's a subject that has been discussed to death, but I think that, for my personal use, it might be the best change to a road bike that I've ever made.
I know that's a subject that has been discussed to death, but I think that, for my personal use, it might be the best change to a road bike that I've ever made.
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Originally Posted by cccorlew
Many don't like the look? Huh? They are beautiful!
Wow.
Wow.
#20
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The best change I made was trading the 170cm cranks for 175cm cranks. It's made a world of difference to my legs after a few miles
Everything else is original equipment except the saddle. I've had 3 different saddles and still haven't found "the one". I'm even tempted to try a Brooks
Everything else is original equipment except the saddle. I've had 3 different saddles and still haven't found "the one". I'm even tempted to try a Brooks
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The second are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires. They bring the frequency of flats down to about the same frequency as on your car, which is to say, once in many years.
#22
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1) KoolStop salmon brake pads; KoolStop salmon brake pads; KoolStop salmon brake pads; KoolStop salmon brake pads;
2) Custom gearing, to give me the range I need with the tight progression I crave. My favorites:
commuter: 45-42 / 13-15-17-20-23-26 (half-step)
Bianchi: 50-42 / 14-16-18-20-23-26 (1.5-step)
mountain bike: 48-40-24 / 13-15-17-19-22-24-26 (1.5-step plus grannie)
3) Brooks saddles
Did I mention KoolStop salmon brake pads?
2) Custom gearing, to give me the range I need with the tight progression I crave. My favorites:
commuter: 45-42 / 13-15-17-20-23-26 (half-step)
Bianchi: 50-42 / 14-16-18-20-23-26 (1.5-step)
mountain bike: 48-40-24 / 13-15-17-19-22-24-26 (1.5-step plus grannie)
3) Brooks saddles
Did I mention KoolStop salmon brake pads?
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#24
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In 30 years of cycling, these are my fave additions:
Lower Gearing
Higher Handlebars
Cork Handlebar Tape
A Good Floor Pump (used the crummiest pump for years. What a revelation!)
Park Multi-Tool (Or any Park Tool)
Shimano SPD Sandals
Phil Wood Hubs
Lower Gearing
Higher Handlebars
Cork Handlebar Tape
A Good Floor Pump (used the crummiest pump for years. What a revelation!)
Park Multi-Tool (Or any Park Tool)
Shimano SPD Sandals
Phil Wood Hubs
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#25
Senior Member
I bought one of these a couple weeks ago. I really like the temp, altimeter, and grade features.
https://www.vdocyclecomputer.com/en/p...ionen/?flash=1
https://www.vdocyclecomputer.com/en/p...ionen/?flash=1