tsl

I'm in my second season of cycling and am looking for help in specifying the build for a wheelset. I'm posting here because it's most likely I'll get a sensible answer here.

In "Road" they'll tell me to shave all possible grams, in "Commuting" they'll say to have them built of cast iron and in "Bike Maintenance" the discussion will broaden my choices rather than narrow them.

I've decided to buy a set of custom wheels from Mike Garcia at oddsandendos.com. I've asked him these same questions and hope his advice will match that here.

I bought a second-hand Trek 1000 earlier in the year. I love, love, love the lighter wheels as compared to those on my hybrid. The wheels that came on it, Vuelta Airline2s, are about shot. They don't hold a truing and the front one looks and feels a little flexy over bumps. The one thing I like about the bike's current wheels is the blue color.

I will be ordering a set based on the Velocity AeroHead rims in blue powdercoat. Other than Shimano 8-speed and silver for everything else, I don't know enough to choose spokes, spoke count and nipple material.

I'm using the bike for fair-weather commuting, recreational and club rides. Most of my riding is urban, city streets, (even the club rides). Frost heaves and potholes are the norm. I try to avoid them, but sometimes... I've never been one to baby equipment, but I also don't beat on it either.

I run Continental Ultra GatorSkins in the 25mm width at 95-100 in the front, and 105-110 in the rear.

I like climbing and sprinting. My commutes effectively work out to a series of sprints. As it turns out, despite my age, 50, and weight, 170 or so, I'm generally the best climber, or among the best, in any group I ride with. I generally climb seated, and spinning. I figure God invented triples for a reason, and I have no qualms about using the granny ring. However, I'm running a 13-23 on the rear instead of the stock 12-28.

I generally average 16-18 MPH on rides. This is improving, but I doubt I'll ever be one of the fast guys. My commutes range from 1.5 to 12.5 miles each way, solo recreational rides in the 25 to 40 mile range, and club rides in the 20 to 30 mile range. I'm planning on a very hilly century next month, and a week of metric centuries in rolling terrain in July.

Based on this, which spokes, nipples and spoke count do you recommend?

Nipple choices are aluminum or brass and spoke choices are:
Front: 14/15/14 or 14/17/14, in 24, 28 or 32 count.
Rear: 14/15/14, 14/17/14, or a mix of 14/17/14 on non-drive side, 14/15/14 on drive side and 28 or 32 count.

Weight for this wheelset would range from 1530 to 1826 depending on the build. I'm looking for a nice balance between weight and strength.

Any thoughts?

maddmaxx 

I think that you have the design pegged. Either of your spoke choices DB or Revolution will produce an good wheel on those rims. Standard Shimano Hubs are inexpensive, adjustable and at the Ultegra level are sealed well enough to keep water out and grease in. I think that I would stick with 32 spokes and brass nipples because you want to run these wheels year around. I really like to play with the aluminium nipples on the wheels I build, but one of my wheelsets (sold to a friend) suffered nipple failure due to salt corrosion on 4 of 5 consecutive nipples. (performance wheel used on a commuter bike, run through salt in the snow and then parked long enough to let the nipples on the bottom of the wheel corrode.)

This is pretty much a standard set of fast training/sport wheels and should provide good performance for years.

stapfam

Just go to an expert and pass him the cheque book.

Couple of points though- Radial spoked wheels can give you a harsh ride- For a little bit of comfort it is better if you have the spokes crossed x 2 so that will probably cut out the low spoke wheels. Spokes should be a quality spoke and double butted. On the Nipples- I would go Brass. Give it a couple of years with aluminium and they will sieze when adjustments are necessary and have to be replaced if you ever flatten them.

Three ways- for a quality wheel with Bling- Mavic Krysiums in some form///// Or go as I did and get a wheel that will last. Get what the serious riders (Those that use Krysiums for the main events) would call a training wheel. I have 105 hubs, 36 double butted spokes and Mavic CXP 33 rims.Weight is 1780 grammes and they transformed the bike. Third way is to find a wheel builder. Hand built wheels are the only way to go but he will want to know how you ride- what you want and price.

The route I went was the training wheel and it transformed the bike. Put 3 mph on my average speed- gave me a wheel that I can do 50 miles on every ride and I have confidence in them. The LBS loaned me a set of Krysiums and the top speed was up a bit more, but not for long.They are a very stiff radial spoked wheel and on our roads gave me a beating after 30 miles. Might go for a set in the future though as I finally have the saddle sorted.

Those top rate wheels look good- but are they worth it with the type of riding you are doing. The training wheel wheel will be strong and take most of the knocks you can give them and if they can't then any LBS can sort them for you. They will be lighter than your current setup and be of better quality. Then don't forget that a couple of 23 tyres and tubes are going to put extra expense on the wheels so budget for those aswell.

BluesDawg

If you have asked the wheelbuider, you have already followed the advice I would give.

Retro Grouch 

So you're hopeing that Mike Garcia's advice matches the opinions of a bunch of people like me?

abqhudson

My guess 32 spokes fornt and rear for everyday.

Jim

Jet Travis

You shouldn't be asking for advice. You should be giving it.

Louis

I bought a set of Velocity Aeroheads from Mike last year. I love 'em. He was very helpful in desigining the build to suit me and my riding. I would go with his advice if I were you.

Just a thought...why not go with a nice light wheelset from Mike for recreational riding and pick up a heavier, more robust used wheelset on ebay for commuting? You could put 28mm tires on for those bad roads you mentioned.

tsl

Thanks, all. I guess I'm just nervous, never having ordered wheels before. Plus, to me, these wheels are a *lot* of coin. Whenever I'm in this situation I tend to ask lots of people the same question and listen to the answers.

If I don't hear back on the email, I'll give him a call tomorrow.

As for other options, I already have a whole 'nother bike for foul-weather commuting and heavy-duty stuff. There are certain neighborhoods where I won't ride the Trek because of the street conditions. Two sets of wheels for the Trek is out of the budget, since I have to buy wheels for the foul-weather bike this year too, and will be switching it to disc brakes. Plus, my favorite club rides are also on the same or similar city streets as my commutes, so there's not much advantage to two sets for the same conditions.

I had originally leaned towards a set of Ksyrium Elites, but a seven-year-old Trek 1000 isn't exactly a bling bike. It's interesting to hear about the harsh ride quality of the Ksyriums. That may cause them to not make the cut on the bling bike I plan to build this winter or next.

True, this wheelset is about the same price as the Mavics, (at least while the Mavics are currently on sale) but hopefully they won't scream "Poseur!" Plus, I really like the blue powdercoat on the current wheels, and so do most other people who have seen the bike. It's that I can replace these wheels with new ones in blue powdercoat that's really driving this purchase.

And yes, RG, I may not always agree with your opinion, but I always respect it.

thalver

I'm far from qualified to give advice...but you asked.

I'd stay away from the AL nipples on a general purpose wheelset...they are hard to build with, and harder to maintain. It is always during that last minute, improptu wheel truing when they will crush and leave you in the lurch.

It has been a longer time than I care to admit since I've worked in a bike shop, but in the years I haunted them, I don't know that I ever saw spokes fail anywhere other than at the end. (Unless something went into the wheel) So, if price isn't prohibitive, I'd be inclined to go with the more radically butted spokes. 14/17/14. If your wheelbuilder thinks you are that strong a rider, maybe a heavier spoke on the drive side is in order. (probably unnecessary)

As for spoke count, I dont think you need 32s for the front....I'd go with one of the lower spoke counts there....on the rear, I'd again defer to your wheel builder.