Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    ReNewing Rider
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Burbank, CA
    My Bikes
    old 10-speed...
    Posts
    59
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Seat Tilt Adjustment

    Should be simple, right? Unfortunately it seems like the parts are welded together. I emailed Trek and even sent a pic of the seat postL



    The Trek guy told me the tilt is adjustable and it's just stuck. Boy, is it stuck! I took the seat off but the grooved parts won't come apart. I'm afraid to damage it and haven't had a chance to get to the LBS yet. Anyone seen a situation like this? Is the tilt actually adujstable or did the Trek rep mislead me? If so, any suggestions to coax the pieces apart without damage?

  2. #2
    SSP
    SSP is offline
    Software for Cyclists SSP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Redding, California
    My Bikes
    Trek 5200, Specialized MTB
    Posts
    4,618
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Have you tried loosening the vertical bolt? It's probably a 5 mm. Loosen it enough and you should be able to adjust the tilt.
    CycliStats.com - Software for Cyclists
    WeightWare.com - Weight Management Software

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,252
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Loosen the allen bolt. The metal plates may have gotten a bit "stuck" to each other, so after the allen bolt is loose, take your hand and slap the bottom of the saddle.

    Getting a saddle "dead level" can be a bit tricky, because as you tighten the allen bolt, the saddle can shift a bit. Tighten slowly, and if the saddle goes off level, stop and level it again before fully tightening the bolt.

  4. #4
    Banned. The Weak Link's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Post-partisan Paradise
    My Bikes
    GF Wahoo '05, Trek T1000 '04, Lemond Buenos Aires '07
    Posts
    4,936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Maybe drip some Liquid Wrench in the grooves and lay the saddle on its side. Repeat a few times if necessary.

  5. #5
    OnTheRoad or AtTheBeach stonecrd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Weston, FL
    My Bikes
    Ridley Noah RS, Scott CR1 Pro
    Posts
    2,161
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Check around, maybe a search in the forum, I think I have read that vinegar will dissolve oxidized aluminum. If that is the case just drip some between the parts then use a screw driver to carefully pry them a part. I don't think liquid wrench will work well since I don't think it acts on aluminum just steel.
    The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard and the shallow end is much too large

    2013 Noah RS

  6. #6
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    23,099
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by alanbikehouston
    Loosen the allen bolt. The metal plates may have gotten a bit "stuck" to each other, so after the allen bolt is loose, take your hand and slap the bottom of the saddle.

    Getting a saddle "dead level" can be a bit tricky, because as you tighten the allen bolt, the saddle can shift a bit. Tighten slowly, and if the saddle goes off level, stop and level it again before fully tightening the bolt.
    We have a BINGO! Forget the ammonia and liquid wrench, this"ll do it.

  7. #7
    Senior Member RoMad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Citrus county Fl.
    My Bikes
    Litespeed Tuscany , Lemond Poprad, 1970's Motobecane Grand Record
    Posts
    778
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Once you have loosened the allen bolt, and applied a lubricant I would not try to pry it apart with anything steel. You will scratch it up at best. If it requires some type of force other than hitting the seat with your hand, I would put a piece of wood against the top half and hit the wood (not to hard) with a hammer. If it still doesn't come apart pretty easily I would take off the seat, take the seat post out of the bike and clamp the top piece securely in a vice with the post pointing up and then using the block of wood against the bottom half hit it harder.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Terrierman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SWMO
    Posts
    3,125
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd take the seat post off the bike, take seat all the way off and smack the stubborn part with a wooden mallet. Hitting the seat will only make your hand sore. And a little dab of silicone grease on it when you put it back together will keep it from siezing up again.
    It's all downhill from here. Except the parts that are uphill.

  9. #9
    Spelling Snob Hobartlemagne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Plano, Texas
    My Bikes
    Panasonic DX4000, Bianchi Pista
    Posts
    2,863
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ive had that exact problem before. I used a hammer with a wide flathead screwdriver to get it off. Make sure to loosen the bolt, and place the screwdriver end against the grooved part.

    The first rule of flats is You don't talk about flats!

  10. #10
    Hypoxic Member head_wind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    544
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Given how clean and new that looks I'd say that "cold forming" between
    the steel screw and the aluminum "top piece" (for lack of a word) is very
    unlikely. I'd bet that it is overtorqued and not lubed. My recommendation
    is that old R&R song, "Twist and Shout".

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,901
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If the seat can be removed, smack the stuck part with a rubber mallet or wooden mallet. It should come free. If that does not work, try something like WD-40 as a loosening agent. Then try again.

  12. #12
    ReNewing Rider
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Burbank, CA
    My Bikes
    old 10-speed...
    Posts
    59
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks everyone, problem solved! I removed the seat, lubed the seams w/3-in-One, and used a 2x4 block and hammer. It took two good wacks but the pieces parted w/o damage. I hadn't tried that before because I was unfamiliar with this type of tilt adjustment and wondered if the grooves were "for show" (i.e. made cheap in china).

    Is a bit of oil good enough before torquing back down? I have some bearing grease in the garage but is that overkill?

  13. #13
    Banned. The Weak Link's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Post-partisan Paradise
    My Bikes
    GF Wahoo '05, Trek T1000 '04, Lemond Buenos Aires '07
    Posts
    4,936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by stonecrd
    I don't think liquid wrench will work well since I don't think it acts on aluminum just steel.
    I meant to say to smear KY jelly all over it.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Terrierman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SWMO
    Posts
    3,125
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Steel and aluminum tend to sieze when in contact with each other. I would lube threads with a dab of grease and both sides of the grooved aluminum part. That way you will never ever have problems with them sticking together again. Plus it will be a lot easier on the threads when you torque everything back down.
    It's all downhill from here. Except the parts that are uphill.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Terrierman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SWMO
    Posts
    3,125
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by The Weak Link
    I meant to say to smear KY jelly all over it.
    You would!
    It's all downhill from here. Except the parts that are uphill.

  16. #16
    Time for a change. stapfam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
    My Bikes
    Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
    Posts
    19,915
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I know I have a down on it but that "B" word appears to be on the Post.
    How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.


    Spike Milligan

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •