Digital Gee

FINALLY got a chance to ride Ruby Roubaix with her new pedals and after having everything fitted by the LBS.

Doggone it! Now after five miles my feet tingle, my boys tingle, and I'm going to have to tweak everything again. I almost wish I hadn't let them do a "proper" fitting! I don't *think* it's the new pedals with the fancy pins and everything, but who knows. They moved the saddle up toward the front a little, and raised the seat a little.

Sigh...

On a related note, after 2,500 miles without a mirror, I decided to try the Take a Look eyeglass mounted mirror. Works okay, but I'm not thrilled. I'm going to look for a big 2-3" mirror that I can somehow mount on the left hand drops sticking out. Much more visible to me, and in keeping with my inner Fred anyway.

Jet Travis

I don't care what anyone says. Don't take 350 pounds of torque to your boys.

George

With all the knee problems I've had, I was wondering how you could set a platform pedal up. Everytime you ride, your feet could be in a different place. I was really having a hard time adjusting mine and I moved them every which way. I finally measured my legs and my right leg is almost an inch shorter than my left. I guess I'm stuck with the clipless, but I don't mind them. I'm pretty much dailed in now and it feels great.

CrossChain

DeeGee........take heart and hang in there...as you will of course. I've been out riding my bike up and down the street at 1:00 am in past years (Heaven knows what the neighbors think.) as I've struggled getting dialed in. In the end (quite literally), fitting rules are subjective and general rules are often modified in their application to individuals. You just have to play around till you get it right. Persevere.

Don't give up on glass frame mounted mirrors after one try. I've used all and find them, for me, the best-- and Take A Look is the best mirror I've used. Bar end mirrors, to me, are a pain: the image jiggles, they catch your hand, you have to look down. Getting used to mirrors is like getting used to bifocals: It just takes time till the movement gets automatic. But for city riding... I think they're a must.

Did they give reasons why they adjusted your saddle forwards and higher?

Old Hammer Boy

Couldn't agree more. Stick with that take-a-look. It takes a bit of time to get used to it, but offers such great flexability. You can scan any given area and not only look directly behind you, but a bit side-to-side also. Don't be afraid to bend it some to obtain the best view, it's almost impossible to damage. Play with it, adjust it, ride with it, and you'll learn to love it.

jab1362

+1 on the take-a-look, I never leave home without it!!

bkaapcke

Gee, getting a new ride dialed in takes a while, and some experimentation. This is my 3rd season on my LWB recumbent and it is finally right on the money. Be patient, and try minor changes out while on the road. Bring the right allens to make the adjustments you are working on that day. Work on one thing at a time. One problem with LBS fits is that they adjust things for optimal performance by young riders. After 50, it's different. bk

George

+1, I played with mine for 7 months and finally got it. Now I'll know what to do with my next one.

Beverly

Another +1. It took me almost 500 miles on the new bike before I finally got it adjusted. For me it took a longer crank, new shoes and saddle. I just finished a few days where I rode 50+ miles and I never experienced any pain from the bike

Retro Grouch 

I'd try lowering your saddle but only a "skosh". Maybe 1/4 inch and see how that feels.

CrossChain

[QUOTE=Digital Gee;4981005] my boys tingle, and I'm going to have to tweak everything again. QUOTE]

If we've told you once, we've told you more, DG......you've gotta get those boys in line: a firm hand and don't spare the rod. If not, they'll just give you trouble when they're older. I mean, you have to be able to take them out in public and introduce them to others without being embarassed.

Big Paulie

I thought DG had daughters. But now we learn he has boys too?

maddmaxx 

Don't be afraid of trying the 3" mirror either. They do not "shake" when mounted properly and with a slightly convex lens the view is about the same as the left side mirror on a car. The Mountain Mirricycle seems to work well as it is mounted on a stalk so it can be angled up and out from the bar end. The stalk is much more adjustable and stable than the Cateye version.

This will generate almost as passonate argument as clippless vs platforms. Unfortunately you will have to try both to make up your own mind. Neither one costs all that much.

Now, the question. After spending so much time adjusting the bike to be comfortable, why did you let someone else readjust it for you?

tlc20010

Here is what you need....
https://www.truckchamp.com/index.asp?...D&ProdID=29233

You'll probably have to work out the aerodynamics to keep your speed up.

Beverly

My first attempt at wearing a glasses mounted mirror was a couple years ago and I hated it so I went back to the bar end mirror. I was constantly adjusting the bar end mirror and decided to give the eye glasses mirror another try this year. It took a couple weeks but I now wonder how I ever lived without it.

Some of the problems I had with the bar end mirror was the road vibration, hitting it with my knee when turning, hitting it when I got on/off the bike, etc. It was constant adjustments...

How long did you try it? It does take time to get used to them. I now find myself looking for the mirror even when I'm not on the bike

George

That's a good looking mirror, I bet it would look good on a bike.

cccorlew

I think our bodies take a while to adjust to a new bike. The bike may be fitted for you, you just aren't used to it yet. Remember that pain in the butt feeling when you first started riding? Gone now, right?
Give yourself a few hundred miles, then tweak.
And maybe your boys will enjoy a bit of tingling....

Part 2: Again, give the mirror a week or two. Wear it every time. After that, if you go without it you'll really miss it.

Part 3: If none of this works, can I have your bike?

Terrierman

Have you ever considered clipless pedals? I understand they really help with the tingley foot problems.

maddmaxx 

bcoppola

That was naughty. Cruel, even. And uncalled for.

Wish I'd thought of it.

OTOH and seriously, if the "boys" are tingling that's not good. That's not something to "get used to", it's nerve irritation that could lead to damage. Lower the nose of the saddle a bit to start. You, not an "expert" at the LBS, are the best judge of your bike's fit.

And go back to the LBS & tell them your problems, including the feet.

BSLeVan

Once I've got a bike dialed in, I tend to be very clear with the LBS that they are not to change things should I have to get work done in their shop. It's strange that the absolute smallest change can make such incredible differences in ride comfort and efficiency. I hope you get the Ruby back where you want it sooner vs. later.

Digital Gee

Because it was included in the price of the bike, and I didn't want to miss anything that was free! Now that I think about it, I was pretty stoopid. I had the bike pretty dialed in. I guess I thought they could dial it in even farther, which makes no sense, now that I stop and think about it.

Having said that, if the bike was dialed in, it can be REdialed in.

The one comment the wrench made that still bothers me was that I had the saddle back about as far as it would go, and he was concerned that it would be almost dangerous in terms of potentially breaking the rails on which it sits being that far back. Then he did some measurements and brought it forward to where it is now.

Is this a real issue? I want to move it back again. Or do I need a different seatpost to keep it back that far?

cyclezen

I think its been mentioned before.

Once a bike is set to a 'position', measurements need to be taken.
Then when any adjustment (like adjustment or new equipment,shoes) is made, changes to these 'measurements' should be noted.
This assures you can get 'back' to where it was before the adjustment, should it not be an improvement.
OR
compensate/change the position measurements recorded to the 'new' numbers because the change was an 'improvement'.
If you're making adjustments, or letting others do that, without actually noting what the change is, you're flyin in the dark and future adjustments to new equipment or new bikes will be a roll of the dice.
As for what to measure, its been tossed around BF, ad infinitum.

CrossChain

Gary, being new to a full road bike, and it being a new bike of almost religious sanctity, and you considering yourself mechanically not adept....you reverence the bike too much. It's, after-all, a mechanical contraption meant to serve you. It's really OK to mess with the adjustments to suit yourself. Fitting rules are generalizations that work in the generic sense. But each of us is individual. Have you considered moving things back to where you think they were. Maybe even one thing at a time: seat height, or angle, or fore/aft. Carefully measure, and then make experimental changes in small increments....maybe even 1/2 cm. Record all your changes so you'll know what works and, finally, when you dial it in, you'll be able to change your saddle and return to the dial-in.

Those hex bolts won't wear out. Everybody who has ridden for a while has put in hours to find what works for them. The guys at the LBS didn't measure you or really know your riding style.

Get a hex wrench and start playing with it...you'll learn a lot and "the boys" will get it together, too.

Beverly

It probably weighs as much as some of the bikes we ride