Motorad

I'm putting Sram X.9 gripshifters & rear derailleur on my Trek (with Ultegra 12-27 nine speed). The chain I ordered is the Sram PC-971, which is nickel plated only on the outer chain links. However, there was a comment on the thread below, that chains that have both inner and outer chain links nickel plated will endure salt-conditions. Any truth in that?

If anything, I'll be contacting my LBS, and request they get me a 9-speed chain that has all links nickel plated. I don't anticipate putting more than 500 miles/year on the Trek, so the rust issue would probably be a bigger issue than the chain-stretch issue.

Now, of the three PC991 nine-speed chains that Sram offers? Are there any benefits in getting one of the higher grade PC991 chains ... the "cross-step" or the "hollow pin" chains?

< https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ighlight=PC991 >

< https://www.sram.com/en/srammountain/...peed/index.php >

John E

I don't think you can go wrong with any SRAM chain which is appropriate for your application.

BlazingPedals

I like the looks of the nickel-plated chains, but I haven't noticed much difference in durability. I'm using a plain old gray one right now.

BluesDawg

I buy less expensive chains and change them more often. SRAM was my standby, but lately I've been using KMC with good results.

oilman_15106

The only better choice would be a Connex stainless chain but $$$$$.

BSLeVan

I buy whatever is on sale. I must confess to not noticing any appreciable difference in performance and/or chain life with any of the chains I've used over the last few years. I find that if I keep 'em lubricated and get rid of them when they stretch they've all worked about the same. I've even run 10 speed chains on a 9 speed set-up with no issues. Concerning the salt/rust issue. I'd be surprised if the nickel plated links make as much difference as wiping down the chain and keeping it lubricated with something that also fights rust. Not all of today's lubes do that. For instance, I like the ProLink Chain Lube, but it doesn't deter rust. On the other hand, I've found that the Dumond Tech Chain Lube does a great job of resisting rust, but is a pain to put on (your chain must be absolutely clean and free of solvents before it adheres).

Pat

I like the SRAM chains and have had good luck with them. I get the cheap ones. But then again I do not have the problem of salt and ice living in central Florida. I used to ride in the winter in Michigan and I don't recall any notable problems. I would get a chain gauge (simple ones are cheap and accurate) and clean the chain frequently and check it for wear. If the cheap one works well, go with it. If it wears out fast, try the more expensive one.

stapfam

Chains are what you prefer and that you trust. I personally only use Shimano but that was brought about by bad experiences with Sram. (Putting a new chain on worn cassette and rings caused it to jump but a new shimano did not cause the same problem)

There are many good chains out on the market and it is up to you to find what you like. It has taken me many years to get one but it does not matter what chain you use- Providing it is not too worn. The only way to check that is to measure with a ruler or get a chain wear tool to keep your eye on it.

BluesDawg

Pure luck IMHO.
You could expect any new chain to to jump if you run it on worn cassette cogs and chainrings. Best to replace the chain before it wears enough to wear out the other parts of the drivetrain. Otherwise you end up replacing all of it.