Help for New Rider 53 YO
#1
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Help for New Rider 53 YO
I have run for about 30 years now and am looking to do some cycling to supplement my running. I plan on riding at least once a week for an hour for fitness and possibly doing a longer ride with my son this summer. My budget looks to be about $2000.00 to get started. I plan on about $1500.00 for a road bike and maybe another $500.00 for shoes, pedals, shorts/tights and other accessories.
My past riding experience has been MTBs but not for about 10 years now. Definitely new to road cycling and will go to LBS to try many bikes.
Does this budget sound reasonable?
Of the mentioned accessories/stuff what is the minimum and most important?
My past riding experience has been MTBs but not for about 10 years now. Definitely new to road cycling and will go to LBS to try many bikes.
Does this budget sound reasonable?
Of the mentioned accessories/stuff what is the minimum and most important?
#2
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I don't know your financial status, but that seems a little high to me. The general rule of thumb is your first bike (or first road bike) is supposed to teach you what you want or need on your second bike (or second road bike).
It was six months exactly between my first road bike and my second. It's only because I didn't overspend on the first that I could afford the second so soon. The second has completely different geometry from the first--something you can't accomplish with upgrades.
It was six months exactly between my first road bike and my second. It's only because I didn't overspend on the first that I could afford the second so soon. The second has completely different geometry from the first--something you can't accomplish with upgrades.
#4
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I don't know your financial status, but that seems a little high to me. The general rule of thumb is your first bike (or first road bike) is supposed to teach you what you want or need on your second bike (or second road bike).
It was six months exactly between my first road bike and my second. It's only because I didn't overspend on the first that I could afford the second so soon. The second has completely different geometry from the first--something you can't accomplish with upgrades.
It was six months exactly between my first road bike and my second. It's only because I didn't overspend on the first that I could afford the second so soon. The second has completely different geometry from the first--something you can't accomplish with upgrades.
It did take me a year before I got my decent bike- I must be a slow learner- but that first bike is important. It will teach you how to ride- it will teach you that you got the wrong bike whatever you get but it will also show you what sort of bike you want. So the second choice will be better- And the 2nd choice will show you what the 3rd one will be.
one I can recommend- and so could quite afew others on the forum- is a Giant OCR3. Not a top rate bike but does work. Follow the link below to it.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/...ad/1243/29271/
But another in your price value is
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/...ad/1237/29255/
On the other side of accessories- Helmet, glasses, gloves, shorts, jersey and top coat. If you are not carefull- that will take care of the $500 but don't get the shoes and pedals yet- Give it a few months before you get those. Then on the bike- Pump- spare tube- levers- and patch kit in a small under saddle wedge. Then there are the ride expenses- Don't forget that Pie and coffee is obligatory on this forum so make allowances for that aswell.
Edit- Or you can do what I should have done and sell the kids to buy the bike you really want.
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#5
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When I was fitted for my first road bike I was treated like I was at the
ophthalmologist (sp?): is A better or is B better?? At the ophthalmologist
I could tell. At the bike shop I didn't always know. That is why I needed
competent help to fit me. I think that proper fit is a big deal.
ophthalmologist (sp?): is A better or is B better?? At the ophthalmologist
I could tell. At the bike shop I didn't always know. That is why I needed
competent help to fit me. I think that proper fit is a big deal.
#6
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Life is too short to ride cheap bikes.... as someone on this forum has said before. $1500 can buy you a pretty decent road bike; one that could last a few years, or until you get bitten by the "I've gotta get a new bike" bug. Personally, I'd look at the Jamis line. They often have great bikes with component packages typically found on higher end bikes. I'm sure others would disagree, but I think you should be looking at a bike with nothing less than Shimano 105 componets in this price range. And as others will confrim, fit really is very, very important.
#7
Sore saddle cyclist
I also wouldn't spend less than $1500 for the bike, go to a good bike shop, have them fit you properly, and get as much bike as $1500 will get you (good sale prices now). Your allowance for accessories is about right, think about Speedplay pedals, they don't put stress on your knees like some others might, they ARE worth the money.
Look at Giant, Cannondale and Specialized bikes, they are well made.
Look at Giant, Cannondale and Specialized bikes, they are well made.
#8
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At your price point Jamis would have a few models ,like the Quest steel or the Ventura Elite for example
https://jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_b...turaelite.html
https://jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08quest.html
https://jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_b...turaelite.html
https://jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08quest.html
#9
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I would consider getting a used bike first. Some good deals can be found if you're patient. Then you'll have a better idea what you want before dropping more money.
#10
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If you have 2 grand to spend, that means you have 2-4 grand to spend on another bike setup later on. Spend it while you can. Don't wait and end up with regrets. Used bikes take a while to locate and try out. Go new. Its not the most economical way but don't let time pass you by.
You're disciplined because you're a runner for all those years. So road biking is something you will not quit because you can't handle the workouts.
You're disciplined because you're a runner for all those years. So road biking is something you will not quit because you can't handle the workouts.
#11
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Tglide,
The best (and least expensive) advice I can give you is to find a reputable lbs (local bicycle shop) and get a bike that fits YOU. Trust me when I say that it doesn't matter how much/little you spend on your bike; if it doesn't fit, you'll regret it.
Case in point. I purchased my first road bike (Marin Portofino) at REI on sale with no more fitting that making sure I could stand over the frame. Luckily, with a few adjustments (longer stem, wider bars, seat pushed all the way back, I got close...but it never felt quite right. I kept noticing one hand kept falling asleep while riding long distances, as well as a feeling like I was reaching for the bars. Well, after wrecking my first bike (another story) after almost 4 years of riding, I did it right the second time around and went to the lbs and explained the type of riding I enjoyed. After several trial runs and a custom fitting, I selected a Specialized Roubaix Expert, 3cm larger than my first bike, and couldn't be happier. It's carbon frame/fork and relaxed geometry made my last century ride much easier.
The best (and least expensive) advice I can give you is to find a reputable lbs (local bicycle shop) and get a bike that fits YOU. Trust me when I say that it doesn't matter how much/little you spend on your bike; if it doesn't fit, you'll regret it.
Case in point. I purchased my first road bike (Marin Portofino) at REI on sale with no more fitting that making sure I could stand over the frame. Luckily, with a few adjustments (longer stem, wider bars, seat pushed all the way back, I got close...but it never felt quite right. I kept noticing one hand kept falling asleep while riding long distances, as well as a feeling like I was reaching for the bars. Well, after wrecking my first bike (another story) after almost 4 years of riding, I did it right the second time around and went to the lbs and explained the type of riding I enjoyed. After several trial runs and a custom fitting, I selected a Specialized Roubaix Expert, 3cm larger than my first bike, and couldn't be happier. It's carbon frame/fork and relaxed geometry made my last century ride much easier.
#12
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+1 on fit. it is the most important factor.
About cost using a touring bike as an example: Touring bikes are the pack mules of road bikes. made to carry a lot of weight long distances. One could spend $5,000 outfitting a Waterford Adventure Cycle. And they would have one fine machine. Yet, the bike that has crossed this country more than any other is the Trek 520. Cost: about $1,000. Is the Waterford really 5 times better than the Trek? It is custom made, and utilizes higher end componts. Still, the question isn't whether thee Waterford is 5 times better than the Trek, it's is it better at all? Only to those who beleive those extra dollars will buy them something more.
It's no different with any other aspect of biking. More money isn't always better.
About cost using a touring bike as an example: Touring bikes are the pack mules of road bikes. made to carry a lot of weight long distances. One could spend $5,000 outfitting a Waterford Adventure Cycle. And they would have one fine machine. Yet, the bike that has crossed this country more than any other is the Trek 520. Cost: about $1,000. Is the Waterford really 5 times better than the Trek? It is custom made, and utilizes higher end componts. Still, the question isn't whether thee Waterford is 5 times better than the Trek, it's is it better at all? Only to those who beleive those extra dollars will buy them something more.
It's no different with any other aspect of biking. More money isn't always better.
#13
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+1
A good LBS should be able get you the best fit for the type of riding you will be doing and for your budget.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. I'm thinking that once I start cycling I will stick with it. I have had good help locating an LBS and will plan to pay more for their expertise hoping that if they take good care of me they realize they will have a repeat customer.
Last edited by TGlide; 01-01-08 at 05:06 PM.
#15
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$2000 should be plenty.
But my theory is buy big and enjoy. CF is the way to go.
But my theory is buy big and enjoy. CF is the way to go.
#16
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Naturally it depends on your financial situation, but I would suggest to start with a decent bike to ride for a year or so while learning what you really like/want. Then dig a little deeper in the pocket for the keeper. It is very unlikely that the first bike is going to be the one you stay with. My first road bike as an adult was the equivalent of what sells today for about $700. I kept it a year and spent twice as much for the bike I am still riding today with several changes and upgrades to components along the way. That was 15 years ago.
The reason for the second bike was not that the first one was too cheap, it was that I learned enough about how I liked to ride and how that related to the type of bike I was riding. A year later I knew exactly what I wanted and I knew it was not the bike I was riding. I could not have known that before.
The reason for the second bike was not that the first one was too cheap, it was that I learned enough about how I liked to ride and how that related to the type of bike I was riding. A year later I knew exactly what I wanted and I knew it was not the bike I was riding. I could not have known that before.
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Fit, fit, fit.
The problem with a used bike for someone new to cycling is that you likely have no idea of the frame size and geometry to fit your particular body type. Long legs, short torso requires a different geometry than short legs, long torso. So, what you really want to buy is a good LBS who will assist you with the bike that meets your riding style and body geometry, no matter what you pay for the bike.
I have a Lemond that cost a lot and a Windsor from Ebay, but I bought it only after I knew from the Lemond what my body could live with.
The problem with a used bike for someone new to cycling is that you likely have no idea of the frame size and geometry to fit your particular body type. Long legs, short torso requires a different geometry than short legs, long torso. So, what you really want to buy is a good LBS who will assist you with the bike that meets your riding style and body geometry, no matter what you pay for the bike.
I have a Lemond that cost a lot and a Windsor from Ebay, but I bought it only after I knew from the Lemond what my body could live with.
#18
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I tend to agree on the issue of fit... however, if you buy a compact frame, you have a lot of leeway to getting that perfect fit, in the fact that tweaking the seatpost and the stem you can get pretty much the 'perfect' fit off of a relatively standard frame.
I would agree that you should get no lower than 105 if you go Shimano--ultegra if you can. The 'bang-for-the-buck' for Dura-Ace is not really worth it--. Check the bike shops and see what is on sale in a compact frame. Find the one that is closest to your fit, and then get it 'fitted' to you, or check the archives for bike-fit formulas that take into consideration your inseam, torso etc lengths.
I also feel you should go for the pedals and shoes RIGHT AWAY. There is no reason to deal with straps and cages to get your foot on the pedal. Go with one of the established pedal systems, and you will be happy. You need to do some research to decide what's right for you-- I use Look for my road bike, but SPD on my commuter, because I do have to walk in the shoes with cleats on them. Other options that are good are Speedplay (I didn't like them because there was too much float) and crank brothers (I probably would have gone with these, but I had too much invested in spd's--and I didn't want 3 pedal systems/shoes on 4 bikes).
The last piece of advice I can give you is get the most bike you can afford.
As an aside, be aware that price in itself is not the first thing you should look at. I have found ultegra-equipped bikes for $1000-- and they have been GREAT bikes, you don't get much more by spending $2500 on a bike. Beware of hype due to 'this bike was ridden by so and so...'... Remember-- YOU are the one who will be riding the bike. Also, it is good to be unique-- and be the only guy on your ride with an XXX brand bike-- as opposed to all the Treks and Specialized, or Cannondales out there.
Also, as DG says, STAY AWAY FROM WHITE BIKES
Enjoy your search, and let us know what you end up with
train safe-
I would agree that you should get no lower than 105 if you go Shimano--ultegra if you can. The 'bang-for-the-buck' for Dura-Ace is not really worth it--. Check the bike shops and see what is on sale in a compact frame. Find the one that is closest to your fit, and then get it 'fitted' to you, or check the archives for bike-fit formulas that take into consideration your inseam, torso etc lengths.
I also feel you should go for the pedals and shoes RIGHT AWAY. There is no reason to deal with straps and cages to get your foot on the pedal. Go with one of the established pedal systems, and you will be happy. You need to do some research to decide what's right for you-- I use Look for my road bike, but SPD on my commuter, because I do have to walk in the shoes with cleats on them. Other options that are good are Speedplay (I didn't like them because there was too much float) and crank brothers (I probably would have gone with these, but I had too much invested in spd's--and I didn't want 3 pedal systems/shoes on 4 bikes).
The last piece of advice I can give you is get the most bike you can afford.
As an aside, be aware that price in itself is not the first thing you should look at. I have found ultegra-equipped bikes for $1000-- and they have been GREAT bikes, you don't get much more by spending $2500 on a bike. Beware of hype due to 'this bike was ridden by so and so...'... Remember-- YOU are the one who will be riding the bike. Also, it is good to be unique-- and be the only guy on your ride with an XXX brand bike-- as opposed to all the Treks and Specialized, or Cannondales out there.
Also, as DG says, STAY AWAY FROM WHITE BIKES
Enjoy your search, and let us know what you end up with
train safe-
#19
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Once again, I've been seriously misquoted.
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#20
Senior Member
I did exactly what you're doing, 3 yrs ago at the same age. To me, the dollars are correct. I bought a Trek 2300 aluminum frame, carbon fork, that is now my winter bike. This summer I bought a new carbon frame bike. My Trek fit me well when purchased, and still does. I've been very happy with both bikes.
#21
Senior Member
Bike fit is important but it doesn't need to be that precise. You can read a few books or websites about bike fit, get an idea of what your frame size should be, and find a bike within 2 cm of that size. Since finer adjustments can be made by raising and lowering the seat or changing the stem.
Just as important is having the bike fit the type of riding you do. And this will change over time. A lot of road bicycles sold today come with very narrow tires and have no means or room to attach bags, racks, fenders or pumps. If all of your riding will be done on cloudless days with your significant other following you in a car with food, spares and tools then this would be viable choice.
I recommend finding a versatile bike that will allow you to ride a wide variety of tire widths and allow you to carry stuff. Also look for a bike where the handlebars are somewhere close to the same level as the seat. Bikes like this can be found new in bikeshops if you ask around enough. And there are thousands of bikes designed like this available used from the 70's and 80's that are for sale cheap locally. everywhere. That's what I would start with while you experiment with tire sizes and saddles to figure out what you like and dislike.
Just as important is having the bike fit the type of riding you do. And this will change over time. A lot of road bicycles sold today come with very narrow tires and have no means or room to attach bags, racks, fenders or pumps. If all of your riding will be done on cloudless days with your significant other following you in a car with food, spares and tools then this would be viable choice.
I recommend finding a versatile bike that will allow you to ride a wide variety of tire widths and allow you to carry stuff. Also look for a bike where the handlebars are somewhere close to the same level as the seat. Bikes like this can be found new in bikeshops if you ask around enough. And there are thousands of bikes designed like this available used from the 70's and 80's that are for sale cheap locally. everywhere. That's what I would start with while you experiment with tire sizes and saddles to figure out what you like and dislike.
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks again for the help. Went to LBS and tried a few bikes on for size in my price range. The shop is going to get me a Trek Pilot 2.1. They suggested I try that because of some lack of flexibility in my lower back from all the years of running. I will try that and see if that works. Thanks to all!
#23
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Thanks again for the help. Went to LBS and tried a few bikes on for size in my price range. The shop is going to get me a Trek Pilot 2.1. They suggested I try that because of some lack of flexibility in my lower back from all the years of running. I will try that and see if that works. Thanks to all!
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. Seems like a lot of us old guys are going for Trek Pilots or similar bikes by other manufacturers with slightly different (more upright) geometry.
#25
I need more cowbell.
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If you like the Pilot, you might also take a look at the Specialized Roubaix. I hear it's a wonderful bike.
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