First ride report on the Orange Crush
#1
I need more cowbell.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada
Posts: 8,182
Bikes: 2015 Specialized Sirrus Elite
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
First ride report on the Orange Crush
I've decided that the Peugeot (now known as the Orange Crush) is the bike for my trail riding. I cleaned it up, removed the stiff old clips from the pedals, cleaned and lubed the chain, cleaned the rings, and adjusted the saddle height. Took it for a short spin around the block a few times.
What I like so far about the bike is the quick-release seatpost, the fact that the 36 spoke wheels appear to be true, the steering (good balance of responsive and yet steady-as-she-goes). I hopped a few curbs, no problem.
The brakes seem to work well but the front brake needs a slight alignment adjustment. The only real problem I had is with the front derailleur. It shifted to the small ring readily enough, but it wouldn't shift back to the middle. I could get it to shift to the middle and so long as I kept my thumb on the shifter knob, it stayed there. But as soon as I let go it went back to the small ring. The back derailleur worked fine.
Looks like I need to learn how to adjust the derailleur or perhaps the cables. Quick questions: do cables get lubed? Also, although the inner tubes are holding air, do they "go bad" from just being on the bike and stored (sitting on the floor) for fifteen or twenty years? Seems like common sense would be to replace the tubes even if they're working fine.
By the way, it felt good to bring out my inner Fredness and ride in sweats, sneakers, and a sweatshirt! Just sayin' ...
What I like so far about the bike is the quick-release seatpost, the fact that the 36 spoke wheels appear to be true, the steering (good balance of responsive and yet steady-as-she-goes). I hopped a few curbs, no problem.
The brakes seem to work well but the front brake needs a slight alignment adjustment. The only real problem I had is with the front derailleur. It shifted to the small ring readily enough, but it wouldn't shift back to the middle. I could get it to shift to the middle and so long as I kept my thumb on the shifter knob, it stayed there. But as soon as I let go it went back to the small ring. The back derailleur worked fine.
Looks like I need to learn how to adjust the derailleur or perhaps the cables. Quick questions: do cables get lubed? Also, although the inner tubes are holding air, do they "go bad" from just being on the bike and stored (sitting on the floor) for fifteen or twenty years? Seems like common sense would be to replace the tubes even if they're working fine.
By the way, it felt good to bring out my inner Fredness and ride in sweats, sneakers, and a sweatshirt! Just sayin' ...
__________________
2015 Sirrus Elite
Proud member of the original Club Tombay
2015 Sirrus Elite
Proud member of the original Club Tombay
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grass Valley, CA
Posts: 2,544
Bikes: Time RXRS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Use the adjuster at the base of the shifter (where the cable exits) to adjust the FD.
#3
Bike Junkie
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South of Raleigh, North of New Hill, East of Harris Lake, NC
Posts: 9,622
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Specialized Roubaix, Giant OCR-C, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, Stumpjumper Comp, 88 & 92Nishiki Ariel, 87 Centurion Ironman, 92 Paramount, 84 Nishiki Medalist
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 37 Times
in
27 Posts
Looks like I need to learn how to adjust the derailleur or perhaps the cables. Quick questions: do cables get lubed? Also, although the inner tubes are holding air, do they "go bad" from just being on the bike and stored (sitting on the floor) for fifteen or twenty years? Seems like common sense would be to replace the tubes even if they're working fine.
Tubes can work fine after 20 years or they could lose elastomers over time that cause them to become porous. IF they become porous, they'll work fine on a ride, but will need to be pumped up more often, like say, daily instead of every few days for a new tube.
Are the tires 18-20 years old? Frankly, if the tires are that old, I'd be checking them for dry-rot or cracks. If I was riding them on a trail bike where I was jumping logs etc, I'd replace them, if they were that old.
__________________
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
#4
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
Could be an adjustment issue, but it could be the shifter is worn out. I recently fixed up an old bike for a friend. It has the same type shifters as your bike (but a lower level). I was never able to get the front shifter to work. The detents that hold the shifter in place were worn out and no amount of cleaning or tightening would make it hold a position other than full release (low gear). I ended up using the limiter screw on the front derailleur to force it onto middle ring until I could locate a replacement shifter.
#5
Bike Junkie
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South of Raleigh, North of New Hill, East of Harris Lake, NC
Posts: 9,622
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Specialized Roubaix, Giant OCR-C, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, Stumpjumper Comp, 88 & 92Nishiki Ariel, 87 Centurion Ironman, 92 Paramount, 84 Nishiki Medalist
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 37 Times
in
27 Posts
Dee Gee, If you're looking to determine the exact date of that bike, you can find it by using the component date codes found on www.vintage-trek.com Usually the double letter code found on the derailers are a wealth of information.
I did some research and the bike is older than 1993. Based on the shifters, I'd guess 1991. Nice bike!
I did some research and the bike is older than 1993. Based on the shifters, I'd guess 1991. Nice bike!
__________________
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
#6
Shredding Grandma!
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,803
Bikes: I don't own any bikes
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Another issue to consider - how was the bike ridden and how are you gonna ride the bike (yes yes I know easy trail but...)? The stress of trail or mountain biking is just so much different than road riding not that this suggestion wouldn't apply to road riding as well... but after all the inital maintenance consider replacing the handlebar (and maybe the seatpost) especially if its aluminum. Last thing you want to be doing is going down something alittle steep and rutty and "uh-ho" handlebar cracks!!!! Had this happen to a good friend and he got a nice fx'd collarbone for his lack of mainenance. With a trail bike there really are safety issues ot consider.
Yeah I know, just/free bike will now cost some money. It's worth it in the long run. Just so much cheaper than medical bills!
__________________
______________________________________________________________
Private docent led mountain bike rides through Limestone Canyon. Go to letsgooutside.org and register today! Also available: hikes, equestrian rides and family events as well as trail maintenance and science study.
______________________________________________________________
Private docent led mountain bike rides through Limestone Canyon. Go to letsgooutside.org and register today! Also available: hikes, equestrian rides and family events as well as trail maintenance and science study.