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First ride report on the Orange Crush

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First ride report on the Orange Crush

Old 01-09-08, 03:22 PM
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First ride report on the Orange Crush

I've decided that the Peugeot (now known as the Orange Crush) is the bike for my trail riding. I cleaned it up, removed the stiff old clips from the pedals, cleaned and lubed the chain, cleaned the rings, and adjusted the saddle height. Took it for a short spin around the block a few times.

What I like so far about the bike is the quick-release seatpost, the fact that the 36 spoke wheels appear to be true, the steering (good balance of responsive and yet steady-as-she-goes). I hopped a few curbs, no problem.

The brakes seem to work well but the front brake needs a slight alignment adjustment. The only real problem I had is with the front derailleur. It shifted to the small ring readily enough, but it wouldn't shift back to the middle. I could get it to shift to the middle and so long as I kept my thumb on the shifter knob, it stayed there. But as soon as I let go it went back to the small ring. The back derailleur worked fine.

Looks like I need to learn how to adjust the derailleur or perhaps the cables. Quick questions: do cables get lubed? Also, although the inner tubes are holding air, do they "go bad" from just being on the bike and stored (sitting on the floor) for fifteen or twenty years? Seems like common sense would be to replace the tubes even if they're working fine.

By the way, it felt good to bring out my inner Fredness and ride in sweats, sneakers, and a sweatshirt! Just sayin' ...
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Old 01-09-08, 03:33 PM
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Use the adjuster at the base of the shifter (where the cable exits) to adjust the FD.
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Old 01-09-08, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Digital Gee
Looks like I need to learn how to adjust the derailleur or perhaps the cables. Quick questions: do cables get lubed? Also, although the inner tubes are holding air, do they "go bad" from just being on the bike and stored (sitting on the floor) for fifteen or twenty years? Seems like common sense would be to replace the tubes even if they're working fine.
Some lube their cables with silicone spray or silicone chain lube. I don't unless there binding a little. If the cables are binding quite a bit, I replace them.
Tubes can work fine after 20 years or they could lose elastomers over time that cause them to become porous. IF they become porous, they'll work fine on a ride, but will need to be pumped up more often, like say, daily instead of every few days for a new tube.
Are the tires 18-20 years old? Frankly, if the tires are that old, I'd be checking them for dry-rot or cracks. If I was riding them on a trail bike where I was jumping logs etc, I'd replace them, if they were that old.
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Old 01-09-08, 04:13 PM
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Could be an adjustment issue, but it could be the shifter is worn out. I recently fixed up an old bike for a friend. It has the same type shifters as your bike (but a lower level). I was never able to get the front shifter to work. The detents that hold the shifter in place were worn out and no amount of cleaning or tightening would make it hold a position other than full release (low gear). I ended up using the limiter screw on the front derailleur to force it onto middle ring until I could locate a replacement shifter.
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Old 01-09-08, 04:25 PM
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Dee Gee, If you're looking to determine the exact date of that bike, you can find it by using the component date codes found on www.vintage-trek.com Usually the double letter code found on the derailers are a wealth of information.
I did some research and the bike is older than 1993. Based on the shifters, I'd guess 1991. Nice bike!
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Old 01-09-08, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by roccobike
Are the tires 18-20 years old? Frankly, if the tires are that old, I'd be checking them for dry-rot or cracks. If I was riding them on a trail bike where I was jumping logs etc, I'd replace them, if they were that old.
I don't think there is any issue the tires and tubes should be replaced. That's the first thing you need to do to upgrade the bike. At that age, there is no question there will be problems.

Another issue to consider - how was the bike ridden and how are you gonna ride the bike (yes yes I know easy trail but...)? The stress of trail or mountain biking is just so much different than road riding not that this suggestion wouldn't apply to road riding as well... but after all the inital maintenance consider replacing the handlebar (and maybe the seatpost) especially if its aluminum. Last thing you want to be doing is going down something alittle steep and rutty and "uh-ho" handlebar cracks!!!! Had this happen to a good friend and he got a nice fx'd collarbone for his lack of mainenance. With a trail bike there really are safety issues ot consider.

Yeah I know, just/free bike will now cost some money. It's worth it in the long run. Just so much cheaper than medical bills!
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