stapfam

Looking at that crankset- Think you may have a better bike than even I think you have. Check it out but is it a Deore LX crankset? If it is- I think it will be the one I have been hunting for- for about 5 years. This is not a an MTB compact crankset and is able to take larger rings than those used today.

Will agree that the FD looks as though it is set too high- If you don't feel confident- Get to the LBS and get them to sort it.

fthomas

Awesome photo's

500 x 800 pixels and only 101 kb

Wonderful DG! Those FD's can be a real problem. I really messed the one on my MTB up big time by trying to adjust the barrels as I climbed up a hill. Not good

solveg

Here, DG... come over here and I'll tell you a bedtime story that is guaranteed to make you feel better. That's right, bring your blanket.

I bought new carpet. It was bad. Got the replacement carpet. It was bad. All my stuff in my studio and basement has been in my garage on top of the bikes and the tools for 2 months.

I finally undug the bikes tonight, because I'm swapping my nitto noodle bar for some stuff, and I have to take it off VERY carefully, because the guy I'm trading with doesn't want it scratched.

So, first off I slice my finger open with the exacto blade as I'm taking off the rubber tape. Then, I can't find either a wire cutter or a pliers to remove the derailleur cables, because my garage looks like a war zone. Finally hacked the cable apart, and now I'm totally stymied by the bar end shifters. I can't find a diagram of them anywhere. I have no idea how to take them off...they could be glued on for all I know.

Feel better, Sweet Pea? I see you're yawning in contentment. You will have days like this, too, but not tonight. Sweet dreams, little sailor!

Tom Bombadil

DG, are you going to attempt a bottom bracket repair on your 2nd repair attempt?

Or perhaps build a wheel?

Digital Gee

Digital Gee

I think I'll build up a complete bike from scratch, using ordinary materials I can find around the house.

solveg

Yer image didn't come through. I'll bet it was funny. I'm shivering in anticipation.

Finally got the bar ends shifters figured out, but I lack the hex wrench needed to take it off.

Keeping your tools organized is very important. I'm always a mess with hex wrenches, because I don't have a organization method, and I always have to try a few before I find the right one.

Big Paulie

Sometimes building a house from materials you find on your bike turns out better...

solveg

I wasn't sure where to put this, and I didn't want to start a whole thread, but I'm trying to take some nitto bars our of a technomic stem. I'm ready to pull it out, but the guy I'm trading with doesn't want it scratched. It's in there really tight. I've taken the screw completely out, and I've tried prying the stem apart, but it's really really solid and either I'm not using the right tool or I don't have the strength.

I have a wonder bar (I actually made the freudian slip of asking the hardware store guy where the Wonder Bras were!) but I don't know if I should use it, or how. Maybe I should put a thick bit of grease on it? Would that help protect it?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to scratch the pretty part.

Digital Gee

So you chose MY thread about messing up my first repair job? Sigh.

Big Paulie

Sorry to say, yes it probably will get scratched. Those bars and stem are a super tight fit.

The "tradee" in this deal should know that. You're not a miracle worker. A scratch or scratches are cosmetic. If he wants a perfect bar, suggest that he buy a new one.

One thing you could try is wrapping one side of the bar with the thinnest electrician's tape you can find, and try to removed the bar on that side.

cranky old dude

rschleicher

If you get the .pdf file from Shimano it will go through the right adjustment procedure, etc. But I agree with some of the prior posts - step one is to get it positioned on the seat tube right (it looks like the FD is mounted a bit too high, so that there is too much vertical gap between the bottom of the FD's curved arms, and the top edge of the large chain ring. Then, pull the cable out of its housing and make sure it is clean, rust-free, lubed, etc.. If the cable isn't moving freely then the subsequent adjustments aren't going to matter.

BluesDawg

Don't let having trouble adjusting a front derailleur convince you that you can't learn to do simple bike mechanic work. I still sometimes have trouble with them. That is one of the more finicky parts of a bicycle.

Keep plugging away, fixing what you need to fix as it comes up.

robtown

DG,

I spent 4 hours last night trying to put studded tires on my electric assist MTB. It has two chains on the rear, a chain guard, and a Nexus internal hub w/drum brake. Disconnecting the gear control cable was HECK! It turns out one of the wire strands had come undone and it unwound inside the cable housing. That seized up the cable and didn't allow it to provide the slack I needed.

I probably offended the bike maintenance gods by feeling I had progressed past the newbie stage. My advice is to conquer your repair phobia - but always remain humble.

Digital Gee

Today I took the wheels off the Fuji and relegated it to a storage unit. I was surprised that the bike has no quick release on the rear wheel. Anyway, as I fiddled with the bike, I was able to see that it "looks" pretty simple to work on -- but it's still going into storage for a while.

When I dig it out and start flailing away, I'm going to take all the components off, one at a time, keeping all the parts for each system in a different plastic box. Then I'm going to clean everything as thoroughly as I can, before attempting to reassemble the bike. I've got absolutely nothing to lose -- even my pride -- and I'll have as much time as it takes. I don't even want the bike anymore, actually, in terms of riding it. It's become a collection of parts and it will be interesting to see if I can make them fly in formation again. If I do get it cleaned up and running again, I will find a someone who really needs a bike and donate it to them. The Fuji will be all about figuring out how things work and starting a tool collection.

But not right now. Later, 'tater!

solveg

I'm still waiting for your sailor boy image.

Update: The wonderbar worked great to spread the stem. It was a little wonderbar. It still has scratches where it was clamped in, but I don't think I did it during the removal.

JanMM

A full-size Wonderbar by Stanley is a wonderful tool but not the right tool for your job. Glad to hear the little wonderbar worked. Smaller ones do come in handy.

bcoppola

1) I want that table!

2) Paulie, I've been meaning to ask: where do you find all these crazy-***** pictures you're always posting?

Deeg: I can't add much to the good advice you've already gotten except for the well-worn truism that a DIY project invariably takes at least three times as long than a pro to do it. (EDIT) The "Fuji project" sounds like the way to go.

I'm currently in the midst of a complete teardown/overhaul/rebuild of my Craigslist Trek Antelope 820. Took two hours do figure out that the reason my rear wheel wouldn't turn smoothly no matter how nicely I adjusted the hub was a slightly deformed dust cap rubbing against the bearings when I tightened the cassette lockring. Hey, it beats cabin fever.

Wifes going to be out for a couple of hours so I can take the frame into the shower for washing!

Big Paulie

Such language from the second cousin, by marriage, of a great movie director!

Francis Ford Coppola, when asked about his cycling cousin at a recent film awards show, had this to say...

wobblyoldgeezer

I'm no expert - but the possible tool of choice is a 10 pound lump hammer. My maintenance colleagues call them 'small persuaders'

If it doesn't work, this message will autodestruct shortly after your shifters. Courage et bon chance!

bcoppola

And does he ever call?? Ask my advice about plot points or casting? Or even send a bottle of his vino for Christmas?

NO-O-O-O!

And he wonders why his latest flick is a flop...

ang1sgt

Some tips and tricks with older MTB parts.

Your inner cable looks pretty bad. That should be replaced. If the housings are originals, get new ones too. Make sure that the housings are good quality, at least the same as the Originals.

Remove the old parts and set them aside. Work on the derailluer (FD) now. See if the stops for the triple are set properly. See if the "SWING" of the FD works. I've seen many of this vintage that have seized pivot points. Use something slightly heavier than a penetrating oil and lube each and every pivot. Make sure that the return spring also gets a good coat also.

If that works and the stops for the FD look correct the next thing is placement of the FD in the vertical plane in relation to the crank. The Park tool site says it best here, and others have mentioned that also.

Manually actuate the FD while the bike is either upside down or in a Stand. If it shifts fine now, we only have to ensure the shifter is working now.

The Shimano Pod shifters can get grimed up internally. I've seen too many of these thrown out and replaced due to lack of cleaning and lubrication. The only time I have EVER disassembled one was when I had to replace a broken thumb actuator. If you gotta go deeper than that, replace it!

My secret is to spray some WD-40 or heavier Spray lube like Break Free into the hole that the inner cable goes into. I also spray above and below each of the actuators and then allow it to soak in as I work on the FD. When I get the FD set and adjusted, I install the NEW Inner wire. At this point I have NOT installed the cable housings. I start actuating the shifter while holding onto the inner wire. You should have 3 crisp detents with the shifter pulling or releasing the same amount of cable with each click. If not, one of the internal detents is still dirty or a spring is still hanging up. Keep working the cable and shifter and see if it will free up. Spray a little more lube if needed and work it some more.

In most cases after a few sprays and a bit of work, you will get back to 3 crisp detents. I've seen bikes that I've done this too, work for a few more years. It was certainly worth the effort for the customer and it was more value for them also. Some shops would rather replace than diagnose these problems. In my time, I've found that these shifter pods are much more robust than folks give them credit. The only real failure I've seen has been due to abuse or crash damage, and in those cases, replacement becomes the only result.

Chris

ang1sgt

Stepfam...

Why not look into a Shimano LX Treking crank set. They have a 48/36/26T triple chainrings. It's the same one that I use on my Clyde Bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Deore-.../dp/B000G7LV0U

Chris

BluesDawg

Or for something closer to the look and concept of the original, the Sugino XD is a good choice. Good old square taper BB.