new bike-1st tune-up?
#1
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new bike-1st tune-up?
How do you know, after buying a new bike, when it is time for the first tune-up?
I bought this bike in January and have not ridden it much because of winter weather.
I exercise in a gym in the winter,so I only have about 120 miles on the bike..
is it a set amount of miles or should I be looking for something?
I bought this bike in January and have not ridden it much because of winter weather.
I exercise in a gym in the winter,so I only have about 120 miles on the bike..
is it a set amount of miles or should I be looking for something?
#2
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If everything seems to be working well, I would tend to hold off for a few more miles, but would be checking spoke tension. I tend to like doing my own bike work, though, so you may want to discount the wait opinion.
#3
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
(These really are questions that should go into the mechanics forum as their answers can benefit everyone.)
That first tune up is not a factor of time but rather, mileage.
Getting the bike checked at 100 miles is a good idea as some cable stretch will have occurred and things may need to be tweaked and it is always good to check the wheels and spokes as they will been broken in
This is not as common on a good hand built wheel as it is on a factory built wheel and any errors in tensioning should have started to manifest themselves.
If there was factory lube on the chain it too will have served it's useful purpose and a general check will identify anything that may be amiss be it a poorly adjusted bearing or something that be a safety concern.
That first tune up is not a factor of time but rather, mileage.
Getting the bike checked at 100 miles is a good idea as some cable stretch will have occurred and things may need to be tweaked and it is always good to check the wheels and spokes as they will been broken in
This is not as common on a good hand built wheel as it is on a factory built wheel and any errors in tensioning should have started to manifest themselves.
If there was factory lube on the chain it too will have served it's useful purpose and a general check will identify anything that may be amiss be it a poorly adjusted bearing or something that be a safety concern.
#4
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Spoke tension irregular? (Test by twanging them and wait for the Thud) Cables getting stretched and gears not engaging? Brakes not pulling directly on the rims?
All signs that attention is needed.
All signs that attention is needed.
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If you bought the bike at your local LBS, check with them to see if they offer a free tuneup after 30, 60 or 90 days or so. Mine did, and many do. I took it back after 400 miles and they adjusted the cables, checked wheel trueness, lubed and cleaned it.
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I would add however, it's really good to learn to do this yourself. I haven't gotten in to truing wheels yet, but the rest of the stuff is really easy and keeps your bike running smooth. On the road bike every two or three rides (unless I ride through bad stuff and it needs it sooner)I wipe down the chain, take a brush to the cogs and lube the chain. On the MTB after every ride I do this. I run the bike through the gears on the stand to check everything after cleaning. I went for a long time without a stand, there are ways but it is so much easier with a stand. Bikes that have rim brakes make it easy to do a quick/rough check of wheel trueness.
#7
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1) If the wheels do not spin true or if any spokes feel loose, the spokes need to be retensioned.
2) If your brake handle travel has increased significantly, your brake cables need to be retightened.
3) If your shift indexing is off, or if it is hard to get into low gear (rear) or high gear (front), your gear cables need to be retensioned.
4) If your handlebar, stem, or saddle is loose, you need to have a few bolts retightened.
5) If your cranks creak, their fixing bolts need to be retorqued.
6) If your chainring fixing bolts are loose, they need to be tightened.
If none of the above, keep riding.
2) If your brake handle travel has increased significantly, your brake cables need to be retightened.
3) If your shift indexing is off, or if it is hard to get into low gear (rear) or high gear (front), your gear cables need to be retensioned.
4) If your handlebar, stem, or saddle is loose, you need to have a few bolts retightened.
5) If your cranks creak, their fixing bolts need to be retorqued.
6) If your chainring fixing bolts are loose, they need to be tightened.
If none of the above, keep riding.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#8
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I like to put five to six hundred miles on before I take it in for the first check-up.