Spinz

not shifting properly. I've usually been able to keep one shifting correctly however this one has me a bit perplexed. I noticed today it would not shift down to the highest cog. I tightened the cable tensioner a bit and it seemed to shift fine. Several miles later I really encountered shifting issues. The chain is jumping between the highest cogs, and will not seat itself on the 13 gear. The L & H alignment look good as well as the B angle. Could it be solely related to cable stretch? Either way its beyond me. I'm headed to the LBS Monday. Lp

Bikewer

Shift onto the highest (smallest) cog and check the cable tension. It should be snug with very little play.
If one is giving me trouble, I usually shift to the smallest cog, make sure the shifter is in the highest position, and then loosen the cable completely. Make sure the adjuster is all the way "in".

Reattach the cable, and then generally it will require only a couple of quarter turns on the adjuster to put things right.
While you're fooling with all this, make sure that the DR hanger is not bent, and that the cage is absolutely square with the cogs.

BluesDawg

From the Park Tool website.
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

Index Setting

1. Set limit screws (if not already done).
2. Shift chain to outermost rear sprocket (smallest). Shift chain to outermost (largest) chainring in front.
3. Test initial inner wire tension. Pedal a normal cadence and shift rear derailleur with one click on lever. Use care to only move lever one position. If derailleur moves one sprocket, tension is adequate.
4. If derailleur fails to shift one sprocket, inner wire may be too slack. Turn barrel adjuster fully into derailleur body (or shift lever) then turn counter clockwise two turns to allow for index adjustments. Loosen inner wire pinch bolt and gently pull on inner wire with fourth hand tool or pliers to remove slack. Tighten inner wire pinch bolt.
5. If derailleur will not shift one sprocket after removing slack in "d", return lever back to outermost sprocket position and increase inner wire tension by turning barrel adjuster counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and attempt shift again.
6. Shift to second sprocket in rear. Pedal and increase inner wire tension by continuing to turn adjusting barrel counter-clockwise until a definite rattling is heard. Rattle is from chain scrapping against next sprocket.
7. Once a too-tight rattle is achieved, turn barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise, to release inner wire tension, and pedal again. Listen and look for signs of scraping or rattling. Continue turning barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise at a time until rattle disappears.
8. Shift derailleur one sprocket inward at a time, listening for signs of rattle, indicating a too tight inner wire. Turn adjusting barrel 1/4 turn clockwise to eliminate rattle. Note: Do not attempt shift to largest rear sprocket while in largest front sprocket. This gear is normally not used and adjusting tension to this shift may compromise other commonly used gears.
9. Shift to innermost (smallest) chainring and check gears again. If no rattling is present, index adjustment is done.

stapfam

How many miles on the bike? After setting the stops and trying to make adjustments- check the cables. Any rust or frays- change them. Clean cables- could be muck inside the outer cable so get the WD40 out and release the cables and get plenty of WD down inside to wash them out.

maddmaxx 

BluesDawg is right. Once the derailleur is that far out of wack, a small tweak or adjustment is just a bandaid. If you learn the whole proceedure and perform it step by step in the order given, you will have your derailleur up and running in less than 5 minutes. If it won't get better after this, then look beyond the derailleur for more fundamental problems like sticking (dirty or worn) cables, bent brackets.

Remember though what one of our posters said earlier in the year (works for life as well as bicycles.) "When you hear the sound of hoofbeats, think horses, not zebra's". In other words, take care of the simple (rear derailleur alignment) problems first before you jump to the complex ones.

Retro Grouch 

"Bent brackets".

Whenever I'm faced with a rear shifting issue that doesn't respond to normal tuneing, the very first thing that I do is to check the derailleur hanger alignment. Most of the time that fixes it. More cogs on the rear cassette means they are crowded more closely together. That has made derailleur hanger alignment more important than it was in the past.

Bob Nichols

My bike does the same thing. The rear derailleur works fine on gears 1 thru 6, but on 7 the chain jumps. I think I can adjust it, but haven't had a chance to try it yet.

RonH

Sounds to me like you folks should hang around the Bike Mechanics forum a little more.

buelito

sounds like you need a fixie-- no problems with shifters of any kind

train safe-

Retro Grouch 

Perfect!

Fixed gears, tubular tires, Brooks saddles, Campy components, recumbents, steel framed bikes, itchy wool jerseys. (If I missed offending some group, I apologize.) Their proponents make me feel like I've got a group of Jehovah's Witnesses at the door.

In the interest of full disclosure, I own a few Brooks saddles and I like them. I also built myself a fixed gear bike. I like it fine but I just don't get the attraction so I don't ride it very much. What am I missing?

Spinz

Thanks ------- BDawg I'll give your instructions a try Monday morning. Lp

Spinz

Hanger was bent inward just enough to screw up the shifting on the first 3 gears. Smooth as silk now and life is sooo good ------- Lp