Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: ReBuild advice

  1. #1
    gone ride'n cyclinfool's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    My Bikes
    Simoncini, Gary Fisher, Specialized Tarmac
    Posts
    4,052
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    ReBuild advice

    I will start a thread shortly with some pics of my bike rebuild. The Simoncini is stripped and cleaned and the rebuild is in progress. I am scratching my head on the Ultratorque crankset though. This is very different than a typical BB/crank installation. There is no BB per say. There are two bearing cups and the actual bearings are pressed into the crank arms (much like the rear axel bearings on a car). Campy found a way to take a lot of weight out of the BB.

    Here is the question - there are two ways to install the BB cups, either torque them in or apply locktite 222 and and tighten them in. On a Italian BB the non-drive side may tend to work the BB cup out as it is normal thread (lefty loosey). I feel more comfortable with some locktite but 222 (the low grip kind) is hard to find (I have tried the automotive parts houses, hardware stores, etc.). Also Locktite prevents corrosion and will seal the threads. What would you do - forge ahead and just torque them in or make a special order for the locktite?

    My inclination is to do it right and just order the stuff on line and pay the excess shipping for such a small item. I guess I can justify it with all the other places my might actually use it if I had it...
    "Of all the things I ever lost I miss my mind the most." Mark Twain
    If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

  2. #2
    Time for a change. stapfam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
    My Bikes
    Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
    Posts
    19,915
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have enough problems getting Old BB's out after just a few years that have not had Loctite. So if you plan to keep the bike- Just torque it up and hope it stays tight. If you are selling the bike- Weld the cups in place next time they come loose.
    How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.


    Spike Milligan

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    830
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've always used grease. Never had one loosen. If it's a titanium frame, it takes a special grease.

    As mentioned, I think Locktite would be risky. Also, I believe torque specs are based on lubed/greased threads.

    Al

  4. #4
    Lincoln, CA Mojo Slim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Lincoln, CA
    My Bikes
    94 Giant ATX 760, 2001 Biachi Eros, 2005 Giant OCR2 Composite +
    Posts
    2,229
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Don't ask me. I can barely wash my bike.
    Truth is stranger than reality.
    '96 Giant ATX 760 MTB
    '01 Bianchi Eros
    '05 Giant OCR Llimited Carbon Fiber + upgrades

  5. #5
    just keep riding BluesDawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Milledgeville, Georgia
    My Bikes
    2014 Specialized Crave Pro 29, 2014 Specialized Crux EVO Carbon Disc, 2012 Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross, 2011 Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert Compact, 2009 Salsa Casseroll, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB
    Posts
    12,731
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd keep looking for the purple Loctite.
    The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.

  6. #6
    Senior Member RoMad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Citrus county Fl.
    My Bikes
    Litespeed Tuscany , Lemond Poprad, 1970's Motobecane Grand Record
    Posts
    781
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I recently changed the bolt that holds my crank arm on my FSA crank. The nice folks at FSA sent me the new steel bolt to replace the aluminum one and they included a small tube of loctite 641. The instructions for the 641 say to clean all parts with a non residue leaving cleaner, apply the 641 to both surfaces and torque to spec. It also says to allow 24 hours to cure and if you need to disassemble, to follow normal disassembly instructions. I don't know if the 641 is hard to find or not.

  7. #7
    gone ride'n cyclinfool's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    My Bikes
    Simoncini, Gary Fisher, Specialized Tarmac
    Posts
    4,052
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by RoMad View Post
    I recently changed the bolt that holds my crank arm on my FSA crank. The nice folks at FSA sent me the new steel bolt to replace the aluminum one and they included a small tube of loctite 641. The instructions for the 641 say to clean all parts with a non residue leaving cleaner, apply the 641 to both surfaces and torque to spec. It also says to allow 24 hours to cure and if you need to disassemble, to follow normal disassembly instructions. I don't know if the 641 is hard to find or not.
    Campy recommends getting all the greese off the threads before torquing it or locktiting the threads.
    The frame is my steel Simoncini. I certainly can tell you the Veloce BB was difficult to get out - required a pipe on the wrench to get it free.
    "Of all the things I ever lost I miss my mind the most." Mark Twain
    If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,901
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Locktite on a BB = NO.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    23,730
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by cyclinfool View Post
    On a Italian BB the non-drive side may tend to work the BB cup out as it is normal thread (lefty loosey).
    You have it backwards.

    Italian bottom brackets have right hand threads on both sides. Since there is a bearing between the BB spindle and the BB shell, the direction of the force is reversed. That makes the drive side want to unscrew itself.

    English threaded bottom brackets solve the problem by using a left hand thread on the drive side.

  10. #10
    Senior Member howsteepisit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    My Bikes
    Mecian
    Posts
    2,830
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    IF you can, I would first torque them in, if that fails there is annother loctite, I thinks its the blue thats more of an anti-vibration product (I think) maybe try it. LIcktite website is http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153
    Recycle, Reclaim, Reuse and Repair
    The 4 Rs to save the planet

    "Toes"

  11. #11
    Senior Member buddyp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    washington dc
    My Bikes
    derosa, bianchi, fuji, panasonic, jamis
    Posts
    311
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    mscdirect has it. 10ml for $13. The last 10ml bottle of 222 I bought lasted me about 10 years and my other hobby is racing cars. Every fastener on the car goes on with loctite, either red, blue, green or purple, depending on what size it is what its function is

    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=49999699

    no doubt mcmaster-carr has it too.

    you might find a single use packet of it somewhere for like a buck, like a better auto parts store (not autozone or advance -- the performance and nashbar of auto parts)

  12. #12
    gone ride'n cyclinfool's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    My Bikes
    Simoncini, Gary Fisher, Specialized Tarmac
    Posts
    4,052
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by oilman_15106 View Post
    Locktite on a BB = NO.
    I would agree that a normal BB needs no locktite but this is no normal BB. The Ultratorque is a very different crank/BB design.

    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
    You have it backwards.

    Italian bottom brackets have right hand threads on both sides. Since there is a bearing between the BB spindle and the BB shell, the direction of the force is reversed. That makes the drive side want to unscrew itself.

    English threaded bottom brackets solve the problem by using a left hand thread on the drive side.
    You may be correct as I have never taken apart an english BB - but I am glad you said this as I plan to remove the BB on my Tarmac when the season is over.

    Quote Originally Posted by howsteepisit View Post
    IF you can, I would first torque them in, if that fails there is annother loctite, I thinks its the blue thats more of an anti-vibration product (I think) maybe try it. LIcktite website is http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153
    Locktite blue is different than 222 (purple) as it is medium grip where 222 is light grip, easier to remove the bolt. Blue is easy to find - Lowes and most automotive parts stores carry it.



    Fastenal got the Locktite 222ms for me after I called them yesterday - picked it up today. About $14 for 10ml. I will use it on the cups and crank bolt. I will install it tonight - may even get the build finished as the crank and chain and drive train adjustments are the big things left - after that I just have to wrap the bars up.

    Thanks for the help.
    "Of all the things I ever lost I miss my mind the most." Mark Twain
    If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •