Came across this dinosaur ... an all cro-moly steel frame & fork, unsuspended mountain bike. Reasonably decent components, mostly Shimano Deore-level. Disc brakes. List is $899, have seen it for $799.
And of all things, it is a GT. The GT Peace 9R Multi (for multiple gears). They also make it in a single-speed.
The standard color is awful, IMHO. A glaring multi-color. I'm sure someone must like it. I think it is also available in blue.
I know one can get such bikes from Salsa and a few other specialized companies. But it has been a while since I've seen one with a mass production label.