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  1. #1
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Nitto Noodle bars

    I like these bars much better than the other ones. I really had a heck of a time trying to adjust the front dérailleur and it still has a hard time dropping onto the small ring. With the barrel adjusters I don't have any problem at all, but with the barends I don't have that option. I can go from the big ring to the middle and then I adjust it and I can go from the middle to the small, but not the big. Any help would be appreciated. I did go to the Park tool site and another video show how, but it's not completely the way I would like to have it.





    George

  2. #2
    Life is good RonH's Avatar
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    Nice looking Coda Elite.

    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    I can go from the big ring to the middle and then I adjust it and I can go from the middle to the small, but not the big. Any help would be appreciated. I did go to the Park tool site and another video show how, but it's not completely the way I would like to have it.
    Is the front der cable tensioned correctly? Too loose and you won't get onto the small ring. Too tight and you won't get onto the big ring.

    The shifter is for a triple and not a double isn't it?
    My bikes --> 2001 Litespeed Tuscany---2011 Felt Z4

    Life is like a 10-speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use. ~ Charles Schultz

  3. #3
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply Ron, but that's not it. Here's the ones I bought.
    http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=D1089
    George

  4. #4
    just keep riding BluesDawg's Avatar
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    I don't understand the problem. With friction shifting, adjustment should be less critical.
    The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.

  5. #5
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    Nice bike George. We need more details about the shifting problems.

  6. #6
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    That's what I thought to. With the first set of bars I put on I had the adjustment done in 5 minutes. If I pull the cable fairly tight I cant get on the big ring and if I leave fairly loose I can't drop down to the small ring. I took the tape off to see if something was in a bend and couldn't find anything wrong. I was jut playing with it again by loosening the low limit screw and it works with the bike on the stand. Then when I take it for a ride it real slow dropping down. I worked on this for hours and cannot figure it out.
    George

  7. #7
    Life is good RonH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    Thanks for the reply Ron, but that's not it. Here's the ones I bought.
    http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=D1089
    My bad. I thought you were using the shifters shown in your pics but I now see they're brake levers only. The bar ends are kind of hidden unless you look closely.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by RonH; 02-24-09 at 05:20 PM.
    My bikes --> 2001 Litespeed Tuscany---2011 Felt Z4

    Life is like a 10-speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use. ~ Charles Schultz

  8. #8
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Oh I forgot, I chewed up the new cable up with all this, trying to slack it and tightened it so many time I put another new cable on.
    George

  9. #9
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    I just tried to put a slight bit of slack in the cable and now it wont go on the big ring.
    George

  10. #10
    Grumpy Old Bugga europa's Avatar
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    Assuming you can actually get enough movement on the dr to do the job (and I've found you can't assume this), the problem probably lies in your cables - is there any friction in there?

    For example, I was having a terrible time with the shifting on the Jamis. I knew the cable outers were a little long but didn't think much of it. Eventually I cut them back to the right length and all my shifting problems went away.

    Are the outers new? Could be something in there.

    I'm guessing that the bar ends are putting a tight curve in the cable somewhere and it's this that's causing the problem ... and my experience above suggests that you may be underestimating the effect so I suggest that you revisit the layout and be hyper critical of everything.

    Either that or just squirt some light oil down the outers and see what happens. I know you aren't supposed to lubricate modern cables but I've come across too many experienced mechanics that privately advise you to do it.

    Of course, if you got rid of the derailleurs and converted her to a fixed gear bike, you wouldn't have these problems

    Richard
    I had a good bike ... so I FIXED it

  11. #11
    should know better
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    Problems like that can drive you nuts. My rear derailleur was very sluggish to shift to the smallest cog, when it would go there at all. I backed the limit screw out all the way, made sure the cable was slack, changed the derailleur hanger, to no avail. Bought a new chain, thinking that even though the old one looked only slightly worn, I'd give it a try. Before I put the new chain on, though, I decided to shorten the derailleur cable housings up front, which I've been meaning to do for weeks. Step one of that process, of course, was taking the cable off the rear derailleur. Loosened the cable clamp bolt, and as soon as I freed the cable, the derailleur moved to the end of its travel. Turns out that the tab on the cable clamping washer was pushing against the derailleur, and that's what was stopping my shift. A little judicious filing and all is well. Sounds like your problem is something like that--you won't likely find it in a bike repair book. Just keep experimenting and most likely the answer will pop out--perhaps literally. My problem, by the way, also did the "works on the stand but not on the road" thing when I had the bike upside down on the stand, which is the way I normally have it when I adjust derailleurs. About the third time I put it on the stand my brain kicked in and I realized that maybe I'd have a better chance of at least observing the problem that way--and sure enough, there it was, albeit still not as bad as when it was under load. Good luck!

  12. #12
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    Firstly, the bar-end shifter lever should have at least 90 degrees of movement. If not assembled correctly, it could limit movement.

    Assuming the derailleur limit screws are set correctly and with the shift lever pointing straight down at the ground (as far as it'll go) tension the front derailleur cable tight with the derailleur cage on the smallest chainring.

    This should give you a good starting point.
    .cinelli.olympic.surly.long.haul.trucker.kona.ku.surly.steamroller.
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  13. #13
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Thanks guy, I did everything that you suggested and nothing. I just came in from playing with it again and it is better, but I have to push the lever when it's trying to go into low. That would make you think you need more cable wouldn't it. I gave it a hair more cable and couldn't get it on the big ring.
    George

  14. #14
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    By now you've probably fixed the problem--I suspect some hidden stiction somewhere, assuming the levers are assembled correctly. But I have bar ends on two bikes, and I put barrel adjusters on one of them where the cable goes into the housing stop. Both bikes shift fine, but it's easier to fine-tune the adjusters than to retension the cable when things get a little out. You can get the adjusters at any bike shop.

  15. #15
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velo Dog View Post
    By now you've probably fixed the problem--I suspect some hidden stiction somewhere, assuming the levers are assembled correctly. But I have bar ends on two bikes, and I put barrel adjusters on one of them where the cable goes into the housing stop. Both bikes shift fine, but it's easier to fine-tune the adjusters than to retension the cable when things get a little out. You can get the adjusters at any bike shop.
    I was going to put barrel adjusters on the bike, but the bosses are so close they wouldn't fit. Maybe you could tell me what you went with and I'll pick some up. I did ask the bike shop, but they also said they wouldn't fit. You're right, I finally got it, by playing with the cable tension and dérailleur adjustment. Thanks everybody for your replies and now I'm really happy with the bike, for now
    George

  16. #16
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    A barrel adjuster for a front friction shifter is really not necessary if initial cable tension is properly set. There's really nothing to fine tune.
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  17. #17
    just keep riding BluesDawg's Avatar
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    Is the limit screw on the front derailleur preventing the chain from moving all the way onto the big ring?
    The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.

  18. #18
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluesDawg View Post
    Is the limit screw on the front derailleur preventing the chain from moving all the way onto the big ring?
    I tried something different this time. I put the the chain on the small ring in front and the big in back and lined everything up. Then I did the same thing on the big ring on the front and small in the back and it worked. Someone mentioned that sometimes it's not in the book. I guess he was right. They probably got all messed up with me playing with them all day.
    George

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