Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 32
  1. #1
    Senior Member ecrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Corpus Christi, Texas
    My Bikes
    2008 Trek FX 7.1, 1984 Fuji Esprit, 2009 Jamis Aurora Elite
    Posts
    270
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    What's the lifespan of a chain

    I looked at my chain recently and it showed signs of wear. I was wondering how long a chain lasts before it needs replacing. Is there a replacement maintenance schedule for chains?

  2. #2
    Senior Member jdon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4,195
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Excessive stretch or wear. It really depends on how it has been cleaned, lubricated, your strength, riding conditions etc. I replace mine annually.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,259
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#stretch

    Live by this and you can't go wrong. Get accustomed to measuring your chain wear and replace it before it wears down the teeth on your cassette or rings. The important factor is wear, not mileage!!!!

    I waited too long with my Volae, my summer commuter, and found 1/8" wear after only 2500 miles. Replaced both the chain and the cassette. I'm currently casually shopping for a good, easy to read chain gauge.

  4. #4
    Senior Member tntyz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Nabob, WI
    My Bikes
    '03 Trek 7500, '08 Madone 4.5
    Posts
    1,176
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Poor shifting performance is a tip off, too. I got about 2000 miles on mine (Shimano 105 10-speed) before it needed replacement. Made a huge difference!

  5. #5
    Senior Member BengeBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Seattle, Washington, USA
    My Bikes
    2009 Chris Boedeker custom, 1988 Tommasini Prestige, 2007 Bill Davidson custom, 1985 Univega Gran Turismo; 1988 Specialized Stumpjumper
    Posts
    6,921
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This topic always seems to set off a lot of different practices/opinions.

    I got a Park Tool chain checker; it's under $25 online. Kind of a pricey tool, but cheap for peace of mind.

    http://www.parktool.com/products/det...at=5&item=CC-2

    I can check 4 bikes in about two minutes.

    My 10-speed chains last less than 2,000 miles -- my 9 speed chains last 2,500 to 3,000 miles.

  6. #6
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Windy City
    My Bikes
    A road bike for every purpose
    Posts
    9,185
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I put about 4000 miles on mine. This was on a 1 X 10 all Shimano drivetrain.
    2014 Trek DS.1: "Viaggiatore" A do-it-all bike that is waiting in Italy
    2012 Pedal Force CG2: "Secolo Bicicletta" the modern carbon fiber road bike
    2012 Pedal Force CX2: "Carbone CX" the carbon fiber CX bike
    2010 Origin 8 CX 700: "Servizio Grave" Monstercross/29er bike
    1997 Simoncini Special Cyclocross: "Little Simon" lugged Columbus steel CX bike
    1987 Serotta Nova Special X: "Azzurri" The retro Columbus SPX steel road bike

  7. #7
    Council of the Elders billydonn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    My Bikes
    1990 Schwinn Crosscut, 5 Lemonds
    Posts
    3,761
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have used up a 10-speed chain in as little as 500 miles. This isn't typical however and, as a previous poster said, there are many factors involved. Get a chain checker, use it regularly, replace chain when checker says to. Use quality chain when you replace.

    There is a time to resign oneself
    to old age and infirmity. You first.
    My Cycling Blogspot

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    NW AR & Central LA
    Posts
    2,659
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I get around 3,000 to 3,500 miles on my 8-speed chains. My 10-speed chain has 2,500 miles on it. So far, so good, but I need to get a chain checker.

  9. #9
    Senior Moment bikegeek57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    My Bikes
    Fuji Absolute 4.0
    Posts
    1,004
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I am in the ball park for about 2000 miles per chain. daily commute through every kind of weather. takes its toll on the hardware. shifting is the first clue if I haven't checked the chain length lately.

    wipe down the chain after rides, keep sprockets clean, wash the chain and it will help extend life of chain.

    it's amazing how fast 2000 miles pops up when you ride alot. 20 weeks at 100 miles per week. zips right by.

  10. #10
    Senior Member NOS88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Montgomery County, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    6,427
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Performance currently has a chain checker on sale for $4.99. http://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._400005_400140

    I use one and found that all chains wear at different rates. I suspect weather conditions, the number of times I clean & lube the chain, and number of hills I climb while standing all have an impact.
    A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright

  11. #11
    Pat
    Pat is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    My Bikes
    litespeed, cannondale
    Posts
    2,795
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have the cheap park tool chain checker also. It works very well. If you change the chains before they were much, you will really cut down on the wear of your rear cluster and chain rings. Running a worn chain too long will wear the rear cluster. When you finally change the chain, the chain will skip on the worn rear cluster. The rear cluster will have to be changed and that costs about 2-3 times what the chain costs.

    I believe that cleaning your chain frequently will reduce its rate of wear. I get about 3,000-4,000 miles on a chain.

  12. #12
    gone ride'n cyclinfool's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    My Bikes
    Simoncini, Gary Fisher, Specialized Tarmac
    Posts
    4,052
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have teh el-cheapo park guage - this is all I really need to keep an eye on it. I use it after I clean the bike and before I lube the chain up. Nothing to read - it either fits or it doesn't.

    http://www.parktool.com/products/det...=5&item=CC%2D3
    "Of all the things I ever lost I miss my mind the most." Mark Twain
    If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

  13. #13
    Time for a change. stapfam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
    My Bikes
    Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
    Posts
    19,915
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Whether you go for the cheap or the expensive chain checkers- then get one. There is a method of measuring a chain with a ruler- but My eyesight isn't that good.

    I check the chain often and when it indicates .75% worn- I get a new chain and replace shortly. Thought all my bikes were fine but last Sunday went out on the MTB's and checked before the ride. They are well worn.

    Milage and it varies. Hilly rides and the chain doesn't last long- about 1,000 miles. Quality of the chain and the speed of the chain affects life aswell. So just check it frequently.
    How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.


    Spike Milligan

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    239
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Chains have a very hard life. The bearing surfaces are tiny and hard to lubricate. Lubricant gets squeezed out when you crank hard. The front wheel kicks up dust, which gets into the chain and causes more wear. Dusty mountain bike rides up long hills mean I don't get much mileage from the 9-speed chain although I lube it after each ride.

    There must be a better way. Fully enclosed chain? Belt drive? Cable drive? Rohloff hub with an enclosed chain? I'm surprised more isn't written about this.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,900
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
    I put about 4000 miles on mine. This was on a 1 X 10 all Shimano drivetrain.

    There are reports of 10 speed chains lasting only 500 miles. I got 1600 on my last 10x chain. Count your blessings.

    A fellow that rides with us has a Shimano 9 speed triple setup, bad back, and spins in the small rings alot. He has 24,000 miles on the original chain!!! and it is not stretched. One of those "they don't make em like they used to stories?"

    To the OP. Follow the measurement guidelines and replace as often as it needs to be. Too many factors to say you should replace a chain at X mileage.

  16. #16
    Cyclologist Plutonix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    On 2 Wheels
    My Bikes
    Trek 4500, Trek 7.5 FX
    Posts
    303
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I *try* to change chains just BEFORE the checker says you should. The problem is that a dirty chain can give a very different reading than a clean one. By clean I mean one either removed and soaked or throughly cleaned with a grunge brush or chain cleaning machine. It is a PAIN to thoroughly clean a chain just to find out it is time to replace it. I wipe it off before every ride, but the dirt/grime that affects the measurement seems to be between the links.

    I get about 1800-2000 miles on 8sp MTB, maybe a little more on the 9sp Hybrid. Higher quality chains seem to last longer.

  17. #17
    Senior Member ecrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Corpus Christi, Texas
    My Bikes
    2008 Trek FX 7.1, 1984 Fuji Esprit, 2009 Jamis Aurora Elite
    Posts
    270
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions. I called my LBS to asked about the chain checker and the owner said he'd sell me one but ask me to bring in the bike for a free check up and adjustment if needed. Hmmm, why not? That will give me a chance to lust after all the sale bikes on his showroom floor.

  18. #18
    Banned. The Weak Link's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Post-partisan Paradise
    My Bikes
    GF Wahoo '05, Trek T1000 '04, Lemond Buenos Aires '07
    Posts
    4,936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Now that we have amicably settled that question, what would be the replacement chain of choice for a ten cog (Shimano) drivetrain?

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Bay Area, Calif.
    Posts
    4,887
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't get it. Holding a ruler up to the chain only takes a few seconds and gives a clear indication of how much stretch there is. And rulers have enough other uses that I always have one or two conveniently lying around. Beats having to get yet another single-purpose tool that I'd be likely to misplace at some point anyway.

  20. #20
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
    My Bikes
    1959 Capo; 1980 Peugeot PKN-10; 1981 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;
    Posts
    15,072
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What does a chain checker do that my 12" ruler cannot?

    I dutifully follow Sheldon's 1/2 percent elongation rule, use SRAM PC-58 8-speed chains exclusively, and have never broken a chain, although I have broken two rear axles, two left cranks, two frames, a SunTour platform pedal, a front hub flange, and various spokes and toeclips. I have heard enough Shimano chain horror stories to recommend SRAM or Whipperman, instead.

    One way to get more life out of your chain is to use larger cogs and rings, instead of today's fashionable compact sets.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
    Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
    Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
    Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,259
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by prathmann View Post
    I don't get it. Holding a ruler up to the chain only takes a few seconds and gives a clear indication of how much stretch there is. And rulers have enough other uses that I always have one or two conveniently lying around. Beats having to get yet another single-purpose tool that I'd be likely to misplace at some point anyway.
    For me it's my eyes. It's too hard to see those little marks on the ruler due to AMD. I'm shopping for a tool that I can easily handle AND see.

    Desperate situations call for desperate measures.
    Last edited by cranky old dude; 10-28-09 at 08:23 PM.

  22. #22
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
    My Bikes
    1959 Capo; 1980 Peugeot PKN-10; 1981 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;
    Posts
    15,072
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Chaos View Post
    There must be a better way. Fully enclosed chain? Belt drive? Cable drive? Rohloff hub with an enclosed chain? I'm surprised more isn't written about this.
    Belt and cable drive systems are far less efficient than chains, and probably no more reliable. How many of you know someone who has snapped the timing belt in a car engine? In contrast, how many know someone who has snapped a timing chain? (I did admittedly strip a plastic cam gear once, on a 1973 Chevy V-8. When I replaced the cam, lifters, and timing set, I paid $10 extra for a steel cam gear.) Internal epicyclic gear systems are heavy and also have more drag than a roller chain. The bottom line is that the roller chain has been standard equipment for a century because no one has yet been able to improve on it.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
    Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
    Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
    Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069

  23. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    3,191
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What good is a 12" ruler when you are trying to accurately measure 12 1/16" to 12 1/8"? bk

  24. #24
    Senior Member George's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Katy Texas
    My Bikes
    Specialized Roubaix
    Posts
    5,280
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by The Weak Link View Post
    Now that we have amicably settled that question, what would be the replacement chain of choice for a ten cog (Shimano) drivetrain?
    I'm going to try one of these,
    http://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=bu_bicycle
    George

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,900
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by The Weak Link View Post
    Now that we have amicably settled that question, what would be the replacement chain of choice for a ten cog (Shimano) drivetrain?
    My answer: any chain that does not use the Shimano chain pin system. Total pain in the rear and if you don't do it just right, disaster.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •