My butt still hurts
#1
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My butt still hurts
I decided not to whine about it until I had 1,000 miles but I'm over 900 now (ok still a newbie) and my butt wants to be off the bike after 15 or 20 miles. I stand for a while. I change positions. Not much help. If I thought a new seat would help, I'd try it. If I thought buying Assos bibs would do it, I'd grit my teeth and order them. I've read about so many people who have gone through saddle after saddle looking for the right one that I have no idea where to start.
My bike is a 2009 Speciaized Allez. My bike shop (which has treated me very well) tells me the seat is the item most often upgraded. I'm 65 years old and weith 200 pounds, down from 220 when I started last year. I generally ride wearing Performance Bike shorts or Pearl Izumi bibs.
To summarize: what should I look for, a different saddle or different shorts.
My bike is a 2009 Speciaized Allez. My bike shop (which has treated me very well) tells me the seat is the item most often upgraded. I'm 65 years old and weith 200 pounds, down from 220 when I started last year. I generally ride wearing Performance Bike shorts or Pearl Izumi bibs.
To summarize: what should I look for, a different saddle or different shorts.
#2
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I don't know. I never really had much problem, except on very long rides or when I rode more than one day in a row, but(t) even those days seem gone. My Fi'z'ik Aliente saddle has at least 35,000 miles on it and is really the only saddle I've had. The only time I tested another saddle, it was a very different style. It was flat, and my Fi'z'ik comes up a bit in back.
For me, good shorts really helped, with both chafing and sitting comfort. My rule: Spend $1 for every mile you want to ride. A century = $100 (retail) shorts.
There. I've been virtually no help. But I like to type.
For me, good shorts really helped, with both chafing and sitting comfort. My rule: Spend $1 for every mile you want to ride. A century = $100 (retail) shorts.
There. I've been virtually no help. But I like to type.
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Truth is stranger than reality.
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If you are already wearing bike shorts or Bibs then it is most likely you are ready to look for a new saddle.
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not yet 50 but;
I had the same trouble until i finally got my sit bones measured, and now have the correct width saddle. I was riding a 128mm, changed that to a 154mm, and after getting my sit bones measured and changing to 146mm, I dont even think about the saddle anymore. This is the saddle i now have on all three of my bikes; commuter, mtb bike, and road bike. I am 5'8" and right at 190.
https://www.bontrager.com/model/07134
something to read while enjoying the morning coffee;
https://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html
I had the same trouble until i finally got my sit bones measured, and now have the correct width saddle. I was riding a 128mm, changed that to a 154mm, and after getting my sit bones measured and changing to 146mm, I dont even think about the saddle anymore. This is the saddle i now have on all three of my bikes; commuter, mtb bike, and road bike. I am 5'8" and right at 190.
https://www.bontrager.com/model/07134
something to read while enjoying the morning coffee;
https://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html
Last edited by gypz; 02-23-10 at 12:01 AM. Reason: oops
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Most riders have a box of old saddles of varying shapes and sizes they went through looking for the one that is most comfortable... which isn't to say "painless" or will "disappear" under you. Getting up off the saddle regularly helps the butt-- as well as stretches the legs. Pushing somewhat heavier gears off and on will unweight your butt as well.
At 5'8", 165 my personal choice is the Flite Trans Am gel on all 3 bikes. Keep searching.
At 5'8", 165 my personal choice is the Flite Trans Am gel on all 3 bikes. Keep searching.
#6
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Mexi Pat
as you can see here from the contributing writers such as gypz, cycling can be sweet, but also a very bio technical pAIN IN THE ASS (or crotch) butt dont give up, and try other bikes on the floor of your shop, being that the saddles are mounted, you can narrow down the approximate shape you need,along with the rear width.
I finally have found the hands down favorite for me www.sellesmp.com and regret harming myself on the old style saddles such as Selle Italia Turbo, and San marco Rolls from the 80's.
as you can see here from the contributing writers such as gypz, cycling can be sweet, but also a very bio technical pAIN IN THE ASS (or crotch) butt dont give up, and try other bikes on the floor of your shop, being that the saddles are mounted, you can narrow down the approximate shape you need,along with the rear width.
I finally have found the hands down favorite for me www.sellesmp.com and regret harming myself on the old style saddles such as Selle Italia Turbo, and San marco Rolls from the 80's.
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You don't mention what kinds of adjustments to your current saddle you've tried, or specifically what kind of discomfort you experience. For example, there's a difference between sit bone discomfort and perineum discomfort. Perhaps the current saddle will work with minor adjustments. While I have a favorite saddle, there are five or six that I have found to be comfortable for long rides (Selle An-Atomica, Specialized Toupe, Brooks Pro, Specialized Alias, Bontrager Inform, and current favorite, Selle Italia SLK Gel Flow).
From my perspective a comfortable saddle fit has several elements involved.
The first is the actual shape of the saddle. It must be wide enough to support one's sit bones. Additionally, it must be narrow enough in the nose to keep from chafing one's inner legs.
Second, it must be firm enough to support one's weight without allowing the rider to sink down into the saddle material and compress nerves in the perineum area. Hence, many find that a saddle that allows you to sit on top of the platform works well. This may include minimal amounts of gel or not, depending on the saddle design.
Third, the saddle must provide adequate relief so there is little pressure on the perineum. This can be accomplished by a grove, softer material in the center, or an actual split in the saddle.
Fourth, there needs to be some flexibility so the saddle moves with you.
Other factors the impact on saddle comfort are:
How upright you sit on your bike. The more upright you are, the more weight there is on your sit bones. Hence, this becomes a matter of finding the right balacne between toughening up your back side and finding the level of padding/flex that works for you. If you are more stretched out on your bike with more weight on the hands and arms, then the nose of the saddle and the center on which the perineum rests becomes increasingly important. Saddle tilt is critical in this area. When one recommends that the saddle is level as a starting point, it is important to remember that the top of most saddles themselves are not level. Hence, judge level from mid-saddle to the rear portion where you sit bones rest. Depending on the saddle, this could make it appear that the saddle's nose is pointing slightly up or down.
From my perspective a comfortable saddle fit has several elements involved.
The first is the actual shape of the saddle. It must be wide enough to support one's sit bones. Additionally, it must be narrow enough in the nose to keep from chafing one's inner legs.
Second, it must be firm enough to support one's weight without allowing the rider to sink down into the saddle material and compress nerves in the perineum area. Hence, many find that a saddle that allows you to sit on top of the platform works well. This may include minimal amounts of gel or not, depending on the saddle design.
Third, the saddle must provide adequate relief so there is little pressure on the perineum. This can be accomplished by a grove, softer material in the center, or an actual split in the saddle.
Fourth, there needs to be some flexibility so the saddle moves with you.
Other factors the impact on saddle comfort are:
How upright you sit on your bike. The more upright you are, the more weight there is on your sit bones. Hence, this becomes a matter of finding the right balacne between toughening up your back side and finding the level of padding/flex that works for you. If you are more stretched out on your bike with more weight on the hands and arms, then the nose of the saddle and the center on which the perineum rests becomes increasingly important. Saddle tilt is critical in this area. When one recommends that the saddle is level as a starting point, it is important to remember that the top of most saddles themselves are not level. Hence, judge level from mid-saddle to the rear portion where you sit bones rest. Depending on the saddle, this could make it appear that the saddle's nose is pointing slightly up or down.
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A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
Last edited by NOS88; 02-23-10 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Additional thoughts.
#8
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Specialised dealers have a thing called an Assometer. It is a piece of memory foam you sit on and they can tell the width of saddle you should be sitting on. Then there is setting up of the saddle but will come back to you on that next week.
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#10
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Try a Brooks B17. Not everyone loves it, but so many do (including me) that it's worth a try. Get it from Wallbike and they'll give you 6 months to decide or send it back for a refund.
#11
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My local Performance shop let me take saddles and try them out. I bought 3 at one time to try them out and wound up returning them a few weeks later. They were very accommodating about it.
#12
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I have bought three saddles at garage sales and rummage sales at costs of $1, $1, and $20, respectively. I really wanted the thin, sexy looking San Marco saddle to work, but I ended up (get it?) back on the larger Specialized saddle (seen here). My point is that garage sales are a cheap way to try some different saddles.
Also, minor changes in orientation of the saddle can make a huge difference.
Finally, I find that although raising the handlebars may put more weight on the saddle, I think it decreases any pain. While trying to get used the San Marco, I found that if I rode with no hands, that is, very upright, the pain disappeared immediately.
Also, minor changes in orientation of the saddle can make a huge difference.
Finally, I find that although raising the handlebars may put more weight on the saddle, I think it decreases any pain. While trying to get used the San Marco, I found that if I rode with no hands, that is, very upright, the pain disappeared immediately.
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I've been eyeballing this one for myself. I'm 50; weigh 225 and been measured to be a 143. I think this saddle would work for me - still reaseraching and hoping to find one in person to try out before buying.
Forté Classic Saddle
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._20000_1501508
Forté Classic Saddle
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._20000_1501508
#14
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Get FIT
Get your bike shop to do professional bike fit for you. They can get you properly set up and also they have a seat pad that will determine the right size saddle for you. In San Francisco a Specialized certified bike fitting runs about $90. They will probubly sell you a new seat which runs about $100 and up. It helps, it helps a lot improves your comfort and really makes cycling enjoyable.
#15
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Make some minor changes (up/down) in the tilt of your saddle and compare results, then do same thing moving up & back.
Stores that sell Fizik saddles usually have a group of 3 demo saddles (the are orange) that you can try. If you're getting sore in 15-20 miles, you could fairly quickly check out their 3 different models and see if any of those designs work.
As everyone has said - everyone is different when it comes to saddles.
Stores that sell Fizik saddles usually have a group of 3 demo saddles (the are orange) that you can try. If you're getting sore in 15-20 miles, you could fairly quickly check out their 3 different models and see if any of those designs work.
As everyone has said - everyone is different when it comes to saddles.
#16
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I doubt if your shorts are part of the problem.
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I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
#17
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I was having a hard time riding for more than an hour until I switched to a leather Terry Fly saddle. This made a huge difference, as immediately I was able to ride for 3+ hours.
There are some saddles that I can't ride for more than 10 minutes, which I've discovered when taking test rides.
Don't know what to recommend for you, however I know that the saddle makes a huge difference to me.
There are some saddles that I can't ride for more than 10 minutes, which I've discovered when taking test rides.
Don't know what to recommend for you, however I know that the saddle makes a huge difference to me.
#18
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question. is the pain on both sides or just one side. i have probably 20,000 miles or so, but im coming back from a 4 year layoff and i cant seem to get rid of the pain, mine is only on the right side. i keep thinking its some kind of adjustment/saddle dealio, but ive tried fore/aft. five or six diff. saddles cant really ride more than 35 or so without getting pretty damn uncomfortable. im 50, weigh 215 down from about 230 when i got back on the bike. i dont think its the weight. im probably going to get fitted (again)
mr. frustrated.
mr. frustrated.
#19
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I was gonna say Specialized has that thing that measures your sit bones but I see someone already clued you in. I agree a few degrees tilt one way or the other and even moving the saddle side to side depending on whether you dress left or right will make a difference.
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#20
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1) Get a PROFESSIONAL fit (it will cost, but it's worth it)
2) Find a LBS that has a trial period for saddles, and start trying 'em.
2) Find a LBS that has a trial period for saddles, and start trying 'em.
#21
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Saddle fit was a problem for me. I dreaded the pain on a long ride (35 or over) so much I was cutting my rides short.
Then I managed to "stay in the saddle" for a number of rides. Before long I noticed I was not noticing the saddle.
Now I can ride any saddle I have for a very long ride. Makes no real difference.
The key for me was getting in the miles. The saddle actually made very little difference.
Then I managed to "stay in the saddle" for a number of rides. Before long I noticed I was not noticing the saddle.
Now I can ride any saddle I have for a very long ride. Makes no real difference.
The key for me was getting in the miles. The saddle actually made very little difference.
#22
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Get a recumbent!
Your butt will love you, and your neck, and your arms.
Go Bacchetta and go fast.
Your butt will love you, and your neck, and your arms.
Go Bacchetta and go fast.
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Aside from the pro fit idea you can do much of this yourself if you have the time. First. Only make one adjustment at a time. If you start changing multiple issues with fit you may never find the correct position. Once you get close to optimal riding position you will need to do at least 25 miles in that position without making any mid ride adjustments. Just take mental notes of what does not feel right and make the adjustment before the next ride.
Many saddle makers. Specialized, Brontrager etc. are making saddles in different widths. Get your bike store to use the rear end measuring device and then test ride that width saddle. Most racing saddles are only 128 mm in width and most are not all that comfortable. Fizik Aliante is 143 width and much more comfy, to me anyway.
My guess the combo of riding position ie fit and a different saddle will do the trick. The mistake is just buying another saddle is all that needs done to get a comfortable ride. I too have a box of saddles which I thought would solve the problem without the finer points of getting the riding position right.
Many saddle makers. Specialized, Brontrager etc. are making saddles in different widths. Get your bike store to use the rear end measuring device and then test ride that width saddle. Most racing saddles are only 128 mm in width and most are not all that comfortable. Fizik Aliante is 143 width and much more comfy, to me anyway.
My guess the combo of riding position ie fit and a different saddle will do the trick. The mistake is just buying another saddle is all that needs done to get a comfortable ride. I too have a box of saddles which I thought would solve the problem without the finer points of getting the riding position right.
#24
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Pro Fits will cost$$
The saddle has to be of a certain type---One that suits your butt. Most of us have found out that width is important but a firm saddle is better than plenty of padding.
Then there is the position on the bike. Once saddle position has been set up- your sit bones should be sitting on the wide part of the saddle. Then you have to angle the saddle correctly.That "Should" be that you are just being supported underneath with no load bearing. That may mean that you are slipping forward a bit when you ride- but try to ride like that by keeping the sit bones in the correct place. If you still keep slipping forward- Bring the saddle forward and adjust the tilt again- or raise the nose just a fraction.
But I hate to say it- Some of us have Boxes of saddles in the bike shed- to be disposed of when possible. I do keep one saddle as a loaner though- Looks as though it should work but I only have to look at that saddle to remember how uncomfortable it is.--And I did a 100 miler on that saddle so I do know what pain is.
The saddle has to be of a certain type---One that suits your butt. Most of us have found out that width is important but a firm saddle is better than plenty of padding.
Then there is the position on the bike. Once saddle position has been set up- your sit bones should be sitting on the wide part of the saddle. Then you have to angle the saddle correctly.That "Should" be that you are just being supported underneath with no load bearing. That may mean that you are slipping forward a bit when you ride- but try to ride like that by keeping the sit bones in the correct place. If you still keep slipping forward- Bring the saddle forward and adjust the tilt again- or raise the nose just a fraction.
But I hate to say it- Some of us have Boxes of saddles in the bike shed- to be disposed of when possible. I do keep one saddle as a loaner though- Looks as though it should work but I only have to look at that saddle to remember how uncomfortable it is.--And I did a 100 miler on that saddle so I do know what pain is.
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#25
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Thanks all for a ton of good advice. As befits the subject, lots of different thoughts. I think I'll start by making some adjustments and if that doesn't work, get measured by my Specialized shop. Thanks again.