rwortman

After getting back into biking last fall on an inexpensive Al bike and doing a few upgrades to it, I refurbished my old CCM Silver Ghost and took it for a few rides. Now I realize that I am an old fart that has no business dreaming about racebikes and I don't enjoy riding stiff, twitchy handling bicycles as much as I do compliant stable ones. I did some looking about at steel bikes from various companies and came to the realization that the only way to get one equipped just like I want it (within a budget) is to build it up myself. I played with the credit card last night and ordered a Soma Stanyan frame, Shimano R700 compact crankset ( on sale for dirt cheap) and Shimano 105 rest of the drivetrain. I will be using the Ultegra/Open Pro wheels that I bought this winter for my Motobecane and now I will be able to actually get the 25mm tires I put on it for ride smoothness through the brakes without having to open the adjusters every time. By shopping around I will be able to do the whole bike for around $1200 plus my wheels. (Chain Reaction Cycles has great prices on drivetrain stuff and the crankset is on sale at Jensen for under $100 with cups)

BluesDawg

Sounds like a good plan. The Soma Stanyan looks like a nice platform for a good looking and smooth riding bike. Building bikes is almost as fun as riding them. Be sure to post pictures of the build process and the final result. Enjoy.

Retro Grouch 

The problem is that it can be addictive.

Loose Chain

Find yourself an old Centurion Tange 1 Ironman (circa 85ish to about 1990). Nice build quality, made in ACTUAL Japan! They ride very nice, stable, good for long rides and they soak up the road shock especially if you fit them with 25mm tires.

Rescued from a terminal trip to the dump just in time:

cyclinfool

Great plan - please provide pictures all along the way so we know you really did it yourself

Retro Grouch 

What a rare find! That paint definitely does not look like dumpster fodder.

maddmaxx 

building a bike........................yesssssss. It feels even better when you ride your own.

rwortman

Well, as I said above, I already ordered all the stuff. I did consider looking for a nice clean vintage bike but decided I wanted all the modern conveniences along with the old school ride and I thought it would be fun to build one up for me. That is a nice looking machine. Did you repaint it or was some fool throwing it out looking like that?

cyclinfool

I think you did just fine - although you might have been able to find a used frame somewhere, it is likely you would have to have it repainted to have the finish of the new frame. When I did this some 15 years ago I was lucky enough to find a 1 YO steel Simoncini in a shop, Columbus SLX tubing and wide enough rear triangle to support a 9/10 spd drive train and only one nick. You should probably consider getting it treated with frame saver rust prevention to protect your investment.

From your post I know you have been shopping for deals on individual parts - did you consider a build kit? What are you to do for a fork, are you going steel there as well?

rwortman

The Stanyan comes as a frameset with a steel fork. I looked at a few build kits but I think I am doing better by picking and choosing. The frame takes long reach brakes that is not in a normal kit. Jensen had the crankset for $95. I wanted a natural color post and polished Al stem. Chain Reaction's prices on some things are pretty hard to beat and free shipping to anywhere over $250.

Products Ordered:
----------------------------------------------------------
1 Shimano 105 Chain 10 Speed 5600 - Each
ID: 38827
Unit Price: �15.31

1 Tektro R538 Road Brakeset - Silver - Pair F&R
ID: 117941
Unit Price: �34.89

1 Shimano 105 Cassette 10 Speed 5600 - 12-27
ID: 41012
Unit Price: �28.93

1 Transfil Black Snake Gear Cable Set - Pair
ID: 161404
Unit Price: �11.06

1 Transfil Black Snake Brake Cable Set - Pair
ID: 161403
Unit Price: �11.06

2 Shimano 105 Front Derailleur Double 5600 - 28.6 & 31.8mm Band On
ID: 6650
Unit Price: �42.56

1 Shimano 105 STi 10sp 5600 - Pair - LH & RH (152314 & 152313)
ID: 41107
Unit Price: �127.66

Postage: �0.00 (Parcel Force International)

THE TOTAL COST OF THE ORDER INCLUDING POSTAGE IS: �271.47
( $389.21 )

Most mail order places in the states are getting that much for the shifters alone. I already have a brand new 105 RD to put on it.

The Jensen order was this:

SHIMANO R700 COMPACT CRANKSET W/ BB 1 @ $94.99 ea.
172.5mm, 50-34 Tooth, English

EASTON EA70 ERGO ROAD BAR 1 @ $28.00 ea.
Black, 26mm, 40cm

CANE CREEK S-3 HEADSET 1 @ $35.00 ea.
Silver, 1 1/8", Threadless

KALLOY RADIUSSED TOP SEATPOSTS 1 @ $18.70 ea.
Silver, 27.2mm, 350mm

WATER BOTTLE CAGE JENSON LOGO 2 @ $3.20 ea.
Black W/White Logo

FIZIK HANDLEBAR TAPE 1 @ $16.99 ea.
Metal Blue

Grand Total: $211.03


Picking and choosing was kind of fun and I got to save money in areas that matter less (seatpost, handlebars, stem) and spend it where it counts more. Add another $50 for a stem and spacers. $45 for what I paid for the 105 RD, $220 for my BWW Ultegra/OP wheels and you have a complete 105 build kit with Ultegra level cranks and hubs minus pedals and saddle for a smidgen over $900. The 105 kit I just looked at was close to that with no wheels, post, or stem or bars. I think buying it all in one place is more convenient but shopping around for bargains can pay.

Loose Chain

Well, it was just dirty, filthy, wheels out of true, in need of TLC and love. No, that is the original paint.

You did good on the Soma frame, look like a nice frame to give you the soft "steel" ride.

poxy51

I bought one about a year ago, love it, but I paid half again as much and thought it was a good deal at that.

It looks good to go, how does it ride?

CrankyFranky

Sounds like you spec'ed a very tasty build, and also have done some really smart shopping. You're sure to find that nothing beats a well-considered self-built bike. It's been so long since I built up my Stan Pike that it feels like a lifetime ago - and I'm awed by the choices in components that one has now. Looking forward to seeing it built up, maybe a ride report, etc.

CrankyFranky

I'm moving to your neighborhood. Where is this USA?
All kidding aside, what a nicely detailed Ironman. A real beauty!

rideorglide

[QUOTE=BluesDawg;10853134]Building bikes is almost as fun as riding them.[/QUOTE

+1

PS. Photograph the build process, or you'll regret it later.

Read up, and make sure you know which way different sides of bottom brackets, pedals, screw in.
Impatience is your worst enemy, taking the time to do it right and research, following instructions, double checking anything you're not sure about is key. Winter is a good time to build bikes. It took me almost two years to afford and assemble all the parts I needed, but it was well worth it.

Be extra careful with brake adjustments. Some have some spring and things that don't tolerate mal-tinkering.

In woodwork they say measure twice, cut once.
In bike building, I'd say measure three times, cut once.

Don't drink too much single malt scotch while wrapping your handlebars.

rwortman

The only part of this I haven't done before are the external BB and installing the headset cups/cutting the fork. I am going to have an LBS do the headset/fork thing because they have the tools and aren't as likely to muck it up. I have already read Shimano's tech doc's on the BB several times. It is taking close to two weeks for everything to arrive and I am not a patient person. Therefore I have been assembling it in my head for a week now. I will be taking pictures during the build just for fun and to post. I quit drinking 13 years ago so no excuses for me if my handlebar wrap looks wrong.

Wogster

One suggestion, if it's a threadless fork, don't cut it, at least not yet, use spacers to put the bars as high up as possible, use several small and medium spacers rather then one large one. You can then move the spacers from below the bars to above the bars, to raise or lower the bars to where you want them, once your really happy with them, then you can get the steerer cut. It's really easy to cut it shorter, it's impossible to cut it longer. Headsets need special tools to do them right, this is a job I would leave to a decent wrench who has done it before and has the proper tools.