Yet another OM wheel woe.
#1
Time for a change.
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Yet another OM wheel woe.
As any of you that know me- you will realise that I am a great believer in Hand built wheels. Even the couple of Proprietry wheels I have, Shimano Ultegras and Mavic Aksiums, have gone into the wheel builder for him to tweek.
But last year I bought a bike built up by the LBS- a Giant FCR1 set up for road use with drop handlebars. The wheels on it were Giant IOU 333's. Only time I have ever used them were on a charity ride last year when I put them on the OCR. Last week I had a problem on the FCR that is now being used by my son- in- law with a big hole in the rear tyre. No Spare tyres but there was this 333 wheel up on the wall with a new Kenda tyre sitting on it. So quick change over of the cassette and I send him on his way for the daily commute to work. That was Tuesday. Thursday he popped a couple of spokes. I know he is heavier than me but less than 100 miles on a new wheel?
He took it into the LBS and the initial verdict was that the spokes were far too loose. The spokes were intact but the nipples had unscrewed. Now I did check the wheel for true before fitting it and it was perfect. Didn't even think about spoke tension. They retrued and retensioned the wheel--- and got the nipples out from inside the sealed section of the rim so it wouldn't rattle- and no charge. They'll work it on warranty somehow.
But it confirms my view that cheap inhouse hubs laced to No-Name or low spec rims with spokes of an unknown quality are not for me. Only problem is that I have lost my spare set of wheels for emergencies as they are just not up to my standard in any way- Or to my Son-in-law's riding style and weight. (He weighs in at 185lbs)
But last year I bought a bike built up by the LBS- a Giant FCR1 set up for road use with drop handlebars. The wheels on it were Giant IOU 333's. Only time I have ever used them were on a charity ride last year when I put them on the OCR. Last week I had a problem on the FCR that is now being used by my son- in- law with a big hole in the rear tyre. No Spare tyres but there was this 333 wheel up on the wall with a new Kenda tyre sitting on it. So quick change over of the cassette and I send him on his way for the daily commute to work. That was Tuesday. Thursday he popped a couple of spokes. I know he is heavier than me but less than 100 miles on a new wheel?
He took it into the LBS and the initial verdict was that the spokes were far too loose. The spokes were intact but the nipples had unscrewed. Now I did check the wheel for true before fitting it and it was perfect. Didn't even think about spoke tension. They retrued and retensioned the wheel--- and got the nipples out from inside the sealed section of the rim so it wouldn't rattle- and no charge. They'll work it on warranty somehow.
But it confirms my view that cheap inhouse hubs laced to No-Name or low spec rims with spokes of an unknown quality are not for me. Only problem is that I have lost my spare set of wheels for emergencies as they are just not up to my standard in any way- Or to my Son-in-law's riding style and weight. (He weighs in at 185lbs)
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How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
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Popping spokes on my rear wheel was a big problem for me until I started going to White Castles.
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#4
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I finally took the plunge and learned how to build my own wheels, using Sheldon's website. The wheels I built have made it through 3 heavily loaded tours without breaking a spoke, so I'm very pleased. Of course, I had to buy the tools, but that's okay - a good tool is an investment, right?
One invaluable tool is the tensionmeter. I can take a suspect wheel and quickly check for loose or tight spokes. I'm starting to think every bike nut should have a truing stand and a tensionmeter.
One invaluable tool is the tensionmeter. I can take a suspect wheel and quickly check for loose or tight spokes. I'm starting to think every bike nut should have a truing stand and a tensionmeter.
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At one point I had five wheelsets set and ready to go. It all came from my first wheelset which was laced as a 32 hole 3 cross road wheel. I was never happy with the wheel set. I thought about custom wheels but I wondered if getting a wheelset you liked and having a good wheel mechanic to go over them wouldn't work about as well? I am not saying it is the same but when I contacted wheel builders they were using someone elses hubs and someone elses spokes and someone elses rims and someone elses nipples anyway so it "seemed" the only real difference would be the human touch.
Anyway I have had my RS20s gone over by the wheel mechanic/wheel builder in our LBS and they have gone over my Mavics and my Dura-ace wheels. I never use the J hook wheels but have set them aside in case someone needs to borrow a wheel. If I didn't get them back I haven't lost anything I care about. In 3 years I did break a spoke on the RS20s once after hitting a pot hole at speed but Shimano replaced the wheel under warrantee. I did have to have the Mavic front trued once for the same reason. But I am not sure how much better service I would get from a custom wheel than I have form the well serviced manufactured wheels.
As an honest question what would be the advantage?
Anyway I have had my RS20s gone over by the wheel mechanic/wheel builder in our LBS and they have gone over my Mavics and my Dura-ace wheels. I never use the J hook wheels but have set them aside in case someone needs to borrow a wheel. If I didn't get them back I haven't lost anything I care about. In 3 years I did break a spoke on the RS20s once after hitting a pot hole at speed but Shimano replaced the wheel under warrantee. I did have to have the Mavic front trued once for the same reason. But I am not sure how much better service I would get from a custom wheel than I have form the well serviced manufactured wheels.
As an honest question what would be the advantage?
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