Dealing with Toe/Wheel Overlap
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Dealing with Toe/Wheel Overlap
When at the 3 o'clock pedal position, my toe overlaps the front wheel. I've read that this is relatively common, but I see it as a real problem when turning around very slowly. For example, yesterday I rode up a steep hill a bit, and then turned around. I had to be very careful not to have my pedals in the wrong position.
Any tricks to dealing with this, or should I just practice these low speed turns?
Thanks,
Al
Any tricks to dealing with this, or should I just practice these low speed turns?
Thanks,
Al
#2
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When you make a sharp turn, get in the habit of moving the inside pedal to the 12 o'clock position. This will eliminate the risk of pedal strikes or toe overlap.
Unless you're riding fixed gear.
Unless you're riding fixed gear.
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Have the same problem on Boreas and it is not a problem. Tyre hits foot and the foot pedals on and goes past the tyre. Just don't panic and straighten the bars.
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It's also a good idea on tight u-turns to unclip (if you are clipped in) so you don't lose control if you foot does hit the wheel during the turn.
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Be taller so you can ride a bigger bike.
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Practice the turns with the inside foot at the 12 o'clock position as Tunrda Man suggested. It become habit pretty quickly.
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A surgeon or podiatrist could probably help downsize your feet.
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Probably too late in life to try binding.
#10
Squeaky Wheel
After a while it just becomes second nature to position your pedals/feet properly when making sharp turns.
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Is this really an issue for anybody? I have eight bikes, going back to my college Peugeot from the '70s, and five of them have overlap. In 40 years of riding, I've never touched the front wheel once.
It's not necessarily a frame size issue, by the way. My smallest frame is 62cm; the others are 64 or 65.
It's not necessarily a frame size issue, by the way. My smallest frame is 62cm; the others are 64 or 65.
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I find it can be a problem when I'm tired, and I'm preferring to ride my bikes that are long enough not to overlap.
When I was younger I never failed to put my foot at 12:00 and avoid overlap, but these days I don't always remember to do that.
When I was younger I never failed to put my foot at 12:00 and avoid overlap, but these days I don't always remember to do that.
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My toes will hit the tire when making sharp turns on my cyclocross bike especially when noodling around in the back yard or woods on mtb trails. In races it also happens but I don't think it has ever caused a problem other than scuffing the shoes where the contact is made. Wearing sandals would not be advisable.
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Practice one-legged drills...then, when making tight turns, pedal with the inside foot half a revolution, then backpedal half a revolution. Lather, rinse, repeat. iow, keep your outside foot away from the front wheel until the turn is complete.
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I am short and like a good handling bike, so I have toe overlap on all my bikes. I made it a habit to put my heals down and toes up as far as possible when making low speed turns. Solves my problem.
The idea of unclipping is also a good one that I have used on our tandem from time to time. unclip and place pedal in arch of foot and pedal through the turn then clip in. Helps to get good at clipping in.
The idea of unclipping is also a good one that I have used on our tandem from time to time. unclip and place pedal in arch of foot and pedal through the turn then clip in. Helps to get good at clipping in.
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Not short by any means. 6'1" and I definitely have this problem. Caught my self bad the first time out and really since then have had no issues. Guess I just compensated. Yup, pedal all the way up on the side you are turning toward.
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You know, as I think about this, I remember being asked by the folks at Independent Fabrication if toe/wheel overlap was something I absolutely didn't want when they built my bike. (I told them all my other bikes had it; so not to worry about it.) I'm guessing really good frame builders can figure out more than one way to get the desired ride characteristics.
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My Trek owners manual had a big warning about this very thing.
(Yes, I rtfm. Ima geek.)
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Thanks, I'll practice with the correct procedure until it becomes second nature.
I never even realized this was a problem until turning around on the street one day. The wheel was turned to the left, then my pedal got into the 3 o'clock position, and when I went to straighten out the wheel it hit the foot, and stopped. The handlebar torqued out of position, and I fell, but not all the way down.
I never even realized this was a problem until turning around on the street one day. The wheel was turned to the left, then my pedal got into the 3 o'clock position, and when I went to straighten out the wheel it hit the foot, and stopped. The handlebar torqued out of position, and I fell, but not all the way down.
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I never even realized this was a problem until turning around on the street one day. The wheel was turned to the left, then my pedal got into the 3 o'clock position, and when I went to straighten out the wheel it hit the foot, and stopped. The handlebar torqued out of position, and I fell, but not all the way down.
I would put it down to a senior moment rather than a problem. Or I would if I could get back on the chair after falling off laughing.
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#21
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+ with the out side pedal, in relation to the apex of the corner, down, you shift your weight
to that foot, and your C of G moves down a ways.
to that foot, and your C of G moves down a ways.
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Just don't go slow. Ever. Problem solved.
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If you are using cages go to a smaller size - Could also go to 170mm crank - Can it be a problem - YES - I have had two falls when turning on my UNIVEGA - I am OK now but it took some time to get used to turning...
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I'm glad you brought it up as I have had similar issues and wondered if I were the only clumsy cyclist out there.
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My Trek 460 has serious overlap but it's not been a problem.
Do touring bikes with the longer wheelbase have overlap?
Do touring bikes with the longer wheelbase have overlap?